So, I am a newbie to this trade. Recently, I been using dental wax to 
put experiment with baffles in my link. I have experimented a lot and I 
think I found a baffle that works for me. I don't think the dental wax 
will last too long and I would like to make this permanent. I have 
heard about using epoxy to create a baffle, but how do I do it? Thank 
you in advance!

~Zach

The easy way is to use epoxy plumber's putty--it starts about the consistency of wax when mixed. Grease or wax the inside of your mpc so that it doesn't stick, and mold it inside to the shape you want. Let it set slightly so that it is relatively hard and remove it gently to set the rest of the way. Then just glue it in place with contact cement. If it is too soft in the beginning you can wait until it gets a bit harder before beginning to shape and mold it.

Toby
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: zachfrotton 
  To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2006 2:56 PM
  Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Adding and epoxy baffle?


  So, I am a newbie to this trade. Recently, I been using dental wax to 
  put experiment with baffles in my link. I have experimented a lot and I 
  think I found a baffle that works for me. I don't think the dental wax 
  will last too long and I would like to make this permanent. I have 
  heard about using epoxy to create a baffle, but how do I do it? Thank 
  you in advance!

  ~Zach





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This html message parsed with html2text ---------------------------Search through the old posts; there are a bunch on this topic. Also look
through the pictures \- I think there are some epoxy baffle pics in there.  
  
I think most prefer to just put the epoxy right in there and let it set and
adhere, although Toby's method of forming the epoxy baffle and then cementing
it in is interesting.  
  
Dan T  
  
Toby wrote:  

> The easy way is to use epoxy plumber's putty--it starts about the
> consistency of wax when mixed. Grease or wax the inside of your mpc so that
> it doesn't stick, and mold it inside to the shape you want. Let it set
> slightly so that it is relatively hard and remove it gently to set the rest
> of the way. Then just glue it in place with contact cement. If it is too
> soft in the beginning you can wait until it gets a bit harder before
> beginning to shape and mold it.
>
> Toby
>

>> \\----- Original Message -----

>>

>> **From:** [zachfrotton](mailto:zachfrotton@... "zachfrotton@...")

>>

>> **To:**
[MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com](mailto:MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
"MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com")

>>

>> **Sent:** Saturday, May 13, 2006 2:56 PM

>>

>> **Subject:** [MouthpieceWork] Adding and epoxy baffle?

>>

>>  
>
>>

>> So, I am a newbie to this trade. Recently, I been using dental wax to  
>  put experiment with baffles in my link. I have experimented a lot and I  
>  think I found a baffle that works for me. I don't think the dental wax  
>  will last too long and I would like to make this permanent. I have  
>  heard about using epoxy to create a baffle, but how do I do it? Thank  
>  you in advance!  
>  
>  ~Zach  
>  
>  
>  
>
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>     * * *

>>  
>>      No virus

>>     found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version:
7.1.392

>>     / Virus Database: 268.5.6/337 - Release Date: 5/11/2006

--- Toby <kymarto123@...> wrote:

> The easy way is to use epoxy plumber's putty--it starts about the
> consistency of wax when mixed. Grease or wax the inside of your mpc so
> that it doesn't stick, and mold it inside to the shape you want. Let it
> set slightly so that it is relatively hard and remove it gently to set
> the rest of the way. Then just glue it in place with contact cement. If
> it is too soft in the beginning you can wait until it gets a bit harder
> before beginning to shape and mold it.
> 

I make removable baffles this way.  I have never used contact cement.  I
suppose it performs well as a temporary adheasive.  Sometime a removable
baffle will not wedge into place du to the shape of the sidewalls not being
tapered.  Here I have used a dab of poster hanging putty to hold them in
place.  Dental wax might work well too as a temporary adheasive.

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I have used plumbers epoxy in my link and set it right
in the mpc.  The problem I had is I used a little bit
too much epoxy and the baffel is to big, once it
hardens it is vry tough to work with and take it down.

--- Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:

> 
> 
> --- Toby <kymarto123@...> wrote:
> 
> > The easy way is to use epoxy plumber's putty--it
> starts about the
> > consistency of wax when mixed. Grease or wax the
> inside of your mpc so
> > that it doesn't stick, and mold it inside to the
> shape you want. Let it
> > set slightly so that it is relatively hard and
> remove it gently to set
> > the rest of the way. Then just glue it in place
> with contact cement. If
> > it is too soft in the beginning you can wait until
> it gets a bit harder
> > before beginning to shape and mold it.
> > 
> 
> I make removable baffles this way.  I have never
> used contact cement.  I
> suppose it performs well as a temporary adheasive. 
> Sometime a removable
> baffle will not wedge into place du to the shape of
> the sidewalls not being
> tapered.  Here I have used a dab of poster hanging
> putty to hold them in
> place.  Dental wax might work well too as a
> temporary adheasive.
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com 
> 


Mike

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--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Michael Iapicca
<miapicca23@...> wrote:
>
> I have used plumbers epoxy in my link and set it right
> in the mpc.  The problem I had is I used a little bit
> too much epoxy and the baffel is to big, once it
> hardens it is vry tough to work with and take it down.
> 
> --- Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
> 
> > Here in the U.K. I have used Milliput modelling epoxy which I
guess is similar to plumbers epoxy. It sets rock hard in three hours.
I think Toby's idea of greasing the mouthpiece is sensible. I have
used a thin polythene underlay to prevent sticking after scratching a
good metal MPC, trying to remove the baffle. I also like using
Acrylic/Perspex/Lucite removeable baffles which can be wedged between
vertical sidewalls without glue. These require a lot of work with a
file though. Poster putty here is known as Blu-Tack or Stick'n'fix.  
> > 
> > --- Toby <kymarto123@...> wrote:
> > 
> > > The easy way is to use epoxy plumber's putty--it
> > starts about the
> > > consistency of wax when mixed. Grease or wax the
> > inside of your mpc so
> > > that it doesn't stick, and mold it inside to the
> > shape you want. Let it
> > > set slightly so that it is relatively hard and
> > remove it gently to set
> > > the rest of the way. Then just glue it in place
> > with contact cement. If
> > > it is too soft in the beginning you can wait until
> > it gets a bit harder
> > > before beginning to shape and mold it.
> > > 
> > 
> > I make removable baffles this way.  I have never
> > used contact cement.  I
> > suppose it performs well as a temporary adheasive. 
> > Sometime a removable
> > baffle will not wedge into place du to the shape of
> > the sidewalls not being
> > tapered.  Here I have used a dab of poster hanging
> > putty to hold them in
> > place.  Dental wax might work well too as a
> > temporary adheasive.
> > 
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> > protection around 
> > http://mail.yahoo.com 
> > 
> 
> 
> Mike
> 
> __________________________________________________
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> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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>

--- Michael Iapicca <miapicca23@...> wrote:

> I have used plumbers epoxy in my link and set it right
> in the mpc.  The problem I had is I used a little bit
> too much epoxy and the baffLE is toO big, once it
> hardens it is vEry tough to work with and take it down.
> 

Plumbers Epoxy usually sets in 5 minutes.  That can be good and bad.  If
you get a good set of tools you can shape it after it gets hard.  Medium
coarse hand files.  A few riffler files (bent curved).  220 grit sand
paper.

I recently started using "Apoxy" putty.  There is a Link in the supplies
section on the site.  It is slower setting and they claim it is non-toxic. 
It comes in colors.  The black looks good in HR mouthpieces.  It hardens a
little soft to use to repair rails or tips.  It would be OK for tooth
gouges if a tooth patch is used over it.  Otherwise, JB weld is harder. 
But it is creamy, not a putty.

On many slow set epoxies, you can come back after 1-2 hours after they
partially harden.  You can then rework them with moist fingers and/or
shaping tools.  You can fuss with the shape to the point were no finishing
work is needed after they harden.  



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