Hi all-

Would anyone care to recommend a file that is specifically designed for
stainless steel or works well for material removal?

This is what a google search yielded:

http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201j/index.html

Thanks

-- 
Matt
www.matthewvossjazz.com

These look similar to Valtitan files, but I have not tried Corinox.  After, 2-3 SS mouthpieces a Valtitan file is too dull.  

I tried some inexpensive files sold by MicrMark as diamond impregnated.  They were way too coarse and left deep scratches.  

I rarely do major work on SS.  If I do I use grinding points in my rotary tool.

> On Mar 11, 2014, at 4:21 PM, Matthew Voss <matthewvossjazz@...> wrote:
> 
> Hi all-
> 
> Would anyone care to recommend a file that is specifically designed for stainless steel or works well for material removal?
> 
> This is what a google search yielded:
> 
> http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201j/index.html
> 
> Thanks 
> 
> -- 
> Matt
> www.matthewvossjazz.com
>  
> 

I, too, have been using inexpensive diamond grit files that I can purchase
locally but they are small in the hand.  Was looking for something a little
larger that might be more aggressive...

Thanks again.


On Tue, Mar 11, 2014 at 5:34 PM, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...>wrote:

>
>
> These look similar to Valtitan files, but I have not tried Corinox.
>  After, 2-3 SS mouthpieces a Valtitan file is too dull.
>
> I tried some inexpensive files sold by MicrMark as diamond impregnated.
>  They were way too coarse and left deep scratches.
>
> I rarely do major work on SS.  If I do I use grinding points in my rotary
> tool.
>
> On Mar 11, 2014, at 4:21 PM, Matthew Voss <matthewvossjazz@...>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi all-
>
> Would anyone care to recommend a file that is specifically designed for
> stainless steel or works well for material removal?
>
> This is what a google search yielded:
>
> http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201j/index.html
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> Matt
> www.matthewvossjazz.com
>
>
>   
>



-- 
Matt
www.matthewvossjazz.com

304/304L stainless is only slightly harder than mild steel, so your normal HF cheapo file ($3.95 for 12) will cut it just fine for material removal.  The chromium content makes stainless gummy though, causing a lot more friction which will quickly dull any file if you rake it constantly on the back stroke.  Cutting strokes need to be definite, in one direction, light pressure, and not too fast.  If you get impatient you will ruin the tool on stainless steel.

One HF file will easily handle the pre-diamond/lapidary grit polishing, rough chamber shaping phase of 2-3 mouthpieces before I use it for a leather padded polishing handle, solder pick, or brazing flux applicator.  At that price, I just get a new one.

Diamond files cut a bit slower, but they handle even work hardened stainless.  As Kieth said, they leave scratches, so they are not for fine finishing.  Wet/dry sandpaper works great on flat surfaces but the edges cause more scratches than they remove on curved surfaces.  For fine shaping/polishing I use Fine lapidary grit on a leather pad glued to a dulled file, wet.

Coarse material removal I do with a 1/4" carbide ball cutter on a rotary tool - light cuts - 50% contact to keep the tool cool.  I don't use grinding stone tools as they cause too much heat which can ruin the stainless' anti-corrosion properties (and see note below).  

Note - When cutting/filing stainless, one should use a P100 grade mask/respirator, as the microscopic hexavalent chromium particles released (looks like smoke when cutting on a mill or lathe or using grinding tools) are carcinogenic.



On Tuesday, March 11, 2014 1:34 PM, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
 
  
These look similar to Valtitan files, but I have not tried Corinox.  After, 2-3 SS mouthpieces a Valtitan file is too dull.  

I tried some inexpensive files sold by MicrMark as diamond impregnated.  They were way too coarse and left deep scratches.  

I rarely do major work on SS.  If I do I use grinding points in my rotary tool.

On Mar 11, 2014, at 4:21 PM, Matthew Voss <matthewvossjazz@...> wrote:


  
>Hi all-
>
>
>Would anyone care to recommend a file that is specifically designed for stainless steel or works well for material removal?
>
>
>This is what a google search yielded:
>
>
>http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201j/index.html
>
>
>
>Thanks 
>
>
>-- 
>
>Matt
>www.matthewvossjazz.com
> 

Thanks so much for the great info.

