"Keith Bradbury:
I haven't been able to get the curve of the tip to fall in line with the curve of the rest of the piece. What I usually do is sand the tip down until there's a pretty hefty tip rail, then remove material on the baffle. Would a better approach for that be to shape the tip rail from the front edge rather than by cutting down the baffle?"

If the tip of the mouthpiece gets sharp from opening the tip, then it is good to thin the tip rail from the outside to make the end blunt somewhat.  Otherwise, thinning the tip rail from the inside is used more in my experience.

You need to determine if your tip opening reading is a measurement error or if it really is smaller that what the rest of the facing curve needs.  If it is smaller, it will not play well.  

Here is a short video I made on zeroing my tip gauges.

http://youtu.be/KXgF2OXnxhA

Accuracy is not addressed in this video but it is usually not a big issue compared to zeroing and technique.  You can check tip openings with inside calipers too.  If you can get a couple of different gauges to agree on the tip opening within .001" you are probably OK.  

I have a set of gauge blocks to check my gauges for accuracy.  But I think they are overkill.  I use them to help check new gauges I purchase.  


PayPal as "Personal, Friend or Family" to: sabradbury79@...
Checks made out to "Keith W. Bradbury"
Mail to:
Mojo Mouthpiece Work LLC
2925 Crane St.
Vineland, NJ 08361
> On Apr 4, 2016, at 1:14 AM, gregsquared1@gmail.com [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
> Keith Bradbury:
> I haven't been able to get the curve of the tip to fall in line with the curve of the rest of the piece. What I usually do is sand the tip down until there's a pretty hefty tip rail, then remove material on the baffle. Would a better approach for that be to shape the tip rail from the front edge rather than by cutting down the baffle?

*"Good to know. Looks like I'm going to have to dive into the chamber"*

Not the chamber, the baffle. The baffle work is as important as the facing
if not even more. I routinely spend 2 times more time on the baffle than
the facing. You can fish for overtones there, make it free blowing or
resistant, basically every aspect of the mouthpiece making is available to
adjust with a touch.

On Mon, Apr 4, 2016 at 3:05 PM, Keith Bradbury kwbradbury@yahoo.com
[MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

>
>
> "Keith Bradbury:
> I haven't been able to get the curve of the tip to fall in line with the
> curve of the rest of the piece. What I usually do is sand the tip down
> until there's a pretty hefty tip rail, then remove material on the baffle.
> Would a better approach for that be to shape the tip rail from the front
> edge rather than by cutting down the baffle?"
>
> If the tip of the mouthpiece gets sharp from opening the tip, then it is
> good to thin the tip rail from the outside to make the end blunt somewhat.
> Otherwise, thinning the tip rail from the inside is used more in my
> experience.
>
> You need to determine if your tip opening reading is a measurement error
> or if it really is smaller that what the rest of the facing curve needs.
> If it is smaller, it will not play well.
>
> Here is a short video I made on zeroing my tip gauges.
>
> http://youtu.be/KXgF2OXnxhA
>
> Accuracy is not addressed in this video but it is usually not a big issue
> compared to zeroing and technique.  You can check tip openings with inside
> calipers too.  If you can get a couple of different gauges to agree on the
> tip opening within .001" you are probably OK.
>
> I have a set of gauge blocks to check my gauges for accuracy.  But I think
> they are overkill.  I use them to help check new gauges I purchase.
>
>
> PayPal as "Personal, Friend or Family" to: sabradbury79@...
> Checks made out to "Keith W. Bradbury"
> Mail to:
> Mojo Mouthpiece Work LLC
> 2925 Crane St.
> Vineland, NJ 08361
> On Apr 4, 2016, at 1:14 AM, gregsquared1@... [MouthpieceWork] <
> MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> Keith Bradbury:
> I haven't been able to get the curve of the tip to fall in line with the
> curve of the rest of the piece. What I usually do is sand the tip down
> until there's a pretty hefty tip rail, then remove material on the baffle.
> Would a better approach for that be to shape the tip rail from the front
> edge rather than by cutting down the baffle?
>
> 
>



-- 
Sakshama

www. sakshamamouthpieces.com

I spend way more time on the facing than the baffle.  Facing work is tedious.  Measure, adjust, repeat.  Takes 1-3 hours.  

