Mouthpiece Work / Dukoff D8
FROM: charvel50 (Ross McIntyre)
SUBJECT: Dukoff D8
I have just finished a Dukoff tenor D8 with an eliptical curve +3 and 1/2. The bottom end is great but the top end is a little thin. I have taken the chamber out like a Guardala and I can't take the baffle down any further. There is a very slight hint of the bite plate showing through. Would a radial curve with more room under the reed at the table end of the reed give more fatter sound? Would it also reduce the back pressure a little? I would like this piece to be free flowing. Hope that somebody can help. thanks Ross McIntyre
FROM: kwbradbury (Keith Bradbury)
SUBJECT: Re: Dukoff D8
IMO a radial curve will make it more free blowing. But the difference is subtle.
As for the high end brightness, I think you are stuck with it. Get another Dukoff with more meat left in the tip.
--- On Mon, 8/18/08, Ross McIntyre <mk6sax@...> wrote:
From: Ross McIntyre <mk6sax@...>
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Dukoff D8
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 6:31 AM
I have just finished a Dukoff tenor D8 with an eliptical curve +3 and
1/2. The bottom end is great but the top end is a little thin. I have
taken the chamber out like a Guardala and I can't take the baffle down
any further. There is a very slight hint of the bite plate showing
through.
Would a radial curve with more room under the reed at the table end of
the reed give more fatter sound? Would it also reduce the back
pressure a little? I would like this piece to be free flowing.
Hope that somebody can help.
thanks
Ross McIntyre
FROM: moeaaron (Barry Isaac Levine)
SUBJECT: Re: Dukoff D8
Just an idea for how to salvage this piece, where Ross can't remove any more baffle near the tip: How thick is the bite plate? (I don't have one of these to look at.) Couldn't Ross build up the bite-plate notch with something like JB Weld, so that he can take the baffle down further. Or even fill the entire bite-plate notch this way. BL > > As for the high end brightness, I think you are stuck with it. Get another > Dukoff with more meat left in the tip. > > --- On Mon, 8/18/08, Ross McIntyre <mk6sax@bigpond.net.au> wrote: > > From: Ross McIntyre <mk6sax@...> > Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Dukoff D8 > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com > Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 6:31 AM > > > > > > > I have just finished a Dukoff tenor D8 with an eliptical curve +3 and > 1/2. The bottom end is great but the top end is a little thin. I have > taken the chamber out like a Guardala and I can't take the baffle down > any further. There is a very slight hint of the bite plate showing > through. > Would a radial curve with more room under the reed at the table end of > the reed give more fatter sound? Would it also reduce the back > pressure a little? I would like this piece to be free flowing. > Hope that somebody can help. > thanks > Ross McIntyre > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
FROM: tenorman1952 (Paul C.)
SUBJECT: Re: Dukoff D8
I've had this same problem with a Dukoff that was already too thin in that area. There is nothing more that can be done.
Paul
Barry Isaac Levine <barrylevine@...> wrote:
Just an idea for how to salvage this piece, where Ross can't remove any more
baffle near the tip:
How thick is the bite plate? (I don't have one of these to look at.)
Couldn't Ross build up the bite-plate notch with something like JB Weld, so
that he can take the baffle down further. Or even fill the entire bite-plate
notch this way.
BL
>
> As for the high end brightness, I think you are stuck with it. Get another
> Dukoff with more meat left in the tip.
>
> --- On Mon, 8/18/08, Ross McIntyre <mk6sax@...> wrote:
>
> From: Ross McIntyre <mk6sax@...>
> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Dukoff D8
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 6:31 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I have just finished a Dukoff tenor D8 with an eliptical curve +3 and
> 1/2. The bottom end is great but the top end is a little thin. I have
> taken the chamber out like a Guardala and I can't take the baffle down
> any further. There is a very slight hint of the bite plate showing
> through.
> Would a radial curve with more room under the reed at the table end of
> the reed give more fatter sound? Would it also reduce the back
> pressure a little? I would like this piece to be free flowing.
> Hope that somebody can help.
> thanks
> Ross McIntyre
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Link to Paul's articles from Main page of "Saxgourmet":
http://www.saxgourmet.com
Listen to Paul's MP3's and view saxophone photos at:
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/tenorman1952
Paul Coats is the sole US importer of SAXRAX products from
http://www.saxrax.com
For SAXRAX products, email Paul at saxraxus@...
FROM: kwbradbury (Keith Bradbury)
SUBJECT: Re: Dukoff D8
Once you start cutting into the bite plate, the metal is so thin you can bend it with your fingers.
