Hi

I took m dremel to a ponzol M2 Plus to lower the baffle, and make it somewhat more like a Guardala MB2 or MB1 (inspired by mojo bari's videos! thanks)  I 'm starting to get the color and flexibility I want out of it, while retaining the brightness and maybe even more volume.

After playing it for a gig I kept the reed on like I always do.  A few days later I went to play it, and it looks like a brownish, redish almost rust has formed on the areas that I carved into.  Not all of it but in certain nooks of it.  This is a stainless steel mouthpiece.

Does anyone know what it might be?  Some kind of chemical reaction to m saliva? Is there a way I can clean it out without further sanding it?(I'm happy with the sound and don't want to go much further).  Is it safe to play? (it's all inside, obviously under the reed).

Thanks, Bill 

Sounds like your Dremel cutting/grinding tool had been previously used on normal steel or iron.  The roughened stainless surface has now been contaminated with steel/iron dust, which has begun to rust.  Phosphoric acid (Home Depot) is commonly used to clean rust contamination stains from stainless steel.





________________________________
 From: lthom172 <lthom172@...>
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 7:46 PM
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
 


  
Hi

I took m dremel to a ponzol M2 Plus to lower the baffle, and make it somewhat more like a Guardala MB2 or MB1 (inspired by mojo bari's videos! thanks)  I 'm starting to get the color and flexibility I want out of it, while retaining the brightness and maybe even more volume.

After playing it for a gig I kept the reed on like I always do.  A few days later I went to play it, and it looks like a brownish, redish almost rust has formed on the areas that I carved into.  Not all of it but in certain nooks of it.  This is a stainless steel mouthpiece.

Does anyone know what it might be?  Some kind of chemical reaction to m saliva? Is there a way I can clean it out without further sanding it?(I'm happy with the sound and don't want to go much further).  Is it safe to play? (it's all inside, obviously under the reed).

Thanks, Bill 


 

Coca Cola has just enough...


________________________________
 From: MartinMods <lancelotburt@...>
To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 9:35 PM
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
 


  
Sounds like your Dremel cutting/grinding tool had been previously used on normal steel or iron.  The roughened stainless surface has now been contaminated with steel/iron dust, which has begun to rust.  Phosphoric acid (Home Depot) is commonly used to clean rust contamination stains from stainless steel.





________________________________
 From: lthom172 <lthom172@...>
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 7:46 PM
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
 


  
Hi

I took m dremel to a ponzol M2 Plus to lower the baffle, and make it somewhat more like a Guardala MB2 or MB1 (inspired by mojo bari's videos! thanks)  I 'm starting to get the color and flexibility I want out of it, while retaining the brightness and maybe even more volume.

After playing it for a gig I kept the reed on like I always do.  A few days later I went to play it, and it looks like a brownish, redish almost rust has formed on the areas that I carved into.  Not all of it but in certain nooks of it.  This is a stainless steel mouthpiece.

Does anyone know what it might be?  Some kind of chemical reaction to m saliva? Is there a way I can clean it out without further sanding it?(I'm happy with the sound and don't want to go much further).  Is it safe to play? (it's all inside, obviously under the reed).

Thanks, Bill 




 

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "lthom172" <lthom172@...> wrote:
>
(yada yada yada editied out to get to the important part)
> 
> After playing it for a gig I kept the reed on like I always do.  

(yada yada yada edited out)
> 
> Thanks, Bill
>

(Paul going into teacher mode)

Dang, Bill! You're old enough to work on mouthpieces and you STILL leave your reed on your mouthpiece?  Do you know what that does to your reed?  Do you know what grows inside the mouthpiece if it doesn't dry out good?  And you put that mouthpiece back in your mouth?  Do you kiss your wife with that mouth?

(Paul leave teacher mode)

Sorry, I just had to say something.  Hahahahaha....

Paul C.

I have seen some stainless steel castings contaminated with iron specks.  Mostly Bergs.