My clients usually like the sound of a mouthpiece sent to me but not the response.  But some want sound changes or both.   Some baffles are too high near the tip to respond well.  

> On Apr 4, 2016, at 9:56 AM, Sakshama Koloski sakshama1@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
> "Good to know. Looks like I'm going to have to dive into the chamber"
> 
> Not the chamber, the baffle. The baffle work is as important as the facing if not even more. I routinely spend 2 times more time on the baffle than the facing. You can fish for overtones there, make it free blowing or resistant, basically every aspect of the mouthpiece making is available to adjust with a touch. 
> 
>> On Mon, Apr 4, 2016 at 3:05 PM, Keith Bradbury kwbradbury@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>>  
>> 
>> "Keith Bradbury:
>> I haven't been able to get the curve of the tip to fall in line with the curve of the rest of the piece. What I usually do is sand the tip down until there's a pretty hefty tip rail, then remove material on the baffle. Would a better approach for that be to shape the tip rail from the front edge rather than by cutting down the baffle?"
>> 
>> If the tip of the mouthpiece gets sharp from opening the tip, then it is good to thin the tip rail from the outside to make the end blunt somewhat.  Otherwise, thinning the tip rail from the inside is used more in my experience.
>> 
>> You need to determine if your tip opening reading is a measurement error or if it really is smaller that what the rest of the facing curve needs.  If it is smaller, it will not play well.  
>> 
>> Here is a short video I made on zeroing my tip gauges.
>> 
>> http://youtu.be/KXgF2OXnxhA
>> 
>> Accuracy is not addressed in this video but it is usually not a big issue compared to zeroing and technique.  You can check tip openings with inside calipers too.  If you can get a couple of different gauges to agree on the tip opening within .001" you are probably OK.  
>> 
>> I have a set of gauge blocks to check my gauges for accuracy.  But I think they are overkill.  I use them to help check new gauges I purchase.  
>> 
>> 
>> PayPal as "Personal, Friend or Family" to: sabradbury79@...
>> Checks made out to "Keith W. Bradbury"
>> Mail to:
>> Mojo Mouthpiece Work LLC
>> 2925 Crane St.
>> Vineland, NJ 08361
>> On Apr 4, 2016, at 1:14 AM, gregsquared1@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> Keith Bradbury:
>>> I haven't been able to get the curve of the tip to fall in line with the curve of the rest of the piece. What I usually do is sand the tip down until there's a pretty hefty tip rail, then remove material on the baffle. Would a better approach for that be to shape the tip rail from the front edge rather than by cutting down the baffle?
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Sakshama
> 
> www. sakshamamouthpieces.com
> 
> 

Could you elaborate on your experience with making a piece more free blowing using baffle adjustment. I found this area a make or break for some Meyer alto pieces I had to redo recently. 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Sakshama Koloski sakshama1@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 6:56:47 AM 
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Improving tone, resonance, articulation/response 






" Good to know. Looks like I'm going to have to dive into the chamber" 


Not the chamber, the baffle. The baffle work is as important as the facing if not even more. I routinely spend 2 times more time on the baffle than the facing. You can fish for overtones there, make it free blowing or resistant, basically every aspect of the mouthpiece making is available to adjust with a touch. 


On Mon, Apr 4, 2016 at 3:05 PM, Keith Bradbury kwbradbury@... [MouthpieceWork] < MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com > wrote: 








" Keith Bradbury: I haven't been able to get the curve of the tip to fall in line with the curve of the rest of the piece. What I usually do is sand the tip down until there's a pretty hefty tip rail, then remove material on the baffle. Would a better approach for that be to shape the tip rail from the front edge rather than by cutting down the baffle?" 


