Keith,

I have an old, Vandoren that I was cleaning up, dropped and broke the
tip off.  I took some pictures, which I couldn't attach here so I am
putting them in the Photos section under "Vandoren".  You can see the
extent of the damage, and the start of my repair effort with Epoxy
Putty which I let dry for 24 hours before starting to work on it.

I did some file work and got it to the point of working on the facing
and tip rail.  When I put it on the surface plate with upside down
paper on the good side and some face up paper on the other side and
started to shape the rails, the whole thing came off.

Is this too much to try, or, what I am thinking is to drill some small
diameter holes and put some metal pins in to give the epoxy some extra
strength.  Is this a viable solution, or do you have a better, easier,
more elegant solution?

Thank you,

David

I just did a GN Brilhart that was a little worse than your Vandoren photos.

What kind of epoxy putty were you using?  "Putty" may not be the best for
holding on in thin sections.

I have had good luck using regular J-B weld (JVW's choice) and Ferree's Jet
Black.  The Jet Black has a shoter shelf life, but is black vs the gray
J-B.  

--- David Kulcinski <dkulcinski@...> wrote:

> Keith,
> 
> I have an old, Vandoren that I was cleaning up, dropped and broke the
> tip off.  I took some pictures, which I couldn't attach here so I am
> putting them in the Photos section under "Vandoren".  You can see the
> extent of the damage, and the start of my repair effort with Epoxy
> Putty which I let dry for 24 hours before starting to work on it.
> 
> I did some file work and got it to the point of working on the facing
> and tip rail.  When I put it on the surface plate with upside down
> paper on the good side and some face up paper on the other side and
> started to shape the rails, the whole thing came off.
> 
> Is this too much to try, or, what I am thinking is to drill some small
> diameter holes and put some metal pins in to give the epoxy some extra
> strength.  Is this a viable solution, or do you have a better, easier,
> more elegant solution?
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> David
> 
> 
> 
> 



      

It is the stuff that Paul C.  suggested from Walmart.  by "shelf life" on the Ferree's, does that mean that, if I'm only repairing one mouthpiece, that I will end up throwing the rest away, or donating it to someone that does many repairs, or are you actually referring to the working time, where I might only have a few minutes before it starts to get hard?

Do you build the whole thing up at once, or put a bit on, let it harden and then put on some more?

Thank you,

David


----- Original Message ----
From: Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...>
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 10:33:06 AM
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Vandoren Tip Repair


I just did a GN Brilhart that was a little worse than your Vandoren photos.

What kind of epoxy putty were you using?  "Putty" may not be the best for
holding on in thin sections.

I have had good luck using regular J-B weld (JVW's choice) and Ferree's Jet
Black.  The Jet Black has a shoter shelf life, but is black vs the gray
J-B. 

--- David Kulcinski <dkulcinski@yahoo. com> wrote:

> Keith,
> 
> I have an old, Vandoren that I was cleaning up, dropped and broke the
> tip off.  I took some pictures, which I couldn't attach here so I am
> putting them in the Photos section under "Vandoren".  You can see the
> extent of the damage, and the start of my repair effort with Epoxy
> Putty which I let dry for 24 hours before starting to work on it.
> 
> I did some file work and got it to the point of working on the facing
> and tip rail.  When I put it on the surface plate with upside down
> paper on the good side and some face up paper on the other side and
> started to shape the rails, the whole thing came off.
> 
> Is this too much to try, or, what I am thinking is to drill some small
> diameter holes and put some metal pins in to give the epoxy some extra
> strength.  Is this a viable solution, or do you have a better, easier,
> more elegant solution?
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> David
> 
> 
> 
> 

    


      

--- David Kulcinski <dkulcinski@...> wrote:

> It is the stuff that Paul C.  suggested from Walmart.  by "shelf life" on
> the Ferree's, does that mean that, if I'm only repairing one mouthpiece,
> that I will end up throwing the rest away, or donating it to someone that
> does many repairs, or are you actually referring to the working time,
> where I might only have a few minutes before it starts to get hard?

The Jet Black and J-B epoxies set up slow.  I use a quick-set stick putty
for most baffles, but never tried it for tip repairs.

The Jet Black may last 6-18 months.  Then one of the components got stiff
on me.  This was years ago.  They came in two small jars, 2" high like jam
samples.  So I had to toss most of it away.  Perhaps the jar lids did not
seal real tight.  

J-B can be purchased in two small tubes.  It lasts for 3+ years.

> 
> Do you build the whole thing up at once, or put a bit on, let it harden
> and then put on some more?

I try to do everything with one mix to save time.  I have a photo spread on
my site, but it is pretty straight-forward.

