Hey all,

I'd like to experiment with extending the roll over baffle (and thereby filling the "lake") in a HR Link that I have. Right now it is a really short medium-height roll over baffle and I'd like to extend it to twice it's current length to more smoothly transition down into the floor and hopefully add a little projection too, which seems to be lacking in its current state. I got the chance to play on one of the new "Early Babbit Remakes" they had at a demo booth recently, and it played great! A really nice mpc. It had a roll over baffle that was probably around twice the length of the one in my standard HR Link, and it was a little more pronounced of a baffle as well, and I really liked it. I want to try and add a little material to my own HR Link to try and copy the baffle style of that "EB Remake" mpc a little bit to see what it would turn out like.

I've noticed that people seem to either use a plumber's putty type of epoxy for adding baffles, or sometimes I've noticed that Mojo uses Apoxie Sculpt for his baffles in HR mpcs. I do like the fact that you'd have a lot more working time with the Apoxie Sculpt before it fully hardens, but right now I have some black colored plumber's epoxy putty on hand and figure I might just give that a shot this weekend instead. Any reason I shouldn't use this stuff? It is pretty normal plumber's putty epoxy, the "Rectorseal" brand from Home Depot, which is supposed to set in several minutes and cure within an hour. 

Thanks for the advice. 

Matt

It should work fine.




________________________________
From: Matt <mattmarantz86@...>
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, January 28, 2011 11:15:04 PM
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Curious about the baffle differences between plumber's 
putty and Apoxie Sculpt

  
Hey all,

I'd like to experiment with extending the roll over baffle (and thereby filling 
the "lake") in a HR Link that I have. Right now it is a really short 
medium-height roll over baffle and I'd like to extend it to twice it's current 
length to more smoothly transition down into the floor and hopefully add a 
little projection too, which seems to be lacking in its current state. I got the 
chance to play on one of the new "Early Babbit Remakes" they had at a demo booth 
recently, and it played great! A really nice mpc. It had a roll over baffle that 
was probably around twice the length of the one in my standard HR Link, and it 
was a little more pronounced of a baffle as well, and I really liked it. I want 
to try and add a little material to my own HR Link to try and copy the baffle 
style of that "EB Remake" mpc a little bit to see what it would turn out like.

I've noticed that people seem to either use a plumber's putty type of epoxy for 
adding baffles, or sometimes I've noticed that Mojo uses Apoxie Sculpt for his 
baffles in HR mpcs. I do like the fact that you'd have a lot more working time 
with the Apoxie Sculpt before it fully hardens, but right now I have some black 
colored plumber's epoxy putty on hand and figure I might just give that a shot 
this weekend instead. Any reason I shouldn't use this stuff? It is pretty normal 
plumber's putty epoxy, the "Rectorseal" brand from Home Depot, which is supposed 
to set in several minutes and cure within an hour. 


Thanks for the advice. 

Matt





      

Thank you very much Mojo, sounds good. 

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
>
> It should work fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Matt <mattmarantz86@...>
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Fri, January 28, 2011 11:15:04 PM
> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Curious about the baffle differences between plumber's 
> putty and Apoxie Sculpt
> 
>   
> Hey all,
> 
> I'd like to experiment with extending the roll over baffle (and thereby filling 
> the "lake") in a HR Link that I have. Right now it is a really short 
> medium-height roll over baffle and I'd like to extend it to twice it's current 
> length to more smoothly transition down into the floor and hopefully add a 
> little projection too, which seems to be lacking in its current state. I got the 
> chance to play on one of the new "Early Babbit Remakes" they had at a demo booth 
> recently, and it played great! A really nice mpc. It had a roll over baffle that 
> was probably around twice the length of the one in my standard HR Link, and it 
> was a little more pronounced of a baffle as well, and I really liked it. I want 
> to try and add a little material to my own HR Link to try and copy the baffle 
> style of that "EB Remake" mpc a little bit to see what it would turn out like.
> 
> I've noticed that people seem to either use a plumber's putty type of epoxy for 
> adding baffles, or sometimes I've noticed that Mojo uses Apoxie Sculpt for his 
> baffles in HR mpcs. I do like the fact that you'd have a lot more working time 
> with the Apoxie Sculpt before it fully hardens, but right now I have some black 
> colored plumber's epoxy putty on hand and figure I might just give that a shot 
> this weekend instead. Any reason I shouldn't use this stuff? It is pretty normal 
> plumber's putty epoxy, the "Rectorseal" brand from Home Depot, which is supposed 
> to set in several minutes and cure within an hour. 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice. 
> 
> Matt
>