Does anyone have any extra sets that they are willing to sell?
I picked up a 5 feeler set from musicmedic.com, but would be interested in a more complete set at a reasonable price. I am considering to order multiple sets, but don't think I want the headache of selling off the extra sets.

Let me know! THANKS!

This html message parsed with html2text ---------------------------I have made my own sets. Google 'feeler gauge sets' and find a set that
includes the gauges you want.

On 02/16/13, Mike wrote:

Does anyone have any extra sets that they are willing to sell?  
I picked up a 5 feeler set from musicmedic.com, but would be interested in a
more complete set at a reasonable price. I am considering to order multiple
sets, but don't think I want the headache of selling off the extra sets.  
  
Let me know! THANKS!  
  

It's my understanding that if you use a normal feeler gauge set for automotive use, the edges will be rounded for any feelers over about .007 inches, and this will give you inaccurate measurements.
Also I believe that automotive sets don't go beyond .032" generally. Both of these can cause significant problems in measuring and in refacing.

I have contacted Eastern Gage, and they said they could make a more complete set, but the cost is quite high to buy only one set. To get down to a reasonable price you would have to buy 10 sets or more.

I'm considering doing this, but it would be a significant investment and headache. So I'm wondering if anyone has already done this. I would be happy to help by buying one of their extra sets.

Please let me know if anyone has anything that might help me out.
Thanks!

As I inherited a dental spot welder from my Dad (used originally to weld 
orthodontic fixtures onto stainless steel bands) , I used it to combine 
automotive feeler gauges, and they measure out consistently using a 
digital caliper. That said, I have no idea where you could get this 
done; and probably not by your local dentist!

Barry Levine

On 2/17/2013 12:58 PM, Mike wrote:
>
> It's my understanding that if you use a normal feeler gauge set for 
> automotive use, the edges will be rounded for any feelers over about 
> .007 inches, and this will give you inaccurate measurements.
> Also I believe that automotive sets don't go beyond .032" generally. 
> Both of these can cause significant problems in measuring and in refacing.
>
> I have contacted Eastern Gage, and they said they could make a more 
> complete set, but the cost is quite high to buy only one set. To get 
> down to a reasonable price you would have to buy 10 sets or more.
>
> I'm considering doing this, but it would be a significant investment 
> and headache. So I'm wondering if anyone has already done this. I 
> would be happy to help by buying one of their extra sets.
>
> Please let me know if anyone has anything that might help me out.
> Thanks!
>
> 

I do not like using rounded feelers, but I have not found most of them to be a problem.  I can usually still see an edge where the rounded edge meets the flat surface.  It is usually not a smooth blend.  If it is too smooth, I sand the edge down until it is easier to use.

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mike@...> wrote:
>
> It's my understanding that if you use a normal feeler gauge set for automotive use, the edges will be rounded for any feelers over about .007 inches, and this will give you inaccurate measurements.
> Also I believe that automotive sets don't go beyond .032" generally. Both of these can cause significant problems in measuring and in refacing.
> 
> I have contacted Eastern Gage, and they said they could make a more complete set, but the cost is quite high to buy only one set. To get down to a reasonable price you would have to buy 10 sets or more.
> 
> I'm considering doing this, but it would be a significant investment and headache. So I'm wondering if anyone has already done this. I would be happy to help by buying one of their extra sets.
> 
> Please let me know if anyone has anything that might help me out.
> Thanks!
>

Since I do aerospace mechanical inspection more than work on mouthpieces
I have to ask a "feeler gauge" question. 

From the discussions I think that blade type feeler gauges are being
used.  These are the type commonly used to set gaps on internal engine
components such a valve gaps and spacing.  Of course these are widely
used in mechanical assemblies.

Another type of feeler gauge is the wire type that are used for open gap
measurement.  They are typically a straight section of wire of known
diameter or a loop of the wire.  These in  bygone decades were commonly
used for measuring the electrode gap on spark plugs. 

Wire gauges tend to be harder to use well but can be more accurate both
for curve contour measurement in the hands of a good mechanical
inspector.  They require more "feel" for the measurement but can give
several points on a curve like a mouthpiece.  That is you can quickly
find a .015 point and then a .022 point and then a .035. 
has anyone played with this on mouthpieces?

