Is there a brave guy amongst you to start a class for total begginers?
I have been a member for a long time and have read the old posting but 
can not get enough information on how to start mouthpiece work. 
Like a new languaege, it needs to be started from alphabet, i.e tools 
and how to use them etc.

ME TOO
--- joex_us <joex_us@...> wrote:

> Is there a brave guy amongst you to start a class
> for total begginers?
> I have been a member for a long time and have read
> the old posting but 
> can not get enough information on how to start
> mouthpiece work. 
> Like a new languaege, it needs to be started from
> alphabet, i.e tools 
> and how to use them etc.
> 
> 



       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. 
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid96545433

and me

On 12/06/2007, at 12:53 PM, david greding wrote:

> ME TOO
> --- joex_us <joex_us@...> wrote:
>
> > Is there a brave guy amongst you to start a class
> > for total begginers?
> > I have been a member for a long time and have read
> > the old posting but
> > can not get enough information on how to start
> > mouthpiece work.
> > Like a new languaege, it needs to be started from
> > alphabet, i.e tools
> > and how to use them etc.
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from  
> someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
> http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid96545433
>
> 

Thank you for your support guys!, I am sure we can get one of the 
pros like MOJO, Steven, Gwindplyer,,,, to help us to start a new 
class and help us to learn this wonderful work. 
About 5 years ago I asked Freddie Gregory while he was in London to 
let me work for free for him as his health wasn't very good, but he 
didn't want to pass his 40 years experience to someone else. Lets 
hope that we get a better support from one of the professionals in 
this site.

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, david greding 
<dunebug2222@...> wrote:
>
> ME TOO
> --- joex_us <joex_us@...> wrote:
> 
> > Is there a brave guy amongst you to start a class
> > for total begginers?
> > I have been a member for a long time and have read
> > the old posting but 
> > can not get enough information on how to start
> > mouthpiece work. 
> > Like a new languaege, it needs to be started from
> > alphabet, i.e tools 
> > and how to use them etc.
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
>        
> 
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from 
someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. 
> http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid96545433
>

This html message parsed with html2text ---------------------------A few years ago I was a total beginner at this (just read my first posts that
begin with "so I opened up the tip with a file..."), and I have found enough
information in the existing posts and enough answers from the experienced pros
here to become successful at refacing and restoring. It's becoming more and
more of a part of my regular work schedule and many top local pros are happily
playing mouthpieces I've made (from blanks), refaced, or repaired.  
  
I know there's still a lot to learn (I haven't begun to think about what a
parabolic or elliptical curve would entail), and I know that wading through
those posts might not be some people's ideal way to gain this information, but
I do know that I have become a professional, albeit small-scale, refacer over
the last couple of years and all of my technical knowledge has come from the
members of this group. The skill has come from actually working on the
mouthpieces. There is an early post by Mojo that lists a nominal sequence of
steps for working on a mouthpiece (measure, make a plan, flatten the table,
etc.). I posted some "beginner's advice and tools and techniques I've found to
be helpful" at some point.  
  
Everyone learns differently (I'm sure a lot of us teach also and see this
every day!), but I'd spend some more time wading through the archived posts.
It is a gold mine of information.  
  
Dan Torosian  
  
David Bowater wrote:

> and me
>
>  
>
>
> On 12/06/2007, at 12:53 PM, david greding wrote:
>
>  
>
>

>> ME TOO  
>  \\--- joex_us <[joex_us@yahoo.com](mailto:joex_us%40yahoo.com)> wrote:  
>  
>  > Is there a brave guy amongst you to start a class  
>  > for total begginers?  
>  > I have been a member for a long time and have read  
>  > the old posting but  
>  > can not get enough information on how to start  
>  > mouthpiece work.  
>  > Like a new languaege, it needs to be started from  
>  > alphabet, i.e tools  
>  > and how to use them etc.  
>  >  
>  >  
>  
>  __________________________________________________________  
>  Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who
> knows. Yahoo! Answers \\- Check it out.  
>
> [http://answers.](http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid96545433)yahoo.com/dir/?link96545433  
>
>
>  
>
>  
>  
>  
>  
>     * * *
>  
>      No virus found in this incoming message.
>     Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database:
> 269.8.13/844 -
>     Release Date: 6/11/2007 5:10 PM