On Jun 30, 2013, at 11:35 PM, MartinMods <lancelotburt@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Sounds like your Dremel cutting/grinding tool had been previously used on normal steel or iron.  The roughened stainless surface has now been contaminated with steel/iron dust, which has begun to rust.  Phosphoric acid (Home Depot) is commonly used to clean rust contamination stains from stainless steel.
> 
> 
> 
> From: lthom172 <lthom172@...>
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
> Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 7:46 PM
> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
> 
>  
> Hi
> 
> I took m dremel to a ponzol M2 Plus to lower the baffle, and make it somewhat more like a Guardala MB2 or MB1 (inspired by mojo bari's videos! thanks) I 'm starting to get the color and flexibility I want out of it, while retaining the brightness and maybe even more volume.
> 
> After playing it for a gig I kept the reed on like I always do. A few days later I went to play it, and it looks like a brownish, redish almost rust has formed on the areas that I carved into. Not all of it but in certain nooks of it. This is a stainless steel mouthpiece.
> 
> Does anyone know what it might be? Some kind of chemical reaction to m saliva? Is there a way I can clean it out without further sanding it?(I'm happy with the sound and don't want to go much further). Is it safe to play? (it's all inside, obviously under the reed).
> 
> Thanks, Bill 
> 
> 
> 
> 

Thanks for the suggestions.  Pepsi didn't work, and silver polish and tarnish remover also didn't work.

The dremel and bits were brand new out of the package, so I'm not sure it could have been contaminated.  I did notice that when I was working on it that it became too hot too handle at one point, and I had to put it down.  Also, some of this brown stuff started forming overnight before I actually used it on a gig, and the reed was off overnight.

I'll try home depot next.  Maybe there's an aisle for "screwed up baffle work"!

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
>
> I have seen some stainless steel castings contaminated with iron specks.  Mostly Bergs.
> 
> On Jun 30, 2013, at 11:35 PM, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote:
> 
> > Sounds like your Dremel cutting/grinding tool had been previously used on normal steel or iron.  The roughened stainless surface has now been contaminated with steel/iron dust, which has begun to rust.  Phosphoric acid (Home Depot) is commonly used to clean rust contamination stains from stainless steel.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > From: lthom172 <lthom172@...>
> > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
> > Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 7:46 PM
> > Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
> > 
> >  
> > Hi
> > 
> > I took m dremel to a ponzol M2 Plus to lower the baffle, and make it somewhat more like a Guardala MB2 or MB1 (inspired by mojo bari's videos! thanks) I 'm starting to get the color and flexibility I want out of it, while retaining the brightness and maybe even more volume.
> > 
> > After playing it for a gig I kept the reed on like I always do. A few days later I went to play it, and it looks like a brownish, redish almost rust has formed on the areas that I carved into. Not all of it but in certain nooks of it. This is a stainless steel mouthpiece.
> > 
> > Does anyone know what it might be? Some kind of chemical reaction to m saliva? Is there a way I can clean it out without further sanding it?(I'm happy with the sound and don't want to go much further). Is it safe to play? (it's all inside, obviously under the reed).
> > 
> > Thanks, Bill 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >
>

You might try using some stainless steel wool. I've been able to source it
from woodwork or fibreglass specialists. It won't take off too much metal,
hopefully just the crud. Alternatively some fine (600+) w & d on a sanding
stick.

Tony F.

 

 

From: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com [mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of lthom172
Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2013 2:18 AM
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Mouthpiece gook forming

 

  

Thanks for the suggestions. Pepsi didn't work, and silver polish and tarnish
remover also didn't work.

The dremel and bits were brand new out of the package, so I'm not sure it
could have been contaminated. I did notice that when I was working on it
that it became too hot too handle at one point, and I had to put it down.
Also, some of this brown stuff started forming overnight before I actually
used it on a gig, and the reed was off overnight.

I'll try home depot next. Maybe there's an aisle for "screwed up baffle
work"!