Bill Harwood

I think we had a member from Russia who posted a few years ago that he was trying to use them.  Either that or it was drill rod.  His english was a bit broken.

From: "w5wh@..." <w5wh@...>
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2013 10:41 AM
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Feeler gauge sets.

  
Since I do aerospace mechanical inspection more than work on mouthpieces
I have to ask a "feeler gauge" question. 

From the discussions I think that blade type feeler gauges are being
used. These are the type commonly used to set gaps on internal engine
components such a valve gaps and spacing. Of course these are widely
used in mechanical assemblies.

Another type of feeler gauge is the wire type that are used for open gap
measurement. They are typically a straight section of wire of known
diameter or a loop of the wire. These in bygone decades were commonly
used for measuring the electrode gap on spark plugs. 

Wire gauges tend to be harder to use well but can be more accurate both
for curve contour measurement in the hands of a good mechanical
inspector. They require more "feel" for the measurement but can give
several points on a curve like a mouthpiece. That is you can quickly
find a .015 point and then a .022 point and then a .035. 
has anyone played with this on mouthpieces?

Bill Harwood

Maybe I got a bum set of feelers. After more playing around, I realized I can get drastically different readings by moving my feelers left and right.

The worst example of this is when I measure the left rail of a mouthpiece with the .034 feeler. When I measure using the left side of the feeler (furthest from the hole in the feeler) it reads 22mmx2. When I measure around the middle I get 19, and nearest the hole on the right side it returns back to 20.

And these variations correspond to the caliper measurements I took nearing the edges as well.

So I marked what I consider to be the "most consistent spots" on the feelers with a marker. I get more consistent readings when I stick to those areas.

These feelers are more football shaped than ideal, it seems--inconsistent on two axes. :(


--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "MojoBari" <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
>
> I do not like using rounded feelers, but I have not found most of them to be a problem.  I can usually still see an edge where the rounded edge meets the flat surface.  It is usually not a smooth blend.  If it is too smooth, I sand the edge down until it is easier to use.
> 
> --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mike@> wrote:
> >
> > It's my understanding that if you use a normal feeler gauge set for automotive use, the edges will be rounded for any feelers over about .007 inches, and this will give you inaccurate measurements.
> > Also I believe that automotive sets don't go beyond .032" generally. Both of these can cause significant problems in measuring and in refacing.
> > 
> > I have contacted Eastern Gage, and they said they could make a more complete set, but the cost is quite high to buy only one set. To get down to a reasonable price you would have to buy 10 sets or more.
> > 
> > I'm considering doing this, but it would be a significant investment and headache. So I'm wondering if anyone has already done this. I would be happy to help by buying one of their extra sets.
> > 
> > Please let me know if anyone has anything that might help me out.
> > Thanks!
> >
>

Thought about that.  Problem is the line through the points where the wire contacts the gauge and the mouthpiece won't be perpendicular to the gauge.  So your readings will be offset.  Which could be corrected for, except the error will vary with the slope of the tangent to the facing curve, which varies.  This is also the reason for using square edge feelers instead of round.  

I suppose you could make a facing spreadsheet that assumes this sort of reading, but the math is more complicated. And really, how much more accurate is it?  How much more accurate is useful anyway?  Once you've just about hit pretty much all your target numbers you playtest and adjust the facing accordingly anyway, and the numbers go out the window.  



--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "w5wh@..." <w5wh@...> wrote:
>
> Since I do aerospace mechanical inspection more than work on mouthpieces
> I have to ask a "feeler gauge" question. 
> 
> From the discussions I think that blade type feeler gauges are being
> used.  These are the type commonly used to set gaps on internal engine
> components such a valve gaps and spacing.  Of course these are widely
> used in mechanical assemblies.
> 
> Another type of feeler gauge is the wire type that are used for open gap
> measurement.  They are typically a straight section of wire of known
> diameter or a loop of the wire.  These in  bygone decades were commonly
> used for measuring the electrode gap on spark plugs. 
> 
> Wire gauges tend to be harder to use well but can be more accurate both
> for curve contour measurement in the hands of a good mechanical
> inspector.  They require more "feel" for the measurement but can give
> several points on a curve like a mouthpiece.  That is you can quickly
> find a .015 point and then a .022 point and then a .035. 
> has anyone played with this on mouthpieces?
> 
> Bill Harwood
>