I was lucky enough to get some lessons from Paul Coats (and I still get a
lesson from Paul every chance I get!) and from Santy Runyon. Virtually
everything Paul and Santy covered with me has been addressed at one time or
another in this forum.
 
That being said, I must admit that it has taken me years to gain the
necessary skills! There is no substitute for practice. I freely admit that
I've ruined hundreds (yes, hundreds) of mouthpieces honing my skills.
 
  _____  

From: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com [mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dan Torosian
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2007 6:49 AM
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Learning the craft



A few years ago I was a total beginner at this (just read my first posts
that begin with "so I opened up the tip with a file..."), and I have found
enough information in the existing posts and enough answers from the
experienced pros here to become successful at refacing and restoring.  It's
becoming more and more of a part of my regular work schedule and many top
local pros are happily playing mouthpieces I've made (from blanks), refaced,
or repaired.

I know there's still a lot to learn (I haven't begun to think about what a
parabolic or elliptical curve would entail), and I know that wading through
those posts might not be some people's ideal way to gain this information,
but I do know that I have become a professional, albeit small-scale, refacer
over the last couple of years and all of my technical knowledge has come
from the members of this group.  The skill has come from actually working on
the mouthpieces.  There is an early post by Mojo that lists a nominal
sequence of steps for working on a mouthpiece (measure, make a plan, flatten
the table, etc.).  I posted some "beginner's advice and tools and techniques
I've found to be helpful" at some point.

Everyone learns differently (I'm sure a lot of us teach also and see this
every day!), but I'd spend some more time wading through the archived posts.
It is a gold mine of information.

Dan Torosian

David Bowater wrote: 


and me


On 12/06/2007, at 12:53 PM, david greding wrote:




ME TOO
--- joex_us < <mailto:joex_us%40yahoo.com> joex_us@...> wrote:

> Is there a brave guy amongst you to start a class
> for total begginers?
> I have been a member for a long time and have read
> the old posting but 
> can not get enough information on how to start
> mouthpiece work. 
> Like a new languaege, it needs to be started from
> alphabet, i.e tools 
> and how to use them etc.
> 
> 

__________________________________________________________
Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who
knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. 
 <http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid96545433>
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link96545433







  _____  


No virus found in this incoming message.

Checked by AVG Free Edition. 

Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.13/844 - Release Date: 6/11/2007
5:10 PM

  

 

Visit the Yahoo MouthpieceWork site.  Go to the message area and read 
post number 9.  This is the one where I suggest getting started by 
getting the basic measuring tools and measuring any mouthpiece you 
can get your hands on.  

Re-reading the post, it holds up well.  Digital calipers can be had 
now for $30 or so.  There have been a few offerings of larger size 
feeler gauges which I recommend over taping smaller sizes together.  
But you can get them later.

I think there is no use working on mouthpiece facings until you can 
consistently measure the same readings within .5 or less on the glass 
gauge.  Otherwise your measurement error might tell you to lower a 
bump that is not really there.

The Files area has a number of useful files to read.  Look under 
Methods for:

Dan Torosian MPWork recap.doc 

Mojo on Reworking Steps.doc 

But do not get ahead of yourself.  I spend 3 months or so just 
measuring and plotting facings.

I, too, would learn.

David

Dan, Steve, Kieth, Gentlemen, I am glad that to get
your attention on this subject, believe me I know that
there is a wealth of information in the past 5 years
postings and I admit that for most of tonight you guys
managed to get me to go back and start reading from
the very first posting, but by the time that I got to
the number 10 I found myself wondering or drifting
away from the subject and start looking on website
pointed out to members in those postings and after a
wee while you just want to leave everything alone and
that's what has happened to me over the past 3 years
of being a member of this group.

