Hi All,
 Long time stalker, first time poster here.
 Firstly, thank you for all the information sharing here-I have learnt a lot.
 I teach at a music school where we have a rather full junk drawer of cheap mouthpieces, and I have been availing of this opportunity to learn some refacing skills.
 Yesterday I was working on a plastic Chinese tenor piece, and using one of the excel files posted to the files section, of an Otto Link facing curve, as a guide.
 As I approached the intended curve I got to a point where I was within one or two tenths of a millimetre of the plotted curve, and I play tested it-liked the results-and decided that was close enough.
 So, my question is: when you professional guys do this do you always hit your plotted curves 100% on the money, or is there a margin within which you will play test and decide it is done if it is close enough to the plan and the results are pleasing? If so, what would you say is your margin within which you will call such a job done?
 Thanks again,
 Daniel

I don't think I can read better than +/- .1mm on a glass gauge in the first place. But yeah, when it gets pretty close I'll play test and adjust according to that. It's done when it plays right.

This html message parsed with html2text ---------------------------A mouthpiece is worked here until it is exactly on target with the plotted
curve. A high magnification headset lens is used to be able to read the
smaller increments on the glass. The more stations that are not exact on the
curve, the more the response may suffer. It is also important to test the
accuracy of your feeler gauges, glass and tip gauge. \\---
[Mouthpieck@yahoogroups.com](mailto:Mouthpieck@yahoogroups.com) wrote: From:
"frymorgan@yahoo.com [MouthpieceWork]"  To:  Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: How
close is close enough? Date: 06 Mar 2016 05:50:36 -0800 I don't think I can
read better than +/- .1mm on a glass gauge in the first place. But yeah, when
it gets pretty close I'll play test and adjust according to that. It's done
when it plays right. * * * Netscape. Just the Net You Need.

Over time you develop a feel for this based on your own ability and taste.  Starting out I remember having the same question.

Sometimes that last adjustment makes a significant difference.  Sometimes it does not. Sometimes you overshoot removing a bump and now you have a low spot to deal with.

When the repeatability of your measurements vary as much as the adjustments you are trying to make, you need to stop correcting based on your measurements.

Even though modern refacers use more feeler gauges, there are still spots between the gauges that can be off a bit.  I look at light reflecting off the side rails to see if there is an irregularity that my gauges do not pick up.  A smooth curve often plays better than one that just hits the target numbers well.

Personally, a I rarely play test a mouthpiece anymore unless it is for me.  I hit the target numbers and rely on my client's feedback.  My quality is there so a play test is more of a check on the tip opening, facing length and resistance curve choices as well as the baffle shape.  My client often wants something different than I would like.

> On Mar 6, 2016, at 7:14 AM, hrothrekrsson@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Long time stalker, first time poster here.
> 
> Firstly, thank you for all the information sharing here-I have learnt a lot.
> 
> I teach at a music school where we have a rather full junk drawer of cheap mouthpieces, and I have been availing of this opportunity to learn some refacing skills.
> 
> Yesterday I was working on a plastic Chinese tenor piece, and using one of the excel files posted to the files section, of an Otto Link facing curve, as a guide.
> 
> As I approached the intended curve I got to a point where I was within one or two tenths of a millimetre of the plotted curve, and I play tested it-liked the results-and decided that was close enough.
> 
> So, my question is: when you professional guys do this do you always hit your plotted curves 100% on the money, or is there a margin within which you will play test and decide it is done if it is close enough to the plan and the results are pleasing? If so, what would you say is your margin within which you will call such a job done?
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Daniel
> 
> 

Keith, I have a hard rubber berg larsen that is currently an 80 over 2 m. I'd like to turn it into a 130 over 0 m. If it has to remain a 3 I can live with that. I played a duckbill berg like that today that I liked. The gentleman was cryptic on price to reface so I thought I might give you a try. Thanks, Ted. 