--- On Mon, 8/18/08, Barry Isaac Levine <barrylevine@...> wrote:
From: Barry Isaac Levine <barrylevine@norwoodlight.com>
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Dukoff D8
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 1:02 PM
Just an idea for how to salvage this piece, where Ross can't remove any more
baffle near the tip:
How thick is the bite plate? (I don't have one of these to look at.)
Couldn't Ross build up the bite-plate notch with something like JB Weld, so
that he can take the baffle down further. Or even fill the entire bite-plate
notch this way.
BL
>
> As for the high end brightness, I think you are stuck with it. Get another
> Dukoff with more meat left in the tip.
>
> --- On Mon, 8/18/08, Ross McIntyre <mk6sax@bigpond. net.au> wrote:
>
> From: Ross McIntyre <mk6sax@bigpond. net.au>
> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Dukoff D8
> To: MouthpieceWork@ yahoogroups. com
> Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 6:31 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I have just finished a Dukoff tenor D8 with an eliptical curve +3 and
> 1/2. The bottom end is great but the top end is a little thin. I have
> taken the chamber out like a Guardala and I can't take the baffle down
> any further. There is a very slight hint of the bite plate showing
> through.
> Would a radial curve with more room under the reed at the table end of
> the reed give more fatter sound? Would it also reduce the back
> pressure a little? I would like this piece to be free flowing.
> Hope that somebody can help.
> thanks
> Ross McIntyre
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
FROM: moeaaron (Barry Levine)
SUBJECT: Re: Dukoff D8
On metal Links and Ponzols, the top of the beak has a notch about 1mm deep for the bite plate. I have a Link that is in similar condition to Ross's (where the bite plate is starting to show where the baffle has been filed, but it needs more work) and I've been wondering what to do in order to salvage it. Granted that brass is stronger than pewter, otherwise a similar situation, no? I haven't tried anything yet. I've considered the following: I could bond a bite plate made of sheet copper or brass to the beak, thick enough to be flush with the rest of the mouthpiece. This would strengthen the beak and provide some cutting space. After this, however, I would have to use a mouthpiece patch on the piece, though, to avoid teeth-on-metal. Additionally, why not build up the *entire top of the beak* by 1-2 mm with either sheet copper, brass. While this might thicken the mouthpiece beak a little, it beats tossing the piece. A new feature: "laminated beak". And btw, is a Link solid, or is it two halves that have been soldered? I.e., would it fall apart if heated suffiently. I'm thinking about dental grade silver solder. With respect to Ross, what is the situation with soldering a Dukoff (pewter)? Would the piece melt before getting hot enough to solder? > > > Once you start cutting into the bite plate, the metal is so thin you can bend > it with your fingers. > > --- On Mon, 8/18/08, Barry Isaac Levine <barrylevine@...> wrote: > > From: Barry Isaac Levine <barrylevine@...> > Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Dukoff D8 > To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com > Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 1:02 PM > > > > > > > Just an idea for how to salvage this piece, where Ross can't remove any more > baffle near the tip: > > How thick is the bite plate? (I don't have one of these to look at.) > > Couldn't Ross build up the bite-plate notch with something like JB Weld, so > that he can take the baffle down further. Or even fill the entire bite-plate > notch this way. > > BL > >> >> As for the high end brightness, I think you are stuck with it. Get another >> Dukoff with more meat left in the tip. >> >> --- On Mon, 8/18/08, Ross McIntyre <mk6sax@bigpond. net.au> wrote: >> >> From: Ross McIntyre <mk6sax@bigpond. net.au> >> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Dukoff D8 >> To: MouthpieceWork@ yahoogroups. com >> Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 6:31 AM >> >> >> >> >> >> >> I have just finished a Dukoff tenor D8 with an eliptical curve +3 and >> 1/2. The bottom end is great but the top end is a little thin. I have >> taken the chamber out like a Guardala and I can't take the baffle down >> any further. There is a very slight hint of the bite plate showing >> through. >> Would a radial curve with more room under the reed at the table end of >> the reed give more fatter sound? Would it also reduce the back >> pressure a little? I would like this piece to be free flowing. >> Hope that somebody can help. >> thanks >> Ross McIntyre >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
FROM: dantorosian (Dan Torosian)
SUBJECT: Re: Dukoff D8