I like to let you know that English languages is not
my first language and it takes me a lot longer to read
the postings than I would like to and there are over
5000 of them!!!and please forgive any miss-spellings
or Gram errors that you might find in my writings.

As you can see there are already a small number of
members who would like to have the classes started
from scratch, I am sure there will be more joining in.

You have been with this group from the beginning an d
it is easy to say read the old posting, I can assure
you that we new students will read the posting as we
progress and understand thing better but we need a lot
of help just to get us started.

I noticed that there are 850 members but how many of
them are active and how many of the are like us who
want to be active but can not.

Thanks for listening
Sargon


--- Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:

> Visit the Yahoo MouthpieceWork site.  Go to the
> message area and read 
> post number 9.  This is the one where I suggest
> getting started by 
> getting the basic measuring tools and measuring any
> mouthpiece you 
> can get your hands on.  
> 
> Re-reading the post, it holds up well.  Digital
> calipers can be had 
> now for $30 or so.  There have been a few offerings
> of larger size 
> feeler gauges which I recommend over taping smaller
> sizes together.  
> But you can get them later.
> 
> I think there is no use working on mouthpiece
> facings until you can 
> consistently measure the same readings within .5 or
> less on the glass 
> gauge.  Otherwise your measurement error might tell
> you to lower a 
> bump that is not really there.
> 
> The Files area has a number of useful files to read.
>  Look under 
> Methods for:
> 
> Dan Torosian MPWork recap.doc 
> 
> Mojo on Reworking Steps.doc 
> 
> But do not get ahead of yourself.  I spend 3 months
> or so just 
> measuring and plotting facings.
> 
> 



 
____________________________________________________________________________________
Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check. 
Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta.
http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailbeta/newmail_tools.html 

To those that want to reface I think if you have common sense you can 
do it so get some junk pieces and the Erick Brand Instrument Repair 
book and get going! Until a couple of weeks ago I'd never refaced a mp 
before but once I got the tools I took a HR piece that was thrown in 
with a sax I bought that the seller told me "Doesn't work for me, see 
if you can use it"(I could barely play it)and using the section of the 
EB book on mouthpiece refacing as my guide I took and marked down the 
measurements of my favorite mp and noticed as I went to the feelers on 
the junker that one rail was higher than the other(or one lower)and 
using the method described and illustrated in the book I flattened the 
table,(it definitely needed it)evened the rail heights, put the desired 
facing on the piece and then thinned the tip and side rails. Then I 
cleaned it all up with #0000 steel wool and it looks like new and plays 
great. I've done a previously bad playing plastic piece since with 
equally good results. Point being -you don't need a class -just the 
book and common sense. There is no doubt I have a LOT to learn and I 
have yet to work on any of my $$ pieces but I'm sure I can do it and 
that you guys can too so get some junk pieces, get going and learn by 
doing. 

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "David Kulcinski" 
<dkulcinski@...> wrote:
>
> I, too, would learn.
> 
> David
>From jimmitch47 About a year ago I decided I wanted to reface my own 
mouthpieces.I came across this site I could not find a glass gage or 
large feeler gages.My trade of screen printing helped me to make my own 
glass gage.With that and the help of this site I was able to start 
refacing.Maybe I was Lucky but the pieces I have worked on played 
great.Thats not to say it all when well.The best advice is that if you 
get a piece to play well stop!One more swipe can make it not play.Mojos 
advice to measure and be able to repeat your measurement is so true.I 
worked in machine shops so I was good with these tools.You must work 
with your tools to get the feel for them.

OK, Got the book, read it once, it sounds possible providing I can 
get the tools. 
I am not sure what these abrasive papers are called today:

French emery polishing paper
Pounching paper
Rubber cutting paper

I  have seen the glass gauge on the eBay.