If the tip of the mouthpiece gets sharp from opening the tip, then it is good to thin the tip rail from the outside to make the end blunt somewhat. Otherwise, thinning the tip rail from the inside is used more in my experience. 


You need to determine if your tip opening reading is a measurement error or if it really is smaller that what the rest of the facing curve needs. If it is smaller, it will not play well. 



Here is a short video I made on zeroing my tip gauges. 


http://youtu.be/KXgF2OXnxhA 


Accuracy is not addressed in this video but it is usually not a big issue compared to zeroing and technique. You can check tip openings with inside calipers too. If you can get a couple of different gauges to agree on the tip opening within .001" you are probably OK. 


I have a set of gauge blocks to check my gauges for accuracy. But I think they are overkill. I use them to help check new gauges I purchase. 



PayPal as "Personal, Friend or Family" to: sabradbury79@... 
Checks made out to "Keith W. Bradbury" 
Mail to: 
Mojo Mouthpiece Work LLC 
2925 Crane St. 
Vineland, NJ 08361 On Apr 4, 2016, at 1:14 AM, gregsquared1@... [MouthpieceWork] < MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com > wrote: 


<blockquote>
Keith Bradbury: 
I haven't been able to get the curve of the tip to fall in line with the curve of the rest of the piece. What I usually do is sand the tip down until there's a pretty hefty tip rail, then remove material on the baffle. Would a better approach for that be to shape the tip rail from the front edge rather than by cutting down the baffle? 




</blockquote>




-- 

Sakshama 

www. sakshamamouthpieces.com 



 

 

> "The baffle work is as important as the facing if not even more. I
routinely spend 2 times more time on the baffle than the facing. You can
fish for overtones there, make it free blowing or resistant, basically
every aspect of the mouthpiece making is available to adjust with a
touch."

I'd like to see a depth gauge that can measure the height of
the baffle at fixed distances from the tip rail, in order to have some
semi-reproducible targets for the slope and curvature of the baffle in
that region. That might make the fishing a little more productive,
timewise. 

Barry Levine 

>> Not the chamber, the baffle. The baffle
work is as important as the facing if not even more. I routinely spend 2
times more time on the baffle than the facing. You can fish for
overtones there, make it free blowing or resistant, basically every
aspect of the mouthpiece making is available to adjust with a touch. 
>>

>> On Mon, Apr 4, 2016 at 3:05 PM, Keith Bradbury kwbradbury@...
[5] [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com [6]> wrote:
>> 
>>>
"Keith Bradbury: I haven't been able to get the curve of the tip to fall
in line with the curve of the rest of the piece. What I usually do is
sand the tip down until there's a pretty hefty tip rail, then remove
material on the baffle. Would a better approach for that be to shape the
tip rail from the front edge rather than by cutting down the baffle?"

>>> 
>>> If the tip of the mouthpiece gets sharp from opening the tip,
then it is good to thin the tip rail from the outside to make the end
blunt somewhat. Otherwise, thinning the tip rail from the inside is used
more in my experience. 
>>> 
>>> You need to determine if your tip
opening reading is a measurement error or if it really is smaller that
what the rest of the facing curve needs. If it is smaller, it will not
play well. 
>>> 
>>> Here is a short video I made on zeroing my tip
gauges. 
>>> 
>>> http://youtu.be/KXgF2OXnxhA [1] 
>>> 
>>> Accuracy is
not addressed in this video but it is usually not a big issue compared
to zeroing and technique. You can check tip openings with inside
calipers too. If you can get a couple of different gauges to agree on
the tip opening within .001" you are probably OK. 
>>> 
>>> I have a set
of gauge blocks to check my gauges for accuracy. But I think they are
overkill. I use them to help check new gauges I purchase. 
>>> 
>>>
PayPal as "Personal, Friend or Family" to: sabradbury79@... [2]