This html message parsed with html2text ---------------------------I have several Links and a Ponzol (my main tenor mouthpiece actually) on which I took off enough baffle to expose the underside of the biteplate. I don't think playability was affected, they play great. I'm talking about a couple of small triangular spots, not a big swath of plastic showing. Dan T Barry Levine wrote: > On metal Links and Ponzols, the top of the beak has a notch about 1mm deep > for the bite plate. > > I have a Link that is in similar condition to Ross's (where the bite plate > is starting to show where the baffle has been filed, but it needs more > work) > and I've been wondering what to do in order to salvage it. > > Granted that brass is stronger than pewter, otherwise a similar situation, > no? > > I haven't tried anything yet. I've considered the following: > > I could bond a bite plate made of sheet copper or brass to the beak, thick > enough to be flush with the rest of the mouthpiece. This would strengthen > the beak and provide some cutting space. After this, however, I would have > to use a mouthpiece patch on the piece, though, to avoid teeth-on-metal. > > Additionally, why not build up the *entire top of the beak* by 1-2 mm with > either sheet copper, brass. While this might thicken the mouthpiece beak a > little, it beats tossing the piece. > > A new feature: "laminated beak". > > And btw, is a Link solid, or is it two halves that have been soldered? > > I.e., would it fall apart if heated suffiently. I'm thinking about dental > grade silver solder. > > With respect to Ross, what is the situation with soldering a Dukoff > (pewter)? Would the piece melt before getting hot enough to solder? > > > > > > Once you start cutting into the bite plate, the metal is so thin you can > bend > > it with your fingers. > > > > \\--- On Mon, 8/18/08, Barry Isaac Levine > <[barrylevine@norwoodlight.com](mailto:barrylevine%40norwoodlight.com)> > wrote: > > > > From: Barry Isaac Levine > <[barrylevine@norwoodlight.com](mailto:barrylevine%40norwoodlight.com)> > > Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Dukoff D8 > > To: > [MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com](mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com) > > Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 1:02 PM > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Just an idea for how to salvage this piece, where Ross can't remove any > more > > baffle near the tip: > > > > How thick is the bite plate? (I don't have one of these to look at.) > > > > Couldn't Ross build up the bite-plate notch with something like JB Weld, > so > > that he can take the baffle down further. Or even fill the entire bite- > plate > > notch this way. > > > > BL > > > >> > >> As for the high end brightness, I think you are stuck with it. Get > another > >> Dukoff with more meat left in the tip. > >> > >> \\--- On Mon, 8/18/08, Ross McIntyre [](mailto:mk6sax@...) wrote: > >> > >> From: Ross McIntyre [](mailto:mk6sax@...) > >> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Dukoff D8 > >> To: MouthpieceWork@ yahoogroups. com > >> Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 6:31 AM > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> I have just finished a Dukoff tenor D8 with an eliptical curve +3 and > >> 1/2. The bottom end is great but the top end is a little thin. I have > >> taken the chamber out like a Guardala and I can't take the baffle down > >> any further. There is a very slight hint of the bite plate showing > >> through. > >> Would a radial curve with more room under the reed at the table end of > >> the reed give more fatter sound? Would it also reduce the back > >> pressure a little? I would like this piece to be free flowing. > >> Hope that somebody can help. > >> thanks > >> Ross McIntyre > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
FROM: drsax2vette (drsax2vette)
SUBJECT: Re: Dukoff D8
I just finished one of those unfinished Guardala's from Dudley's Auction for a customer and made a small crack in the baffle that went through to the bite plate. I removed the pink plate and just added a little soft solder to fill the gap, sanded it a little on the baffle side and sent it off to have it gold plated. You can't tell it was ever there. I think soft solder would work on the dukoff and it should blend in pretty well if you scuff it up a little with sandpaper.
FROM: zoot51 (Bill Hausmann)
SUBJECT: Re: Dukoff D8
Links are definitely made in two pieces and soldered together.
Bill Hausmann
If you have to mic a saxophone, the rest of the band is TOO LOUD!
--- On Mon, 8/18/08, Barry Levine <barrylevine@...> wrote:
From: Barry Levine <barrylevine@...>
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Dukoff D8
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 6:40 PM
On metal Links and Ponzols, the top of the beak has a notch about 1mm deep
for the bite plate.
I have a Link that is in similar condition to Ross's (where the bite plate
is starting to show where the baffle has been filed, but it needs more work)
and I've been wondering what to do in order to salvage it.
Granted that brass is stronger than pewter, otherwise a similar situation,
no?
I haven't tried anything yet. I've considered the following:
I could bond a bite plate made of sheet copper or brass to the beak, thick
enough to be flush with the rest of the mouthpiece. This would strengthen
the beak and provide some cutting space. After this, however, I would have
to use a mouthpiece patch on the piece, though, to avoid teeth-on-metal.
