I've been asked to remove and replace the bite plate of an old Link Tonemaster with original facing work.  Just looking for simple suggestions on how to remove this exactly without causing too much damage.

Thanks all.

Matt

If the original bite plate is in there tight, I would try and talk the client 
into just repairing it with 3M DP-810 black acrylic.  This minimizes the risk of 
damaging the surrounding metal and is less work.  


Otherwise, I use a small pocket knife blade to pry and chip it out.  Sometimes a 
narrow wood chisel helps.




________________________________
From: Matthew <matthew.voss@...>
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, July 19, 2010 12:23:43 PM
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Removing Bite Plate

  
I've been asked to remove and replace the bite plate of an old Link Tonemaster 
with original facing work. Just looking for simple suggestions on how to remove 
this exactly without causing too much damage.

Thanks all.

Matt





      

Don't laugh at this until you try it!
Remove the old bite plate by whatever means necessary. Get the top of  
a spray paint can. Cut and trim into a perfect fit. Install with gel  
type CA glue.

Thanks to Paul Coats who taught me this trick.....




On Jul 19, 2010, at 12:32 PM, Keith Bradbury wrote:

>
> If the original bite plate is in there tight, I would try and talk  
> the client into just repairing it with 3M DP-810 black acrylic.   
> This minimizes the risk of damaging the surrounding metal and is  
> less work.
>
> Otherwise, I use a small pocket knife blade to pry and chip it out.   
> Sometimes a narrow wood chisel helps.
>
> From: Matthew <matthew.voss@sterlingnational.com>
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Mon, July 19, 2010 12:23:43 PM
> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Removing Bite Plate
>
>
> I've been asked to remove and replace the bite plate of an old Link  
> Tonemaster with original facing work. Just looking for simple  
> suggestions on how to remove this exactly without causing too much  
> damage.
>
> Thanks all.
>
> Matt
>
>
>
>
> 

I used a black plastic cup from an old thermos container to replace the
bite plate on a Ponzol mpc. Thicker than a spray can top, and (presumably)
of food grade plastic, seeing as how it spends some time in your mouth.

> Don't laugh at this until you try it!
> Remove the old bite plate by whatever means necessary. Get the top of
> a spray paint can. Cut and trim into a perfect fit. Install with gel
> type CA glue.
>
> Thanks to Paul Coats who taught me this trick.....
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 19, 2010, at 12:32 PM, Keith Bradbury wrote:
>
>>
>> If the original bite plate is in there tight, I would try and talk
>> the client into just repairing it with 3M DP-810 black acrylic.
>> This minimizes the risk of damaging the surrounding metal and is
>> less work.
>>
>> Otherwise, I use a small pocket knife blade to pry and chip it out.
>> Sometimes a narrow wood chisel helps.
>>
>> From: Matthew <matthew.voss@...>
>> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
>> Sent: Mon, July 19, 2010 12:23:43 PM
>> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Removing Bite Plate
>>
>>
>> I've been asked to remove and replace the bite plate of an old Link
>> Tonemaster with original facing work. Just looking for simple
>> suggestions on how to remove this exactly without causing too much
>> damage.
>>
>> Thanks all.
>>
>> Matt
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>

...And by Steve's suggestion I  tried Paul's method too.   Pretty slick.


Bill Daleiden
A NEW Tune, LLC
(920) 264-5827

--- On Mon, 7/19/10, STEVE GOODSON <saxgourmet@...> wrote:


From: STEVE GOODSON <saxgourmet@...>
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Removing Bite Plate
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, July 19, 2010, 12:40 PM


  



Don't laugh at this until you try it! 
Remove the old bite plate by whatever means necessary. Get the top of a spray paint can. Cut and trim into a perfect fit. Install with gel type CA glue.


Thanks to Paul Coats who taught me this trick.....









On Jul 19, 2010, at 12:32 PM, Keith Bradbury wrote:










If the original bite plate is in there tight, I would try and talk the client into just repairing it with 3M DP-810 black acrylic.  This minimizes the risk of damaging the surrounding metal and is less work. 
 
Otherwise, I use a small pocket knife blade to pry and chip it out.  Sometimes a narrow wood chisel helps.





From: Matthew <matthew.voss@ sterlingnational .com>
To: MouthpieceWork@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Mon, July 19, 2010 12:23:43 PM
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Removing Bite Plate

 

I've been asked to remove and replace the bite plate of an old Link Tonemaster with original facing work. Just looking for simple suggestions on how to remove this exactly without causing too much damage.

Thanks all.