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com> , Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...>
wrote:
>
> I have seen some stainless steel castings contaminated with iron specks.
Mostly Bergs.
> 
> On Jun 30, 2013, at 11:35 PM, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote:
> 
> > Sounds like your Dremel cutting/grinding tool had been previously used
on normal steel or iron. The roughened stainless surface has now been
contaminated with steel/iron dust, which has begun to rust. Phosphoric acid
(Home Depot) is commonly used to clean rust contamination stains from
stainless steel.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > From: lthom172 <lthom172@...>
> > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com>  
> > Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 7:46 PM
> > Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
> > 
> > 
> > Hi
> > 
> > I took m dremel to a ponzol M2 Plus to lower the baffle, and make it
somewhat more like a Guardala MB2 or MB1 (inspired by mojo bari's videos!
thanks) I 'm starting to get the color and flexibility I want out of it,
while retaining the brightness and maybe even more volume.
> > 
> > After playing it for a gig I kept the reed on like I always do. A few
days later I went to play it, and it looks like a brownish, redish almost
rust has formed on the areas that I carved into. Not all of it but in
certain nooks of it. This is a stainless steel mouthpiece.
> > 
> > Does anyone know what it might be? Some kind of chemical reaction to m
saliva? Is there a way I can clean it out without further sanding it?(I'm
happy with the sound and don't want to go much further). Is it safe to play?
(it's all inside, obviously under the reed).
> > 
> > Thanks, Bill 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >
>

Thanks, what's w and d?

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 1, 2013, at 12:27 PM, "Tony Fairbridge" <tfairbri@...> wrote:

> You might try using some stainless steel wool. I’ve been able to source it from woodwork or fibreglass specialists. It won’t take off too much metal, hopefully just the crud. Alternatively some fine (600+) w & d on a sanding stick.
> 
> Tony F.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com [mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of lthom172
> Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2013 2:18 AM
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Mouthpiece gook forming
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. Pepsi didn't work, and silver polish and tarnish remover also didn't work.
> 
> The dremel and bits were brand new out of the package, so I'm not sure it could have been contaminated. I did notice that when I was working on it that it became too hot too handle at one point, and I had to put it down. Also, some of this brown stuff started forming overnight before I actually used it on a gig, and the reed was off overnight.
> 
> I'll try home depot next. Maybe there's an aisle for "screwed up baffle work"!
> 
> --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
> >
> > I have seen some stainless steel castings contaminated with iron specks. Mostly Bergs.
> > 
> > On Jun 30, 2013, at 11:35 PM, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote:
> > 
> > > Sounds like your Dremel cutting/grinding tool had been previously used on normal steel or iron. The roughened stainless surface has now been contaminated with steel/iron dust, which has begun to rust. Phosphoric acid (Home Depot) is commonly used to clean rust contamination stains from stainless steel.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > From: lthom172 <lthom172@...>
> > > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
> > > Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 7:46 PM
> > > Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Hi
> > > 
> > > I took m dremel to a ponzol M2 Plus to lower the baffle, and make it somewhat more like a Guardala MB2 or MB1 (inspired by mojo bari's videos! thanks) I 'm starting to get the color and flexibility I want out of it, while retaining the brightness and maybe even more volume.
> > > 
> > > After playing it for a gig I kept the reed on like I always do. A few days later I went to play it, and it looks like a brownish, redish almost rust has formed on the areas that I carved into. Not all of it but in certain nooks of it. This is a stainless steel mouthpiece.
> > > 
> > > Does anyone know what it might be? Some kind of chemical reaction to m saliva? Is there a way I can clean it out without further sanding it?(I'm happy with the sound and don't want to go much further). Is it safe to play? (it's all inside, obviously under the reed).
> > > 
> > > Thanks, Bill 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > >
> >
> 
> 
> 

Wet and dry paper, used for getting a fine finish. 600 grit is fine, use 1200 for a smoother finish. Use it on a sanding stick with a bit of cork or thick double sided tape. Works wet or dry. I generally use it with soapy water as a lubricator. Get it in engineering or paint shops.