>>> Checks made out to "Keith W. Bradbury" 
>>> Mail to: 
>>> Mojo
Mouthpiece Work LLC 
>>> 2925 Crane St. 
>>> Vineland, NJ 08361 On Apr
4, 2016, at 1:14 AM, gregsquared1@... [3] [MouthpieceWork]
<MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com [4]> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Keith
Bradbury:
>>>> I haven't been able to get the curve of the tip to fall
in line with the curve of the rest of the piece. What I usually do is
sand the tip down until there's a pretty hefty tip rail, then remove
material on the baffle. Would a better approach for that be to shape the
tip rail from the front edge rather than by cutting down the baffle?
>>

>> -- 
>> 
>> Sakshama
>> 
>> www. sakshamamouthpieces.com [7]
> 
>





Links:
------
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[2]
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Very interesting discussion ,  yes , the baffle is a a very sensitive area ,
  like to hear more on how it' shape , length and angle influences different harmonics 
 and registers of a sax as well as the resistance-freeblowing ratio?
 

 There is also a mystery of a so called " good geometrically perfect plotted facing curve" vs "Custome or Vintage" curves that don't fit with either of above  : 
 One curve can be a perfectly radial or a elliptical ,
 but not respond  and sound as well as some "vintage Link " curve that doesn't fit into radial/elliptical ,
 How were those curves plotted before the spreadsheet  and computers?
 We're mouthpiece makers using same Radial/Elliptical formulas Or were they experimenting on different curves just by trial and error ?

Good way to start  thinking of the baffles is by the angle they meet the
tip rail.
If they meet the tip rail in a straight flat manner the sound will be
bright, very well articulating and free blowing. The opposite is when there
is curvy entrance- rich dark, resistant and not articulating well. I try to
balance those attributes to have elements of both, suppressing undesirable
ones. For illustration, If you are carving nice tip rail you are doing that
by taking off the material from the baffle. That motion also makes the
second entrance I explained and have immediate impact how the baffle
responds. I get terrified when I see people use buffing wheels on the
baffle. Maybe works well for them in their universe, but to me it is
washing down the drain several hours of work.
Every baffle style is a story of its own with its own set of rules, what
works what doesn't. A lot of this knowledge is intuitive and myself haven't
thought of it putting it to words. I'm just going there plow the baffle
looking for the tone I have in my mind until I get the smile of
satisfaction while playing it. If in few days I'm happy with the sound the
same way like after the first day I consider it finished.

On Mon, Apr 4, 2016 at 6:05 PM, jazzroom@... [MouthpieceWork] <
MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

>
>
> Very interesting discussion ,
> yes , the baffle is a a very sensitive area ,
>  like to hear more on how it' shape , length and angle influences
> different harmonics
> and registers of a sax as well as the resistance-freeblowing ratio?
>
> There is also a mystery of a so called " good geometrically perfect
> plotted facing curve" vs "Custome or Vintage" curves that don't fit with
> either of above  :
> One curve can be a perfectly radial or a elliptical ,
> but not respond  and sound as well as some "vintage Link " curve that
> doesn't fit into radial/elliptical ,
> How were those curves plotted before the spreadsheet  and computers?
> We're mouthpiece makers using same Radial/Elliptical formulas Or were they
> experimenting on different curves just by trial and error ?
>
> 
>



-- 
Sakshama

www. sakshamamouthpieces.com

A depth gauge with a pointed probe end can measure baffle profiles.   I show how this can be done in some of my videos.  

