Hi everybody
I'm new to the forum (thank you Keith for letting me in!) and new to the mpc work world. I am just a player willing to understand more about the tools of my trade and maybe get some information on how to tamper with some cheap plastic pieces I have here. I saw the files directory of the group, I've read the basic stuff about mouthpieces but beyond that... I'm simply overwhelmed and don't know where to start. As a "padawan" I'm looking for advice of a patient MPC Jedi out there who could dedicate a minute to write me (maybe there are other newbies here?) and suggesting some introductory readings, covering the basics and bridging the gap between theory and pratice. It would be very kind! Furthermore, I'll check the things for myself, I really don't wanna be a pain with "padawanesque" questions. Any guidance will be much appreciated. May the force be with you.

Regards,
Paulo




      

see our mouthpiece refacing video at www.nationofmusic.com     there's  
a preview there so you can see what it's about



On Aug 21, 2010, at 7:42 PM, pascal wrote:

>
> Hi everybody
> I'm new to the forum (thank you Keith for letting me in!) and new to  
> the mpc work world. I am just a player willing to understand more  
> about the tools of my trade and maybe get some information on how to  
> tamper with some cheap plastic pieces I have here. I saw the files  
> directory of the group, I've read the basic stuff about mouthpieces  
> but beyond that... I'm simply overwhelmed and don't know where to  
> start. As a "padawan" I'm looking for advice of a patient MPC Jedi  
> out there who could dedicate a minute to write me (maybe there are  
> other newbies here?) and suggesting some introductory readings,  
> covering the basics and bridging the gap between theory and pratice.  
> It would be very kind! Furthermore, I'll check the things for  
> myself, I really don't wanna be a pain with "padawanesque"  
> questions. Any guidance will be much appreciated. May the force be  
> with you.
>
> Regards,
> Paulo
>
>
>
> 

Here's the practical guide:
http://www.raganato.altervista.org/files/Kit%20Demo.pdf

it's in English too
e.

--- Dom 22/8/10, STEVE GOODSON <saxgourmet@...> ha scritto:

Da: STEVE GOODSON <saxgourmet@...>
Oggetto: Re: [MouthpieceWork] MPC for dummies
A: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Data: Domenica 22 agosto 2010, 02:44







 



  


    
      
      
      see our mouthpiece refacing video at www.nationofmusic.com     there's a preview there so you can see what it's about 


On Aug 21, 2010, at 7:42 PM, pascal wrote:

Hi everybody
I'm new to the forum (thank you Keith for letting me in!) and new to the mpc work world. I am just a player willing to understand more about the tools of my trade and maybe get some information on how to tamper with some cheap plastic pieces I have here. I saw the files directory of the group, I've read the basic stuff about mouthpieces but beyond that... I'm simply overwhelmed and don't know where to start. As a "padawan" I'm looking for advice of a patient MPC Jedi out there who could dedicate a minute to write me (maybe there are other newbies here?) and suggesting some introductory readings, covering the basics and bridging the gap between theory and pratice. It would be very kind! Furthermore, I'll check the things for myself, I really don't wanna be a pain with "padawanesque" questions. Any guidance will be much appreciated. May the force be with you.

Regards,
Paulo






    
     

    
    


 



  






      

Your guide does not appear to have any gauges (glss, feelers, tip).  Do your methods include how to use these?


--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, emanuele raganato <emanuelerag@...> wrote:
>
> Here's the practical guide:
> http://www.raganato.altervista.org/files/Kit%20Demo.pdf
> 
> it's in English too
> e.
> 
>

no, if someone want to work with specific tools has to buy them from you ;) 
I work with your feelers etc, but to learn first things my kit it's enough I think. I'd like to sell a complete kit with many tools, but at the moment is not possible. If someone is interested I sell blanks for tenor (8,00 euro). They are white and finished with 0,00 " opening. You have just to do a facing.

--- Mar 24/8/10, MojoBari <kwbradbury@...> ha scritto:

Da: MojoBari <kwbradbury@...>
Oggetto: [MouthpieceWork] Re: MPC for dummies
A: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Data: Martedì 24 agosto 2010, 17:32







 



  


    
      
      
      Your guide does not appear to have any gauges (glss, feelers, tip).  Do your methods include how to use these?