But there is still question of the inside of the mouthpiece, how the 
work is done there and what is used as tools and measurement 
standards?

Sargon



--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "Alan" <cah2nist@...> wrote:
>
> To those that want to reface I think if you have common sense you 
can 
> do it so get some junk pieces and the Erick Brand Instrument Repair 
> book and get going! Until a couple of weeks ago I'd never refaced a 
mp 
> before but once I got the tools I took a HR piece that was thrown 
in 
> with a sax I bought that the seller told me "Doesn't work for me, 
see 
> if you can use it"(I could barely play it)and using the section of 
the 
> EB book on mouthpiece refacing as my guide I took and marked down 
the 
> measurements of my favorite mp and noticed as I went to the feelers 
on 
> the junker that one rail was higher than the other(or one lower)and 
> using the method described and illustrated in the book I flattened 
the 
> table,(it definitely needed it)evened the rail heights, put the 
desired 
> facing on the piece and then thinned the tip and side rails. Then I 
> cleaned it all up with #0000 steel wool and it looks like new and 
plays 
> great. I've done a previously bad playing plastic piece since with 
> equally good results. Point being -you don't need a class -just the 
> book and common sense. There is no doubt I have a LOT to learn and 
I 
> have yet to work on any of my $$ pieces but I'm sure I can do it 
and 
> that you guys can too so get some junk pieces, get going and learn 
by 
> doing.
>

I use common silicon carbide "wet or dry" paper.  This has a black or gray colored grit.
   
  For hard rubber and plastic mouthpieces you will need 600 grit paper for most of your work.  I tear these in half using a metal straight edge.  
   
  You will need lesser amounts of 800 grit, 1000 grit, 1500 grit.  This is for fine polishing, removing scratches, cosmetic work.
   
  For metal mouthpieces, cutting brass, 320 and 400 work best, and finish off with 600.
   
  Paul Coats

joex_us <joex_us@...> wrote:
          OK, Got the book, read it once, it sounds possible providing I can 
get the tools. 
I am not sure what these abrasive papers are called today:

French emery polishing paper
Pounching paper
Rubber cutting paper

I have seen the glass gauge on the eBay.

But there is still question of the inside of the mouthpiece, how the 
work is done there and what is used as tools and measurement 
standards?

Sargon

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "Alan" <cah2nist@...> wrote:
>
> To those that want to reface I think if you have common sense you 
can 
> do it so get some junk pieces and the Erick Brand Instrument Repair 
> book and get going! Until a couple of weeks ago I'd never refaced a 
mp 
> before but once I got the tools I took a HR piece that was thrown 
in 
> with a sax I bought that the seller told me "Doesn't work for me, 
see 
> if you can use it"(I could barely play it)and using the section of 
the 
> EB book on mouthpiece refacing as my guide I took and marked down 
the 
> measurements of my favorite mp and noticed as I went to the feelers 
on 
> the junker that one rail was higher than the other(or one lower)and 
> using the method described and illustrated in the book I flattened 
the 
> table,(it definitely needed it)evened the rail heights, put the 
desired 
> facing on the piece and then thinned the tip and side rails. Then I 
> cleaned it all up with #0000 steel wool and it looks like new and 
plays 
> great. I've done a previously bad playing plastic piece since with 
> equally good results. Point being -you don't need a class -just the 
> book and common sense. There is no doubt I have a LOT to learn and 
I 
> have yet to work on any of my $$ pieces but I'm sure I can do it 
and 
> that you guys can too so get some junk pieces, get going and learn 
by 
> doing.
>



         


Link to Paul's articles from Main page of "Saxgourmet":
		http://www.saxgourmet.com
Listen to Paul's MP3's and view saxophone photos at:
           http://briefcase.yahoo.com/tenorman1952

Paul Coats is the sole US importer of SAXRAX products from 
http://www.saxrax.com 
For SAXRAX products, email Paul at saxraxus@...
 
