Mouthpiece Work / Forming the tip rail
FROM: saxgourmet (STEVE GOODSON)
SUBJECT: Forming the tip rail
I'd appreciate some tips on forming a proper tip rail. I find this to be the most elusive part of the craft. I believe I'm spending too much time to get proper results, and need, at the very least, a "refresher course". <http://www.nationofmusic.com/ecommerce/> PLEASE VISIT MY WEB SITES http://www.orpheusmusic.com <http://www.orpheusmusic.com/> http://stevegoodsonsaxophones.com <http://stevegoodsonsaxophones.com/> http://www.nationofmusic.com <http://www.nationofmusic.com/> http://www.saxnation.com/forum/ http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/SaxophoneRepair/ http://www.saxgourmet.com <http://www.saxgourmet.com/> <http://www.cafepress.com/saxgourmet> http://www.cafepress.com/saxgourmet <http://saxophonethoughts.blogspot.com/> http://saxophonethoughts.blogspot.com/ The Music Business is a cruel and shallow money trench, a long plastic hallway where thieves and pimps run free and good men die like dogs. There's also a negative side." Hunter S. Thompson Steve Goodson see our TERMS OF SERVICE at: http://saxgourmet.com/business.html Confidentiality Statement "The information contained in this electronic message is privileged and confidential information intended only for the use of the owner of the email address listed as the recipient of this message. If you are not the intended recipient, or the employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, dissemination, distribution, forwarding, or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited."
FROM: jimmitch47 (jimmitch47)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, " STEVE GOODSON"
<saxgourmet@...> wrote:
>
> I'd appreciate some tips on forming a proper tip rail. I find
this to be
> the most elusive part of the craft. I believe I'm spending too much
time to
> get
> proper results, and need, at the very least, a "
>
> http://stevegoodsonsaxophones.com
<http://stevegoodsonsaxophones.com/
> I find that using a very sharp knife to shape the tip rail
works well for me, Steve.I think it's one of the harder parts to get
to look good.That said I have done pieces that the tip didn't look
the best but it played great.My first rule is if it plays great I'm
done with it.I have gone after that little bit more and had to start
over. Now I stop when it plays the way I want it
to.
>Jim
FROM: mikolekaar (Mikole Kaar)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
Hey Steve,
I use the flat side of the half round file that comes to a point if you know which one I mean.I use an up and down motion and I slowly move from one side of the tip to the other as needed.You can make that tip rail as thin as you choose quickly and accurately and it'll look pertty too.Nice to hear from you.
Regards,
Mikole Kaar
STEVE GOODSON <saxgourmet@...> wrote:
I'd appreciate some tips on forming a proper tip rail. I find this to be the most elusive part of the craft. I believe I'm spending too much time to get
proper results, and need, at the very least, a "refresher course".
PLEASE VISIT MY WEB SITES
http://www.orpheusmusic.com
http://stevegoodsonsaxophones.com
http://www.nationofmusic.com
http://www.saxnation.com/forum/
http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/SaxophoneRepair/
http://www.saxgourmet.com
http://www.cafepress.com/saxgourmet
http://saxophonethoughts.blogspot.com/
The Music Business is a cruel and shallow money trench, a long plastic hallway where thieves and pimps run free and good men die like dogs. There's also a negative side." Hunter S. Thompson
Steve Goodson
see our TERMS OF SERVICE at:
http://saxgourmet.com/business.html
Confidentiality Statement "The information contained in this electronic message is privileged and confidential information intended only for the use of the owner of the email address listed as the recipient of this message. If you are not the intended recipient, or the employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, dissemination, distribution, forwarding, or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited."
Mikole E. Kaar
http://www.myspace.com/mikolekaarmusic
http://www.youtube.com/mikolekaar
Jazz Woodwinds
Saxes, Clarinets, Bassoon, Flute
(760) 568-1038
---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
FROM: tenorman1952 (Paul C.)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
I use the same type of file, and move the file in a diagonal direction starting at the corners and moving toward the middle. This helps keep from filing flats and having a very crooked tip rail.
