FROM: mike_wilkens2000 ()
SUBJECT: Working on tip rails, baffles & inside corners.
So this is where I am with refacing. I know the mouthpieces I have refaced don't play like my favorite mouthpieces, but I need to get deeper into baffles and inside corners to really know why.
 

After I have learned as much as I can on my own with online resources I plan to send the handful of mouthpieces I have refaced out to willing professional refacers for critiques & suggestions on how to get to the next level. 

 However, I realized that I may be able to get that process started online by posting photos up here.
 

 I'm sure there is a limit to what you can provide via photos, but if any of you guys can comment on some of my best amature work so far, it would be much appreciated. It's likely some of my blaring errors can be seen in smartphone photos!
 

 1) Beuscher Soprano (2 photos)
 2) Meliphone Special Tenor (1 photo)
 3) Geo. M. Bundy 4 Alto (2 photos)
 

 If better photos or better angles would help anyone please let me know.
 

 Thanks!
 


FROM: kwbradbury (Keith Bradbury)
SUBJECT: Re: Working on tip rails, baffles & inside corners. [5 Attachments]
It is not possible to see most facing curve issues by eye.  I do not see any major kinks.   Your side rails may be wider than reeds on some of them.  If they are, I would file/sand them down to match typical reeds.  This helps with reed centering and also with articulation near the tip (I think).  

> On Nov 21, 2014, at 4:12 PM, mike@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
> [Attachment(s) from mike@mikewilkens.com [MouthpieceWork] included below]
> So this is where I am with refacing. I know the mouthpieces I have refaced don't play like my favorite mouthpieces, but I need to get deeper into baffles and inside corners to really know why.
> 
> After I have learned as much as I can on my own with online resources I plan to send the handful of mouthpieces I have refaced out to willing professional refacers for critiques & suggestions on how to get to the next level.
> 
> However, I realized that I may be able to get that process started online by posting photos up here.
> 
> I'm sure there is a limit to what you can provide via photos, but if any of you guys can comment on some of my best amature work so far, it would be much appreciated. It's likely some of my blaring errors can be seen in smartphone photos!
> 
> 1) Beuscher Soprano (2 photos)
> 2) Meliphone Special Tenor (1 photo)
> 3) Geo. M. Bundy 4 Alto (2 photos)
> 
> If better photos or better angles would help anyone please let me know.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
FROM: lancelotburt (MartinMods)
SUBJECT: Re: Working on tip rails, baffles & inside corners.
Looks pretty good. Like Kieth mentioned, the side rails look a little wide.  You state in your first paragraph what you need to do - get further into the tip rails/corners/baffles, so why not do that?  A good facing curve alone won't make a mouthpiece that plays.  Look at your good mouthpieces for your guide.  Take your time.
 

   

  On Saturday, November 22, 2014 6:42 PM, "Keith Bradbury kwbradbury@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
   

     It is not possible to see most facing curve issues by eye.  I do not see any major kinks.   Your side rails may be wider than reeds on some of them.  If they are, I would file/sand them down to match typical reeds.  This helps with reed centering and also with articulation near the tip (I think).  
On Nov 21, 2014, at 4:12 PM, mike@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


    So this is where I am with refacing. I know the mouthpieces I have refaced don't play like my favorite mouthpieces, but I need to get deeper into baffles and inside corners to really know why.
After I have learned as much as I can on my own with online resources I plan to send the handful of mouthpieces I have refaced out to willing professional refacers for critiques & suggestions on how to get to the next level.
However, I realized that I may be able to get that process started online by posting photos up here.
I'm sure there is a limit to what you can provide via photos, but if any of you guys can comment on some of my best amature work so far, it would be much appreciated. It's likely some of my blaring errors can be seen in smartphone photos!
1) Beuscher Soprano (2 photos)2) Meliphone Special Tenor (1 photo)3) Geo. M. Bundy 4 Alto (2 photos)
If better photos or better angles would help anyone please let me know.
Thanks!
  
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FROM: mike_wilkens2000 ()
SUBJECT: Re: Working on tip rails, baffles & inside corners.
Keith: Yes, the side rails are definitely wide. I assumed that was mostly cosmetic so I was saving that for later. But if there's an articulation effect then I'll get to it and see if I can feel the difference. 

 MartinMods: The problem is I don't know what more to do with the tip rails, inside corners & baffles.
 

 Maybe I just need to finish the curves. These still have rough curves. I was waiting to see if anything else needs to be done to the baffles first.

 

 Some mouthpieces (I've noticed it on some HR Links) have inside corners (the side rails just a few mm's from the tip rail) that flare out to the sides. Has anyone experimented with this? Can anyone comment on the effect/results of this?
 

 Thanks to both of you for your input! It feels good to know I'm on the right track.
 

 (Sorry if this posts twice... it didn't seem to send the first time I tried)
FROM: lancelotburt (MartinMods)
SUBJECT: Re: Working on tip rails, baffles & inside corners.
There is no one way to do anything.  

What works for me is to get a good facing and trim the side rails, then bring the baffle to where it is close to where it should be, and then to do the tip rail.  Play testing begins then and usually there are baffle/tip rail adjustments to make.  If they go well a refacing isn't necessary.  Sometimes it is though.  I never try to play a half finished facing and I don't make facing adjustments to compensate for baffle issues.  Once I have my curve, I leave it alone. All my tone/response adjustments are done on the baffle.  That usually takes longer, but I think I get better results keeping the geometry that determines mechanical forces (how the reed rolls up the facing curve as a result of embouchure and blowing air pressure) separate from the geometry that determines acoustical forces (how internal mouthpiece air pressure changes and Bernoulli force affect the reed).  That's just me, though.

I like the tip rail width to be even, corner to corner, with as little radius in the corners as possible.  


 

     On Sunday, November 23, 2014 11:59 PM, "mike@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
   

     Keith: Yes, the side rails are definitely wide. I assumed that was mostly cosmetic so I was saving that for later. But if there's an articulation effect then I'll get to it and see if I can feel the difference.
MartinMods: The problem is I don't know what more to do with the tip rails, inside corners & baffles.
Maybe I just need to finish the curves. These still have rough curves. I was waiting to see if anything else needs to be done to the baffles first.

Some mouthpieces (I've noticed it on some HR Links) have inside corners (the side rails just a few mm's from the tip rail) that flare out to the sides. Has anyone experimented with this? Can anyone comment on the effect/results of this?
Thanks to both of you for your input! It feels good to know I'm on the right track.
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FROM: mike_wilkens2000 ()
SUBJECT: Re: Working on tip rails, baffles & inside corners.
Martin: Please clarify a bit for me when you say, "with as little radius in the corners as possible" You are talking about the inside corners? When you say "as little radius" it means you want a clear point at the corner between the side rails and tip rail with no rounding?
 

 Thanks!

FROM: lancelotburt (MartinMods)
SUBJECT: Re: Working on tip rails, baffles & inside corners.
Mike,
The tip rail surface meets the side rail surface at a (just guessing) 120 degree angle.  You want that inside corner to be as deliberate and accurate as possible, while the rails maintain their even thickness - the baffle curve there should reflect the same precision as well.
Lance 

     On Tuesday, November 25, 2014 9:56 AM, "mike@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
   

     Martin:Please clarify a bit for me when you say, "with as little radius in the corners as possible"You are talking about the inside corners? When you say "as little radius" it means you want a clear point at the corner between the side rails and tip rail with no rounding?
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