Check out about 7:40 into this video.

http://youtu.be/G00x_PYHIvY

PayPal as "Personal, Friend or Family" to: sabradbury79@...
Checks made out to "Keith W. Bradbury"
Mail to:
Mojo Mouthpiece Work LLC
2925 Crane St.
Vineland, NJ 08361
> On Apr 4, 2016, at 11:34 AM, barrylevine barrylevine@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
> [Attachment(s) from barrylevine included below]
>> 
>> "The baffle work is as important as the facing if not even more. I routinely spend 2 times more time on the baffle than the facing. You can fish for overtones there, make it free blowing or resistant, basically every aspect of the mouthpiece making is available to adjust with a touch."
>> 
> I'd like to see a depth gauge that can measure the height of the baffle at fixed distances from the tip rail, in order to have some semi-reproducible targets for the slope and curvature of the baffle in that region. That might make the fishing a little more productive, timewise.  
> 
> Barry Levine
> 
>  
> 
>>>  
>>> Not the chamber, the baffle. The baffle work is as important as the facing if not even more. I routinely spend 2 times more time on the baffle than the facing. You can fish for overtones there, make it free blowing or resistant, basically every aspect of the mouthpiece making is available to adjust with a touch. 
>>> 
>>>> On Mon, Apr 4, 2016 at 3:05 PM, Keith Bradbury kwbradbury@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>>>>  
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> "Keith Bradbury:
>>>> I haven't been able to get the curve of the tip to fall in line with the curve of the rest of the piece. What I usually do is sand the tip down until there's a pretty hefty tip rail, then remove material on the baffle. Would a better approach for that be to shape the tip rail from the front edge rather than by cutting down the baffle?"
>>>>  
>>>> If the tip of the mouthpiece gets sharp from opening the tip, then it is good to thin the tip rail from the outside to make the end blunt somewhat.  Otherwise, thinning the tip rail from the inside is used more in my experience.
>>>>  
>>>> You need to determine if your tip opening reading is a measurement error or if it really is smaller that what the rest of the facing curve needs.  If it is smaller, it will not play well.  
>>>>  
>>>> Here is a short video I made on zeroing my tip gauges.
>>>>  
>>>> http://youtu.be/KXgF2OXnxhA
>>>>  
>>>> Accuracy is not addressed in this video but it is usually not a big issue compared to zeroing and technique.  You can check tip openings with inside calipers too.  If you can get a couple of different gauges to agree on the tip opening within .001" you are probably OK.  
>>>>  
>>>> I have a set of gauge blocks to check my gauges for accuracy.  But I think they are overkill.  I use them to help check new gauges I purchase.  
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> PayPal as "Personal, Friend or Family" to: sabradbury79@...
>>>> Checks made out to "Keith W. Bradbury"
>>>> Mail to:
>>>> Mojo Mouthpiece Work LLC
>>>> 2925 Crane St.
>>>> Vineland, NJ 08361
>>>> On Apr 4, 2016, at 1:14 AM, gregsquared1@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Keith Bradbury:
>>>>> I haven't been able to get the curve of the tip to fall in line with the curve of the rest of the piece. What I usually do is sand the tip down until there's a pretty hefty tip rail, then remove material on the baffle. Would a better approach for that be to shape the tip rail from the front edge rather than by cutting down the baffle?
>>> 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> -- 
>>> Sakshama
>>> 
>>> www. sakshamamouthpieces.com
>  
> 
>  
> 

The baffle profile influences when/how quickly the reed closes during each cycle (Bernoulli force).  Baffle too high = reed snaps shut early = bright sound + resistance/backs up.  Baffle too low = reed closes slowly = dull sound - you have to blow too hard to get desired presence = resistance.  So, resistance either way.  There is a narrow window where the Bernoulli force compliments your blowing pressure sweet spot, and when you find it, you have Mouthpiece Magic.  The overall baffle and reed channel shape are factors, so there is no one universal baffle height that will get you there.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, Apr 4, 2016 at 10:20 AM, Keith Bradbury kwbradbury@... [MouthpieceWork]<MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:       


