None

This html message parsed with html2text ---------------------------There have been some previous discussions about soaking weathered rubber
mouthpieces in vinegar or lemon juice solutions prior to restoring in the past
on this forum. Also using a magic eraser by Mr. Clean to remove residue after
soaking. \\--- notabene79@yahoo.com wrote: From: "notabene79"  To:
MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Buff old rubber
mouthpiece Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2012 13:39:12 -0000 I have some 50+ year old hard
rubber mouthpieces which have leached sulphur and turned brown, the "taste" is
something else! I use a black buffing compound but they never seem to get a
new shine to them. Is there another buffing compound or a technique that might
work better? Many thanks David www.mcclunemouthpiece.com \\--- In
[MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com](mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com),
STEVE GOODSON  wrote: > > > > > > > > * * * Netscape. Just the Net You Need.

I've had great success using very fine wire wool on oxidised old hard rubber
m/p's. I then buff them with a felt wheel on a dremel using toothpaste as a
buffing agent.

Tony F.

 

From: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com [mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of notabene79
Sent: Saturday, 15 December 2012 12:39 AM
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Buff old rubber mouthpiece

 

  

I have some 50+ year old hard rubber mouthpieces which have leached sulphur
and turned brown, the "taste" is something else! I use a black buffing
compound but they never seem to get a new shine to them. Is there another
buffing compound or a technique that might work better?

Many thanks
David

www.mcclunemouthpiece.com

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com> , STEVE GOODSON <saxgourmet@...>
wrote:
>
> > 
> > 
> >
>

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "notabene79" <notabene79@...> wrote:
>
> I have some 50+ year old hard rubber mouthpieces which have leached sulphur and turned brown, the "taste" is something else!  I use a black buffing compound but they never seem to get a new shine to them.  Is there another buffing compound or a technique that might work better?
> 


OK, there are a number of things to do to clean up mouthpieces.  Also, there is nothing you can do to make the mouthpiece look "brand new".  So let's just clean it up nicely for the customer.

Use something acidic to remove white calcium deposits.  Vinegar works but the odor is can be absorbed into some materials.  Use lemon juice instead.

To get the "grunge" off the outside, use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to scrub the mouthpiece.  Do this under a stream of water, lukewarm.  That is neither hot nor cold, just room temperature water.  This may or may not get the green or brown oxidation off.  This process will leave the surface dull.  

To fix that, polish the mouthpiece BY HAND, NOT with a buffing wheel.  We want to avoid damaging the facing.  I've seen many mouthpieces buffed on a buffing wheel by unknowning repairmen.  Sure, it gets the mouthpiece shiney, but it rounds off the side and tip rails, ruining the mouthpiece.  Don't do that.  Use a soft cloth and polish by hand.  I use polishes made for plastics, such as Kit Scratchout or a similar product by McGuires.  You can find plastic polish in auto stores or automotive departments of "big box" stores.

Scratches and gouges may be made more presentable by sanding lightly with 600 grit silicon carbide paper, then 800, then 1000, 1200, 1500.  The polish with the plastic polish.

When done, buff the mouthpiece dry with a clean soft cloth.  It won't look like new, but it will look good enough that you won't mind putting it in your mouth and playing.

Paul C.

Check out the mouthpieces being sold on Ebay by the seller "christopher-elliot-inc".  I come across these mps occasionally and have noticed that in the past few months their vintage hard rubber pieces look really nice.  Polished like new, but with the engraving still bright.  They have either started getting lots of pristine vintage pieces, or figured out some photography trick, or come up with some way of reconditionining pieces.  I can get this look using bronze wool followed by rubbing with a very mild polish, but it takes 30 minutes or more.  I doubt this seller is spending 30 minutes on a piece that will sell for $40.  Some of their pieces are pricey, but some are reasonable and still very nice looking.

