We all go through a lot of this.  Ive tried the cheaper grades but it 
leaves annoying grit that interfers with measuring.  Today on a whim I 
tried something else.

I figured that hard rubber just loads the sand paper and then its 
done.  Then I remembered that its wet dry sand paper.  So why not wash 
it?  I put it on the back of a baking sheet, scrubbed it with a kitchen 
sponge scrubby, dried it off with a towel and ironed the (back only)dry.

It works.  However, too hot of a setting will bubble the layers.  3M 
seems to recover the best and takes high temps fine.  

This may seem extreme but I did about 10 sheets in 10 minutes.  At over 
a buck a sheet thats 60+ an hour.  I also hate waste.  I was inspired 
to do this when the cost in my local hardware store increased 15 
percent in 2 weeks.  Yea, Im cheap...but it works. 

This html message parsed with html2text ---------------------------While I wasn't thinking along the lines of recycling, I was about to post a
question about cheap sandpaper. I had bought a whole bunch online and while it
works fine, it's a little coarser than what I was getting at the hardware
store, and throws off a lot of grit. But it was many, many times cheaper than
what I had been paying.  
  
So, does anyone have a source for good deals on larger packs of decent-quality
sandpaper (like 40 to a box or so)?  
  
I also bought some of the mylar-backed stuff that Keith recommended for table
flattening (I got both adhesive backed and regular). They were expensive, but
they last a really, really long time. I may just start using these for
everything (not just for flattening the table). Or I may start recycling...  
  
Dan T  
  
sigmund451 wrote:

> We all go through a lot of this. Ive tried the cheaper grades but it  
>  leaves annoying grit that interfers with measuring. Today on a whim I  
>  tried something else.  
>  
>  I figured that hard rubber just loads the sand paper and then its  
>  done. Then I remembered that its wet dry sand paper. So why not wash  
>  it? I put it on the back of a baking sheet, scrubbed it with a kitchen  
>  sponge scrubby, dried it off with a towel and ironed the (back only)dry.  
>  
>  It works. However, too hot of a setting will bubble the layers. 3M  
>  seems to recover the best and takes high temps fine.  
>  
>  This may seem extreme but I did about 10 sheets in 10 minutes. At over  
>  a buck a sheet thats 60+ an hour. I also hate waste. I was inspired  
>  to do this when the cost in my local hardware store increased 15  
>  percent in 2 weeks. Yea, Im cheap...but it works.  
>  
>

>I also bought some of the mylar-backed stuff that Keith recommended
fortable flattening (I got both adhesive backed and regular).  They were
expensive, but they last a really, really long time.  

I still use the adheasive Mylar-backed sandpaper.  You can vacuum it off
many times and get good life from it.  My only annoyance is that the
adheasive usually leaves patches on the glass after I peel it off.  Then I
need to use laquer thinner to remove it before putting on a fresh sheet.  I
have also found that a laminate roller helps when putting down a fresh
sheet.  Otherwise it is easy to trap bubbles as you lay it down.

Before finding the Mylar paper, I went through a phase where I tried using
wet sand paper.  I would keep a tub of water next to me to rinse off the
paper as it built up with "dust".  I was also using the water to help hold
down the edges of the paper.  Sometimes it still curled.  

The table finish came out real nice with wet paper.  But I found facing
work more difficult and not worth the water mess on the bench.


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Where does one get the Mylar backed sand paper. I dont want the 
adhesive stuff but if it really lasts it would be great.  

Id think working with water on the bench would just be a hassle.  
Maybe we need to design a refacers hot tub...clean the sand paper, 
reduce stress, and make life easy on tired hand and arm muscles : )

The only problem I found with rinsing the sand paper is that you 
really would have to keep track of what was used for HR and Metal 
since metal wears rather than just loading.


--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury 
<kwbradbury@...> wrote:
>
> >I also bought some of the mylar-backed stuff that Keith recommended
> fortable flattening (I got both adhesive backed and regular).  They 
were
> expensive, but they last a really, really long time.  
> 
> I still use the adheasive Mylar-backed sandpaper.  You can vacuum 
it off
> many times and get good life from it.  My only annoyance is that the
> adheasive usually leaves patches on the glass after I peel it off.  
Then I
> need to use laquer thinner to remove it before putting on a fresh 
sheet.  I
> have also found that a laminate roller helps when putting down a 
fresh
> sheet.  Otherwise it is easy to trap bubbles as you lay it down.
> 
> Before finding the Mylar paper, I went through a phase where I 
tried using
> wet sand paper.  I would keep a tub of water next to me to rinse 
off the
> paper as it built up with "dust".  I was also using the water to 
help hold
> down the edges of the paper.  Sometimes it still curled.  
> 
> The table finish came out real nice with wet paper.  But I found 
facing
> work more difficult and not worth the water mess on the bench.
> 
> 
>       
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> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>