Mouthpiece Work / Silver Solder
FROM: kwbradbury (MojoBari)
SUBJECT: Silver Solder
Has anyone here worked with Silver Solder? I'm planning to try some to fill a tooth gouge in a beat up vintage brass mouthpiece. The large gouge is into the metal before the bite plate starts near the tip. I ordered some "Easy" Silver Solder in sheet form (lower temp, but still >1000 F melting point). For filling, I'm thinking heating the solder to make droplets would work better than heating the brass. Any tips?
FROM: e_a_falcon (Eric Falcon)
SUBJECT: Re: Silver Solder
I have done this type of repair before with great results. My best advice is to work hot and fast. You will have to heat the piece to some degree but making droplets of the silver is a good approach. One thing to keep in mind is that you must lay down quite a bit more silver than you think you will need. You will end up filing and sanding most of it off in the end. Sent from my iPhone On Apr 10, 2012, at 10:14 AM, "MojoBari" <kwbradbury@yahoo.com> wrote: > Has anyone here worked with Silver Solder? I'm planning to try some to fill a tooth gouge in a beat up vintage brass mouthpiece. The large gouge is into the metal before the bite plate starts near the tip. > > I ordered some "Easy" Silver Solder in sheet form (lower temp, but still >1000 F melting point). For filling, I'm thinking heating the solder to make droplets would work better than heating the brass. Any tips? > > > > > TODAY(Beta) • Powered by Yahoo! > The personal cost of birth control battle > Bill Baird's ongoing fight for women's contraception rights began five decades ago. > Privacy Policy
FROM: lancelotburt (MartinMods)
SUBJECT: Re: Silver Solder
The brass must be hot enough to melt the filler metal, or the two won't fuse together, even if the filler is already made a molten droplet by the torch flame. You can make a droplet on top of the cooler brass and then continue to apply heat until they fuse, but the longer the filler metal is heated, the greater chance gas bubbles
will form, leaving imperfections in the surface that you can't file/sand
out. The accepted jeweler's approach is to flux and heat the brass first, then apply the filler metal to the hot surface, allowing it to melt. There is a narrow temp. range just before it flows, where the molten filler has a putty consistency and can be shoved, piled up, and shaped with a solder pick.
Thin brass heats much faster than thicker brass, so be careful of the bite plate area.
Practice on some scrap mouthpiece or brass pieces until you have a feel for what works best.
--- On Tue, 4/10/12, MojoBari <kwbradbury@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: MojoBari <kwbradbury@...>
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Silver Solder
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, April 10, 2012, 2:14 PM
Has anyone here worked with Silver Solder? I'm planning to try some to fill a tooth gouge in a beat up vintage brass mouthpiece. The large gouge is into the metal before the bite plate starts near the tip.
I ordered some "Easy" Silver Solder in sheet form (lower temp, but still >1000 F melting point). For filling, I'm thinking heating the solder to make droplets would work better than heating the brass. Any tips?
FROM: frymorgan (Morgan)
SUBJECT: Re: Silver Solder
As Lance said, you gotta get the piece hot enough to melt the solder or it won't stick. Count on replacing the biteplate after. I hope it isn't a Link, the solder at the seam may start to flow before the silver solder does. Don't ask me how I know ;). --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "MojoBari" <kwbradbury@...> wrote: > > Has anyone here worked with Silver Solder? I'm planning to try some to fill a tooth gouge in a beat up vintage brass mouthpiece. The large gouge is into the metal before the bite plate starts near the tip. > > I ordered some "Easy" Silver Solder in sheet form (lower temp, but still >1000 F melting point). For filling, I'm thinking heating the solder to make droplets would work better than heating the brass. Any tips? >
FROM: lancelotburt (MartinMods)
SUBJECT: Re: Silver Solder
Yeah. Be sure to take the bite plate off first. Don't ask me how I know ;).
--- On Fri, 4/13/12, Morgan <frymorgan@...> wrote:
From: Morgan <frymorgan@...>
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, April 13, 2012, 10:17 AM
As Lance said, you gotta get the piece hot enough to melt the solder or it won't stick. Count on replacing the biteplate after. I hope it isn't a Link, the solder at the seam may start to flow before the silver solder does. Don't ask me how I know ;).