I don't know if they have any really vintage pieces right now, but they've recently had 1930's Buescher and Geo. M. Bundy pieces that looked brand new.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Saxophone-/16231/i.html?item1067055929&_ssn=christopher-elliott-inc

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "tenorman1952"  wrote:
>
> 
> 
> --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "notabene79"  wrote:
> >
> > I have some 50+ year old hard rubber mouthpieces which have leached sulphur and turned brown, the "taste" is something else!  I use a black buffing compound but they never seem to get a new shine to them.  Is there another buffing compound or a technique that might work better?
> > 
> 
> 
> OK, there are a number of things to do to clean up mouthpieces.  Also, there is nothing you can do to make the mouthpiece look "brand new".  So let's just clean it up nicely for the customer.
> 
> Use something acidic to remove white calcium deposits.  Vinegar works but the odor is can be absorbed into some materials.  Use lemon juice instead.
> 
> To get the "grunge" off the outside, use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to scrub the mouthpiece.  Do this under a stream of water, lukewarm.  That is neither hot nor cold, just room temperature water.  This may or may not get the green or brown oxidation off.  This process will leave the surface dull.  
> 
> To fix that, polish the mouthpiece BY HAND, NOT with a buffing wheel.  We want to avoid damaging the facing.  I've seen many mouthpieces buffed on a buffing wheel by unknowning repairmen.  Sure, it gets the mouthpiece shiney, but it rounds off the side and tip rails, ruining the mouthpiece.  Don't do that.  Use a soft cloth and polish by hand.  I use polishes made for plastics, such as Kit Scratchout or a similar product by McGuires.  You can find plastic polish in auto stores or automotive departments of "big box" stores.
> 
> Scratches and gouges may be made more presentable by sanding lightly with 600 grit silicon carbide paper, then 800, then 1000, 1200, 1500.  The polish with the plastic polish.
> 
> When done, buff the mouthpiece dry with a clean soft cloth.  It won't look like new, but it will look good enough that you won't mind putting it in your mouth and playing.
> 
> Paul C.
>

I think this seller is the C.E. in C.E Winds.

From: Mark <marklfleming@msn.com>
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 11:23 AM
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Buff old rubber mouthpiece

  
Check out the mouthpieces being sold on Ebay by the seller "christopher-elliot-inc". I come across these mps occasionally and have noticed that in the past few months their vintage hard rubber pieces look really nice. Polished like new, but with the engraving still bright. They have either started getting lots of pristine vintage pieces, or figured out some photography trick, or come up with some way of reconditionining pieces. I can get this look using bronze wool followed by rubbing with a very mild polish, but it takes 30 minutes or more. I doubt this seller is spending 30 minutes on a piece that will sell for $40. Some of their pieces are pricey, but some are reasonable and still very nice looking.

I don't know if they have any really vintage pieces right now, but they've recently had 1930's Buescher and Geo. M. Bundy pieces that looked brand new.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Saxophone-/16231/i.html?item=181067055929&_ssn=christopher-elliott-inc

--- In mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com, "tenorman1952" wrote:
>
> 
> 
> --- In mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com, "notabene79" wrote:
> >
> > I have some 50+ year old hard rubber mouthpieces which have leached sulphur and turned brown, the "taste" is something else! I use a black buffing compound but they never seem to get a new shine to them. Is there another buffing compound or a technique that might work better?
> > 
> 
> 
> OK, there are a number of things to do to clean up mouthpieces. Also, there is nothing you can do to make the mouthpiece look "brand new". So let's just clean it up nicely for the customer.
> 
> Use something acidic to remove white calcium deposits. Vinegar works but the odor is can be absorbed into some materials. Use lemon juice instead.
> 
> To get the "grunge" off the outside, use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to scrub the mouthpiece. Do this under a stream of water, lukewarm. That is neither hot nor cold, just room temperature water. This may or may not get the green or brown oxidation off. This process will leave the surface dull. 
> 
> To fix that, polish the mouthpiece BY HAND, NOT with a buffing wheel. We want to avoid damaging the facing. I've seen many mouthpieces buffed on a buffing wheel by unknowning repairmen. Sure, it gets the mouthpiece shiney, but it rounds off the side and tip rails, ruining the mouthpiece. Don't do that. Use a soft cloth and polish by hand. I use polishes made for plastics, such as Kit Scratchout or a similar product by McGuires. You can find plastic polish in auto stores or automotive departments of "big box" stores.
> 
> Scratches and gouges may be made more presentable by sanding lightly with 600 grit silicon carbide paper, then 800, then 1000, 1200, 1500. The polish with the plastic polish.
> 
> When done, buff the mouthpiece dry with a clean soft cloth. It won't look like new, but it will look good enough that you won't mind putting it in your mouth and playing.
> 
> Paul C.
>

A minute or two on a buffing wheel.  If I had to polish every hard rubber mouthpiece by hand I wouldn't have time to do anything else.  