The mouthpiece must be held firmly at a steady angle. I lay it flat on the workbench.
Then the file is held at a contant angle.
After the tip rail is established with a very shallow angle to the tip rail proper, the angle of the file is increased and the next area of the baffle is filed. Then the angle is increased again, and another area is filed. Sort of like a "3 angle valve job" on cylinder heads.
Finally the three or four angled areas of the baffle are sanded smooth and rounded gently by using 600 grit paper. I tear off little strips about 3/16" wide and place them under by thumb against the area to be sanded, then pull the paper out from under my thumb with the other hand. I change paper frequently, after every 2 or three strokes, and work the baffle until it is smoothly rounded behind the tip rail. I don't touch the tip rail with the paper (a) because there is no thumb pressure there and (b) I pull the paper at a greater angle than the tip rail so as not to touch it.
Then I repeat the process with 800, then 1000 paper.
For metal mouthpieces I use 320, 400, 600 paper.
Then I polish the baffle with a little home made tool. This is a 5/16" diameter wood dowel, with a flat side about 3/4" long on one side on the end. To that flat I have glued a piece of 1/6" thick cork, and on that I have glued a piece of chamois. I put a little Kit Scratch Out polishing compound (automotive plexiglass polish) on the chamois and polish the baffle.
Finally, I polish the table and facing.
Turn a used piece of silicon carbide paper on your work surface grit side down. We will use the back side of the paper. There is enough very fine carbide residue in the paper to do the job. Just a few stroke on the table will bring it to a high shine. Then one or two light strokes on the side and tip rails will have them bright and polished, too.
Then I polish the outside of the mouthpiece with the Scratch Out, using a soft cloth (an old T-shirt) by hand, no buffing wheel here. Not necessary, but the customer likes getting back a nice looking mouthpiece.
Then I wash all of the compound off with lukewarm water and a little dishwashing soap, and make sure the chamber is clean by using a Gerber Baby Bottle Nipple Brush. Why that brush? Because there is plastic on the wire shank of the brush, which prevents scratching the facing. And these are cheap and easy to get at any grocery store.
Paul Coats
Mikole Kaar <mikolekaar@...> wrote:
Hey Steve,
I use the flat side of the half round file that comes to a point if you know which one I mean.I use an up and down motion and I slowly move from one side of the tip to the other as needed.You can make that tip rail as thin as you choose quickly and accurately and it'll look pertty too.Nice to hear from you.
Regards,
Mikole Kaar
STEVE GOODSON <saxgourmet@...> wrote:
I'd appreciate some tips on forming a proper tip rail. I find this to be the most elusive part of the craft. I believe I'm spending too much time to get
proper results, and need, at the very least, a "refresher course".
PLEASE VISIT MY WEB SITES
http://www.orpheusmusic.com
http://stevegoodsonsaxophones.com
http://www.nationofmusic.com
http://www.saxnation.com/forum/
http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/SaxophoneRepair/
http://www.saxgourmet.com
http://www.cafepress.com/saxgourmet
http://saxophonethoughts.blogspot.com/
The Music Business is a cruel and shallow money trench, a long plastic hallway where thieves and pimps run free and good men die like dogs. There's also a negative side." Hunter S. Thompson
Steve Goodson
see our TERMS OF SERVICE at:
http://saxgourmet.com/business.html
Confidentiality Statement "The information contained in this electronic message is privileged and confidential information intended only for the use of the owner of the email address listed as the recipient of this message. If you are not the intended recipient, or the employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, dissemination, distribution, forwarding, or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited."