--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, emanuele raganato <emanuelerag@...> wrote:

>

> Here's the practical guide:

> http://www.raganato.altervista.org/files/Kit%20Demo.pdf

> 

> it's in English too

> e.

> 

>





    
     

    
    


 



  






      

Welcome to the forum. A great place to start is the files section which includes a bunch of info written by Mojo and others. Mojo posted a great Powerpoint tutorial about this stuff with pictures that's really nice. There's lots of info in the pictures section too about how to measure stuff/etc. If you're wanting to learn to do it, it helps to get some good gauges and just start measuring/analyzing different mouthpiece curves and try to determine why certain mouthpieces play really well vs. why certain other mouthpieces don't play well. You can find a lot of useful info here on this forum, as well as the mouthpiece refacing section on the Sax on The Web forum about facing lengths, curve choices, baffle profiles, chamber shapes, etc. A really good thing to have is also a mouthpiece tip gauge. I've found the dial tip gauge from PM Woodwind to be a useful tool, although the end of the dial tip indicator is pretty blunt and kind of hard to work with. Theo Wanne sells an attachment for dial tip indicators called the "accurate tip" which may make measuring with one of these tools more reliable with more repeatable results. I've not tested the Wanne add-on tip, but am planning to if I can get around to measuring the thread on my PM Woodwind gauge soon. The LAW glass gauge and the Mojo feeler gauges are really good,  well made tools. I've found the "Meyer" curve spreadsheet in the "Files" section of this forum to be a good curve-generator for alto mouthpieces. I've found facing lengths of 42 (21mm) for alto, and 48 (24mm) to 50 (25mm) for tenor to be really good places to start with for facing lengths on those instruments. I've also found that standard mouthpieces like Selmer C* pieces can be made into nice playing jazz mouthpieces that you can learn the craft on (some of us have these lying around, I know I had a couple). My best advice is not to work on nice mouthpieces or blanks until you feel you're ready. Sometimes when I was first starting out, I'd try to work on mouthpieces that I probably should've waited to work on (Zinner blanks, Links, etc.), and wound up destroying them ha. This can be a really, really fun and rewarding thing to get into, but if you can find some really cheap blanks or a collection of old, cruddy mouthpieces somewhere, it might be best to start with those. I don't know about everyone else, but I've found that sometimes it's something as simple as a matter of what order you try to do things in that determines whether or not a project goes well or not. Mojo has a list of the general order he does things in posted somewhere in the files section here. One little thing I've found helpful is that when you're trying to finish up a project and you begin to thin the tip rail and the side rails to your desired lengths, try to make sure you've already done all of the outside shaping that you're planning to do (where you match the tip and table profiles to match a reed shape) *before* you begin to finish thinning the tip and side rails to your desired finished preferences. Otherwise, sometimes you can end up thinning the tip rail or side rails too much and there won't be enough material left for the reed to vibrate again properly. I know I ran into that problem. I've found 400 and 600 grit sandpaper to be good for working with rubber mouthpieces, and steel wool is a great tool to use to put a finished surface onto your mouthpiece inside and outside after a project has been finish sanded. Good files are a must - cheap files from Home Depot are OK to start out with, but Grobet Valtitan Swiss needle files (usually in the "0" or sometimes the extra coarse "00" cuts) are so much better that it's almost not worth buying the cheap files in the first place. Plus they're only like $11-$13 a piece plus shipping or something like that depending on where you get them. I've found that I really only need the half-round needle files for most basic things. Hope you enjoy it, and take care,

Matt

Matt

Matt

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, pascal <night000cruiser@...> wrote:
>
> Hi everybody
> I'm new to the forum (thank you Keith for letting me in!) and new to the mpc work world. I am just a player willing to understand more about the tools of my trade and maybe get some information on how to tamper with some cheap plastic pieces I have here. I saw the files directory of the group, I've read the basic stuff about mouthpieces but beyond that... I'm simply overwhelmed and don't know where to start. As a "padawan" I'm looking for advice of a patient MPC Jedi out there who could dedicate a minute to write me (maybe there are other newbies here?) and suggesting some introductory readings, covering the basics and bridging the gap between theory and pratice. It would be very kind! Furthermore, I'll check the things for myself, I really don't wanna be a pain with "padawanesque" questions. Any guidance will be much appreciated. May the force be with you.
> 
> Regards,
> Paulo
>

Hey Matt!
This was actually the kind of advice I was waiting for! Very generous of you! Very enlightening and logical. Thank you very much! 