---------------------------------
The fish are biting.
 Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.

> But there is still question of the inside of the mouthpiece, how the 
> work is done there and what is used as tools and measurement 
> standards?
> 
> Sargon
> 

I think most chamber work is done by eye, no guages.  Beginners usually
start with various files.  You can also wrap sandpaper around files or
stick.  You can glue pads of paper on sticks too.  Extensive chamber work
is usually done using a high speed rotary tool such as a Dremel.  A flex
shaft and a foot-operated variable speed control is also handy to have.

You can get a feel for what different chambers and baffles can do by
comparing a bunch of different mouthpieces.  I think it is also a good
learning experiance to get a large chamber low baffle mouthpiece and try
some shapes inside it using temporary putty.  Dental wax works well but can
be messy to clean out.  Poster-hanging putty comes out cleaner, but does
not hold well to a damp surface.

After you get a feel of what you like, you can try to transfer those shapes
to another mouthpiece.  Use epoxy putty to build up surfaces.  Use tools to
shape it and remove material.  




       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Get the free Yahoo! toolbar and rest assured with the added security of spyware protection.
http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/norton/index.php

Thanks Keith for all the infos. 
I have a rotery tool like Dremel with a felxy cable
but no foot control but the bits that come with it are
not long enough to work inside the mouthpiece without
the machine itself hitting the mpc. Are there any bits
that I can get for it that the rod is long engugh to
work on mpc maybe from the shank area.
The problem that I have is a Berg metal the someone
has already done some work on the baffle and chamber,
the bit that looks like the head of the bullet does
not look right i.e. one side of the bullet shape does
not mirror the other side and I can not modify it from
the front of the mpc  so was thinking to attack it
from the end,,, also the rails are not the same one is
thinner than the other also the inside walls of the
rails are showing some filing marks,,,,,,
God help me!!!

Sargon

--- Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:

> 
> > But there is still question of the inside of the
> mouthpiece, how the 
> > work is done there and what is used as tools and
> measurement 
> > standards?
> > 
> > Sargon
> > 
> 
> I think most chamber work is done by eye, no guages.
>  Beginners usually
> start with various files.  You can also wrap
> sandpaper around files or
> stick.  You can glue pads of paper on sticks too. 
> Extensive chamber work
> is usually done using a high speed rotary tool such
> as a Dremel.  A flex
> shaft and a foot-operated variable speed control is
> also handy to have.
> 
> You can get a feel for what different chambers and
> baffles can do by
> comparing a bunch of different mouthpieces.  I think
> it is also a good
> learning experiance to get a large chamber low
> baffle mouthpiece and try
> some shapes inside it using temporary putty.  Dental
> wax works well but can
> be messy to clean out.  Poster-hanging putty comes
> out cleaner, but does
> not hold well to a damp surface.
> 
> After you get a feel of what you like, you can try
> to transfer those shapes
> to another mouthpiece.  Use epoxy putty to build up
> surfaces.  Use tools to
> shape it and remove material.  
> 
> 
> 
> 
>        
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Get the free Yahoo! toolbar and rest assured with
> the added security of spyware protection.
>
http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/norton/index.php
> 



       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're surfing.
http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/index.php

> Are there any bits
> that I can get for it that the rod is long engugh to
> work on mpc maybe from the shank area.
> The problem that I have is a Berg metal ...

After trying some kits of burrs, I purchased a selection of carbide 
burrs from Shor International.  (The kit burrs are OK for HR, but do 
not hold up on metal mouthpieces.)  Shor is in the Links area.  Most 
burrs are a standard 1.5" long or so.  I do not see the lengths 
listed now, but they used to provide that info.  A few were available 
in a 3" length.  I have a small flame shape in 3" L.