Mikole E. Kaar
http://www.myspace.com/mikolekaarmusic
http://www.youtube.com/mikolekaar
Jazz Woodwinds
Saxes, Clarinets, Bassoon, Flute
(760) 568-1038
---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
Link to Paul's articles from Main page of "Saxgourmet":
http://www.saxgourmet.com
Listen to Paul's MP3's and view saxophone photos at:
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/tenorman1952
Paul Coats is the sole US importer of SAXRAX products from
http://www.saxrax.com
For SAXRAX products, email Paul at saxraxus@...
---------------------------------
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FROM: charvel50 (Ross and Helen McIntyre)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
Good call Steve. The corners are sometimes a problem with me. cheers Ross www.saxman.com.au
FROM: kymarto (kymarto123@...)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
I do it differently than these guys to some extent. After opening the tip I use a small half-round file in the middle and needle file at the corners just behind the tip to define the tip rail. I've found diamond files to work well on stainless steel and normal files good on hard rubber and plastic
for a first go. My first cuts are only to define the edge of the tip rail, then I increase the angle and cut deeper. I've found that taking material away from just behind the rail is important to a well-behaved mpc and seriously limits the tendency to chirp, especially with high-baffle pieces.
Afterwards I use either double-sided tape on the blunt end of a needle file wrapped with progressively finer grit sandpapers or adhesive-backed sandpaper on same to smooth off the file marks and eventually polish the filed area. You can also just wrap the paper around the round handle and hold it
there with finger pressure, which makes it very easy to simply move the paper a bit to get to a fresh area when the grit becomes clogged (which is very quick with finer grits especially).
A couple of wraps of that soft plastic insulating polyethylene sheeting used to wrap butter and whatnot from the supermarket on the file handle, then wrapped with the sandpaper, is much more precise than a finger behind sandpaper for polishing the baffle, but don't use it just behind the tip rail
since it tends to blunt the edge that you just worked so hard to define. It is easy to simply peel off the strip of old paper and replace when clogged, and you have very good control with this kind of "sandpaper brush".
At the end of all a couple of swipes of the facing on very fine grit (1200 or so) paper makes a nice-looking edge of the tip rail.
That's what works for me.
Toby
"Paul C." <tenorman1952@...> wrote:
I use the same type of file, and move the file in a diagonal direction starting at the corners and moving toward the middle. This helps keep from filing flats and having a very crooked tip rail.
The mouthpiece must be held firmly at a steady angle. I lay it flat on the workbench.
Then the file is held at a contant angle.
After the tip rail is established with a very shallow angle to the tip rail proper, the angle of the file is increased and the next area of the baffle is filed. Then the angle is increased again, and another area is filed. Sort of like a "3 angle valve job" on cylinder heads.
Finally the three or four angled areas of the baffle are sanded smooth and rounded gently by using 600 grit paper. I tear off little strips about 3/16" wide and place them under by thumb against the area to be sanded, then pull the paper out from under my thumb with the other hand. I change
paper frequently, after every 2 or three strokes, and work the baffle until it is smoothly rounded behind the tip rail. I don't touch the tip rail with the paper (a) because there is no thumb pressure there and (b) I pull the paper at a greater angle than the tip rail so as not to touch it.
Then I repeat the process with 800, then 1000 paper.
For metal mouthpieces I use 320, 400, 600 paper.
Then I polish the baffle with a little home made tool. This is a 5/16" diameter wood dowel, with a flat side about 3/4" long on one side on the end. To that flat I have glued a piece of 1/6" thick cork, and on that I have glued a piece of chamois. I put a little Kit Scratch Out polishing
compound (automotive plexiglass polish) on the chamois and polish the baffle.
Finally, I polish the table and facing.
Turn a used piece of silicon carbide paper on your work surface grit side down. We will use the back side of the paper. There is enough very fine carbide residue in the paper to do the job. Just a few stroke on the table will bring it to a high shine. Then one or two light strokes on the
side and tip rails will have them bright and polished, too.