--- On Tue, 8/24/10, mattmarantz86 <mattmarantz86@...> wrote:

From: mattmarantz86 <mattmarantz86@...>
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: MPC for dummies
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 24, 2010, 10:40 PM







 



  


    
      
      
      Welcome to the forum. A great place to start is the files section which includes a bunch of info written by Mojo and others. Mojo posted a great Powerpoint tutorial about this stuff with pictures that's really nice. There's lots of info in the pictures section too about how to measure stuff/etc. If you're wanting to learn to do it, it helps to get some good gauges and just start measuring/analyzing different mouthpiece curves and try to determine why certain mouthpieces play really well vs. why certain other mouthpieces don't play well. You can find a lot of useful info here on this forum, as well as the mouthpiece refacing section on the Sax on The Web forum about facing lengths, curve choices, baffle profiles, chamber shapes, etc. A really good thing to have is also a mouthpiece tip gauge. I've found the dial tip gauge from PM Woodwind to be a useful tool, although the end of the dial tip indicator is pretty blunt and kind of hard to work with.
 Theo Wanne sells an attachment for dial tip indicators called the "accurate tip" which may make measuring with one of these tools more reliable with more repeatable results. I've not tested the Wanne add-on tip, but am planning to if I can get around to measuring the thread on my PM Woodwind gauge soon. The LAW glass gauge and the Mojo feeler gauges are really good,  well made tools. I've found the "Meyer" curve spreadsheet in the "Files" section of this forum to be a good curve-generator for alto mouthpieces. I've found facing lengths of 42 (21mm) for alto, and 48 (24mm) to 50 (25mm) for tenor to be really good places to start with for facing lengths on those instruments. I've also found that standard mouthpieces like Selmer C* pieces can be made into nice playing jazz mouthpieces that you can learn the craft on (some of us have these lying around, I know I had a couple). My best advice is not to work on nice mouthpieces or blanks until you feel you're
 ready. Sometimes when I was first starting out, I'd try to work on mouthpieces that I probably should've waited to work on (Zinner blanks, Links, etc.), and wound up destroying them ha. This can be a really, really fun and rewarding thing to get into, but if you can find some really cheap blanks or a collection of old, cruddy mouthpieces somewhere, it might be best to start with those. I don't know about everyone else, but I've found that sometimes it's something as simple as a matter of what order you try to do things in that determines whether or not a project goes well or not. Mojo has a list of the general order he does things in posted somewhere in the files section here. One little thing I've found helpful is that when you're trying to finish up a project and you begin to thin the tip rail and the side rails to your desired lengths, try to make sure you've already done all of the outside shaping that you're planning to do (where you match the tip
 and table profiles to match a reed shape) *before* you begin to finish thinning the tip and side rails to your desired finished preferences. Otherwise, sometimes you can end up thinning the tip rail or side rails too much and there won't be enough material left for the reed to vibrate again properly. I know I ran into that problem. I've found 400 and 600 grit sandpaper to be good for working with rubber mouthpieces, and steel wool is a great tool to use to put a finished surface onto your mouthpiece inside and outside after a project has been finish sanded. Good files are a must - cheap files from Home Depot are OK to start out with, but Grobet Valtitan Swiss needle files (usually in the "0" or sometimes the extra coarse "00" cuts) are so much better that it's almost not worth buying the cheap files in the first place. Plus they're only like $11-$13 a piece plus shipping or something like that depending on where you get them. I've found that I really
 only need the half-round needle files for most basic things. Hope you enjoy it, and take care,



Matt



Matt



Matt



--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, pascal <night000cruiser@...> wrote:

>

> Hi everybody

> I'm new to the forum (thank you Keith for letting me in!) and new to the mpc work world. I am just a player willing to understand more about the tools of my trade and maybe get some information on how to tamper with some cheap plastic pieces I have here. I saw the files directory of the group, I've read the basic stuff about mouthpieces but beyond that... I'm simply overwhelmed and don't know where to start. As a "padawan" I'm looking for advice of a patient MPC Jedi out there who could dedicate a minute to write me (maybe there are other newbies here?) and suggesting some introductory readings, covering the basics and bridging the gap between theory and pratice. It would be very kind! Furthermore, I'll check the things for myself, I really don't wanna be a pain with "padawanesque" questions. Any guidance will be much appreciated. May the force be with you.

> 

> Regards,

> Paulo

>





    
     

    
    


 



  






      

Hey Matt (and everybody else)

what do you think of the mpc refacing kit of mitchellstore? I find the Wanne digital gauge quite pricey, and I'm not sure if it is that much worth? Advice is appreciated.

Cheers
P.

--- On Tue, 8/24/10, mattmarantz86 <mattmarantz86@...> wrote:

From: mattmarantz86 <mattmarantz86@...>
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: MPC for dummies
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 24, 2010, 10:40 PM







 



  


    
      
      
      Welcome to the forum. A great place to start is the files section which includes a bunch of info written by Mojo and others. Mojo posted a great Powerpoint tutorial about this stuff with pictures that's really nice. There's lots of info in the pictures section too about how to measure stuff/etc. If you're wanting to learn to do it, it helps to get some good gauges and just start measuring/analyzing different mouthpiece curves and try to determine why certain mouthpieces play really well vs. why certain other mouthpieces don't play well. You can find a lot of useful info here on this forum, as well as the mouthpiece refacing section on the Sax on The Web forum about facing lengths, curve choices, baffle profiles, chamber shapes, etc. A really good thing to have is also a mouthpiece tip gauge. I've found the dial tip gauge from PM Woodwind to be a useful tool, although the end of the dial tip indicator is pretty blunt and kind of hard to work with.
 Theo Wanne sells an attachment for dial tip indicators called the "accurate tip" which may make measuring with one of these tools more reliable with more repeatable results. I've not tested the Wanne add-on tip, but am planning to if I can get around to measuring the thread on my PM Woodwind gauge soon. The LAW glass gauge and the Mojo feeler gauges are really good,  well made tools. I've found the "Meyer" curve spreadsheet in the "Files" section of this forum to be a good curve-generator for alto mouthpieces. I've found facing lengths of 42 (21mm) for alto, and 48 (24mm) to 50 (25mm) for tenor to be really good places to start with for facing lengths on those instruments. I've also found that standard mouthpieces like Selmer C* pieces can be made into nice playing jazz mouthpieces that you can learn the craft on (some of us have these lying around, I know I had a couple). My best advice is not to work on nice mouthpieces or blanks until you feel you're
 ready. Sometimes when I was first starting out, I'd try to work on mouthpieces that I probably should've waited to work on (Zinner blanks, Links, etc.), and wound up destroying them ha. This can be a really, really fun and rewarding thing to get into, but if you can find some really cheap blanks or a collection of old, cruddy mouthpieces somewhere, it might be best to start with those. I don't know about everyone else, but I've found that sometimes it's something as simple as a matter of what order you try to do things in that determines whether or not a project goes well or not. Mojo has a list of the general order he does things in posted somewhere in the files section here. One little thing I've found helpful is that when you're trying to finish up a project and you begin to thin the tip rail and the side rails to your desired lengths, try to make sure you've already done all of the outside shaping that you're planning to do (where you match the tip
 and table profiles to match a reed shape) *before* you begin to finish thinning the tip and side rails to your desired finished preferences. Otherwise, sometimes you can end up thinning the tip rail or side rails too much and there won't be enough material left for the reed to vibrate again properly. I know I ran into that problem. I've found 400 and 600 grit sandpaper to be good for working with rubber mouthpieces, and steel wool is a great tool to use to put a finished surface onto your mouthpiece inside and outside after a project has been finish sanded. Good files are a must - cheap files from Home Depot are OK to start out with, but Grobet Valtitan Swiss needle files (usually in the "0" or sometimes the extra coarse "00" cuts) are so much better that it's almost not worth buying the cheap files in the first place. Plus they're only like $11-$13 a piece plus shipping or something like that depending on where you get them. I've found that I really
 only need the half-round needle files for most basic things. Hope you enjoy it, and take care,