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "Mark"  wrote:
>
> Check out the mouthpieces being sold on Ebay by the seller "christopher-elliot-inc".  I come across these mps occasionally and have noticed that in the past few months their vintage hard rubber pieces look really nice.  Polished like new, but with the engraving still bright.  They have either started getting lots of pristine vintage pieces, or figured out some photography trick, or come up with some way of reconditionining pieces.  I can get this look using bronze wool followed by rubbing with a very mild polish, but it takes 30 minutes or more.  I doubt this seller is spending 30 minutes on a piece that will sell for $40.  Some of their pieces are pricey, but some are reasonable and still very nice looking.
> 
> I don't know if they have any really vintage pieces right now, but they've recently had 1930's Buescher and Geo. M. Bundy pieces that looked brand new.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/Saxophone-/16231/i.html?item1067055929&_ssn=christopher-elliott-inc
> 
> --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "tenorman1952"  wrote:
> >
> > 
> > 
> > --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "notabene79"  wrote:
> > >
> > > I have some 50+ year old hard rubber mouthpieces which have leached sulphur and turned brown, the "taste" is something else!  I use a black buffing compound but they never seem to get a new shine to them.  Is there another buffing compound or a technique that might work better?
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > OK, there are a number of things to do to clean up mouthpieces.  Also, there is nothing you can do to make the mouthpiece look "brand new".  So let's just clean it up nicely for the customer.
> > 
> > Use something acidic to remove white calcium deposits.  Vinegar works but the odor is can be absorbed into some materials.  Use lemon juice instead.
> > 
> > To get the "grunge" off the outside, use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to scrub the mouthpiece.  Do this under a stream of water, lukewarm.  That is neither hot nor cold, just room temperature water.  This may or may not get the green or brown oxidation off.  This process will leave the surface dull.  
> > 
> > To fix that, polish the mouthpiece BY HAND, NOT with a buffing wheel.  We want to avoid damaging the facing.  I've seen many mouthpieces buffed on a buffing wheel by unknowning repairmen.  Sure, it gets the mouthpiece shiney, but it rounds off the side and tip rails, ruining the mouthpiece.  Don't do that.  Use a soft cloth and polish by hand.  I use polishes made for plastics, such as Kit Scratchout or a similar product by McGuires.  You can find plastic polish in auto stores or automotive departments of "big box" stores.
> > 
> > Scratches and gouges may be made more presentable by sanding lightly with 600 grit silicon carbide paper, then 800, then 1000, 1200, 1500.  The polish with the plastic polish.
> > 
> > When done, buff the mouthpiece dry with a clean soft cloth.  It won't look like new, but it will look good enough that you won't mind putting it in your mouth and playing.
> > 
> > Paul C.
> >
>

As handy as I am, I do not get along with a buffing wheel.  I probably just need more practice but sending a few mouthpieces across the room discouraged me years ago.  So I only do some hand cosmetic finishing.  But I do not try to sand and polish all the brown away.  Just my file marks.  Too much buffing takes the logos away.

From: Morgan <frymorgan@...>
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2013 2:22 PM
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Buff old rubber mouthpiece

  
A minute or two on a buffing wheel. If I had to polish every hard rubber mouthpiece by hand I wouldn't have time to do anything else. 

--- In mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com, "Mark" wrote:
>
> Check out the mouthpieces being sold on Ebay by the seller "christopher-elliot-inc". I come across these mps occasionally and have noticed that in the past few months their vintage hard rubber pieces look really nice. Polished like new, but with the engraving still bright. They have either started getting lots of pristine vintage pieces, or figured out some photography trick, or come up with some way of reconditionining pieces. I can get this look using bronze wool followed by rubbing with a very mild polish, but it takes 30 minutes or more. I doubt this seller is spending 30 minutes on a piece that will sell for $40. Some of their pieces are pricey, but some are reasonable and still very nice looking.
> 
> I don't know if they have any really vintage pieces right now, but they've recently had 1930's Buescher and Geo. M. Bundy pieces that looked brand new.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/Saxophone-/16231/i.html?item=181067055929&_ssn=christopher-elliott-inc
> 
> --- In mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com, "tenorman1952" wrote:
> >
> > 
> > 
> > --- In mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com, "notabene79" wrote:
> > >
> > > I have some 50+ year old hard rubber mouthpieces which have leached sulphur and turned brown, the "taste" is something else! I use a black buffing compound but they never seem to get a new shine to them. Is there another buffing compound or a technique that might work better?
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > OK, there are a number of things to do to clean up mouthpieces. Also, there is nothing you can do to make the mouthpiece look "brand new". So let's just clean it up nicely for the customer.
> > 
> > Use something acidic to remove white calcium deposits. Vinegar works but the odor is can be absorbed into some materials. Use lemon juice instead.
> > 
> > To get the "grunge" off the outside, use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to scrub the mouthpiece. Do this under a stream of water, lukewarm. That is neither hot nor cold, just room temperature water. This may or may not get the green or brown oxidation off. This process will leave the surface dull. 
> > 
> > To fix that, polish the mouthpiece BY HAND, NOT with a buffing wheel. We want to avoid damaging the facing. I've seen many mouthpieces buffed on a buffing wheel by unknowning repairmen. Sure, it gets the mouthpiece shiney, but it rounds off the side and tip rails, ruining the mouthpiece. Don't do that. Use a soft cloth and polish by hand. I use polishes made for plastics, such as Kit Scratchout or a similar product by McGuires. You can find plastic polish in auto stores or automotive departments of "big box" stores.
> > 
> > Scratches and gouges may be made more presentable by sanding lightly with 600 grit silicon carbide paper, then 800, then 1000, 1200, 1500. The polish with the plastic polish.
> > 
> > When done, buff the mouthpiece dry with a clean soft cloth. It won't look like new, but it will look good enough that you won't mind putting it in your mouth and playing.
> > 
> > Paul C.
> >
>