--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "MojoBari" <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
>
> Has anyone here worked with Silver Solder? I'm planning to try some to fill a tooth gouge in a beat up vintage brass mouthpiece. The large gouge is into the metal before the bite plate starts near the tip.
>
> I ordered some "Easy" Silver Solder in sheet form (lower temp, but still >1000 F melting point). For filling, I'm thinking heating the solder to make droplets would work better than heating the brass. Any tips?
>
FROM: kwbradbury (Keith Bradbury)
SUBJECT: Re: Silver Solder
Thanks for the tips guys. The bite plate was already gone. The metal below it is bitten almost through so it was played that way a while by a previous owner. ________________________________ From: MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 5:04 PM Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder Yeah. Be sure to take the bite plate off first. Don't ask me how I know ;). --- On Fri, 4/13/12, Morgan <frymorgan@...> wrote: >From: Morgan <frymorgan@...> >Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder >To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com >Date: Friday, April 13, 2012, 10:17 AM > > > >As Lance said, you gotta get the piece hot enough to melt the solder or it won't stick. Count on replacing the biteplate after. I hope it isn't a Link, the solder at the seam may start to flow before the silver solder does. Don't ask me how I know ;). > >--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "MojoBari" <kwbradbury@...> wrote: >> >> Has anyone here worked with Silver Solder? I'm planning to try some to fill a tooth gouge in a beat up vintage brass mouthpiece. The large gouge is into the metal before the bite plate starts near the tip. >> >> I ordered some "Easy" Silver Solder in sheet form (lower temp, but still >1000 F melting point). For filling, I'm thinking heating the solder to make droplets would work better than heating the brass. Any tips? >> > >
FROM: kevinelliott (kevinelliott)
SUBJECT: Re: Silver Solder
Did the previous owner star in James Bond films? --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote: > > Thanks for the tips guys.  The bite plate was already gone. The metal below it is bitten almost through so it was played that way a while by a previous owner. > >
FROM: lancelotburt (MartinMods)
SUBJECT: Re: Silver Solder
If it's the thin brass under the bite plate you are repairing, you'll want to keep the flame tip moving around the whole bite plate area while heating. The thinner the metal, the faster it will get hot. You don't want the tooth mark to melt through before the metal around it gets hot enough fuse with the filler.
While silver alloy filler is insanely expensive at your local welding supply, a very good flux is quite cheap - Harris, Stay-Silv White Brazing Flux. I get much better results with this than plain borax.
--- On Sat, 4/14/12, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
From: Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...>
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder
To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Saturday, April 14, 2012, 11:59 AM
Thanks for the tips guys. The bite plate was already gone. The metal below it is bitten almost through so it was played that way a while by a previous owner.
From: MartinMods <lancelotburt@...>
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder
Yeah. Be sure to take the bite plate off first. Don't ask me how I know ;).
--- On Fri, 4/13/12, Morgan <frymorgan@...> wrote:
From: Morgan <frymorgan@...>
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, April 13, 2012, 10:17 AM
As Lance said, you gotta get the piece hot enough to melt the solder or it won't stick. Count on replacing the biteplate after. I hope it isn't a Link, the solder at the seam may start to flow before the silver solder does. Don't ask me how I know ;).
--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "MojoBari" <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
>
> Has anyone here worked with Silver Solder? I'm planning to try some to fill a tooth gouge in a beat up vintage brass mouthpiece. The large gouge is into the metal before the bite plate starts near the tip.
>
> I ordered some "Easy" Silver Solder in sheet form (lower temp, but still >1000 F melting point). For filling, I'm thinking heating the solder to make droplets would work better than heating the brass. Any tips?