Matt



      

Hi Pascal,

The Mitchellstore kit looks like a great value to me. Just judging from the pictures and description a few things come to mind - As far as the metal feeler gauges in their kit are concerned, those look fine and they cover all the sizes you'd need, although they've spaced out a little differently than Mojo's gauges, but overall it looks like a pretty standard set thickness-wise. One thing you'd want to check when you get the gauges is their actual thickness - Mitchellstore may have done this already, but it's a good idea just to take a digital caliper and measure the exact thicknesses on both sides of all your feeler gauges just to make sure they're marked accurately. If you don't have a digital caliper already, you'll probably find that it's a useful tool to have for measuring things on the mouthpiece that can't be measured with feeler gauges or a tip gauge (such as rail thicknesses). 

The glass gauge looks pretty good. Honestly I've only had experience with one glass gauge, the LAW gauge that Mojo sells, and I gotta say it's a great gauge. It's etched really finely and is super easy to read, and the fact that the etching is done in the color white makes it a really easy to read on hard rubber mouthpieces, which if I have to guess is probably the kind of material that someone would normally try to tackle first when learning refacing because it's just a little easier to deal with than metal. The glass gauge in the Mitchell kit looks fine - although it's also a little wider than the LAW gauge. I'd hope it'd still be really easy to hold it in one hand along with the mouthpiece (a grip that is taxing on the hand muscles! Gets easier after a while but it tires out your hand pretty quickly. I'd just hope that this gauge wouldn't be so wide as to make it difficult to hold, but it doesn't look too bad.) I don't think a glass gauge needs to be fancy as long as the lines are thin and they're spaced out accurately. It looks pretty good to me, although the lines in it may be ever so slightly thicker than the lines in the LAW gauge, but it's hard to tell from the pictures. It doesn't look like they're thick enough to cause any problems though. I'm sure it'd be fine to get started with, and the LAW gauges are only 25 bucks if you want to get one in the future. 

The dial gauge looks good. Actually, given the fact that those are normally fairly expensive, it seems like this kit is a really good value for someone looking to get started. I have a PM Woodwind tip gauge which is basically the same design as the one in the Mitchell kit. It works great. The ball point is a little tricky to place in an exact spot on the tip rail simply because it's kind of blunt, but once you get to know the gauge a little bit it gets easier to take readings with it. The only thing to keep in mind there is that it does make a bit of difference if you measure at the front or the back of the tip rail when you take your readings, so being able to place the ball point on the gauge in a fairly exact location is important. I have a Theo Wanne "accurate tip" that is just basically a much smaller ball point attachment for these types of gauges, and I got it because I thought it would help to see better when taking readings. I had to modify it to make it fit on my tip gauge (which involved sanding most of the thread off of the "accurate tip" attachment to make it shorter - it's really made to fit Theo's gauge and didn't fit mine well), but it does work with my gauge now. The only thing is that I found that it gave the same readings I was already getting with the ball point tip, but that was kind of the reason for getting it, to try to make sure I was getting fairly accurate tip opening readings. I don't think you need a digital gauge indicator, but that's just my opinion. I think the dial indicators are fine and are easy enough to read. Cheaper too. And as far as quality goes - I can speak for the PM Woodwind gauge being good since that's the one I have, but the one in the Mitchellstore kit looks very close to that one. I would imagine that the only things to watch out for with tip opening gauges are that you just want to make sure the gauge is really flat and true along the bottom of the area that rests on the mouthpiece table as you take the readings, that your gauge is zeroed at the proper point when you're ready to take a reading, and that the dial tip indicator is securely fastened to the base-block so as to prevent slippage of the dial indicator when you take a reading (which would lead to inaccuracies). Also, you want to make sure the ball-point tip itself (they are usually removable) is securely fastened to the depth-plunger so it's not slipping around and changing heights as you take readings. If those parts of the gauge are working properly, you should be fine with it, and the Mitchell tip gauge looks like a good design.

