I need to take the table of a fat boy Larsen Tenor piece down at least 
15 thou. There is plenty of meat on the piece to allow me to do the 
job. Once it is down there, I have no problem in getting it straight, 
but I would prefer not to have to sit for 3 days building up my arm 
muscles sanding away 15 thou of hard stainless steel. Any help or 
advice would be greatly appreciated.
cheers
Ross

You could take it to a machine shop and have them take .013" off and you to
the rest.  Finding one with a precision grinder would be better than just a
mill.  Getting a machinist buddy to do it for free would be the best deal.

By hand, just start with extra coarse sandpaper.  I think I have used 80
grit.  It still hurts.

--- charvel50 <mk6sax@...> wrote:

> I need to take the table of a fat boy Larsen Tenor piece down at least 
> 15 thou. There is plenty of meat on the piece to allow me to do the 
> job. Once it is down there, I have no problem in getting it straight, 
> but I would prefer not to have to sit for 3 days building up my arm 
> muscles sanding away 15 thou of hard stainless steel. Any help or 
> advice would be greatly appreciated.
> cheers
> Ross
> 
> 
> 



 
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Get yourself a Diamond stone from DMT...you can get them at Amazon...I 
have this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Machining-Technology-W8FCNB-DuoSharp-
Whetstone/dp/B00004WFUC/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/102-5964876-2255319?
ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid75319892&sr=8-1

Cuts stainless steel like nobody's business and leaves it dead flat.

jeff
--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "charvel50" <mk6sax@...> wrote:
>
> I need to take the table of a fat boy Larsen Tenor piece down at 
least 
> 15 thou. There is plenty of meat on the piece to allow me to do the 
> job. Once it is down there, I have no problem in getting it straight, 
> but I would prefer not to have to sit for 3 days building up my arm 
> muscles sanding away 15 thou of hard stainless steel. Any help or 
> advice would be greatly appreciated.
> cheers
> Ross
>

I have been using diamond stones for years & you can get a great 
finish with them.

I think you all know to do the vacuum test on a mouthpiece to see how 
well the reed is closing. In case there is someone who isn't in the 
know I plug the bore with a rubber plug, then put the reed on with a 
ligature then put enough of it in your mouth & suck so the reed 
closes up onto the mouthpiece, you should be able to take it out of 
your mouth & a few seconds later it will open with a popping sound, 
if it doesent you have a leak & have to start measuring to determine 
the position of the leak then fix it. Much quicker & more easier way 
of seeing the leak is to use a 'LEGERE' synthetic reed 1.5 or a 2
(http://www.legere.com/) this is an opaque synthetic reed (They play 
great & last a long time)so as long as it's wet as you pull the 
mouthpiece out of your mouth & look at the reed you will clearly see 
through the reed the air being dragged in by the water bubbling at 
the site of the leak. if it is at just one point you havn't finished 
yet, if it's all the way round evenly then it's a good seat.
Hope this helps
Gary Mills
www.wessexmusic.com 


--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "sjrosner" <sjrosner@...> 
wrote:
>
> Get yourself a Diamond stone from DMT...you can get them at 
Amazon...I 
> have this one:
> http://www.amazon.com/Machining-Technology-W8FCNB-DuoSharp-
> Whetstone/dp/B00004WFUC/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/102-5964876-2255319?
> ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid75319892&sr=8-1
> 
> Cuts stainless steel like nobody's business and leaves it dead flat.
> 
> jeff
> --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "charvel50" <mk6sax@> wrote:
> >
> > I need to take the table of a fat boy Larsen Tenor piece down at 
> least 
> > 15 thou. There is plenty of meat on the piece to allow me to do 
the 
> > job. Once it is down there, I have no problem in getting it 
straight, 
> > but I would prefer not to have to sit for 3 days building up my 
arm 
> > muscles sanding away 15 thou of hard stainless steel. Any help or 
> > advice would be greatly appreciated.
> > cheers
> > Ross
> >
>

This html message parsed with html2text ---------------------------Do you use both the coarse- and fine-grit sides of yours? They make several
different two-sided combinations.  
  