A depth gauge with a pointed probe end can measure baffle profiles.   I show how this can be done in some of my videos.  
Check out about 7:40 into this video.
http://youtu.be/G00x_PYHIvY

PayPal as "Personal, Friend or Family" to: sabradbury79@... made out to "Keith W. Bradbury"Mail to:Mojo Mouthpiece Work LLC2925 Crane St.Vineland, NJ 08361On Apr 4, 2016, at 11:34 AM, barrylevine barrylevine@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


    




"The baffle work is as important as the facing if not even more. I routinely spend 2 times more time on the baffle than the facing. You can fish for overtones there, make it free blowing or resistant, basically every aspect of the mouthpiece making is available to adjust with a touch."





I'd like to see a depth gauge that can measure the height of the baffle at fixed distances from the tip rail, in order to have some semi-reproducible targets for the slope and curvature of the baffle in that region. That might make the fishing a little more productive, timewise.  

Barry Levine

 


 Not the chamber, the baffle. The baffle work is as important as the facing if not even more. I routinely spend 2 times more time on the baffle than the facing. You can fish for overtones there, make it free blowing or resistant, basically every aspect of the mouthpiece making is available to adjust with a touch. 
On Mon, Apr 4, 2016 at 3:05 PM, Keith Bradbury kwbradbury@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 
 
"Keith Bradbury:I haven't been able to get the curve of the tip to fall in line with the curve of the rest of the piece. What I usually do is sand the tip down until there's a pretty hefty tip rail, then remove material on the baffle. Would a better approach for that be to shape the tip rail from the front edge rather than by cutting down the baffle?" If the tip of the mouthpiece gets sharp from opening the tip, then it is good to thin the tip rail from the outside to make the end blunt somewhat.  Otherwise, thinning the tip rail from the inside is used more in my experience. You need to determine if your tip opening reading is a measurement error or if it really is smaller that what the rest of the facing curve needs.  If it is smaller, it will not play well.   Here is a short video I made on zeroing my tip gauges. http://youtu.be/KXgF2OXnxhA Accuracy is not addressed in this video but it is usually not a big issue compared to zeroing and technique.  You can check tip openings with inside calipers too.  If you can get a couple of different gauges to agree on the tip opening within .001" you are probably OK.   I have a set of gauge blocks to check my gauges for accuracy.  But I think they are overkill.  I use them to help check new gauges I purchase.  


PayPal as "Personal, Friend or Family" to: sabradbury79@yahoo.comChecks made out to "Keith W. Bradbury"Mail to:Mojo Mouthpiece Work LLC2925 Crane St.Vineland, NJ 08361On Apr 4, 2016, at 1:14 AM, gregsquared1@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Keith Bradbury:
I haven't been able to get the curve of the tip to fall in line with the curve of the rest of the piece. What I usually do is sand the tip down until there's a pretty hefty tip rail, then remove material on the baffle. Would a better approach for that be to shape the tip rail from the front edge rather than by cutting down the baffle?

 
 


 -- 
Sakshama

www. sakshamamouthpieces.com


 



 
 

  
    

Yes. I find that if the angle of a somewhat flat baffle is too shallow 
where it meets the tip rail, the tone may be too bright. Upper register 
and altissimo sing easily, but middle and lower registers are thin. For 
example, I've been working on a Chinese metal mouthpiece with this 
problem, and as I slope the baffle a bit further away (which means lots 
of filing) the tone has gotten rounder.
    Maybe this mouthpiece would be more suitable for cane, but as I play 
synthetic reeds that are rather bright, this combination of mouthpiece 
and reed doesn't work for me; and that's another consideration to take 
into account.