So, although I've never personally used one of their kits, it looks like a good place to start and is definitely a great value. I can only really speak first-hand about the stuff I have for being good equipment, which are the Mojo feeler gauges, the LAW glass gauge, and the PM Woodwind gauge. That selection of tools will set you back a little further though, plus the Mitchellstore kit comes with a bunch of instructions. This site is a great resource for getting started and has a lot of the info you need, but if the kit has some really good instructions in it too, I guess that'd be another added bonus.

Hope it works out for you if that's what you decide to go with. All the best,

Matt


--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, pascal <night000cruiser@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Matt (and everybody else)
> 
> what do you think of the mpc refacing kit of mitchellstore? I find the Wanne digital gauge quite pricey, and I'm not sure if it is that much worth? Advice is appreciated.
> 
> Cheers
> P.
> 
> --- On Tue, 8/24/10, mattmarantz86 <mattmarantz86@...> wrote:
> 
> From: mattmarantz86 <mattmarantz86@...>
> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: MPC for dummies
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, August 24, 2010, 10:40 PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
>     
>       
>       
>       Welcome to the forum. A great place to start is the files section which includes a bunch of info written by Mojo and others. Mojo posted a great Powerpoint tutorial about this stuff with pictures that's really nice. There's lots of info in the pictures section too about how to measure stuff/etc. If you're wanting to learn to do it, it helps to get some good gauges and just start measuring/analyzing different mouthpiece curves and try to determine why certain mouthpieces play really well vs. why certain other mouthpieces don't play well. You can find a lot of useful info here on this forum, as well as the mouthpiece refacing section on the Sax on The Web forum about facing lengths, curve choices, baffle profiles, chamber shapes, etc. A really good thing to have is also a mouthpiece tip gauge. I've found the dial tip gauge from PM Woodwind to be a useful tool, although the end of the dial tip indicator is pretty blunt and kind of hard to work with.
>  Theo Wanne sells an attachment for dial tip indicators called the "accurate tip" which may make measuring with one of these tools more reliable with more repeatable results. I've not tested the Wanne add-on tip, but am planning to if I can get around to measuring the thread on my PM Woodwind gauge soon. The LAW glass gauge and the Mojo feeler gauges are really good,  well made tools. I've found the "Meyer" curve spreadsheet in the "Files" section of this forum to be a good curve-generator for alto mouthpieces. I've found facing lengths of 42 (21mm) for alto, and 48 (24mm) to 50 (25mm) for tenor to be really good places to start with for facing lengths on those instruments. I've also found that standard mouthpieces like Selmer C* pieces can be made into nice playing jazz mouthpieces that you can learn the craft on (some of us have these lying around, I know I had a couple). My best advice is not to work on nice mouthpieces or blanks until you feel you're
>  ready. Sometimes when I was first starting out, I'd try to work on mouthpieces that I probably should've waited to work on (Zinner blanks, Links, etc.), and wound up destroying them ha. This can be a really, really fun and rewarding thing to get into, but if you can find some really cheap blanks or a collection of old, cruddy mouthpieces somewhere, it might be best to start with those. I don't know about everyone else, but I've found that sometimes it's something as simple as a matter of what order you try to do things in that determines whether or not a project goes well or not. Mojo has a list of the general order he does things in posted somewhere in the files section here. One little thing I've found helpful is that when you're trying to finish up a project and you begin to thin the tip rail and the side rails to your desired lengths, try to make sure you've already done all of the outside shaping that you're planning to do (where you match the tip
>  and table profiles to match a reed shape) *before* you begin to finish thinning the tip and side rails to your desired finished preferences. Otherwise, sometimes you can end up thinning the tip rail or side rails too much and there won't be enough material left for the reed to vibrate again properly. I know I ran into that problem. I've found 400 and 600 grit sandpaper to be good for working with rubber mouthpieces, and steel wool is a great tool to use to put a finished surface onto your mouthpiece inside and outside after a project has been finish sanded. Good files are a must - cheap files from Home Depot are OK to start out with, but Grobet Valtitan Swiss needle files (usually in the "0" or sometimes the extra coarse "00" cuts) are so much better that it's almost not worth buying the cheap files in the first place. Plus they're only like $11-$13 a piece plus shipping or something like that depending on where you get them. I've found that I really
>  only need the half-round needle files for most basic things. Hope you enjoy it, and take care,
> 
> 
> 
> Matt
>