Tony F.

 

From: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com [mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lori Thomas
Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2013 2:34 AM
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Mouthpiece gook forming

 

  

Thanks, what's w and d?

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 1, 2013, at 12:27 PM, "Tony Fairbridge" <tfairbri@...> wrote:

  

You might try using some stainless steel wool. I’ve been able to source it from woodwork or fibreglass specialists. It won’t take off too much metal, hopefully just the crud. Alternatively some fine (600+) w & d on a sanding stick.

Tony F.

 

 

From: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com [mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of lthom172
Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2013 2:18 AM
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Mouthpiece gook forming

 

  

Thanks for the suggestions. Pepsi didn't work, and silver polish and tarnish remover also didn't work.

The dremel and bits were brand new out of the package, so I'm not sure it could have been contaminated. I did notice that when I was working on it that it became too hot too handle at one point, and I had to put it down. Also, some of this brown stuff started forming overnight before I actually used it on a gig, and the reed was off overnight.

I'll try home depot next. Maybe there's an aisle for "screwed up baffle work"!

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com <mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com> , Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
>
> I have seen some stainless steel castings contaminated with iron specks. Mostly Bergs.
> 
> On Jun 30, 2013, at 11:35 PM, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote:
> 
> > Sounds like your Dremel cutting/grinding tool had been previously used on normal steel or iron. The roughened stainless surface has now been contaminated with steel/iron dust, which has begun to rust. Phosphoric acid (Home Depot) is commonly used to clean rust contamination stains from stainless steel.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > From: lthom172 <lthom172@...>
> > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com <mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com>  
> > Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 7:46 PM
> > Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
> > 
> > 
> > Hi
> > 
> > I took m dremel to a ponzol M2 Plus to lower the baffle, and make it somewhat more like a Guardala MB2 or MB1 (inspired by mojo bari's videos! thanks) I 'm starting to get the color and flexibility I want out of it, while retaining the brightness and maybe even more volume.
> > 
> > After playing it for a gig I kept the reed on like I always do. A few days later I went to play it, and it looks like a brownish, redish almost rust has formed on the areas that I carved into. Not all of it but in certain nooks of it. This is a stainless steel mouthpiece.
> > 
> > Does anyone know what it might be? Some kind of chemical reaction to m saliva? Is there a way I can clean it out without further sanding it?(I'm happy with the sound and don't want to go much further). Is it safe to play? (it's all inside, obviously under the reed).
> > 
> > Thanks, Bill 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >
>

 If the idea is to not take off any more material from the mouthpiece, then you should not use anything that is as hard or harder than the  mouthpiece metal . This leaves out both stainless steel wool and high grade finishing paper.
  It would be safer to start with a softer abrasive like regular 0000 steel wool, perhaps soaked in  various solvents to see what might take it off , and then work up in hardness from there until you  find a way to remove the gunk. Peter