Dan T  
  
sjrosner wrote:

> Get yourself a Diamond stone from DMT...you can get them at Amazon...I  
>  have this one:  
>  [http://www.amazon.com/Machining-Technology-W8FCNB-
> DuoSharp-](http://www.amazon.com/Machining-
Technology-W8FCNB-

DuoSharp-)  
>  Whetstone/dp/B00004WFUC/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/102-5964876-2255319?  
>  ie=UTF8&s;=hi&qid75319892&sr=8-1  
>  
>  Cuts stainless steel like nobody's business and leaves it dead flat.  
>  
>  jeff  
>  \\--- In
> [MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com](mailto:MouthpieceWork%40yahoogroups.com),
> "charvel50" [](mailto:mk6sax@...) wrote:  
>  >  
>  > I need to take the table of a fat boy Larsen Tenor piece down at  
>  least  
>  > 15 thou. There is plenty of meat on the piece to allow me to do the  
>  > job. Once it is down there, I have no problem in getting it straight,  
>  > but I would prefer not to have to sit for 3 days building up my arm  
>  > muscles sanding away 15 thou of hard stainless steel. Any help or  
>  > advice would be greatly appreciated.  
>  > cheers  
>  > Ross  
>  >  
>  
>
>  
>  
>  
>  
>     * * *
>  
>      No virus found in
>     this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 /
> Virus
>     Database: 268.18.23/740 - Release Date: 3/30/2007 1:15 PM

A GREAT tip, Gary!
   
  Paul

Gary <Gary@...> wrote:
          I have been using diamond stones for years & you can get a great 
finish with them.

I think you all know to do the vacuum test on a mouthpiece to see how 
well the reed is closing. In case there is someone who isn't in the 
know I plug the bore with a rubber plug, then put the reed on with a 
ligature then put enough of it in your mouth & suck so the reed 
closes up onto the mouthpiece, you should be able to take it out of 
your mouth & a few seconds later it will open with a popping sound, 
if it doesent you have a leak & have to start measuring to determine 
the position of the leak then fix it. Much quicker & more easier way 
of seeing the leak is to use a 'LEGERE' synthetic reed 1.5 or a 2
(http://www.legere.com/) this is an opaque synthetic reed (They play 
great & last a long time)so as long as it's wet as you pull the 
mouthpiece out of your mouth & look at the reed you will clearly see 
through the reed the air being dragged in by the water bubbling at 
the site of the leak. if it is at just one point you havn't finished 
yet, if it's all the way round evenly then it's a good seat.
Hope this helps
Gary Mills
www.wessexmusic.com 

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "sjrosner" <sjrosner@...> 
wrote:
>
> Get yourself a Diamond stone from DMT...you can get them at 
Amazon...I 
> have this one:
> http://www.amazon.com/Machining-Technology-W8FCNB-DuoSharp-
> Whetstone/dp/B00004WFUC/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/102-5964876-2255319?
> ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid75319892&sr=8-1
> 
> Cuts stainless steel like nobody's business and leaves it dead flat.
> 
> jeff
> --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "charvel50" <mk6sax@> wrote:
> >
> > I need to take the table of a fat boy Larsen Tenor piece down at 
> least 
> > 15 thou. There is plenty of meat on the piece to allow me to do 
the 
> > job. Once it is down there, I have no problem in getting it 
straight, 
> > but I would prefer not to have to sit for 3 days building up my 
arm 
> > muscles sanding away 15 thou of hard stainless steel. Any help or 
> > advice would be greatly appreciated.
> > cheers
> > Ross
> >
>



         


Link to Paul's articles from Main page of "Saxgourmet":
		http://www.saxgourmet.com
Listen to Paul's MP3's and view saxophone photos at:
           http://briefcase.yahoo.com/tenorman1952

Paul Coats is the sole US importer of SAXRAX products from 
http://www.saxrax.com 
For SAXRAX products, email Paul at saxraxus@...
 
---------------------------------
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Just ordered!
   
  Thanks for the tip, Jeff!
   