Thank you very much for the advice, Matt. I believe that it makes more sense for me now as an absolute beginner on a budget. I'll probably buy the kit. In this case, I'll make good photos of it and post here so everybody can see it and make their comments.

Regards
P.



      

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, pascal <night000cruiser@...> wrote:
>
> Thank you very much for the advice, Matt. I believe that it makes more sense for me now as an absolute beginner on a budget. I'll probably buy the kit. In this case, I'll make good photos of it and post here so everybody can see it and make their comments.
> 
> Regards
> P.
>From Jimmitch                                                                                                                                                                                                                 > I would like to thank everyone for the good words on my kit.I put it together to save people time and the work of cutting the feelers .They are hard steal and you need a good saw to cut them.The base I use for the digital gage is the best I can get without having one made for the job.Having one made would add a lot more to the cost.I hand flatten the base as best I can and it works well .I have sold guite a few kits and everyone seams to like them.I offer a full refund buyer pays the shipping to anyone that is not happy.So far I have not had to do that.I'm sure not doing this to make a lot of money.I like to see people have the feeling of making a mouthpiece play better then when the started to work on it.That said you must start on mouthpieces that you don't care about or you will be very sorry.It takes a good feel for this work.People have spent big money on feelers that the edges are made flat thinking this is a big deal.Your working on a glass gage that measures on  millimeters.Even if you could make a piece the same as your best one it still my not play the same.When I reface I use measurements as a guide and play test until I'm happy with the mouthpiece.I always tell everyont that buyes my enjoy your refacing work.Thanks Jim

"Mojo posted a great Powerpoint tutorial about this stuff with pictures 
that's really nice"

Where is this ? There is a step by step Word document by Mojo but I cant 
find the Powerpoint presentation with pics.

-- 
Jeff MacFronton
High Note Music and Instrument Repair
201A-4690 Marine Ave
Powell River, BC V8A2L1
hinotemusic@...
604-485-2225

I don't know, I thought it used to be in the files-->methods section of this site, just looked and it's not there anymore. Maybe it's somewhere else on the site, but I'm sure Mojo would know.

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, High Note Music <hinotemusic@...> wrote:
>
> "Mojo posted a great Powerpoint tutorial about this stuff with pictures 
> that's really nice"
> 
> Where is this ? There is a step by step Word document by Mojo but I cant 
> find the Powerpoint presentation with pics.
> 
> -- 
> Jeff MacFronton
> High Note Music and Instrument Repair
> 201A-4690 Marine Ave
> Powell River, BC V8A2L1
> hinotemusic@...
> 604-485-2225
>

The presentation from my clinic has always been on my personal site: 
http://www.mojomouthpiecework.com/Clinic/tabid/63/Default.aspx


Check out: http://www.MojoMouthpieceWork.com
...and: http://www.facebook.com/mojomouthpiecework




________________________________
From: mattmarantz86 <mattmarantz86@...>
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, November 5, 2010 7:29:12 PM
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: MPC for dummies

  
I don't know, I thought it used to be in the files-->methods section of this 
site, just looked and it's not there anymore. Maybe it's somewhere else on the 
site, but I'm sure Mojo would know.

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, High Note Music <hinotemusic@...> wrote:
>
> "Mojo posted a great Powerpoint tutorial about this stuff with pictures 
> that's really nice"
> 
> Where is this ? There is a step by step Word document by Mojo but I cant 
> find the Powerpoint presentation with pics.
> 
> -- 
> Jeff MacFronton
> High Note Music and Instrument Repair
> 201A-4690 Marine Ave
> Powell River, BC V8A2L1
> hinotemusic@...
> 604-485-2225
>