Matt


On Tue, Mar 11, 2014 at 6:38 PM, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote:

>
>
> 304/304L stainless is only slightly harder than mild steel, so your normal
> HF cheapo file ($3.95 for 12) will cut it just fine for material removal.
>  The chromium content makes stainless gummy though, causing a lot more
> friction which will quickly dull any file if you rake it constantly on the
> back stroke.  Cutting strokes need to be definite, in one direction, light
> pressure, and not too fast.  If you get impatient you will ruin the tool on
> stainless steel.
>
> One HF file will easily handle the pre-diamond/lapidary grit polishing,
> rough chamber shaping phase of 2-3 mouthpieces before I use it for a
> leather padded polishing handle, solder pick, or brazing flux applicator.
>  At that price, I just get a new one.
>
> Diamond files cut a bit slower, but they handle even work hardened
> stainless.  As Kieth said, they leave scratches, so they are not for fine
> finishing.  Wet/dry sandpaper works great on flat surfaces but the edges
> cause more scratches than they remove on curved surfaces.  For fine
> shaping/polishing I use Fine lapidary grit on a leather pad glued to a
> dulled file, wet.
>
> Coarse material removal I do with a 1/4" carbide ball cutter on a rotary
> tool - light cuts - 50% contact to keep the tool cool.  I don't use
> grinding stone tools as they cause too much heat which can ruin the
> stainless' anti-corrosion properties (and see note below).
>
> Note - When cutting/filing stainless, one should use a P100 grade
> mask/respirator, as the microscopic hexavalent chromium particles released
> (looks like smoke when cutting on a mill or lathe or using grinding tools)
> are carcinogenic.
>
>
>   On Tuesday, March 11, 2014 1:34 PM, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...>
> wrote:
>
>  These look similar to Valtitan files, but I have not tried Corinox.
>  After, 2-3 SS mouthpieces a Valtitan file is too dull.
>
> I tried some inexpensive files sold by MicrMark as diamond impregnated.
>  They were way too coarse and left deep scratches.
>
> I rarely do major work on SS.  If I do I use grinding points in my rotary
> tool.
>
> On Mar 11, 2014, at 4:21 PM, Matthew Voss <matthewvossjazz@...>
> wrote:
>
>
> Hi all-
>
> Would anyone care to recommend a file that is specifically designed for
> stainless steel or works well for material removal?
>
> This is what a google search yielded:
>
> http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201j/index.html
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> Matt
> www.matthewvossjazz.com
>
>
>
>
>    
>



-- 
Matt
www.matthewvossjazz.com

I use sheets of sticky sandpaper on my files. I haven't found files that
are durable enough so the sand paper works fine for me.



On Wed, Mar 12, 2014 at 12:54 PM, Matthew Voss <matthewvossjazz@...>wrote:

>
>
> Thanks so much for the great info.
>
> Matt
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 11, 2014 at 6:38 PM, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...>wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> 304/304L stainless is only slightly harder than mild steel, so your
>> normal HF cheapo file ($3.95 for 12) will cut it just fine for material
>> removal.  The chromium content makes stainless gummy though, causing a lot
>> more friction which will quickly dull any file if you rake it constantly on
>> the back stroke.  Cutting strokes need to be definite, in one direction,
>> light pressure, and not too fast.  If you get impatient you will ruin the
>> tool on stainless steel.
>>
>> One HF file will easily handle the pre-diamond/lapidary grit polishing,
>> rough chamber shaping phase of 2-3 mouthpieces before I use it for a
>> leather padded polishing handle, solder pick, or brazing flux applicator.
>>  At that price, I just get a new one.
>>
>> Diamond files cut a bit slower, but they handle even work hardened
>> stainless.  As Kieth said, they leave scratches, so they are not for fine
>> finishing.  Wet/dry sandpaper works great on flat surfaces but the edges
>> cause more scratches than they remove on curved surfaces.  For fine
>> shaping/polishing I use Fine lapidary grit on a leather pad glued to a
>> dulled file, wet.
>>
>> Coarse material removal I do with a 1/4" carbide ball cutter on a rotary
>> tool - light cuts - 50% contact to keep the tool cool.  I don't use
>> grinding stone tools as they cause too much heat which can ruin the
>> stainless' anti-corrosion properties (and see note below).
>>
>> Note - When cutting/filing stainless, one should use a P100 grade
>> mask/respirator, as the microscopic hexavalent chromium particles released
>> (looks like smoke when cutting on a mill or lathe or using grinding tools)
>> are carcinogenic.
>>
>>
>>   On Tuesday, March 11, 2014 1:34 PM, Keith Bradbury <
>> kwbradbury@...> wrote:
>>
>>  These look similar to Valtitan files, but I have not tried Corinox.
>>  After, 2-3 SS mouthpieces a Valtitan file is too dull.
>>
>> I tried some inexpensive files sold by MicrMark as diamond impregnated.
>>  They were way too coarse and left deep scratches.
>>
>> I rarely do major work on SS.  If I do I use grinding points in my rotary
>> tool.
>>
>> On Mar 11, 2014, at 4:21 PM, Matthew Voss <matthewvossjazz@...>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi all-
>>
>> Would anyone care to recommend a file that is specifically designed for
>> stainless steel or works well for material removal?
>>
>> This is what a google search yielded:
>>
>> http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201j/index.html
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> --
>> Matt
>> www.matthewvossjazz.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Matt
> www.matthewvossjazz.com
>
>
>  
>



-- 
Sakshama

www. sakshamamouthpieces.com