> 
> Thank you,
> 
> David
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...>
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 10:33:06 AM
> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Vandoren Tip Repair
> 
> 
> I just did a GN Brilhart that was a little worse than your Vandoren
> photos.
> 
> What kind of epoxy putty were you using?  "Putty" may not be the best for
> holding on in thin sections.
> 
> I have had good luck using regular J-B weld (JVW's choice) and Ferree's
> Jet
> Black.  The Jet Black has a shoter shelf life, but is black vs the gray
> J-B. 
> 
> --- David Kulcinski <dkulcinski@yahoo. com> wrote:
> 
> > Keith,
> > 
> > I have an old, Vandoren that I was cleaning up, dropped and broke the
> > tip off.  I took some pictures, which I couldn't attach here so I am
> > putting them in the Photos section under "Vandoren".  You can see the
> > extent of the damage, and the start of my repair effort with Epoxy
> > Putty which I let dry for 24 hours before starting to work on it.
> > 
> > I did some file work and got it to the point of working on the facing
> > and tip rail.  When I put it on the surface plate with upside down
> > paper on the good side and some face up paper on the other side and
> > started to shape the rails, the whole thing came off.
> > 
> > Is this too much to try, or, what I am thinking is to drill some small
> > diameter holes and put some metal pins in to give the epoxy some extra
> > strength.  Is this a viable solution, or do you have a better, easier,
> > more elegant solution?
> > 
> > Thank you,
> > 
> > David
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
>     
> 
> 
>       



      

This html message parsed with html2text ---------------------------It seems like JB Weld would work better for tip repair, since the stick
epoxies tend to be kind of thick and clay-like. I would think the thinner JB
Weld would get into the ins and outs of the repaired section better. it does
take a long time to set up, but I found that it can be molded a little when it
has set for a few hours - it's still malleable, but the surface won't stick to
everything. This saves me a lot of sanding when using it for a baffle (I
generally use the stick stuff for baffles as well, since you can mold it
better).  
  
I've cut "keyhole" shapes into the damaged area of the mouthpiece to help the
repair hold on. I've also used dental acrylic, since it's totally safe. But
it's liquid, and translucent, and needs super ventilation. And while it bonds
to acrylic mouthpieces just perfectly, it can let loose from hard rubber, so
it would probably have to be super-glued in anyway.  
  
Dan T  
  
Keith Bradbury wrote:

>  
>  \\--- David Kulcinski
> <[dkulcinski@yahoo.com](mailto:dkulcinski%40yahoo.com)> wrote:  
>  
>  > It is the stuff that Paul C. suggested from Walmart. by "shelf life" on  
>  > the Ferree's, does that mean that, if I'm only repairing one mouthpiece,  
>  > that I will end up throwing the rest away, or donating it to someone that  
>  > does many repairs, or are you actually referring to the working time,  
>  > where I might only have a few minutes before it starts to get hard?  
>  
>  The Jet Black and J-B epoxies set up slow. I use a quick- set stick putty  
>  for most baffles, but never tried it for tip repairs.  
>  
>  The Jet Black may last 6-18 months. Then one of the components got stiff  
>  on me. This was years ago. They came in two small jars, 2" high like jam  
>  samples. So I had to toss most of it away. Perhaps the jar lids did not  
>  seal real tight.  
>  
>  J-B can be purchased in two small tubes. It lasts for 3+ years.  
>  
>  >  
>  > Do you build the whole thing up at once, or put a bit on, let it harden  
>  > and then put on some more?  
>  
>  I try to do everything with one mix to save time. I have a photo spread on  
>  my site, but it is pretty straight-forward.  
>  
>  >  
>  > Thank you,  
>  >  
>  > David  
>  >  
>  >  
>  > \\----- Original Message ----  
>  > From: Keith Bradbury
> <[kwbradbury@yahoo.com](mailto:kwbradbury%40yahoo.com)>  
>  > To:
> [MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com](mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com)  
>  > Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 10:33:06 AM  
>  > Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Vandoren Tip Repair  
>  >  
>  >  
>  > I just did a GN Brilhart that was a little worse than your Vandoren  
>  > photos.  
>  >  
>  > What kind of epoxy putty were you using? "Putty" may not be the best for  
>  > holding on in thin sections.  
>  >  
>  > I have had good luck using regular J-B weld (JVW's choice) and Ferree's  
>  > Jet  
>  > Black. The Jet Black has a shoter shelf life, but is black vs the gray  
>  > J-B.  
>  >  
>  > \\--- David Kulcinski yahoo. com> wrote:  
>  >  
>  > > Keith,  
>  > >  
>  > > I have an old, Vandoren that I was cleaning up, dropped and broke the  
>  > > tip off. I took some pictures, which I couldn't attach here so I am  
>  > > putting them in the Photos section under "Vandoren". You can see the  
>  > > extent of the damage, and the start of my repair effort with Epoxy  
>  > > Putty which I let dry for 24 hours before starting to work on it.  
>  > >  
>  > > I did some file work and got it to the point of working on the facing  
>  > > and tip rail. When I put it on the surface plate with upside down  
>  > > paper on the good side and some face up paper on the other side and  
>  > > started to shape the rails, the whole thing came off.  
>  > >  
>  > > Is this too much to try, or, what I am thinking is to drill some small  
>  > > diameter holes and put some metal pins in to give the epoxy some extra  
>  > > strength. Is this a viable solution, or do you have a better, easier,  
>  > > more elegant solution?  
>  > >  
>  > > Thank you,  
>  > >  
>  > > David  
>  > >  
>  > >  
>  > >  
>  > >  
>  >  
>  >  
>  >  
>  >  
>  >  
>  
>