But I avoid using these in SS Bergs.  I'm concerned they may dull.  
They are only around $3 each but I do not want to trash them.  If I 
need to work on a SS chamber, I use grinding points.  I get them from 
Home Depot or wherever.  I do not use them a lot since I quote higher 
prices to work on SS.  I have not seen grinding points in long shaft 
lengths.

I use a flex shaft attachment from Micro-Mark that is thin.  It is 
just a little larger in diameter than a pencil.  It can even reach 
inside from the shank end of a mouthpiece.  All other flex shafts I 
have seen are too large to do this.

Does anyone use riffling files, and do they work well?  I have bee thinking of getting a set.  However, they are expensive and if they don't work . . .

Thank you,

David








  


    
            

> But there is still question of the inside of the mouthpiece, how the 

> work is done there and what is used as tools and measurement 

> standards?

> 

> Sargon

> 



I think most chamber work is done by eye, no guages.  Beginners usually

start with various files.  You can also wrap sandpaper around files or

stick.  You can glue pads of paper on sticks too.  Extensive chamber work

is usually done using a high speed rotary tool such as a Dremel.  A flex

shaft and a foot-operated variable speed control is also handy to have.



You can get a feel for what different chambers and baffles can do by

comparing a bunch of different mouthpieces.  I think it is also a good

learning experiance to get a large chamber low baffle mouthpiece and try

some shapes inside it using temporary putty.  Dental wax works well but can

be messy to clean out.  Poster-hanging putty comes out cleaner, but does

not hold well to a damp surface.



After you get a feel of what you like, you can try to transfer those shapes

to another mouthpiece.  Use epoxy putty to build up surfaces.  Use tools to

shape it and remove material.  



____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _

Get the free Yahoo! toolbar and rest assured with the added security of spyware protection.

http://new.toolbar. yahoo.com/ toolbar/features /norton/index. php



    
  

    
    




<!--

#ygrp-mlmsg {font-size:13px;font-family:arial, helvetica, clean, sans-serif;}
#ygrp-mlmsg table {font-size:inherit;font:100%;}
#ygrp-mlmsg select, input, textarea {font:99% arial, helvetica, clean, sans-serif;}
#ygrp-mlmsg pre, code {font:115% monospace;}
#ygrp-mlmsg * {line-height:1.22em;}
#ygrp-text{
font-family:Georgia;
}
#ygrp-text p{
margin:0 0 1em 0;}
#ygrp-tpmsgs{
font-family:Arial;
clear:both;}
#ygrp-vitnav{
padding-top:10px;font-family:Verdana;font-size:77%;margin:0;}
#ygrp-vitnav a{
padding:0 1px;}
#ygrp-actbar{
clear:both;margin:25px 0;white-space:nowrap;color:#666;text-align:right;}
#ygrp-actbar .left{
float:left;white-space:nowrap;}
.bld{font-weight:bold;}
#ygrp-grft{
font-family:Verdana;font-size:77%;padding:15px 0;}
#ygrp-ft{
font-family:verdana;font-size:77%;border-top:1px solid #666;
padding:5px 0;
}
#ygrp-mlmsg #logo{
padding-bottom:10px;}

#ygrp-vital{
background-color:#e0ecee;margin-bottom:20px;padding:2px 0 8px 8px;}
#ygrp-vital #vithd{
font-size:77%;font-family:Verdana;font-weight:bold;color:#333;text-transform:uppercase;}
#ygrp-vital ul{
padding:0;margin:2px 0;}
#ygrp-vital ul li{
list-style-type:none;clear:both;border:1px solid #e0ecee;
}
#ygrp-vital ul li .ct{
font-weight:bold;color:#ff7900;float:right;width:2em;text-align:right;padding-right:.5em;}
#ygrp-vital ul li .cat{
font-weight:bold;}
#ygrp-vital a {
text-decoration:none;}