    On Monday, March 7, 2016 7:47 AM, "Keith Bradbury kwbradbury@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

     Over time you develop a feel for this based on your own ability and taste.  Starting out I remember having the same question.
Sometimes that last adjustment makes a significant difference.  Sometimes it does not. Sometimes you overshoot removing a bump and now you have a low spot to deal with.
When the repeatability of your measurements vary as much as the adjustments you are trying to make, you need to stop correcting based on your measurements.
Even though modern refacers use more feeler gauges, there are still spots between the gauges that can be off a bit.  I look at light reflecting off the side rails to see if there is an irregularity that my gauges do not pick up.  A smooth curve often plays better than one that just hits the target numbers well.
Personally, a I rarely play test a mouthpiece anymore unless it is for me.  I hit the target numbers and rely on my client's feedback.  My quality is there so a play test is more of a check on the tip opening, facing length and resistance curve choices as well as the baffle shape.  My client often wants something different than I would like.
On Mar 6, 2016, at 7:14 AM, hrothrekrsson@gmail.com [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


    Hi All,Long time stalker, first time poster here.Firstly, thank you for all the information sharing here-I have learnt a lot.I teach at a music school where we have a rather full junk drawer of cheap mouthpieces, and I have been availing of this opportunity to learn some refacing skills.Yesterday I was working on a plastic Chinese tenor piece, and using one of the excel files posted to the files section, of an Otto Link facing curve, as a guide.As I approached the intended curve I got to a point where I was within one or two tenths of a millimetre of the plotted curve, and I play tested it-liked the results-and decided that was close enough.So, my question is: when you professional guys do this do you always hit your plotted curves 100% on the money, or is there a margin within which you will play test and decide it is done if it is close enough to the plan and the results are pleasing? If so, what would you say is your margin within which you will call such a job done?Thanks again,Daniel  
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This is a public forum.   Contact me at mojomouthpiecework@... for personal refacing work requests.

But going from 80 to 130 is a bit extreme of a change.

> On Mar 9, 2016, at 6:34 PM, Ted Kutzer jazzmanted@...m [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
> Keith, I have a hard rubber berg larsen that is currently an 80 over 2 m. I'd like to turn it into a 130 over 0 m. If it has to remain a 3 I can live with that. I played a duckbill berg like that today that I liked. The gentleman was cryptic on price to reface so I thought I might give you a try. Thanks, Ted.
> 
> 
> On Monday, March 7, 2016 7:47 AM, "Keith Bradbury kwbradbury@yahoo.com [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>  
> Over time you develop a feel for this based on your own ability and taste.  Starting out I remember having the same question.
> 
> Sometimes that last adjustment makes a significant difference.  Sometimes it does not. Sometimes you overshoot removing a bump and now you have a low spot to deal with.
> 
> When the repeatability of your measurements vary as much as the adjustments you are trying to make, you need to stop correcting based on your measurements.
> 
> Even though modern refacers use more feeler gauges, there are still spots between the gauges that can be off a bit.  I look at light reflecting off the side rails to see if there is an irregularity that my gauges do not pick up.  A smooth curve often plays better than one that just hits the target numbers well.
> 
> Personally, a I rarely play test a mouthpiece anymore unless it is for me.  I hit the target numbers and rely on my client's feedback.  My quality is there so a play test is more of a check on the tip opening, facing length and resistance curve choices as well as the baffle shape.  My client often wants something different than I would like.
> 
>> On Mar 6, 2016, at 7:14 AM, hrothrekrsson@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>> 
>>  
>> Hi All,
>> Long time stalker, first time poster here.
>> Firstly, thank you for all the information sharing here-I have learnt a lot.
>> I teach at a music school where we have a rather full junk drawer of cheap mouthpieces, and I have been availing of this opportunity to learn some refacing skills.
>> Yesterday I was working on a plastic Chinese tenor piece, and using one of the excel files posted to the files section, of an Otto Link facing curve, as a guide.
>> As I approached the intended curve I got to a point where I was within one or two tenths of a millimetre of the plotted curve, and I play tested it-liked the results-and decided that was close enough.
>> So, my question is: when you professional guys do this do you always hit your plotted curves 100% on the money, or is there a margin within which you will play test and decide it is done if it is close enough to the plan and the results are pleasing? If so, what would you say is your margin within which you will call such a job done?
>> Thanks again,
>> Daniel
> 
> 
> 
>