Whether buffing by hand or wheel, it is to great advantage to have a wooden or metal mandrel that the mouthpiece shank fits onto, for holding it securely.  Then you won't have mouthpieces flying accross the room if using a wheel, and, if polishing by hand, you can use both hands, and put a little weight into it, if needed.



--- On Fri, 1/25/13, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:

From: Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...>
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Buff old rubber mouthpiece
To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Friday, January 25, 2013, 9:38 PM
















 



  


    
      
      
      As handy as I am, I do not get along with a buffing wheel.  I probably just need more practice but sending a few mouthpieces across the room discouraged me years ago.  So I only do some hand cosmetic finishing.  But I do not try to sand and polish all the brown away.  Just my file marks.  Too much buffing takes the logos away.





From: Morgan <frymorgan@...>
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2013 2:22 PM
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Buff old rubber mouthpiece
 

  

A minute or two on a buffing wheel. If I had to polish every hard rubber mouthpiece by hand I wouldn't have time to do anything else. 

--- In mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com, "Mark" wrote:
>
> Check out the mouthpieces being sold on Ebay by the seller "christopher-elliot-inc". I come across these mps occasionally and have noticed that in the past few months their vintage hard rubber pieces look really nice. Polished like new, but with the engraving still bright. They have either started getting lots of pristine vintage pieces, or figured out some photography trick, or come up with some way of reconditionining pieces. I can get this look using bronze wool followed by rubbing with a very mild polish, but it takes 30 minutes or more. I doubt this seller is spending 30 minutes on a piece that will sell for $40. Some of their pieces are pricey, but some are reasonable and still very nice looking.
> 
> I don't know if they have any really vintage pieces right now, but they've recently had 1930's Buescher and Geo. M. Bundy pieces that looked brand new.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/Saxophone-/16231/i.html?item=181067055929&_ssn=christopher-elliott-inc
> 
> --- In mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com, "tenorman1952" wrote:
> >
> > 
> > 
> > --- In mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com, "notabene79" wrote:
> > >
> > > I have some 50+ year old hard rubber mouthpieces which have leached sulphur and turned brown, the "taste" is something else! I use a black buffing compound but they never seem to get a new shine to them. Is there another buffing compound or a technique that might work better?
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > OK, there are a number of things
 to do to clean up mouthpieces. Also, there is nothing you can do to make the mouthpiece look "brand new". So let's just clean it up nicely for the customer.
> > 
> > Use something acidic to remove white calcium deposits. Vinegar works but the odor is can be absorbed into some materials. Use lemon juice instead.
> > 
> > To get the "grunge" off the outside, use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to scrub the mouthpiece. Do this under a stream of water, lukewarm. That is neither hot nor cold, just room temperature water. This may or may not get the green or brown oxidation off. This process will leave the surface dull. 
> > 
> > To fix that, polish the mouthpiece BY HAND, NOT with a buffing wheel. We want to avoid damaging the facing. I've seen many mouthpieces buffed on a buffing wheel by unknowning repairmen. Sure, it gets the mouthpiece shiney, but it rounds off the side and tip rails, ruining the mouthpiece. Don't do that. Use a soft cloth and polish by hand. I use polishes made for plastics, such as Kit Scratchout or a similar product by McGuires. You can find plastic polish in auto stores or automotive departments of "big box" stores.
> > 
> > Scratches and gouges may be made more presentable by sanding lightly with 600 grit silicon carbide paper, then 800, then 1000, 1200, 1500. The polish with the plastic polish.
> > 
> > When done, buff the mouthpiece dry with a clean soft cloth. It won't look like new, but it will look good enough that you won't mind putting it in your mouth and playing.
> > 
> > Paul C.
> >
>