Then I polish the outside of the mouthpiece with the Scratch Out, using a soft cloth (an old T-shirt) by hand, no buffing wheel here. Not necessary, but the customer likes getting back a nice looking mouthpiece.
Then I wash all of the compound off with lukewarm water and a little dishwashing soap, and make sure the chamber is clean by using a Gerber Baby Bottle Nipple Brush. Why that brush? Because there is plastic on the wire shank of the brush, which prevents scratching the facing. And these are
cheap and easy to get at any grocery store.
Paul Coats
Mikole Kaar <mikolekaar@...> wrote:
Hey Steve,
I use the flat side of the half round file that comes to a point if you know which one I mean.I use an up and down motion and I slowly move from one side of the tip to the other as needed.You can make that tip rail as thin as you choose quickly and accurately and it'll look pertty too.Nice to
hear from you.
Regards,
Mikole Kaar
STEVE GOODSON <saxgourmet@...> wrote:
I'd appreciate some tips on forming a proper tip rail. I find this to be the most elusive part of the craft. I believe I'm spending too much time to get
proper results, and need, at the very least, a "refresher course".
PLEASE VISIT MY WEB SITES
http://www.orpheusmusic.com
http://stevegoodsonsaxophones.com
http://www.nationofmusic.com
http://www.saxnation.com/forum/
http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/SaxophoneRepair/
http://www.saxgourmet.com
http://www.cafepress.com/saxgourmet
http://saxophonethoughts.blogspot.com/
The Music Business is a cruel and shallow money trench, a long plastic hallway where thieves and pimps run free and good men die like dogs. There's also a negative side." Hunter S. Thompson
Steve Goodson
see our TERMS OF SERVICE at:
http://saxgourmet.com/business.html
Confidentiality Statement "The information contained in this electronic message is privileged and confidential information intended only for the use of the owner of the email address listed as the recipient of this message. If you are not the intended recipient, or the employee or agent
responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, dissemination, distribution, forwarding, or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited."
Mikole E. Kaar
http://www.myspace.com/mikolekaarmusic
http://www.youtube.com/mikolekaar
Jazz Woodwinds
Saxes, Clarinets, Bassoon, Flute
(760) 568-1038
---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
Link to Paul's articles from Main page of "Saxgourmet":
http://www.saxgourmet.com
Listen to Paul's MP3's and view saxophone photos at:
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/tenorman1952
Paul Coats is the sole US importer of SAXRAX products from
http://www.saxrax.com
For SAXRAX products, email Paul at saxraxus@...
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
FROM: mikolekaar (Mikole Kaar)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
I am looking for some small fine grit diamond fines.Can you tell me where you get your?
Mikole Kaar
kymarto123@... wrote:
I do it differently than these guys to some extent. After opening the tip I use a small half-round file in the middle and needle file at the corners just behind the tip to define the tip rail. I've found diamond files to work well on stainless steel and normal files good on hard rubber and plastic for a first go. My first cuts are only to define the edge of the tip rail, then I increase the angle and cut deeper. I've found that taking material away from just behind the rail is important to a well-behaved mpc and seriously limits the tendency to chirp, especially with high-baffle pieces.
Afterwards I use either double-sided tape on the blunt end of a needle file wrapped with progressively finer grit sandpapers or adhesive-backed sandpaper on same to smooth off the file marks and eventually polish the filed area. You can also just wrap the paper around the round handle and hold it there with finger pressure, which makes it very easy to simply move the paper a bit to get to a fresh area when the grit becomes clogged (which is very quick with finer grits especially).
A couple of wraps of that soft plastic insulating polyethylene sheeting used to wrap butter and whatnot from the supermarket on the file handle, then wrapped with the sandpaper, is much more precise than a finger behind sandpaper for polishing the baffle, but don't use it just behind the tip rail since it tends to blunt the edge that you just worked so hard to define. It is easy to simply peel off the strip of old paper and replace when clogged, and you have very good control with this kind of "sandpaper brush".