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "Tony Fairbridge" <tfairbri@...> wrote:
>
> Wet and dry paper, used for getting a fine finish. 600 grit is fine, use 1200 for a smoother finish. Use it on a sanding stick with a bit of cork or thick double sided tape. Works wet or dry. I generally use it with soapy water as a lubricator. Get it in engineering or paint shops.
> 
> Tony F.
> 
>  
> 
> From: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com [mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lori Thomas
> Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2013 2:34 AM
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Mouthpiece gook forming
> 
>  
> 
>   
> 
> Thanks, what's w and d?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> On Jul 1, 2013, at 12:27 PM, "Tony Fairbridge" <tfairbri@...> wrote:
> 
>   
> 
> You might try using some stainless steel wool. I’ve been able to source it from woodwork or fibreglass specialists. It won’t take off too much metal, hopefully just the crud. Alternatively some fine (600+) w & d on a sanding stick.
> 
> Tony F.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com [mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of lthom172
> Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2013 2:18 AM
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Mouthpiece gook forming
> 
>  
> 
>   
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. Pepsi didn't work, and silver polish and tarnish remover also didn't work.
> 
> The dremel and bits were brand new out of the package, so I'm not sure it could have been contaminated. I did notice that when I was working on it that it became too hot too handle at one point, and I had to put it down. Also, some of this brown stuff started forming overnight before I actually used it on a gig, and the reed was off overnight.
> 
> I'll try home depot next. Maybe there's an aisle for "screwed up baffle work"!
> 
> --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com <mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com> , Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@> wrote:
> >
> > I have seen some stainless steel castings contaminated with iron specks. Mostly Bergs.
> > 
> > On Jun 30, 2013, at 11:35 PM, MartinMods <lancelotburt@> wrote:
> > 
> > > Sounds like your Dremel cutting/grinding tool had been previously used on normal steel or iron. The roughened stainless surface has now been contaminated with steel/iron dust, which has begun to rust. Phosphoric acid (Home Depot) is commonly used to clean rust contamination stains from stainless steel.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > From: lthom172 <lthom172@>
> > > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com <mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com>  
> > > Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 7:46 PM
> > > Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Hi
> > > 
> > > I took m dremel to a ponzol M2 Plus to lower the baffle, and make it somewhat more like a Guardala MB2 or MB1 (inspired by mojo bari's videos! thanks) I 'm starting to get the color and flexibility I want out of it, while retaining the brightness and maybe even more volume.
> > > 
> > > After playing it for a gig I kept the reed on like I always do. A few days later I went to play it, and it looks like a brownish, redish almost rust has formed on the areas that I carved into. Not all of it but in certain nooks of it. This is a stainless steel mouthpiece.
> > > 
> > > Does anyone know what it might be? Some kind of chemical reaction to m saliva? Is there a way I can clean it out without further sanding it?(I'm happy with the sound and don't want to go much further). Is it safe to play? (it's all inside, obviously under the reed).
> > > 
> > > Thanks, Bill 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > >
> >
>

I can't imagine that BL casts stainless steel. Surely they work from solid rod/hex/bar stock.  Rough machining/grinding will leave the surface pitted.  The specks are just pits that weren't polished out.

SS wool won't clean contaminants  stuck in there.  You'll just have to polish the surface smooth, and polishing will alter the internal dimensions, to the depth of the pits.  One must take that into account from the start :-)   I use fine lapidary grit for polishing out file/machining marks.  A strip of thick leather glued to an old HF file makes a nice polishing tool.




________________________________
 From: Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...>
To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2013 7:03 AM
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
 


  
I have seen some stainless steel castings contaminated with iron specks.  Mostly Bergs.

On Jun 30, 2013, at 11:35 PM, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote:


  
>Sounds like your Dremel cutting/grinding tool had been previously used on normal steel or iron.  The roughened stainless surface has now been contaminated with steel/iron dust, which has begun to rust.  Phosphoric acid (Home Depot) is commonly used to clean rust contamination stains from stainless steel.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________
> From: lthom172 <lthom172@...>
>To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
>Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 7:46 PM
>Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
> 
>
>
>  
>Hi
>
>I took m dremel to a ponzol M2 Plus to lower the baffle, and make it somewhat more like a Guardala MB2 or MB1 (inspired by mojo bari's videos! thanks)  I 'm starting to get the color and flexibility I want out of it, while retaining the brightness and maybe even more volume.
>
>After playing it for a gig I kept the reed on like I always do.  A few days later I went to play it, and it looks like a brownish, redish almost rust has formed on the areas that I carved into.  Not all of it but in certain nooks of it.  This is a stainless steel mouthpiece.
>
>Does anyone know what it might be?  Some kind of chemical reaction to m saliva? Is there a way I can clean it out without further sanding it?(I'm happy with the sound and don't want to go much further).  Is it safe to play? (it's all inside, obviously under the reed).
>
>Thanks, Bill 
>
>
>
>
 

Thanks for all the suggestions.

How about just playing it as it is? I don't care about ugliness inside, just worried about inhaling something - toxic?