>
FROM: kwbradbury (MojoBari)
SUBJECT: Re: Silver Solder
I got some of your recommended flux in. Looks much better than the liquid stuff I was trying to use. After a couple practice attempts on scrap brass, I think I'm not getting hot enough. I was trying to use a propane air torch I had on hand, thinking the flame temp was 3000 F from memory. I now see with air it is more like 2000 F. Tough to bring a lump off brass up to 1100+ F fast (or at all) with a 2000 F flame. So.... What is the cheapest upgrade I can invest in to get a hot enough flame? --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote: > > If it's the thin brass under the bite plate you are repairing, you'll want to keep the flame tip moving around the whole bite plate area while heating. The thinner the metal, the faster it will get hot. You don't want the tooth mark to melt through before the metal around it gets hot enough fuse with the filler. > > While silver alloy filler is insanely expensive at your local welding supply, a very good flux is quite cheap - Harris, Stay-Silv White Brazing Flux. I get much better results with this than plain borax. > > > > --- On Sat, 4/14/12, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote: > > From: Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> > Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder > To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> > Date: Saturday, April 14, 2012, 11:59 AM > > > > > > > > >  > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for the tips guys.  The bite plate was already gone. The metal below it is bitten almost through so it was played that way a while by a previous owner. > > > > > > From: MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 5:04 PM > Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder > > >  > > > > > > Yeah. Be sure to take the bite plate off first. Don't ask me how I know ;). > > > > --- On Fri, 4/13/12, Morgan <frymorgan@...> wrote: > > > From: Morgan <frymorgan@...> > Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com > Date: Friday, April 13, 2012, 10:17 AM > > > >  > > As Lance said, you gotta get the piece hot enough to melt the solder or it won't stick. Count on replacing the biteplate after. I hope it isn't a Link, the solder at the seam may start to flow before the silver solder does. Don't ask me how I know ;). > > --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "MojoBari" <kwbradbury@> wrote: > > > > Has anyone here worked with Silver Solder? I'm planning to try some to fill a tooth gouge in a beat up vintage brass mouthpiece. The large gouge is into the metal before the bite plate starts near the tip. > > > > I ordered some "Easy" Silver Solder in sheet form (lower temp, but still >1000 F melting point). For filling, I'm thinking heating the solder to make droplets would work better than heating the brass. Any tips? > > >
FROM: sunny_stutzman (Sunny Stutzman)
SUBJECT: Re: Silver Solder
MAPP gas is hotter and still comes in a pretty cheap form. (Just like propane setup…) I haven't used it for soldering as I have an oxy/acetylene setup, but I think it burns at around 3000 F. -Sunny On Apr 30, 2012, at 5:42 PM, MojoBari wrote: > I got some of your recommended flux in. Looks much better than the liquid stuff I was trying to use. > > After a couple practice attempts on scrap brass, I think I'm not getting hot enough. I was trying to use a propane air torch I had on hand, thinking the flame temp was 3000 F from memory. I now see with air it is more like 2000 F. Tough to bring a lump off brass up to 1100+ F fast (or at all) with a 2000 F flame. > > So.... What is the cheapest upgrade I can invest in to get a hot enough flame? > > --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote: > > > > If it's the thin brass under the bite plate you are repairing, you'll want to keep the flame tip moving around the whole bite plate area while heating. The thinner the metal, the faster it will get hot. You don't want the tooth mark to melt through before the metal around it gets hot enough fuse with the filler. > > > > While silver alloy filler is insanely expensive at your local welding supply, a very good flux is quite cheap - Harris, Stay-Silv White Brazing Flux. I get much better results with this than plain borax. > > > > > > > > --- On Sat, 4/14/12, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote: > > > > From: Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> > > Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder > > To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> > > Date: Saturday, April 14, 2012, 11:59 AM > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >  > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for the tips guys.  The bite plate was already gone. The metal below it is bitten almost through so it was played that way a while by a previous owner. > > > > > > > > > > > > From: MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> > > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 5:04 PM > > Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder > > > > > >  > > > > > > > > > > > > Yeah. Be sure to take the bite plate off first. Don't ask me how I know ;). > > > > > > > > --- On Fri, 4/13/12, Morgan <frymorgan@...> wrote: > > > > > > From: Morgan <frymorgan@...> > > Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder > > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com > > Date: Friday, April 13, 2012, 10:17 AM > > > > > > > >  > > > > As Lance said, you gotta get the piece hot enough to melt the solder or it won't stick. Count on replacing the biteplate after. I hope it isn't a Link, the solder at the seam may start to flow before the silver solder does. Don't ask me how I know ;). > > > > --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "MojoBari" <kwbradbury@> wrote: > > > > > > Has anyone here worked with Silver Solder? I'm planning to try some to fill a tooth gouge in a beat up vintage brass mouthpiece. The large gouge is into the metal before the bite plate starts near the tip. > > > > > > I ordered some "Easy" Silver Solder in sheet form (lower temp, but still >1000 F melting point). For filling, I'm thinking heating the solder to make droplets would work better than heating the brass. Any tips? > > > > > > >
