I'm wanting to get something that will remove material from plastic and hard rubber baffles quicker than needle or riffler files. Any suggestions?
Thanks

This html message parsed with html2text ---------------------------Coarser files (like the tungsten carbide ones from Micro-Mark) or a rotary
tool (e.g., Dremel or Foredom) are useful.  
  
DT  
  
Steve wrote:

> I'm wanting to get something that will remove material from plastic and hard
> rubber baffles quicker than needle or riffler files. Any suggestions?  
>  Thanks  
>  
>

Hello,

I took an old piece of hardwood (maple flooring, actually), and fashioned a handled tool with a crooked "finger" at the business end.  This is just the right size to put into the chamber of a clarinet mouthpiece.  I just used a band saw to make the curve.  On that, I put thick double sided tape, which gives me some cushion, and on that, I put sandpaper cut to size.  It works great!  If anyone is intersted, I'll take a couple of photos and put it up on my website, but it'll have to wait until I return from the Oklahoma clarinet symposium.  Cheers!  

Ben
www.redwinejazz.com

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <stebinus@...> wrote:
...remove material from plastic and hard rubber baffles...

One can easily make a "reverse" scraper by purchasing an inexpensive flathead screwdriver and bending the head 90 degrees.  This may require some heat with a propane torch to soften the metal so it doesn't snap.  The reason I recommend a cheap screwdriver is because the metal is typically much softer to begin with.
 
After your bend, with a grinder, you can narrow the head to whatever dimension you like, and sharpen the scraper head.  This tool should last for a month of good use before needs to be sharpened again.  
 
This tool isn't ideal because it is not Tempered hardened metal which would keep an edge for a longer time, but it works great when sharp, and it is inexpensive.  One can easily make a batch of perhaps half a dozen in an afternoon, and have a good supply.  After several tools have been made, you can decide which size/s are your personal favorite and then draw a sketch for your local toolmaker to build a carbide one that would last forever.
 
I use one like this for any "grunt work" necessary, and then I use an Equaling file, which I have ground the side edges smooth, then glued cork or leather all the way around to create a somewhat softer, contoured surface for strips of sandpaper to wrap around.  I am preferring the soft, tacky, white leather for instrument pads as of late, because two layers glued together with contact cement creates a nice soft contoured surface and the tackiness of the leather allows a nice grippy surface for my sandpaper strips to stay in position during use.  
 
With respect to the sandpaper strips, I simply cut strips that are as wide as my tool, and are the full length of my sandpaper.  I start with 150 grit, and move to smoother grades to create the desired surface texture.  This tool has been one of my longtime favorites for its simplicity, and functionality.
 
I should mention that for fine work up at the tiprail, I start with rattail files, and then finish with the above tool.
 
Brad Behn  www.clarinetmouthpiece.com

--- On Sun, 6/14/09, Dan Torosian <dtorosian@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


From: Dan Torosian <dtorosian@...>
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Tools for baffles
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, June 14, 2009, 7:55 AM








Coarser files (like the tungsten carbide ones from Micro-Mark) or a rotary tool (e.g., Dremel or Foredom) are useful.

DT

Steve wrote: 


I'm wanting to get something that will remove material from plastic and hard rubber baffles quicker than needle or riffler files. Any suggestions?
Thanks

















      

The custom scraper is a neat idea.  When you are done bending it, you may be able to temper (harden) it somewhat by heating it with the torch and quenching it.  


      

Yes please put the pictures up. I would like to see this. What grit paper do you use with it?