At the end of all a couple of swipes of the facing on very fine grit (1200 or so) paper makes a nice-looking edge of the tip rail.
That's what works for me.
Toby
"Paul C." <tenorman1952@...> wrote:
I use the same type of file, and move the file in a diagonal direction starting at the corners and moving toward the middle. This helps keep from filing flats and having a very crooked tip rail.
The mouthpiece must be held firmly at a steady angle. I lay it flat on the workbench.
Then the file is held at a contant angle.
After the tip rail is established with a very shallow angle to the tip rail proper, the angle of the file is increased and the next area of the baffle is filed. Then the angle is increased again, and another area is filed. Sort of like a "3 angle valve job" on cylinder heads.
Finally the three or four angled areas of the baffle are sanded smooth and rounded gently by using 600 grit paper. I tear off little strips about 3/16" wide and place them under by thumb against the area to be sanded, then pull the paper out from under my thumb with the other hand. I change paper frequently, after every 2 or three strokes, and work the baffle until it is smoothly rounded behind the tip rail. I don't touch the tip rail with the paper (a) because there is no thumb pressure there and (b) I pull the paper at a greater angle than the tip rail so as not to touch it.
Then I repeat the process with 800, then 1000 paper.
For metal mouthpieces I use 320, 400, 600 paper.
Then I polish the baffle with a little home made tool. This is a 5/16" diameter wood dowel, with a flat side about 3/4" long on one side on the end. To that flat I have glued a piece of 1/6" thick cork, and on that I have glued a piece of chamois. I put a little Kit Scratch Out polishing compound (automotive plexiglass polish) on the chamois and polish the baffle.
Finally, I polish the table and facing.
Turn a used piece of silicon carbide paper on your work surface grit side down. We will use the back side of the paper. There is enough very fine carbide residue in the paper to do the job. Just a few stroke on the table will bring it to a high shine. Then one or two light strokes on the side and tip rails will have them bright and polished, too.
Then I polish the outside of the mouthpiece with the Scratch Out, using a soft cloth (an old T-shirt) by hand, no buffing wheel here. Not necessary, but the customer likes getting back a nice looking mouthpiece.
Then I wash all of the compound off with lukewarm water and a little dishwashing soap, and make sure the chamber is clean by using a Gerber Baby Bottle Nipple Brush. Why that brush? Because there is plastic on the wire shank of the brush, which prevents scratching the facing. And these are cheap and easy to get at any grocery store.
Paul Coats
Mikole Kaar <mikolekaar@...> wrote:
Hey Steve,
I use the flat side of the half round file that comes to a point if you know which one I mean.I use an up and down motion and I slowly move from one side of the tip to the other as needed.You can make that tip rail as thin as you choose quickly and accurately and it'll look pertty too.Nice to hear from you.
Regards,
Mikole Kaar
STEVE GOODSON <saxgourmet@...> wrote:
I'd appreciate some tips on forming a proper tip rail. I find this to be the most elusive part of the craft. I believe I'm spending too much time to get
proper results, and need, at the very least, a "refresher course".
PLEASE VISIT MY WEB SITES
http://www.orpheusmusic.com
http://stevegoodsonsaxophones.com
http://www.nationofmusic.com
http://www.saxnation.com/forum/
http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/SaxophoneRepair/
http://www.saxgourmet.com
http://www.cafepress.com/saxgourmet
http://saxophonethoughts.blogspot.com/
The Music Business is a cruel and shallow money trench, a long plastic hallway where thieves and pimps run free and good men die like dogs. There's also a negative side." Hunter S. Thompson
Steve Goodson
see our TERMS OF SERVICE at:
http://saxgourmet.com/business.html
Confidentiality Statement "The information contained in this electronic message is privileged and confidential information intended only for the use of the owner of the email address listed as the recipient of this message. If you are not the intended recipient, or the employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, dissemination, distribution, forwarding, or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited."