FROM: kwbradbury (Keith Bradbury)
SUBJECT: Re: Silver Solder
I think I need to use Fuel-O2 to get hot enough. On Apr 30, 2012, at 7:39 PM, Sunny Stutzman <sunnystutzman@...> wrote: > MAPP gas is hotter and still comes in a pretty cheap form. (Just like propane setup…) I haven't used it for soldering as I have an oxy/acetylene setup, but I think it burns at around 3000 F. > > > -Sunny > > > On Apr 30, 2012, at 5:42 PM, MojoBari wrote: > >> >> I got some of your recommended flux in. Looks much better than the liquid stuff I was trying to use. >> >> After a couple practice attempts on scrap brass, I think I'm not getting hot enough. I was trying to use a propane air torch I had on hand, thinking the flame temp was 3000 F from memory. I now see with air it is more like 2000 F. Tough to bring a lump off brass up to 1100+ F fast (or at all) with a 2000 F flame. >> >> So.... What is the cheapest upgrade I can invest in to get a hot enough flame? >> >> --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote: >> > >> > If it's the thin brass under the bite plate you are repairing, you'll want to keep the flame tip moving around the whole bite plate area while heating. The thinner the metal, the faster it will get hot. You don't want the tooth mark to melt through before the metal around it gets hot enough fuse with the filler. >> > >> > While silver alloy filler is insanely expensive at your local welding supply, a very good flux is quite cheap - Harris, Stay-Silv White Brazing Flux. I get much better results with this than plain borax. >> > >> > >> > >> > --- On Sat, 4/14/12, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote: >> > >> > From: Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> >> > Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder >> > To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> >> > Date: Saturday, April 14, 2012, 11:59 AM >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >  >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > Thanks for the tips guys.  The bite plate was already gone. The metal below it is bitten almost through so it was played that way a while by a previous owner. >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > From: MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> >> > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com >> > Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 5:04 PM >> > Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder >> > >> > >> >  >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > Yeah. Be sure to take the bite plate off first. Don't ask me how I know ;). >> > >> > >> > >> > --- On Fri, 4/13/12, Morgan <frymorgan@...> wrote: >> > >> > >> > From: Morgan <frymorgan@...> >> > Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder >> > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com >> > Date: Friday, April 13, 2012, 10:17 AM >> > >> > >> > >> >  >> > >> > As Lance said, you gotta get the piece hot enough to melt the solder or it won't stick. Count on replacing the biteplate after. I hope it isn't a Link, the solder at the seam may start to flow before the silver solder does. Don't ask me how I know ;). >> > >> > --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "MojoBari" <kwbradbury@> wrote: >> > > >> > > Has anyone here worked with Silver Solder? I'm planning to try some to fill a tooth gouge in a beat up vintage brass mouthpiece. The large gouge is into the metal before the bite plate starts near the tip. >> > > >> > > I ordered some "Easy" Silver Solder in sheet form (lower temp, but still >1000 F melting point). For filling, I'm thinking heating the solder to make droplets would work better than heating the brass. Any tips? >> > > >> > >> > >
FROM: lancelotburt (MartinMods)
SUBJECT: Re: Silver Solder
While I have a small propane/o2 (with adapted 20cf o2 tank) rig, most of the time I use a consumer, Bernzomatic TS-8000 propane/air torch (Home Depot) because it's easier/quicker. It has the largest nozzle available (short of a weed burner) and heats really fast. I use that to braze the throat tube that inserted 1" into that massive Gale bari piece body. After a minute or so, the huge hunk of brass was glowing red, and the silver filler filled every space between the two pieces neatly, over the entire inserted length.
--- On Mon, 4/30/12, MojoBari <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
From: MojoBari <kwbradbury@...>
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, April 30, 2012, 9:42 PM
I got some of your recommended flux in. Looks much better than the liquid stuff I was trying to use.
After a couple practice attempts on scrap brass, I think I'm not getting hot enough. I was trying to use a propane air torch I had on hand, thinking the flame temp was 3000 F from memory. I now see with air it is more like 2000 F. Tough to bring a lump off brass up to 1100+ F fast (or at all) with a 2000 F flame.
So.... What is the cheapest upgrade I can invest in to get a hot enough flame?