  Paul

sjrosner <sjrosner@...> wrote:
          Get yourself a Diamond stone from DMT...you can get them at Amazon...I 
have this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Machining-Technology-W8FCNB-DuoSharp-
Whetstone/dp/B00004WFUC/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/102-5964876-2255319?
ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid75319892&sr=8-1

Cuts stainless steel like nobody's business and leaves it dead flat.

jeff
--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "charvel50" <mk6sax@...> wrote:
>
> I need to take the table of a fat boy Larsen Tenor piece down at 
least 
> 15 thou. There is plenty of meat on the piece to allow me to do the 
> job. Once it is down there, I have no problem in getting it straight, 
> but I would prefer not to have to sit for 3 days building up my arm 
> muscles sanding away 15 thou of hard stainless steel. Any help or 
> advice would be greatly appreciated.
> cheers
> Ross
>



         


Link to Paul's articles from Main page of "Saxgourmet":
		http://www.saxgourmet.com
Listen to Paul's MP3's and view saxophone photos at:
           http://briefcase.yahoo.com/tenorman1952

Paul Coats is the sole US importer of SAXRAX products from 
http://www.saxrax.com 
For SAXRAX products, email Paul at saxraxus@...
 
---------------------------------
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I use these stones for lots of stuff, only occasionally for 
mouthpieces, and yes, I use both sides of all the double-sided ones. 

Sometimes I do the vacuum test on a mouthpiece to see how 
 well the reed is closing. There are cases in which the reed closes, but the mouthpiece 
doesn`t play very good; and, in some others the reed is not closing, which means there are 
leaks, but the mouthpiece plays OK. Then I try to fix it, and it doesn`t get better...
Does the vacuum test  really determine the efficiency of a refacing job? Please tell me about 
your experiences..   Thanks!

Some people think so.  I have not found it to be a reliable test.  Too many variables.
   
  It is more reliable with plastic or synthetic reeds.  
   
  A mouthpiece/reed could hold a good vacuum and still not have a facing that works with the cut of the reed well.
   
  Paul Coats

lalorojas <lalorojas@...> wrote:
          Sometimes I do the vacuum test on a mouthpiece to see how 
well the reed is closing. There are cases in which the reed closes, but the mouthpiece 
doesn`t play very good; and, in some others the reed is not closing, which means there are 
leaks, but the mouthpiece plays OK. Then I try to fix it, and it doesn`t get better...
Does the vacuum test really determine the efficiency of a refacing job? Please tell me about 
your experiences.. Thanks!



         


Link to Paul's articles from Main page of "Saxgourmet":
		http://www.saxgourmet.com
Listen to Paul's MP3's and view saxophone photos at:
           http://briefcase.yahoo.com/tenorman1952

Paul Coats is the sole US importer of SAXRAX products from 
http://www.saxrax.com 
For SAXRAX products, email Paul at saxraxus@...
       
---------------------------------
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I do not use it either.  I think it may work better for "classical"
mouthpieces.

Maybe if some great player took their mouthpiece off during a solo and
played some funky pops on it I'd be more interested.    


       
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--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...>
wrote:
>
> I do not use it either.  I think it may work better for "classical"
> mouthpieces.
> 
> Maybe if some great player took their mouthpiece off during a solo and
> played some funky pops on it I'd be more interested.    
> 
> 
> 

I have heard Miles Osland do just that quite effectively. The cut used
to be on his web site. 

As a player, I use the pop test when I think a reed is warped, but I
have also seen it ruin baritone reeds...

The test can be a diagnostic tool, in that it can reveal a poorly made or damaged tip, or a warped table, a "kink" or bump in the facing curve.  But it doesn't tell you just what the problem is.
   
  And there is a noticiable difference in using a new reed which can leak through the pores, a seasoned reed, which is more naturally sealed, and synthetic reed, which seems to hold the best vacuum.
   
  And of course, as mentioned before, a narrow tip opening (classical) will hold longer than a wide tip opening.
   
  A simple light pass, just one stroke, of the table on 600-800 paper will reveal any low spots immediately. 
   
  Paul

planosax <awholley@...> wrote:
          --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...>
wrote:
>
> I do not use it either. I think it may work better for "classical"
> mouthpieces.
> 
> Maybe if some great player took their mouthpiece off during a solo and
> played some funky pops on it I'd be more interested. 
> 
> 
> 

I have heard Miles Osland do just that quite effectively. The cut used
to be on his web site. 

As a player, I use the pop test when I think a reed is warped, but I
have also seen it ruin baritone reeds...



         


Link to Paul's articles from Main page of "Saxgourmet":
		http://www.saxgourmet.com
Listen to Paul's MP3's and view saxophone photos at:
           http://briefcase.yahoo.com/tenorman1952

Paul Coats is the sole US importer of SAXRAX products from 
http://www.saxrax.com 
For SAXRAX products, email Paul at saxraxus@...
       
---------------------------------
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