On 4/4/2016 1:14 PM, Sakshama Koloski sakshama1@... 
[MouthpieceWork] wrote:
> Good way to start  thinking of the baffles is by the angle they meet 
> the tip rail.
> If they meet the tip rail in a straight flat manner the sound will be 
> bright, very well articulating and free blowing. The opposite is when 
> there is curvy entrance- rich dark, resistant and not articulating 
> well. I try to balance those attributes to have elements of both, 
> suppressing undesirable ones. For illustration, If you are carving 
> nice tip rail you are doing that by taking off the material from the 
> baffle. That motion also makes the second entrance I explained and 
> have immediate impact how the baffle responds. I get terrified when I 
> see people use buffing wheels on the baffle. Maybe works well for them 
> in their universe, but to me it is washing down the drain several 
> hours of work.
> Every baffle style is a story of its own with its own set of rules, 
> what works what doesn't. A lot of this knowledge is intuitive and 
> myself haven't thought of it putting it to words. I'm just going there 
> plow the baffle looking for the tone I have in my mind until I get the 
> smile of satisfaction while playing it. If in few days I'm happy with 
> the sound the same way like after the first day I consider it finished.
>
> On Mon, Apr 4, 2016 at 6:05 PM, jazzroom@... 
> <mailto:jazzroom@...> [MouthpieceWork] 
> <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>> wrote:

-- 
Barry Levine
10 Hillshire Ln
Norwood MA 02062-3009
781-769-5931

Thanks for your response.

I see that you're measuring the depth, and that you've gotten profiles 
of the baffles

But I don't see how you're getting fixed distances from the bottom of 
the table, as you say. Did you create some marks on the baffle?

And I'd think that the distance from the tip that would be more accurate 
than measuring from the bottom of the table, which could vary among 
production runs.

If the depth gauge had an adjustable arm that acted as a variable 
distance stop from the tip, that would work on a flat baffle. If the 
baffle had an arc across its width, the center line would need to be marked.