--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote:
>
> If it's the thin brass under the bite plate you are repairing, you'll want to keep the flame tip moving around the whole bite plate area while heating. The thinner the metal, the faster it will get hot. You don't want the tooth mark to melt through before the metal around it gets hot enough fuse with the filler.Â
>
> While silver alloy filler is insanely expensive at your local welding supply, a very good flux is quite cheap - Harris, Stay-Silv White Brazing Flux. I get much better results with this than plain borax.Â
>
>
>
> --- On Sat, 4/14/12, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
>
> From: Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...>
> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder
> To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Saturday, April 14, 2012, 11:59 AM
>
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> Thanks for the tips guys.  The bite plate was already gone. The metal below it is bitten almost through so it was played that way a while by a previous owner.
>
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> From: MartinMods <lancelotburt@...>
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 5:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder
>
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> Yeah. Be sure to take the bite plate off first. Don't ask me how I know ;).
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> --- On Fri, 4/13/12, Morgan <frymorgan@...> wrote:
>
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> From: Morgan <frymorgan@...>
> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Friday, April 13, 2012, 10:17 AM
>
>
>
> Â
>
> As Lance said, you gotta get the piece hot enough to melt the solder or it won't stick. Count on replacing the biteplate after. I hope it isn't a Link, the solder at the seam may start to flow before the silver solder does. Don't ask me how I know ;).
>
> --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "MojoBari" <kwbradbury@> wrote:
> >
> > Has anyone here worked with Silver Solder? I'm planning to try some to fill a tooth gouge in a beat up vintage brass mouthpiece. The large gouge is into the metal before the bite plate starts near the tip.
> >
> > I ordered some "Easy" Silver Solder in sheet form (lower temp, but still >1000 F melting point). For filling, I'm thinking heating the solder to make droplets would work better than heating the brass. Any tips?
> >
>
FROM: kwbradbury (Keith Bradbury)
SUBJECT: Re: Silver Solder
I'll try the TS8000BT next. It does look convenient. Thanks. I think my Propane torch is from the 50's and may be not so hot anymore. On Apr 30, 2012, at 8:48 PM, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote: > While I have a small propane/o2 (with adapted 20cf o2 tank) rig, most of the time I use a consumer, Bernzomatic TS-8000 propane/air torch (Home Depot) because it's easier/quicker. It has the largest nozzle available (short of a weed burner) and heats really fast. I use that to braze the throat tube that inserted 1" into that massive Gale bari piece body. After a minute or so, the huge hunk of brass was glowing red, and the silver filler filled every space between the two pieces neatly, over the entire inserted length. > > --- On Mon, 4/30/12, MojoBari <kwbradbury@...> wrote: > > From: MojoBari <kwbradbury@...> > Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com > Date: Monday, April 30, 2012, 9:42 PM > > > I got some of your recommended flux in. Looks much better than the liquid stuff I was trying to use. > > After a couple practice attempts on scrap brass, I think I'm not getting hot enough. I was trying to use a propane air torch I had on hand, thinking the flame temp was 3000 F from memory. I now see with air it is more like 2000 F. Tough to bring a lump off brass up to 1100+ F fast (or at all) with a 2000 F flame. > > So.... What is the cheapest upgrade I can invest in to get a hot enough flame? > > --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote: > > > > If it's the thin brass under the bite plate you are repairing, you'll want to keep the flame tip moving around the whole bite plate area while heating. The thinner the metal, the faster it will get hot. You don't want the tooth mark to melt through before the metal around it gets hot enough fuse with the filler. > > > > While silver alloy filler is insanely expensive at your local welding supply, a very good flux is quite cheap - Harris, Stay-Silv White Brazing Flux. I get much better results with this than plain borax. > > > > > > > > --- On Sat, 4/14/12, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote: > > > > From: Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> > > Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder > > To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> > > Date: Saturday, April 14, 2012, 11:59 AM > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >  > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for the tips guys.  The bite plate was already gone. The metal below it is bitten almost through so it was played that way a while by a previous owner. > > > > > > > > > > > > From: MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> > > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 5:04 PM > > Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder > > > > > >  > > > > > > > > > > > > Yeah. Be sure to take the bite plate off first. Don't ask me how I know ;). > > > > > > > > --- On Fri, 4/13/12, Morgan <frymorgan@...> wrote: > > > > > > From: Morgan <frymorgan@...> > > Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder > > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com > > Date: Friday, April 13, 2012, 10:17 AM > > > > > > > >  > > > > As Lance said, you gotta get the piece hot enough to melt the solder or it won't stick. Count on replacing the biteplate after. I hope it isn't a Link, the solder at the seam may start to flow before the silver solder does. Don't ask me how I know ;). > > > > --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "MojoBari" <kwbradbury@> wrote: > > > > > > Has anyone here worked with Silver Solder? I'm planning to try some to fill a tooth gouge in a beat up vintage brass mouthpiece. The large gouge is into the metal before the bite plate starts near the tip. > > > > > > I ordered some "Easy" Silver Solder in sheet form (lower temp, but still >1000 F melting point). For filling, I'm thinking heating the solder to make droplets would work better than heating the brass. Any tips? > > > > > > >
FROM: lancelotburt (MartinMods)
SUBJECT: Re: Silver Solder
Depending on what I'm working on, I may put up a fire brick as a wall behind the work to reflect heat, and even line that and the base brick with mineral/ceramic wool, to reduce heat dissipation. It's not only how hot the flame is, but how quickly heat dissipates during the process. You can melt a lot of brass with a propane burner, provided it is insulated sufficiently.