________________________________
 From: MartinMods <lancelotburt@yahoo.com>
To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2013 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
 


  
I can't imagine that BL casts stainless steel. Surely they work from solid rod/hex/bar stock.  Rough machining/grinding will leave the surface pitted.  The specks are just pits that weren't polished out.

SS wool won't clean contaminants  stuck in there.  You'll just have to polish the surface smooth, and polishing will alter the internal dimensions, to the depth of the pits.  One must take that into account from the start :-)   I use fine lapidary grit for polishing out file/machining marks.  A strip of thick leather glued to an old HF file makes a nice polishing tool.




________________________________
 From: Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...>
To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2013 7:03 AM
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
 


  
I have seen some stainless steel castings contaminated with iron specks.  Mostly Bergs.

On Jun 30, 2013, at 11:35 PM, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote:


  
>Sounds like your Dremel cutting/grinding tool had been previously used on normal steel or iron.  The roughened stainless surface has now been contaminated with steel/iron dust, which has begun to rust.  Phosphoric acid (Home Depot) is commonly used to clean rust contamination stains from stainless steel.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________
> From: lthom172 <lthom172@...>
>To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
>Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 7:46 PM
>Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
> 
>
>
>  
>Hi
>
>I took m dremel to a ponzol M2 Plus to lower the baffle, and make it somewhat more like a Guardala MB2 or MB1 (inspired by mojo bari's videos! thanks)  I 'm starting to get the color and flexibility I want out of it, while retaining the brightness and maybe even more volume.
>
>After playing it for a gig I kept the reed on like I always do.  A few days later I went to play it, and it looks like a brownish, redish almost rust has formed on the areas that I carved into.  Not all of it but in certain nooks of it.  This is a stainless steel mouthpiece.
>
>Does anyone know what it might be?  Some kind of chemical reaction to m saliva? Is there a way I can clean it out without further sanding it?(I'm happy with the sound and don't want to go much further).  Is it safe to play? (it's all inside, obviously under the reed).
>
>Thanks, Bill 
>
>
>
>


 

wet and dry paper


On Jul 1, 2013, at 1:04 PM, Lori Thomas <lthom172@yahoo.com> wrote:

> 
> Thanks for all the suggestions.
> 
> How about just playing it as it is? I don't care about ugliness inside, just worried about inhaling something - toxic?
> 
> 
> From: MartinMods <lancelotburt@...>
> To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
> Sent: Monday, July 1, 2013 1:33 PM
> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
> 
>  
> I can't imagine that BL casts stainless steel. Surely they work from solid rod/hex/bar stock.  Rough machining/grinding will leave the surface pitted.  The specks are just pits that weren't polished out.
> 
> SS wool won't clean contaminants  stuck in there.  You'll just have to polish the surface smooth, and polishing will alter the internal dimensions, to the depth of the pits.  One must take that into account from the start :-)   I use fine lapidary grit for polishing out file/machining marks.  A strip of thick leather glued to an old HF file makes a nice polishing tool.
> 
> 
> From: Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...>
> To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
> Sent: Monday, July 1, 2013 7:03 AM
> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
> 
>  
> I have seen some stainless steel castings contaminated with iron specks.  Mostly Bergs.
> 
> On Jun 30, 2013, at 11:35 PM, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote:
> 
>>  
>> Sounds like your Dremel cutting/grinding tool had been previously used on normal steel or iron.  The roughened stainless surface has now been contaminated with steel/iron dust, which has begun to rust.  Phosphoric acid (Home Depot) is commonly used to clean rust contamination stains from stainless steel.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From: lthom172 <lthom172@...>
>> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
>> Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 7:46 PM
>> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Mouthpiece gook forming
>> 
>>  
>> Hi
>> 
>> I took m dremel to a ponzol M2 Plus to lower the baffle, and make it somewhat more like a Guardala MB2 or MB1 (inspired by mojo bari's videos! thanks) I 'm starting to get the color and flexibility I want out of it, while retaining the brightness and maybe even more volume.
>> 
>> After playing it for a gig I kept the reed on like I always do. A few days later I went to play it, and it looks like a brownish, redish almost rust has formed on the areas that I carved into. Not all of it but in certain nooks of it. This is a stainless steel mouthpiece.
>> 
>> Does anyone know what it might be? Some kind of chemical reaction to m saliva? Is there a way I can clean it out without further sanding it?(I'm happy with the sound and don't want to go much further). Is it safe to play? (it's all inside, obviously under the reed).
>> 
>> Thanks, Bill 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