Mikole E. Kaar
http://www.myspace.com/mikolekaarmusic
http://www.youtube.com/mikolekaar
Jazz Woodwinds
Saxes, Clarinets, Bassoon, Flute
(760) 568-1038
---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
Link to Paul's articles from Main page of "Saxgourmet":
http://www.saxgourmet.com
Listen to Paul's MP3's and view saxophone photos at:
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/tenorman1952
Paul Coats is the sole US importer of SAXRAX products from
http://www.saxrax.com
For SAXRAX products, email Paul at saxraxus@...
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Mikole E. Kaar
http://www.myspace.com/mikolekaarmusic
http://www.youtube.com/mikolekaar
Jazz Woodwinds
Saxes, Clarinets, Bassoon, Flute
(760) 568-1038
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
FROM: gregwier (Greg Wier)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Mikole Kaar <mikolekaar@...> wrote: > > I am looking for some small fine grit diamond fines.Can you tell me where you get your? > > >go to www.micromark.com
FROM: kymarto (kymarto123@...)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
In Tokyo we have a chain of "100 yen" shops where I get Chinese-made ones for the equivalent of about 90 US cents each...
Toby
Greg Wier <gregwier@...> wrote: --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Mikole Kaar <mikolekaar@...>
wrote:
>
> I am looking for some small fine grit diamond fines.Can you tell me
where you get your?
>
>
>go to www.micromark.com
FROM: mikolekaar (Mikole Kaar)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
If I send you some money ,can you send me a set of files?If that is possible let me know how much to send,and howyou would like to do this.
Regards, Mikole Kaar
kymarto123@... wrote:
In Tokyo we have a chain of "100 yen" shops where I get Chinese-made ones for the equivalent of about 90 US cents each...
Toby
Greg Wier <gregwier@...> wrote: --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Mikole Kaar <mikolekaar@...>
wrote:
>
> I am looking for some small fine grit diamond fines.Can you tell me
where you get your?
>
>
>go to www.micromark.com
Mikole E. Kaar
http://www.myspace.com/mikolekaarmusic
http://www.youtube.com/mikolekaar
Jazz Woodwinds
Saxes, Clarinets, Bassoon, Flute
(760) 568-1038
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
FROM: kymarto (kymarto123@...)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
I am in Beijing until the end of March, but when I am back in Tokyo I could send you some. There are various sizes and shapes; I have found the needle files and half-round files the most useful, but there are also square needle files, triangular needle files, small flat files, round files, etc.
These are fairly rough grit which tear quite quickly through stainless and brass, but the file marks can be sanded out fairly easily. Why not write me privately at kymarto123@... and we can discuss it further.
Toby
Mikole Kaar <mikolekaar@...> wrote:
If I send you some money ,can you send me a set of files?If that is possible let me know how much to send,and howyou would like to do this.
Regards, Mikole Kaar
kymarto123@... wrote:
In Tokyo we have a chain of "100 yen" shops where I get Chinese-made ones for the equivalent of about 90 US cents each...
Toby
Greg Wier <gregwier@...> wrote: --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Mikole Kaar <mikolekaar@...>
wrote:
>
> I am looking for some small fine grit diamond fines.Can you tell me
where you get your?
>
>
>go to www.micromark.com
Mikole E. Kaar
http://www.myspace.com/mikolekaarmusic
http://www.youtube.com/mikolekaar
Jazz Woodwinds
Saxes, Clarinets, Bassoon, Flute
(760) 568-1038
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
FROM: kwbradbury (Keith Bradbury)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
I found the diamond files sold by Micro-Mark to be too coarse. They leave
very deep scratches.
--- Greg Wier <gregwier@...> wrote:
> --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Mikole Kaar <mikolekaar@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I am looking for some small fine grit diamond fines.Can you tell me
> where you get your?