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "redw1ne" <clarinet@...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
> 
> I took an old piece of hardwood (maple flooring, actually), and fashioned a handled tool with a crooked "finger" at the business end.  This is just the right size to put into the chamber of a clarinet mouthpiece.  I just used a band saw to make the curve.  On that, I put thick double sided tape, which gives me some cushion, and on that, I put sandpaper cut to size.  It works great!  If anyone is intersted, I'll take a couple of photos and put it up on my website, but it'll have to wait until I return from the Oklahoma clarinet symposium.  Cheers!  
> 
> Ben
> www.redwinejazz.com
> 
> --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <stebinus@> wrote:
> ...remove material from plastic and hard rubber baffles...
>

When you are finished working the tool & have it the shape that you want it, you can re-harden & temper it.  Heat it red hot for an inch , or two back from the tip with the torch, then quench the tip in oil.  When the tip has cooled, remove the tool from the oil and quickly polish the cutting end with some emery cloth. Watch the polished surface, as the heat from the opposite end feeds back into the quenched end. As the temperature of the hardened end increases, oxide colors appear. These oxide colors progress from pale yellow, to a straw color, and end in blue colors. As soon as the correct shade of blue appears this should be a peacock to purple), quench the entire tool to prevent further softening of the tip. The metal is tempered as soon as the proper oxide color appears and quenching merely prevents further tempering by halting the process. This final quench has no effect on the body of the tool, because the temperature will have dropped below the critical point by the time the proper oxide color appears on the tip. When you have completed this process, the scraper will be hardened and tem­pered and only needs a final  grinding.

For more information, you can check out:

Machinery's Handbook, 26th Edition, 2000, Industrial Press

http://www.tpub.com/steelworker1/11.htm

Edge of the Anvil, Jack Andrews, 1977, Skipjack Press.

David


--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Brad Behn <bradbehn@...> wrote:
>
> One can easily make a "reverse" scraper by purchasing an inexpensive flathead screwdriver and bending the head 90 degrees.  This may require some heat with a propane torch to soften the metal so it doesn't snap.  The reason I recommend a cheap screwdriver is because the metal is typically much softer to begin with.
>  
> After your bend, with a grinder, you can narrow the head to whatever dimension you like, and sharpen the scraper head.  This tool should last for a month of good use before needs to be sharpened again.  
>  
> This tool isn't ideal because it is not Tempered hardened metal which would keep an edge for a longer time, but it works great when sharp, and it is inexpensive.  One can easily make a batch of perhaps half a dozen in an afternoon, and have a good supply.  After several tools have been made, you can decide which size/s are your personal favorite and then draw a sketch for your local toolmaker to build a carbide one that would last forever.
>  
> I use one like this for any "grunt work" necessary, and then I use an Equaling file, which I have ground the side edges smooth, then glued cork or leather all the way around to create a somewhat softer, contoured surface for strips of sandpaper to wrap around.  I am preferring the soft, tacky, white leather for instrument pads as of late, because two layers glued together with contact cement creates a nice soft contoured surface and the tackiness of the leather allows a nice grippy surface for my sandpaper strips to stay in position during use.  
>  
> With respect to the sandpaper strips, I simply cut strips that are as wide as my tool, and are the full length of my sandpaper.  I start with 150 grit, and move to smoother grades to create the desired surface texture.  This tool has been one of my longtime favorites for its simplicity, and functionality.
>  
> I should mention that for fine work up at the tiprail, I start with rattail files, and then finish with the above tool.
>  
> Brad Behn  www.clarinetmouthpiece.com
> 
> --- On Sun, 6/14/09, Dan Torosian <dtorosian@...> wrote:
> 
> 
> From: Dan Torosian <dtorosian@...>
> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Tools for baffles
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, June 14, 2009, 7:55 AM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coarser files (like the tungsten carbide ones from Micro-Mark) or a rotary tool (e.g., Dremel or Foredom) are useful.
> 
> DT
> 
> Steve wrote: 
> 
> 
> I'm wanting to get something that will remove material from plastic and hard rubber baffles quicker than needle or riffler files. Any suggestions?
> Thanks
>

Science will backup all this blacksmith tempering stuff.  But what kind of color is peacock blue?  I just Googled it and saw some examples.  But they range from dark to light blues...