I have a friend who, many years ago, was commissioned to make some
specialised surgical equipment for a surgeon.  When everything was made, he
put a lovely brushed finish on the stainless steel with a steel wire brush,
only to find that the gear started to rust.  Stainless steel WILL rust, and
any piece of non stainless which becomes embedded into the stainless will
seed rust into it.  He ended up having to use a nitric acid pickle paste to
clean out the non stainless particles which were causing the problem.  You
will probably have to do the same sort of thing here.  Phosphoric acid will
probably also work - perhaps try CLR, as there is phosphoric in that, but
you might have to leave it for a while to give it time to clean out the
steel from the stainless steel.  Whatever you do, don't use ordinary steel
wool, as you will only repeat the problem.

Good luck,
Geoff.

Jeff, do you mean leave it to soak in Clr?  Will that screw up the rest of the mouthpiece?  I always tend to hate putting my mouth back on it after that, even after a thorough soap and water cleaning.  Is that safe as far as you know?  Thanks 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 1, 2013, at 6:40 PM, Geoffrey Secomb <geoff@...> wrote:

> I have a friend who, many years ago, was commissioned to make some specialised surgical equipment for a surgeon.  When everything was made, he put a lovely brushed finish on the stainless steel with a steel wire brush, only to find that the gear started to rust.  Stainless steel WILL rust, and any piece of non stainless which becomes embedded into the stainless will seed rust into it.  He ended up having to use a nitric acid pickle paste to clean out the non stainless particles which were causing the problem.  You will probably have to do the same sort of thing here.  Phosphoric acid will probably also work - perhaps try CLR, as there is phosphoric in that, but you might have to leave it for a while to give it time to clean out the steel from the stainless steel.  Whatever you do, don't use ordinary steel wool, as you will only repeat the problem.
> 
> 
> Good luck,
> Geoff.
> 

Hi Lori.  Yes, that is what I mean.  I just put a Larsen piece of mine into
a CLR equivalent for 15 minutes to test.  There was no evident change to
the stainless.  A good soap and water wash should be enough afterwards, but
if you want to stop the acid action, rinse the piece and then put it into a
solution of Sodium Bicarbonate when you're done.

Cheers,
Geoff.

On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 9:25 AM, Lori Thomas <lthom172@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Jeff, do you mean leave it to soak in Clr?  Will that screw up the rest of
> the mouthpiece?  I always tend to hate putting my mouth back on it after
> that, even after a thorough soap and water cleaning.  Is that safe as far
> as you know?  Thanks
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 1, 2013, at 6:40 PM, Geoffrey Secomb <geoff@...>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> I have a friend who, many years ago, was commissioned to make some
> specialised surgical equipment for a surgeon.  When everything was made, he
> put a lovely brushed finish on the stainless steel with a steel wire brush,
> only to find that the gear started to rust.  Stainless steel WILL rust, and
> any piece of non stainless which becomes embedded into the stainless will
> seed rust into it.  He ended up having to use a nitric acid pickle paste to
> clean out the non stainless particles which were causing the problem.  You
> will probably have to do the same sort of thing here.  Phosphoric acid will
> probably also work - perhaps try CLR, as there is phosphoric in that, but
> you might have to leave it for a while to give it time to clean out the
> steel from the stainless steel.  Whatever you do, don't use ordinary steel
> wool, as you will only repeat the problem.
>
> Good luck,
> Geoff.
>
>   
>