I recently came into posession of a Wanne/Pillinger 7* (resin/plastic) 
tenor piece.  It plays very nicely, although it's a little smaller tip 
opening than I generally like.  I don't want to open it up, since it 
plays so well right now and seems so well-crafted (I'll probably just 
try some harder reeds).  Anyway, there are several aspects I'd like some 
input on:

- The usual gunk in the chamber.  Doesn't come off readily with 
toothbrush (even with toothpaste).  What's good to dissolve/remove 
this?  I probably don't want to use anything more abrasive than toothpaste.

- The metal ring on the shank has come off (I still have it).  I'm 
thinking CA (superglue) is the best re-attachment choice.

- The table is visibly concave (I know this is deliberate).  Most 
refacers here have expressed a preference for flat tables, and I've only 
done flat tables myself, with great success.  I'll play this one a bit 
and see if any reed warping problems diminish (Southern U.S. - heat, 
humidity, air conditioning...).  I also have some Jon van Wie pieces 
which appear to be ever so slightly convex just behind the window.  
Anyone have insights opinions into the flat/convex/concave issue?

Thanks once again.

Dan T

> - The metal ring on the shank has come off (I still have it).  I'm 
> thinking CA (superglue) is the best re-attachment choice.

I like to use clear 5-min epoxy that comes in a dual syringe dispenser.  It
fill gaps better tha CA glue, though the Gel CA is decent.

> 
> - The table is visibly concave (I know this is deliberate).  

I think a concave belly is silly.  But both can work and play fine.  

This is not the same as concave lengthwise as seen on many mass-produced
mouthpiece (like Links).  This concavity is bad.  The high heel needs to be
taken down.

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This html message parsed with html2text ---------------------------Thanks, Keith. I may get some of that dual syringe epoxy - seems generally
useful and a little gap-filling would be good in this case.  
  
Yes, the concavity is actually a visible oval depression in the table. I have
flattened a bunch of the other kind (high-heel, lengthwise-concave tables)
when refacing - they do seem to be problematic. Like you said, this mouthpiece
plays fine, but your assessment seems to be "harmless at worst."  
  
Now about that calcified gunk....  
  
Dan T  
  
Keith Bradbury wrote:  

> >
>>     \- The metal ring on the shank has come off (I still have it).

>>     I'm thinking CA (superglue) is the best re-attachment choice.

>  
>  
>      I like to use clear 5-min epoxy that comes
>     in a dual syringe dispenser. It fill gaps better tha CA glue, though the
> Gel
>     CA is decent.
>

>>

>>     \- The table is

>>     visibly concave (I know this is deliberate).

>  
>  
>      I think a concave belly is silly. But both can work and play
>     fine. This is not the same as concave lengthwise as seen on many mass-
> produced
>     mouthpiece (like Links). This concavity is bad. The high heel needs to
> be
>     taken down. __________________________________________________ Do You
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I use a dab of vinegar on steel wool for some tough deposites.  Works
so-so.  I have not tried some of the other ideas I have read on the web.  

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