Hello all,

I've read a good majority of the material on this site and I'm having
trouble finding something on the actual facing.  I've been able to
successfully flatten tables with even pressure now.  I feel my next
step is accurately executing a facing curve.  I know the numbers I
want to get, but getting them is another matter all together.  

I bought the morgan kit and the booklet explains that you get close to
your goals by creating five flat spots on the facing.  Then you smooth
it out and get it to your goals with your finishing cuts.  My problem
has been that I can't work on one area without effecting the two
surrounding areas.  Am I going about this incorrectly?  Should I not
be trying to isolate one spot of the facing curve and instead work 3
areas assuming one will change another?

If anyone can please help me out it would be great.  If anyone could
explain  what has been working for you or how you got over this hump I
would greatly appreciate it.  I really want to be able to do this well.

Thanks

Josh

This html message parsed with html2text ---------------------------There are a lot of ways to do this. I look at how far each reading is from the
target number. If there's an area that's much farther away from the targets -
indicating a "bump" or high spot on the facing - I start by working on that
area. The smaller feeler gauges will change their readings faster, since
removing just a little material will allow that small gauge to slide down the
facing quite a bit more. So I don't worry if the .0015 and .005 readings are
farther from the targets; they'll come into line with less sanding. Eventually
I pull the whole facing (or most of it, if the tip or break point is close to
target) across the sandpaper, rolling the mouthpiece from the break point to
the tip as it goes across the sandpaper. Check measurements frequently and
zero in on remaining high spots.  
  
Dan T  
  
  
bigjujumon wrote:

> Hello all,  
>  
>  I've read a good majority of the material on this site and I'm having  
>  trouble finding something on the actual facing. I've been able to  
>  successfully flatten tables with even pressure now. I feel my next  
>  step is accurately executing a facing curve. I know the numbers I  
>  want to get, but getting them is another matter all together.  
>  
>  I bought the morgan kit and the booklet explains that you get close to  
>  your goals by creating five flat spots on the facing. Then you smooth  
>  it out and get it to your goals with your finishing cuts. My problem  
>  has been that I can't work on one area without effecting the two  
>  surrounding areas. Am I going about this incorrectly? Should I not  
>  be trying to isolate one spot of the facing curve and instead work 3  
>  areas assuming one will change another?  
>  
>  If anyone can please help me out it would be great. If anyone could  
>  explain what has been working for you or how you got over this hump I  
>  would greatly appreciate it. I really want to be able to do this well.  
>  
>  Thanks  
>  
>  Josh  
>  
>

I agree with Dan.  I first tried using the one-reading-at-a-time method
that is suggested in the Erick Brand manual.  I think it works a little
better if you start at the tip.  But I still got flat spots (even when the
readings were on target) and often messed up neighboring readings.

So I now approach the entire curve as a whole.  After taking a set of
readings, I mark the side of the mouthpiece with a pencil or black marker
to indicate sections and spots I want to focus on.  Sometimes I mark a spot
I want to stay away from since it is a low spot. 

It sometimes helps to scribble some marker/pencil on the rail surfaces too.
 This way when you make your next pass on the sand paper, you can more
easily see if you are hitting the right spot by comparing the scuff to your
marks on the side of the mouthpiece.  


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and 
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 

This is what I currently do.

Like Keith, I take a pencil or marker and color the area on the rails I want
to take down so I can be sure that I'm removing material from the location
desired. I also mark that zone on the side of the mpc; then when sliding the
mouthpiece on an abrasive surface, I can eyeball that the mouthpiece is
making contact in the zone desired.

I've also tried adjusting the facing with the rails facing upward, using an
emery block; it's easier to see where material is being removed, but
requires special care to keep the abrasive level and remove material evenly
and flat on both sides (when that is desired); and much more difficult to
remove material from one rail and not to tilt or round its surface ever so
slightly.  Therefore I consider this is more of an interim step, that
necessitates further finishing, and a somewhat dicey method.

BL

-- 
http://users.norwoodlight.com/barrylevine


> From: "bigjujumon" <bigjujumon@...>
> Reply-To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 21:13:25 -0000
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [MouthpieceWork] accurately cutting a facing curve...
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I've read a good majority of the material on this site and I'm having
> trouble finding something on the actual facing.  I've been able to
> successfully flatten tables with even pressure now.  I feel my next
> step is accurately executing a facing curve.  I know the numbers I
> want to get, but getting them is another matter all together.
> 
> I bought the morgan kit and the booklet explains that you get close to
> your goals by creating five flat spots on the facing.  Then you smooth
> it out and get it to your goals with your finishing cuts.  My problem
> has been that I can't work on one area without effecting the two
> surrounding areas.  Am I going about this incorrectly?  Should I not
> be trying to isolate one spot of the facing curve and instead work 3
> areas assuming one will change another?
> 
> If anyone can please help me out it would be great.  If anyone could
> explain  what has been working for you or how you got over this hump I
> would greatly appreciate it.  I really want to be able to do this well.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Josh
> 
> 

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury 
<kwbradbury@...> wrote:
>
I use a white grease pencil sold for seamstress work that is well 
sharpened instead of a standard pencil.  The visibility factor is 
very much better against hard rubber.  The thin point marker works 
best for metal. 


> So I now approach the entire curve as a whole.  After taking a set 
of
> readings, I mark the side of the mouthpiece with a pencil or black 
marker
> to indicate sections and spots I want to focus on.  Sometimes I 
mark a spot
> I want to stay away from since it is a low spot. 
> 
> It sometimes helps to scribble some marker/pencil on the rail 
surfaces too.
>  This way when you make your next pass on the sand paper, you can 
more
> easily see if you are hitting the right spot by comparing the scuff 
to your
> marks on the side of the mouthpiece.  
> 
> 
>       
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Be a better friend, newshound, and 
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>