    
     

    
    






  

I have the same problem with buffing wheels. I bent up a frame from a wire coat hanger to support a plastic bag over the wheel.  I can see through it to work and so far it’s caught all my projectiles.

Tony F.

 

From: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com [mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Keith Bradbury
Sent: Saturday, 26 January 2013 8:39 AM
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Buff old rubber mouthpiece

 

  

As handy as I am, I do not get along with a buffing wheel.  I probably just need more practice but sending a few mouthpieces across the room discouraged me years ago.  So I only do some hand cosmetic finishing.  But I do not try to sand and polish all the brown away.  Just my file marks.  Too much buffing takes the logos away.

 

Sounds like too much pressure and maybe compound that cuts too aggressively.  

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury  wrote:
>
> As handy as I am, I do not get along with a buffing wheel.  I probably just need more practice but sending a few mouthpieces across the room discouraged me years ago.  So I only do some hand cosmetic finishing.  But I do not try to sand and polish all the brown away.  Just my file marks.  Too much buffing takes the logos away.
> 
> From: Morgan 
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
> Sent: Friday, January 25, 2013 2:22 PM
> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Buff old rubber mouthpiece
> 
>   
> A minute or two on a buffing wheel. If I had to polish every hard rubber mouthpiece by hand I wouldn't have time to do anything else. 
> 
> --- In mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com, "Mark" wrote:
> >
> > Check out the mouthpieces being sold on Ebay by the seller "christopher-elliot-inc". I come across these mps occasionally and have noticed that in the past few months their vintage hard rubber pieces look really nice. Polished like new, but with the engraving still bright. They have either started getting lots of pristine vintage pieces, or figured out some photography trick, or come up with some way of reconditionining pieces. I can get this look using bronze wool followed by rubbing with a very mild polish, but it takes 30 minutes or more. I doubt this seller is spending 30 minutes on a piece that will sell for $40. Some of their pieces are pricey, but some are reasonable and still very nice looking.
> > 
> > I don't know if they have any really vintage pieces right now, but they've recently had 1930's Buescher and Geo. M. Bundy pieces that looked brand new.
> > 
> > http://www.ebay.com/sch/Saxophone-/16231/i.html?item=181067055929&_ssn=christopher-elliott-inc
> > 
> > --- In mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com, "tenorman1952" wrote:
> > >
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com, "notabene79" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have some 50+ year old hard rubber mouthpieces which have leached sulphur and turned brown, the "taste" is something else! I use a black buffing compound but they never seem to get a new shine to them. Is there another buffing compound or a technique that might work better?
> > > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > OK, there are a number of things to do to clean up mouthpieces. Also, there is nothing you can do to make the mouthpiece look "brand new". So let's just clean it up nicely for the customer.
> > > 
> > > Use something acidic to remove white calcium deposits. Vinegar works but the odor is can be absorbed into some materials. Use lemon juice instead.
> > > 
> > > To get the "grunge" off the outside, use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to scrub the mouthpiece. Do this under a stream of water, lukewarm. That is neither hot nor cold, just room temperature water. This may or may not get the green or brown oxidation off. This process will leave the surface dull. 
> > > 
> > > To fix that, polish the mouthpiece BY HAND, NOT with a buffing wheel. We want to avoid damaging the facing. I've seen many mouthpieces buffed on a buffing wheel by unknowning repairmen. Sure, it gets the mouthpiece shiney, but it rounds off the side and tip rails, ruining the mouthpiece. Don't do that. Use a soft cloth and polish by hand. I use polishes made for plastics, such as Kit Scratchout or a similar product by McGuires. You can find plastic polish in auto stores or automotive departments of "big box" stores.
> > > 
> > > Scratches and gouges may be made more presentable by sanding lightly with 600 grit silicon carbide paper, then 800, then 1000, 1200, 1500. The polish with the plastic polish.
> > > 
> > > When done, buff the mouthpiece dry with a clean soft cloth. It won't look like new, but it will look good enough that you won't mind putting it in your mouth and playing.
> > > 
> > > Paul C.
> > >
> >
>

I asked C. E. and this is his response (shared with permission):

It all depends on the piece... The material it is, the amount of fading, the value of the piece, etc. 