--- On Wed, 6/17/09, David Kulcinski <dkulcinski@...> wrote:


From: David Kulcinski <dkulcinski@yahoo.com>
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Tools for baffles
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, June 17, 2009, 9:53 AM








When you are finished working the tool & have it the shape that you want it, you can re-harden & temper it. Heat it red hot for an inch , or two back from the tip with the torch, then quench the tip in oil. When the tip has cooled, remove the tool from the oil and quickly polish the cutting end with some emery cloth. Watch the polished surface, as the heat from the opposite end feeds back into the quenched end. As the temperature of the hardened end increases, oxide colors appear. These oxide colors progress from pale yellow, to a straw color, and end in blue colors. As soon as the correct shade of blue appears this should be a peacock to purple), quench the entire tool to prevent further softening of the tip. The metal is tempered as soon as the proper oxide color appears and quenching merely prevents further tempering by halting the process. This final quench has no effect on the body of the tool, because the temperature will have dropped below the
 critical point by the time the proper oxide color appears on the tip. When you have completed this process, the scraper will be hardened and tem­pered and only needs a final grinding.

For more information, you can check out:

Machinery's Handbook, 26th Edition, 2000, Industrial Press

http://www.tpub. com/steelworker1 /11.htm

Edge of the Anvil, Jack Andrews, 1977, Skipjack Press.

David

--- In MouthpieceWork@ yahoogroups. com, Brad Behn <bradbehn@.. .> wrote:
>
> One can easily make a "reverse" scraper by purchasing an inexpensive flathead screwdriver and bending the head 90 degrees.  This may require some heat with a propane torch to soften the metal so it doesn't snap.  The reason I recommend a cheap screwdriver is because the metal is typically much softer to begin with.
>  
> After your bend, with a grinder, you can narrow the head to whatever dimension you like, and sharpen the scraper head.  This tool should last for a month of good use before needs to be sharpened again.  
>  
> This tool isn't ideal because it is not Tempered hardened metal which would keep an edge for a longer time, but it works great when sharp, and it is inexpensive.  One can easily make a batch of perhaps half a dozen in an afternoon, and have a good supply.  After several tools have been made, you can decide which size/s are your personal favorite and then draw a sketch for your local toolmaker to build a carbide one that would last forever.
>  
> I use one like this for any "grunt work" necessary, and then I use an Equaling file, which I have ground the side edges smooth, then glued cork or leather all the way around to create a somewhat softer, contoured surface for strips of sandpaper to wrap around.  I am preferring the soft, tacky, white leather for instrument pads as of late, because two layers glued together with contact cement creates a nice soft contoured surface and the tackiness of the leather allows a nice grippy surface for my sandpaper strips to stay in position during use.  
>  
> With respect to the sandpaper strips, I simply cut strips that are as wide as my tool, and are the full length of my sandpaper.  I start with 150 grit, and move to smoother grades to create the desired surface texture.  This tool has been one of my longtime favorites for its simplicity, and functionality.
>  
> I should mention that for fine work up at the tiprail, I start with rattail files, and then finish with the above tool.
>  
> Brad Behn  www.clarinetmouthpi ece.com
> 
> --- On Sun, 6/14/09, Dan Torosian <dtorosian@. ..> wrote:
> 
> 
> From: Dan Torosian <dtorosian@. ..>
> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Tools for baffles
> To: MouthpieceWork@ yahoogroups. com
> Date: Sunday, June 14, 2009, 7:55 AM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coarser files (like the tungsten carbide ones from Micro-Mark) or a rotary tool (e.g., Dremel or Foredom) are useful.
> 
> DT
> 
> Steve wrote: 
> 
> 
> I'm wanting to get something that will remove material from plastic and hard rubber baffles quicker than needle or riffler files. Any suggestions?
> Thanks
>

















      

It IS kind of subjective (may I say VERY subjective).  Just think of a peacock's tail feather & you will have it.  For our purposes, I don't think it is that critical.  It's like the difference in tolerances between 0 & 4 decimal places.  In another life, I used to make a lot of tools by "hammer & hand" and they all seemed to work pretty well.  This will be better than leaving them soft and we don't need to worry about striking them against steel as a chisel or punch might be.