I don't see (from the clip)On 4/4/2016 1:20 PM, Keith Bradbury 
kwbradbury@... [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
>
> A depth gauge with a pointed probe end can measure baffle profiles.   
> I show how this can be done in some of my videos.
>
> Check out about 7:40 into this video.
>
> http://youtu.be/G00x_PYHIvY
>
> PayPal as "Personal, Friend or Family" to: sabradbury79@... 
> <mailto:sabradbury79@...>
> Checks made out to "Keith W. Bradbury"
> Mail to:
> Mojo Mouthpiece Work LLC
> 2925 Crane St.
> Vineland, NJ 08361
> On Apr 4, 2016, at 11:34 AM, barrylevine barrylevine@... 
> <mailto:barrylevine@...> [MouthpieceWork] 
> <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>> wrote:
>
>>>
>>> "The baffle work is as important as the facing if not even more. 
>>> I routinely spend 2 times more time on the baffle than the facing. 
>>> You can fish for overtones there, make it free blowing or resistant, 
>>> basically every aspect of the mouthpiece making is available to 
>>> adjust with a touch."
>>>
>>>
>> I'd like to see a depth gauge that can measure the height of the 
>> baffle at fixed distances from the tip rail, in order to have some 
>> semi-reproducible targets for the slope and curvature of the baffle 
>> in that region. That might make the fishing a little more productive, 
>> timewise.
>>
>> Barry Levine
>>
>>>> Not the chamber, the baffle. The baffle work is as important as the 
>>>> facing if not even more. I routinely spend 2 times more time on the 
>>>> baffle than the facing. You can fish for overtones there, make it 
>>>> free blowing or resistant, basically every aspect of the mouthpiece 
>>>> making is available to adjust with a touch.
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Apr 4, 2016 at 3:05 PM, Keith Bradbury kwbradbury@... 
>>>> <mailto:kwbradbury@...> [MouthpieceWork] 
>>>> <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
>>>> <mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>     "Keith Bradbury:
>>>>     I haven't been able to get the curve of the tip to fall in line
>>>>     with the curve of the rest of the piece. What I usually do is
>>>>     sand the tip down until there's a pretty hefty tip rail, then
>>>>     remove material on the baffle. Would a better approach for that
>>>>     be to shape the tip rail from the front edge rather than by
>>>>     cutting down the baffle?"
>>>>     If the tip of the mouthpiece gets sharp from opening the tip,
>>>>     then it is good to thin the tip rail from the outside to make
>>>>     the end blunt somewhat. Otherwise, thinning the tip rail from
>>>>     the inside is used more in my experience.
>>>>     You need to determine if your tip opening reading is a
>>>>     measurement error or if it really is smaller that what the rest
>>>>     of the facing curve needs.  If it is smaller, it will not play
>>>>     well.
>>>>     Here is a short video I made on zeroing my tip gauges.
>>>>     http://youtu.be/KXgF2OXnxhA
>>>>     Accuracy is not addressed in this video but it is usually not a
>>>>     big issue compared to zeroing and technique.  You can check tip
>>>>     openings with inside calipers too.  If you can get a couple of
>>>>     different gauges to agree on the tip opening within .001" you
>>>>     are probably OK.
>>>>     I have a set of gauge blocks to check my gauges for accuracy. 
>>>>     But I think they are overkill.  I use them to help check new
>>>>     gauges I purchase.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>     PayPal as "Personal, Friend or Family" to:
>>>>     sabradbury79@... <mailto:sabradbury79@...>
>>>>     Checks made out to "Keith W. Bradbury"
>>>>     Mail to:
>>>>     Mojo Mouthpiece Work LLC
>>>>     2925 Crane St.
>>>>     Vineland, NJ 08361
>>>>     On Apr 4, 2016, at 1:14 AM, gregsquared1@...
>>>>     <mailto:gregsquared1@...> [MouthpieceWork]
>>>>     <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
>>>>     <mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>     Keith Bradbury:
>>>>>     I haven't been able to get the curve of the tip to fall in
>>>>>     line with the curve of the rest of the piece. What I usually
>>>>>     do is sand the tip down until there's a pretty hefty tip rail,
>>>>>     then remove material on the baffle. Would a better approach
>>>>>     for that be to shape the tip rail from the front edge rather
>>>>>     than by cutting down the baffle?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -- 
>>>> Sakshama
>>>>
>>>> www. sakshamamouthpieces.com <http://sakshamamouthpieces.com>
>>>>
> 


-- 
Barry Levine
10 Hillshire Ln
Norwood MA 02062-3009
781-769-5931

To measure baffle profiles, I have a scale of notches marked along the side of my tip gauge.   The scale zero is about 1.5" away from the gauge probe.  I place the pointed tip probe on the tip of the mouthpiece and then I place a white mark on the side of the mouthpiece where the zero point on the scale is.  Then I slide the notches in the gauge one by one to the white mark and take depth readings to the baffle.  I take readings at 3, 7, 12, 18, and 25 mm from the tip. 
 

 I show this in my videos somewhere.  But I have over 50 videos so I have trouble finding a particular clip sometimes.

Dudes,
This is all super helpful and totally inspiring. Thanks a bunch for sharing your knowledge. I will try some of these things and let you know the results. Thanks again.

G2

Got it, thanks.

On 4/5/2016 7:26 AM, kwbradbury@... [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
> To measure baffle profiles, I have a scale of notches marked along the 
> side of my tip gauge.   The scale zero is about 1.5" away from the 
> gauge probe.  I place the pointed tip probe on the tip of the 
> mouthpiece and then I place a white mark on the side of the mouthpiece 
> where the zero point on the scale is.  Then I slide the notches in the 
> gauge one by one to the white mark and take depth readings to the 
> baffle.  I take readings at 3, 7, 12, 18, and 25 mm from the tip.
>
> I show this in my videos somewhere.  But I have over 50 videos so I 
> have trouble finding a particular clip sometimes.
> 


-- 
Barry Levine
10 Hillshire Ln
Norwood MA 02062-3009
781-769-5931