With older valuable pieces we do as little as we can to get the piece to look good. Some have actually come to us looking almost mint so in that case it's easy.

We have a concoction we call MI (my) Shine that we will be selling soon that is a great polisher and mild cleaner, also works great on lacquered instruments but pretty much enhances any finish Other than severely tarnished silver.. Which we use silver cleaner from amway then Cape Cod cleaning clothes and finally MI Shine. 

For faded hard rubber we lightly buff it with very very fine steel or bronze wool or a low speed cloth wheel, but only on the outer body and shaft. Make sure to stay clear of the table, rails and tip.. The smallest alteration can affect the response of the piece... Work very slow and careful and do as little as you can to get the best results. MI shine works wonders on metal plated pieces and plastic.

Ran out of room. MI Shine is non toxic and works great.. Especially on old lacquer, it really brings it to life and the shine lasts about 4-6 months.. It's also great for unfinished saxes, helps deter greening of the brass.

For the inside gunk that you see in some mps, believe it or not but the Dollar Tree brand CLR (lime cleaner) $1 green bottle, works amazing. We spray a little in and use a bristles mp cleaner brush, it takes it right out.. Of course after the final clean the mp is sanitized with alcohol.

Shallow bite marks on the plate can be lightly hand buffed with very very fine wool or bronze wool but on more valuable pieces its sometimes best to just keep them there.. People buying those pieces are more concerned with the total originality of the piece rather than some light scuffs... But on less valuable pieces, it takes some time but it can help reduce them. Hope this was helpful.

If you are committing to use a very very fine bronze wool on a piece to restore the outer appearance, if the logo stamp still has the original gold or white flaking in it, then make sure to stay clear of the logo or use blue painters tape over that area so you don't hit the logo on accident. Again the best is the do as little as possible to get the best results but work very slow.. It can take us 2-4 hours to restore one mouthpiece, but it's so worth it if you love what you do.


- christopher-elliott-inc

I do not see EVER buffing a mouthpiece again with a buffing wheel. Paul Coates' Lemon Juice/ Magic Eraser/ plastic polish steps work so well that a mouthpiece looks almost new. Only deep scratches remain. If I follow up with bee's wax polish, they stay newish looking for a long time. It is not worth the risk of having to pick up the pieces from across the room when the buffer flings it.
http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/MouthpieceWork/message/10339
E v e r e t t F i d l e r

> > >
> > > I have some 50+ year old hard rubber mouthpieces which have leached sulphur and turned brown, the "taste" is something else!  I use a black buffing compound but they never seem to get a new shine to them.  Is there another buffing compound or a technique that might work better?
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > OK, there are a number of things to do to clean up mouthpieces.  Also, there is nothing you can do to make the mouthpiece look "brand new".  So let's just clean it up nicely for the customer.
> > 
> > Use something acidic to remove white calcium deposits.  Vinegar works but the odor is can be absorbed into some materials.  Use lemon juice instead.
> > 
> > To get the "grunge" off the outside, use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to scrub the mouthpiece.  Do this under a stream of water, lukewarm.  That is neither hot nor cold, just room temperature water.  This may or may not get the green or brown oxidation off.  This process will leave the surface dull.  
> > 
> > To fix that, polish the mouthpiece BY HAND, NOT with a buffing wheel.  We want to avoid damaging the facing.  I've seen many mouthpieces buffed on a buffing wheel by unknowning repairmen.  Sure, it gets the mouthpiece shiney, but it rounds off the side and tip rails, ruining the mouthpiece.  Don't do that.  Use a soft cloth and polish by hand.  I use polishes made for plastics, such as Kit Scratchout or a similar product by McGuires.  You can find plastic polish in auto stores or automotive departments of "big box" stores.
> > 
> > Scratches and gouges may be made more presentable by sanding lightly with 600 grit silicon carbide paper, then 800, then 1000, 1200, 1500.  The polish with the plastic polish.
> > 
> > When done, buff the mouthpiece dry with a clean soft cloth.  It won't look like new, but it will look good enough that you won't mind putting it in your mouth and playing.
> > 
> > Paul C.
> >
>