David

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
>
> 
> 
> 
> Science will backup all this blacksmith tempering stuff.  But what kind of color is peacock blue?  I just Googled it and saw some examples.  But they range from dark to light blues...
> 
> --- On Wed, 6/17/09, David Kulcinski <dkulcinski@...> wrote:
> 
> 
> From: David Kulcinski <dkulcinski@...>
> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Tools for baffles
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, June 17, 2009, 9:53 AM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are finished working the tool & have it the shape that you want it, you can re-harden & temper it. Heat it red hot for an inch , or two back from the tip with the torch, then quench the tip in oil. When the tip has cooled, remove the tool from the oil and quickly polish the cutting end with some emery cloth. Watch the polished surface, as the heat from the opposite end feeds back into the quenched end. As the temperature of the hardened end increases, oxide colors appear. These oxide colors progress from pale yellow, to a straw color, and end in blue colors. As soon as the correct shade of blue appears this should be a peacock to purple), quench the entire tool to prevent further softening of the tip. The metal is tempered as soon as the proper oxide color appears and quenching merely prevents further tempering by halting the process. This final quench has no effect on the body of the tool, because the temperature will have dropped below the
>  critical point by the time the proper oxide color appears on the tip. When you have completed this process, the scraper will be hardened and tem­pered and only needs a final grinding.
> 
> For more information, you can check out:
> 
> Machinery's Handbook, 26th Edition, 2000, Industrial Press
> 
> http://www.tpub. com/steelworker1 /11.htm
> 
> Edge of the Anvil, Jack Andrews, 1977, Skipjack Press.
> 
> David
> 
> --- In MouthpieceWork@ yahoogroups. com, Brad Behn <bradbehn@ .> wrote:
> >
> > One can easily make a "reverse" scraper by purchasing an inexpensive flathead screwdriver and bending the head 90 degrees.  This may require some heat with a propane torch to soften the metal so it doesn't snap.  The reason I recommend a cheap screwdriver is because the metal is typically much softer to begin with.
> >  
> > After your bend, with a grinder, you can narrow the head to whatever dimension you like, and sharpen the scraper head.  This tool should last for a month of good use before needs to be sharpened again.  
> >  
> > This tool isn't ideal because it is not Tempered hardened metal which would keep an edge for a longer time, but it works great when sharp, and it is inexpensive.  One can easily make a batch of perhaps half a dozen in an afternoon, and have a good supply.  After several tools have been made, you can decide which size/s are your personal favorite and then draw a sketch for your local toolmaker to build a carbide one that would last forever.
> >  
> > I use one like this for any "grunt work" necessary, and then I use an Equaling file, which I have ground the side edges smooth, then glued cork or leather all the way around to create a somewhat softer, contoured surface for strips of sandpaper to wrap around.  I am preferring the soft, tacky, white leather for instrument pads as of late, because two layers glued together with contact cement creates a nice soft contoured surface and the tackiness of the leather allows a nice grippy surface for my sandpaper strips to stay in position during use.  
> >  
> > With respect to the sandpaper strips, I simply cut strips that are as wide as my tool, and are the full length of my sandpaper.  I start with 150 grit, and move to smoother grades to create the desired surface texture.  This tool has been one of my longtime favorites for its simplicity, and functionality.
> >  
> > I should mention that for fine work up at the tiprail, I start with rattail files, and then finish with the above tool.
> >  
> > Brad Behn  www.clarinetmouthpi ece.com
> > 
> > --- On Sun, 6/14/09, Dan Torosian <dtorosian@ ..> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > From: Dan Torosian <dtorosian@ ..>
> > Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Tools for baffles
> > To: MouthpieceWork@ yahoogroups. com
> > Date: Sunday, June 14, 2009, 7:55 AM
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Coarser files (like the tungsten carbide ones from Micro-Mark) or a rotary tool (e.g., Dremel or Foredom) are useful.
> > 
> > DT
> > 
> > Steve wrote: 
> > 
> > 
> > I'm wanting to get something that will remove material from plastic and hard rubber baffles quicker than needle or riffler files. Any suggestions?
> > Thanks
> >
>

Here are some pictures of the scraper.