--- On Tue, 5/1/12, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
From: Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...>
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder
To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, May 1, 2012, 10:29 PM
I'll try the TS8000BT next. It does look convenient. Thanks. I think my Propane torch is from the 50's and may be not so hot anymore.
On Apr 30, 2012, at 8:48 PM, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote:
While I have a small propane/o2 (with adapted 20cf o2 tank) rig, most of the time I use a consumer, Bernzomatic TS-8000 propane/air torch (Home Depot) because it's easier/quicker. It has the largest nozzle available (short of a weed burner) and heats really fast. I use that to braze the throat tube that inserted 1" into that massive Gale bari piece body. After a minute or so, the huge hunk of brass was glowing red, and the silver filler filled every space between the two pieces neatly, over the entire inserted length.
--- On Mon, 4/30/12, MojoBari <kwbradbury@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: MojoBari <kwbradbury@...>
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Date:
Monday, April 30, 2012, 9:42 PM
I got some of your recommended flux in. Looks much better than the liquid stuff I was trying to use.
After a couple practice attempts on scrap brass, I think I'm not getting hot enough. I was trying to use a propane air torch I had on hand, thinking the flame temp was 3000 F from memory. I now see with air it is more like 2000 F. Tough to bring a lump off brass up to 1100+ F fast (or at all) with a 2000 F flame.
So.... What is the cheapest upgrade I can invest in to get a hot enough flame?
--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote:
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> If it's the thin brass under the bite plate you are repairing, you'll want to keep the flame tip moving around the whole bite plate area while heating. The thinner the metal, the faster it will get hot. You don't want the tooth mark to melt through before the metal around it gets hot enough fuse with the filler.Â
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> While silver alloy filler is insanely expensive at your local welding supply, a very good flux is quite cheap - Harris, Stay-Silv White Brazing Flux. I get much better results with this than plain borax.Â
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> --- On Sat, 4/14/12, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
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> From: Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...>
> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder
> To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Saturday, April 14, 2012, 11:59 AM
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> Thanks for the tips guys.  The bite plate was already gone. The metal below it is bitten almost through so it was played that way a while by a previous owner.
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> From: MartinMods <lancelotburt@...>
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 5:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder
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> Yeah. Be sure to take the bite plate off first. Don't ask me how I know ;).
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> --- On Fri, 4/13/12, Morgan <frymorgan@...> wrote:
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> From: Morgan <frymorgan@...>
> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Silver Solder
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Friday, April 13, 2012, 10:17 AM
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> As Lance said, you gotta get the piece hot enough to melt the solder or it won't stick. Count on replacing the biteplate after. I hope it isn't a Link, the solder at the seam may start to flow before the silver solder does. Don't ask me how I know ;).
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> --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "MojoBari" <kwbradbury@> wrote:
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> > Has anyone here worked with Silver Solder? I'm planning to try some to fill a tooth gouge in a beat up vintage brass mouthpiece. The large gouge is into the metal before the bite plate starts near the tip.
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> > I ordered some "Easy" Silver Solder in sheet form (lower temp, but still >1000 F melting point). For filling, I'm thinking heating the solder to make droplets would work better than heating the brass. Any tips?
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