#ygrp-vital a:hover{
text-decoration:underline;}

#ygrp-sponsor #hd{
color:#999;font-size:77%;}
#ygrp-sponsor #ov{
padding:6px 13px;background-color:#e0ecee;margin-bottom:20px;}
#ygrp-sponsor #ov ul{
padding:0 0 0 8px;margin:0;}
#ygrp-sponsor #ov li{
list-style-type:square;padding:6px 0;font-size:77%;}
#ygrp-sponsor #ov li a{
text-decoration:none;font-size:130%;}
#ygrp-sponsor #nc {
background-color:#eee;margin-bottom:20px;padding:0 8px;}
#ygrp-sponsor .ad{
padding:8px 0;}
#ygrp-sponsor .ad #hd1{
font-family:Arial;font-weight:bold;color:#628c2a;font-size:100%;line-height:122%;}
#ygrp-sponsor .ad a{
text-decoration:none;}
#ygrp-sponsor .ad a:hover{
text-decoration:underline;}
#ygrp-sponsor .ad p{
margin:0;}
o {font-size:0;}
.MsoNormal {
margin:0 0 0 0;}
#ygrp-text tt{
font-size:120%;}
blockquote{margin:0 0 0 4px;}
.replbq {margin:4;}
-->








       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow  

> Does anyone use riffling files, and do they work well?  I have bee thinking
> of getting a set.  However, they are expensive and if they don't work . . .
>
> Thank you,
>
> David

I find them useful.  You can get an inexpensive but functional set at
www.sciplus.com

Barry

I use a coarse and a fine riffler file sets from Micro-Mark.  They were not
expensive.

I'm interested in a Valitan riffler but I have not seen them.  I have a few
Valitan (Grobet) straight files.  They cost a little more but are very hard
so they stay sharp.


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
http://sims.yahoo.com/  

File sets, also look at 
   
  www.micromark.com
   
  Rather than search the site, which has things you don't know they have and therefore can't search for them, simply fill out the form to be mailed a paper catalog.  It is free.
   
  I promise you that you will find tools you want, for mouthpiece and/or instrument repair.
   
  The catalog is mainly aimed at model builders, specifically, model railroaders.  But aren't the skills very similar?  
   
  I think you will find their quality good and prices acceptable.
   
  While on the site, take a look at their Microlux line of lathe and milling machines.  This is the same minilathe sold my others, but more refined.  It is a 7" x 14" lathe.  It handles up to 14" length, rather than 10" or 12" as with many others.  The accessories for that lathe will also fit the Grizzly, and other similar minilathes.
   
  Paul

Barry Levine <barrylevine@...> wrote:
          > Does anyone use riffling files, and do they work well? I have bee thinking
> of getting a set. However, they are expensive and if they don't work . . .
>
> Thank you,
>
> David

I find them useful. You can get an inexpensive but functional set at
www.sciplus.com

Barry


         


Link to Paul's articles from Main page of "Saxgourmet":
		http://www.saxgourmet.com
Listen to Paul's MP3's and view saxophone photos at:
           http://briefcase.yahoo.com/tenorman1952

Paul Coats is the sole US importer of SAXRAX products from 
http://www.saxrax.com 
For SAXRAX products, email Paul at saxraxus@...
       
---------------------------------
Choose the right car based on your needs.  Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "Paul C." <tenorman1952@...> 
wrote:
>
> File sets, also look at 
>    
>   www.micromark.com
>    
>   Rather than search the site, which has things you don't know they 
have and therefore can't search for them, simply fill out the form to 
be mailed a paper catalog.  It is free.
      
AND COINCIDENTALLY, ALL ITEMS IN THE MICROMARK CATALOG ARE ON SALE. 
Markdowns vary up to 75%. You can also call 1-800-225-1066 to place an 
order or request the latest catalog.  -Greg

Thank you, everyone.  The comments are greatly appreciated.  I thought
that the riffler files SHOULD be very useful for working inside of a
mouthpiece and the comments received here confirm it for me.

Thank you,

David