--- On Tue, 6/16/09, Brad Behn <bradbehn@...> wrote:


From: Brad Behn <bradbehn@...>
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Tools for baffles
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, June 16, 2009, 4:01 PM













One can easily make a "reverse" scraper by purchasing an inexpensive flathead screwdriver and bending the head 90 degrees.  This may require some heat with a propane torch to soften the metal so it doesn't snap.  The reason I recommend a cheap screwdriver is because the metal is typically much softer to begin with.
 
After your bend, with a grinder, you can narrow the head to whatever dimension you like, and sharpen the scraper head.  This tool should last for a month of good use before needs to be sharpened again.  
 
This tool isn't ideal because it is not Tempered hardened metal which would keep an edge for a longer time, but it works great when sharp, and it is inexpensive.  One can easily make a batch of perhaps half a dozen in an afternoon, and have a good supply.  After several tools have been made, you can decide which size/s are your personal favorite and then draw a sketch for your local toolmaker to build a carbide one that would last forever.
 
I use one like this for any "grunt work" necessary, and then I use an Equaling file, which I have ground the side edges smooth, then glued cork or leather all the way around to create a somewhat softer, contoured surface for strips of sandpaper to wrap around.  I am preferring the soft, tacky, white leather for instrument pads as of late, because two layers glued together with contact cement creates a nice soft contoured surface and the tackiness of the leather allows a nice grippy surface for my sandpaper strips to stay in position during use.  
 
With respect to the sandpaper strips, I simply cut strips that are as wide as my tool, and are the full length of my sandpaper.  I start with 150 grit, and move to smoother grades to create the desired surface texture.  This tool has been one of my longtime favorites for its simplicity, and functionality.
 
I should mention that for fine work up at the tiprail, I start with rattail files, and then finish with the above tool.
 
Brad Behn  www.clarinetmouthpi ece.com

--- On Sun, 6/14/09, Dan Torosian <dtorosian@sbcglobal .net> wrote:


From: Dan Torosian <dtorosian@sbcglobal .net>
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Tools for baffles
To: MouthpieceWork@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Sunday, June 14, 2009, 7:55 AM




Coarser files (like the tungsten carbide ones from Micro-Mark) or a rotary tool (e.g., Dremel or Foredom) are useful.

DT

Steve wrote: 


I'm wanting to get something that will remove material from plastic and hard rubber baffles quicker than needle or riffler files. Any suggestions?
Thanks


















      

Frank Wells used to use old dental tools to scrape the inside of a piece.
Has anyone here done that with any success?

 

Doug

 

  _____  

From: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com [mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Brad Behn
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 6:04 PM
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Tools for baffles [4 Attachments]

 

[Attachment(s) from Brad Behn included below] 





Here are some pictures of the scraper.

--- On Tue, 6/16/09, Brad Behn <bradbehn@...> wrote:


From: Brad Behn <bradbehn@...>
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Tools for baffles
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, June 16, 2009, 4:01 PM


One can easily make a "reverse" scraper by purchasing an inexpensive
flathead screwdriver and bending the head 90 degrees.  This may require some
heat with a propane torch to soften the metal so it doesn't snap.  The
reason I recommend a cheap screwdriver is because the metal is typically
much softer to begin with.

 

After your bend, with a grinder, you can narrow the head to whatever
dimension you like, and sharpen the scraper head.  This tool should last for
a month of good use before needs to be sharpened again.  

 

This tool isn't ideal because it is not Tempered hardened metal which would
keep an edge for a longer time, but it works great when sharp, and it is
inexpensive.  One can easily make a batch of perhaps half a dozen in an
afternoon, and have a good supply.  After several tools have been made, you
can decide which size/s are your personal favorite and then draw a sketch
for your local toolmaker to build a carbide one that would last forever.

 

I use one like this for any "grunt work" necessary, and then I use an
Equaling file, which I have ground the side edges smooth, then glued cork or
leather all the way around to create a somewhat softer, contoured surface
for strips of sandpaper to wrap around.  I am preferring the soft, tacky,
white leather for instrument pads as of late, because two layers glued
together with contact cement creates a nice soft contoured surface and the
tackiness of the leather allows a nice grippy surface for my sandpaper
strips to stay in position during use.  