Matt














      

Thanks all.  I am concerned with removing the bite.  If you are familiar with Tonemasters, the beak is very thin and the bite plate curves down almost to the side rails!

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
>
> If the original bite plate is in there tight, I would try and talk the client 
> into just repairing it with 3M DP-810 black acrylic.  This minimizes the risk of 
> damaging the surrounding metal and is less work.  
> 
> 
> Otherwise, I use a small pocket knife blade to pry and chip it out.  Sometimes a 
> narrow wood chisel helps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Matthew <matthew.voss@...>
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Mon, July 19, 2010 12:23:43 PM
> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Removing Bite Plate
> 
>   
> I've been asked to remove and replace the bite plate of an old Link Tonemaster 
> with original facing work. Just looking for simple suggestions on how to remove 
> this exactly without causing too much damage.
> 
> Thanks all.
> 
> Matt
>

Just find a plastic black bottle with a similar curve that can serve the
purpose. Hair sprays or gels and shops selling them are good source.

On Tue, Jul 20, 2010 at 2:27 PM, Matthew
<matthew.voss@...>wrote:

>
>
> Thanks all. I am concerned with removing the bite. If you are familiar with
> Tonemasters, the beak is very thin and the bite plate curves down almost to
> the side rails!
>
> --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com <MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com>,
> Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
> >
> > If the original bite plate is in there tight, I would try and talk the
> client
> > into just repairing it with 3M DP-810 black acrylic.  This minimizes the
> risk of
> > damaging the surrounding metal and is less work.Â
> >
> >
> > Otherwise, I use a small pocket knife blade to pry and chip it out.Â
> Sometimes a
> > narrow wood chisel helps.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Matthew <matthew.voss@...>
>
> > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com <MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Mon, July 19, 2010 12:23:43 PM
> > Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Removing Bite Plate
> >
> > Â
> > I've been asked to remove and replace the bite plate of an old Link
> Tonemaster
> > with original facing work. Just looking for simple suggestions on how to
> remove
> > this exactly without causing too much damage.
> >
> > Thanks all.
> >
> > Matt
> >
>
>  
>



-- 
Sakshama

To minimize damage during removal, I suggest soaking it in some kind of glue thinner or rubbing alcohol for a day.  That should get to the glue and loosen it.
If it does not fall right out, place it in the freezer for a few hours.
The plastic/rubber of the plate will shrink more than the metal and it should be easier to remove.

a little heat will usually release most glues



On Jul 21, 2010, at 8:05 AM, skygardener1 wrote:

> To minimize damage during removal, I suggest soaking it in some kind  
> of glue thinner or rubbing alcohol for a day. That should get to the  
> glue and loosen it.
> If it does not fall right out, place it in the freezer for a few  
> hours.
> The plastic/rubber of the plate will shrink more than the metal and  
> it should be easier to remove.
>
>
> 

I tried this last night with a current production Link I had lying around.  I removed the black bite plate fairly easily with a sharp small wood chisel (thanks Keith).  The plastic cap material is just a fuzz shallow but worked great.  Thanks again.

Matt

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, William Daleiden <wdaleiden@...> wrote:
>
> ...And by Steve's suggestion I  tried Paul's method too.   Pretty slick.
> 
> 
> Bill Daleiden
> A NEW Tune, LLC
> (920) 264-5827
> 
> --- On Mon, 7/19/10, STEVE GOODSON <saxgourmet@...> wrote:
> 
> 
> From: STEVE GOODSON <saxgourmet@...>
> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Removing Bite Plate
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, July 19, 2010, 12:40 PM
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> Don't laugh at this until you try it! 
> Remove the old bite plate by whatever means necessary. Get the top of a spray paint can. Cut and trim into a perfect fit. Install with gel type CA glue.
> 
> 
> Thanks to Paul Coats who taught me this trick.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Jul 19, 2010, at 12:32 PM, Keith Bradbury wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the original bite plate is in there tight, I would try and talk the client into just repairing it with 3M DP-810 black acrylic.  This minimizes the risk of damaging the surrounding metal and is less work. 
>  
> Otherwise, I use a small pocket knife blade to pry and chip it out.  Sometimes a narrow wood chisel helps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: Matthew <matthew.voss@ sterlingnational .com>
> To: MouthpieceWork@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Mon, July 19, 2010 12:23:43 PM
> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Removing Bite Plate
> 
>  
> 
> I've been asked to remove and replace the bite plate of an old Link Tonemaster with original facing work. Just looking for simple suggestions on how to remove this exactly without causing too much damage.
> 
> Thanks all.
> 
> Matt
>