> >
go to www.micromark.com
____________________________________________________________________________________
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FROM: saxgourmet (STEVE GOODSON)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
I got some very nice ones at Harbor Freight _____ From: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com [mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Keith Bradbury Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 6:14 AM To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Forming the tip rail I found the diamond files sold by Micro-Mark to be too coarse. They leave very deep scratches. --- Greg Wier <gregwier@netscape. <mailto:gregwier%40netscape.com> com> wrote: > --- In MouthpieceWork@ <mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com, Mikole Kaar <mikolekaar@...> > wrote: > > > > I am looking for some small fine grit diamond fines.Can you tell me > where you get your? > > go to www.micromark.com __________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools. <http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping> search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping
FROM: sakshama1 (Sakshama Koloski)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
[ Attachment content not displayed ]
FROM: mikolekaar (Mikole Kaar)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
Hey Steve,
Thereis no Harbor freight where I live.Can you get me a phone number or an e-mail.I'll see if I can find them on the web. Thanks, Mikole Kaar
STEVE GOODSON <saxgourmet@...> wrote:
I got some very nice ones at Harbor Freight
---------------------------------
From: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com [mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Keith Bradbury
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 6:14 AM
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Forming the tip rail
I found the diamond files sold by Micro-Mark to be too coarse. They leave
very deep scratches.
--- Greg Wier <gregwier@...> wrote:
> --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Mikole Kaar <mikolekaar@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I am looking for some small fine grit diamond fines.Can you tell me
> where you get your?
> >
go to www.micromark.com
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FROM: dkulcinski (David Kulcinski)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
1-800-423-2567
www.harborfreight.com
They have a LOT of stuff.
Happy shopping,
David
----- Original Message ----
From: Mikole Kaar <mikolekaar@...>
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 6:06:53 PM
Subject: RE: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Forming the tip rail
Hey Steve,
Thereis no Harbor freight where I live.Can you get me a phone number or an e-mail.I'll see if I can find them on the web. Thanks, Mikole Kaar
STEVE GOODSON <saxgourmet@cox. net> wrote:
I got some very nice ones at Harbor Freight
From:
MouthpieceWork@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:MouthpieceW ork@yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Keith Bradbury
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 6:14 AM
To: MouthpieceWork@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Re: Forming the tip rail
I found the diamond files sold by Micro-Mark to be too coarse. They leave
very deep scratches.
--- Greg Wier <gregwier@netscape. com> wrote:
> --- In MouthpieceWork@ yahoogroups. com, Mikole Kaar <mikolekaar@ ...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I am looking for some small fine grit diamond fines.Can you tell me
> where you get your?
> >
go to
www.micromark. com
____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
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Mikole E. Kaar
http://www.myspace. com/mikolekaarmu sic
http://www.youtube. com/mikolekaar
Jazz Woodwinds
Saxes, Clarinets, Bassoon, Flute
(760) 568-1038
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FROM: flemingml2000 (flemingml2000)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
"I found the diamond files sold by Micro-Mark to be too coarse" They remove a lot of material quickly, which can be good or bad. I then shift to a finer grade home-made finishing tool. I contact cement whatever grit sandpaper I want to an old reed split to a width that fits. I can determine the grit, width, "reed strength" (flex) that I want. Usually, I have to trim about 1/8th inch off the end as it is too flexible and will break off. I can make the sandpaper wider than the split reed so that it wraps up and around for getting into corners. I can use wet or dry paper. I can make about three "tools" from a reed, so 120, 400, 600 grit is a good combo. And the price is right. Mark (not Micro-Mark)
FROM: dshapko ()