 

With respect to the sandpaper strips, I simply cut strips that are as wide
as my tool, and are the full length of my sandpaper.  I start with 150 grit,
and move to smoother grades to create the desired surface texture.  This
tool has been one of my longtime favorites for its simplicity, and
functionality.

 

I should mention that for fine work up at the tiprail, I start with rattail
files, and then finish with the above tool.

 

Brad Behn  

www.clarinetmouthpi ece.com <http://www.clarinetmouthpiece.com/> 

--- On Sun, 6/14/09, Dan Torosian <dtorosian@sbcglobal .net> wrote:


From: Dan Torosian <dtorosian@sbcglobal .net>
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Tools for baffles
To: MouthpieceWork@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Sunday, June 14, 2009, 7:55 AM

Coarser files (like the tungsten carbide ones from Micro-Mark) or a rotary
tool (e.g., Dremel or Foredom) are useful.

DT

Steve wrote: 

I'm wanting to get something that will remove material from plastic and hard
rubber baffles quicker than needle or riffler files. Any suggestions?
Thanks

 

Perhaps a word of caution or warning is in order to a new user of this tool. It seems easily possible to be able to exert too much pressure using this bent screwdriver and break or crack a thin beaked mouthpiece.  There is usually a learning curve with any new tool.

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Brad Behn <bradbehn@...> wrote:
>
> Here are some pictures of the scraper.
> 
> --- On Tue, 6/16/09, Brad Behn <bradbehn@...> wrote:
> 
> 
> From: Brad Behn <bradbehn@...>
> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Tools for baffles
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, June 16, 2009, 4:01 PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One can easily make a "reverse" scraper by purchasing an inexpensive flathead screwdriver and bending the head 90 degrees.  This may require some heat with a propane torch to soften the metal so it doesn't snap.  The reason I recommend a cheap screwdriver is because the metal is typically much softer to begin with.
>  
> After your bend, with a grinder, you can narrow the head to whatever dimension you like, and sharpen the scraper head.  This tool should last for a month of good use before needs to be sharpened again.  
>  
> This tool isn't ideal because it is not Tempered hardened metal which would keep an edge for a longer time, but it works great when sharp, and it is inexpensive.  One can easily make a batch of perhaps half a dozen in an afternoon, and have a good supply.  After several tools have been made, you can decide which size/s are your personal favorite and then draw a sketch for your local toolmaker to build a carbide one that would last forever.
>  
> I use one like this for any "grunt work" necessary, and then I use an Equaling file, which I have ground the side edges smooth, then glued cork or leather all the way around to create a somewhat softer, contoured surface for strips of sandpaper to wrap around.  I am preferring the soft, tacky, white leather for instrument pads as of late, because two layers glued together with contact cement creates a nice soft contoured surface and the tackiness of the leather allows a nice grippy surface for my sandpaper strips to stay in position during use.  
>  
> With respect to the sandpaper strips, I simply cut strips that are as wide as my tool, and are the full length of my sandpaper.  I start with 150 grit, and move to smoother grades to create the desired surface texture.  This tool has been one of my longtime favorites for its simplicity, and functionality.
>  
> I should mention that for fine work up at the tiprail, I start with rattail files, and then finish with the above tool.
>  
> Brad Behn  www.clarinetmouthpi ece.com
> 
> --- On Sun, 6/14/09, Dan Torosian <dtorosian@sbcglobal .net> wrote:
> 
> 
> From: Dan Torosian <dtorosian@sbcglobal .net>
> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Tools for baffles
> To: MouthpieceWork@ yahoogroups. com
> Date: Sunday, June 14, 2009, 7:55 AM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coarser files (like the tungsten carbide ones from Micro-Mark) or a rotary tool (e.g., Dremel or Foredom) are useful.
> 
> DT
> 
> Steve wrote: 
> 
> 
> I'm wanting to get something that will remove material from plastic and hard rubber baffles quicker than needle or riffler files. Any suggestions?
> Thanks
>