Hi all-

My first post but I am thankful for the info here.  I usually work on links (STMs for my own use) and have become comfortable closing the tip moderately by taking down the table.  I can then apply the curve to my preferences (22mm) without necessarily having to do any work on the baffle.

What is the best approach to close the tip (from a 7* to a 7 or 6*) if there is not enough material on the table?

Thanks!

Matt

In all the modern Links I've seen there's way too much material in the table.  I have never had a problem with not enough, except in a few butchered vintage STMs.  You're only talking about taking off another .005" anyway.  that said, if you have to you can try bending the tip closed, but this will create a bit of a low spot in the facing curve, so you'll have to overshoot it then open it up again past the bend.  

I would just lap the table down.  If it starts to fail, it will get razor thin at the window edge.  It'll be thicker as you go back toward the heel.  Lengthen the window some and/or reinforce it underneath with some solder.  I have never had to do this to a modern STM, though, there's usually enough table to safely take off around 1mm by hand.

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "mavoss97" <mavoss97@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all-
> 
> My first post but I am thankful for the info here.  I usually work on links (STMs for my own use) and have become comfortable closing the tip moderately by taking down the table.  I can then apply the curve to my preferences (22mm) without necessarily having to do any work on the baffle.
> 
> What is the best approach to close the tip (from a 7* to a 7 or 6*) if there is not enough material on the table?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Matt
>

Thanks Morgan.  This piece is a Barone Jazz and the table is awfully thin as it is.  I think bending the tip is beyond my skill level at this point.  I'll try your second suggestion first.

Again, thanks.

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "Morgan" <frymorgan@...> wrote:
>
> In all the modern Links I've seen there's way too much material in the table.  I have never had a problem with not enough, except in a few butchered vintage STMs.  You're only talking about taking off another .005" anyway.  that said, if you have to you can try bending the tip closed, but this will create a bit of a low spot in the facing curve, so you'll have to overshoot it then open it up again past the bend.  
> 
> I would just lap the table down.  If it starts to fail, it will get razor thin at the window edge.  It'll be thicker as you go back toward the heel.  Lengthen the window some and/or reinforce it underneath with some solder.  I have never had to do this to a modern STM, though, there's usually enough table to safely take off around 1mm by hand.
>