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
Working on restoring/refacing of a Tone Master NY tenor mpc that had a badly shaped uneven tip rail and very crocked bumpy curve - someone was trying to open it up from 6* to 0.110" to no success. I've closed it down to 0,105", after correcting closing down the opening , correcting the curve and shaping, thinning a tip and side rails it plays really good. I know i should maybe leave it like this, but not very happy with cosmetics of a tip rail. I find it very challenging to form / cut the inside corners of a tip rail where tip rail meets the side rails to have better cosmetic finishing looks. ..been using a small half rounded needle file and a sharp scalpel knife, small pieces of fine sand paper rapped around a wooden needle sticks. but not very happy with the results and precision control i am getting in those corners. i am including pics of a tip rail before and after. My Question : How do you guys work on that delicate corners area , what methods n tools do you use ? dimitri
FROM: kwbradbury (Keith Bradbury)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail [2 Attachments]
For inside the corners, I have used several tools. A small pocket knife blade can be used, even on brass. Though some brass is harder than others. A half round Valtitan needle file in a 2 cut is useful for a lot of detail work. I mostly use a 1/8" round riffler file that comes to a point. Like a 4 cut but it is not marked. Got it as part of a set of files from Micro-Mark. PayPal as "Personal, Friend or Family" to: sabradbury79@... Checks made out to "Keith W. Bradbury" Mail to: Mojo Mouthpiece Work LLC 2925 Crane St. Vineland, NJ 08361 > On Oct 22, 2014, at 11:32 AM, jazzroom@gmail.com [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote: > > [Attachment(s) from jazzroom@... [MouthpieceWork] included below] > Working on restoring/refacing of a Tone Master NY tenor mpc that had > a badly shaped uneven tip rail and very crocked bumpy curve - someone was trying to open it up from 6* to 0.110" to no success. > > I've closed it down to 0,105", after correcting closing down the opening , > correcting the curve and shaping, thinning a tip and side rails it plays really good. I know i should maybe leave it like this, but not very happy with > cosmetics of a tip rail. > > I find it very challenging to form / cut the inside corners of a tip rail > where tip rail meets the side rails to have better cosmetic finishing looks. > > ..been using a small half rounded needle file and a sharp scalpel knife, small pieces of fine sand paper rapped around a wooden needle sticks. > but not very happy with the results and precision control i am getting > in those corners. > > i am including pics of a tip rail before and after. > > My Question : > > How do you guys work on that delicate corners area , > what methods n tools do you use ? > > dimitri > > >
FROM: lancelotburt (MartinMods)
SUBJECT: Re: Forming the tip rail
Oval, diamond fileFine emery paper wrapped (one layer) around a .020" feeler gauge to finish
On Friday, October 24, 2014 7:59 AM, "Keith Bradbury kwbradbury@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
For inside the corners, I have used several tools. A small pocket knife blade can be used, even on brass. Though some brass is harder than others.
A half round Valtitan needle file in a 2 cut is useful for a lot of detail work.
I mostly use a 1/8" round riffler file that comes to a point. Like a 4 cut but it is not marked. Got it as part of a set of files from Micro-Mark.
PayPal as "Personal, Friend or Family" to: sabradbury79@... made out to "Keith W. Bradbury"Mail to:Mojo Mouthpiece Work LLC2925 Crane St.Vineland, NJ 08361
On Oct 22, 2014, at 11:32 AM, jazzroom@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Working on restoring/refacing of a Tone Master NY tenor mpc that had a badly shaped uneven tip rail and very crocked bumpy curve - someone was trying to open it up from 6* to 0.110" to no success.
I've closed it down to 0,105", after correcting closing down the opening , correcting the curve and shaping, thinning a tip and side rails it plays really good. I know i should maybe leave it like this, but not very happy with cosmetics of a tip rail.
I find it very challenging to form / cut the inside corners of a tip railwhere tip rail meets the side rails to have better cosmetic finishing looks.
..been using a small half rounded needle file and a sharp scalpel knife, small pieces of fine sand paper rapped around a wooden needle sticks. but not very happy with the results and precision control i am gettingin those corners.
i am including pics of a tip rail before and after.
My Question :
How do you guys work on that delicate corners area , what methods n tools do you use ?
dimitri
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