Additionally, why not build up the *entire top of the beak* by 1-2 mm with
either sheet copper, brass. While this might thicken the mouthpiece beak a
little, it beats tossing the piece.
A new feature: "laminated beak".
And btw, is a Link solid, or is it two halves that have been soldered?
I.e., would it fall apart if heated suffiently. I'm thinking about dental
grade silver solder.
With respect to Ross, what is the situation with soldering a Dukoff
(pewter)? Would the piece melt before getting hot enough to solder?
>
>
> Once you start cutting into the bite plate, the metal is so thin you can
bend
> it with your fingers.
>
> --- On Mon, 8/18/08, Barry Isaac Levine
<barrylevine@...> wrote:
>
> From: Barry Isaac Levine <barrylevine@...>
> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Dukoff D8
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 1:02 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Just an idea for how to salvage this piece, where Ross can't remove
any more
> baffle near the tip:
>
> How thick is the bite plate? (I don't have one of these to look at.)
>
> Couldn't Ross build up the bite-plate notch with something like JB
Weld, so
> that he can take the baffle down further. Or even fill the entire
bite-plate
> notch this way.
>
> BL
>
>>
>> As for the high end brightness, I think you are stuck with it. Get
another
>> Dukoff with more meat left in the tip.
>>
>> --- On Mon, 8/18/08, Ross McIntyre <mk6sax@bigpond. net.au>
wrote:
>>
>> From: Ross McIntyre <mk6sax@bigpond. net.au>
>> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Dukoff D8
>> To: MouthpieceWork@ yahoogroups. com
>> Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 6:31 AM
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I have just finished a Dukoff tenor D8 with an eliptical curve +3 and
>> 1/2. The bottom end is great but the top end is a little thin. I have
>> taken the chamber out like a Guardala and I can't take the baffle
down
>> any further. There is a very slight hint of the bite plate showing
>> through.
>> Would a radial curve with more room under the reed at the table end of
>> the reed give more fatter sound? Would it also reduce the back
>> pressure a little? I would like this piece to be free flowing.
>> Hope that somebody can help.
>> thanks
>> Ross McIntyre
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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FROM: kymarto (kymarto123@...)
SUBJECT: Re: Dukoff D8
IME taking material away from right behind the tip rail will smooth out the highs and make the piece better behaved generally (not so much tendency to chirp and a bit less resistance). It will take the edge off but not really fatten the sound much. Keith, what do you think?
Toby
Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote: IMO a radial curve will make it more free blowing. But the difference is subtle.
As for the high end brightness, I think you are stuck with it. Get another Dukoff with more meat left in the tip.
--- On Mon, 8/18/08, Ross McIntyre <mk6sax@...> wrote:
From: Ross McIntyre <mk6sax@...>
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Dukoff D8
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 6:31 AM
I have just finished a Dukoff tenor D8 with an eliptical curve +3 and
1/2. The bottom end is great but the top end is a little thin. I have
taken the chamber out like a Guardala and I can't take the baffle down
any further. There is a very slight hint of the bite plate showing
through.
Would a radial curve with more room under the reed at the table end of
the reed give more fatter sound? Would it also reduce the back
pressure a little? I would like this piece to be free flowing.
Hope that somebody can help.
thanks
Ross McIntyre
FROM: charvel50 (Ross McIntyre)
SUBJECT: Dukoff D8
For all the members who gave ideas and advice with my questions. Thank you. regards Ross McIntyre
FROM: moeaaron (Barry Levine)
SUBJECT: Re: Dukoff D8
on 8/19/08 12:45 AM, Bill Hausmann at zoot51@... wrote: > Links are definitely made in two pieces and soldered together. > > Bill Hausmann Thanks. Good to know! B
FROM: kwbradbury (Keith Bradbury)
SUBJECT: Re: Dukoff D8
Soft solder will melt a Dukoff Silverite. I have a nasty photo somewhere of someone who tried it. Just use epoxies.
--- On Mon, 8/18/08, drsax2vette <drsax11@...> wrote:
I think soft solder would work on the dukoff and it should blend in
pretty well if you scuff it up a little with sandpaper.
FROM: kwbradbury (Keith Bradbury)
SUBJECT: Re: Dukoff D8
Yes, if there is enough material left to do this.
--- On Tue, 8/19/08, kymarto123@... <kymarto123@...> wrote:
IME taking material away from right behind the tip rail will smooth out the highs and make the piece better behaved generally (not so much tendency to chirp and a bit less resistance). It will take the edge off but not really fatten the sound much. Keith, what do you think?