FROM: chrishillclarinet (chrishillclarinet)
SUBJECT: Polishing paper
Does anyone know where I can fing 3/0 pouncing paper?
Thanks!
Chris Hill





FROM: tenorman1952 (tenorman@...)
SUBJECT: Re: Polishing paper
No.  Do you want to polish the table, or the baffle?  For the table, after working
with 600 silicon carbide paper (400 for brass), then a light pass on 800 silicon
carbide, I then lay a piece of 600 or 800 paper backside up and make a few passes
on the table of the mouthpiece, then lighly on the rails on out to the tip.  There
is just enough very fine silicon carbide dust on the paper that it gives a near
mirror finish.  Now, for the baffle.  After filing to shape. I tear some 600 paper
into narro strips, about 1" long (25mm) x 1/4" wide (6 mm).  I lay this strip on
the baffle, gripping between my thumb and index finger of my right hand, holding
the mouthpiece with my left, and I press the strip lightly to the baffle with my
left thumb.  Then I draw the paper out from under my thumb at such an angle that
is draws over the filed rough area, and out, almost but not quite touching the tip
rail.  I do several pulls, move over, and work the next section of baffle, overlapping
the just finished part.   At this point the mouthpiece is perfectly playable as
it is.  But I like to go further to do a more professional looking job in the customer's
eyes.  A race car runs just as fast with dents and primer on the bodywork, but to
please the crowd (and the sponsors that pay for everything!) they put a lot of effort
into the paint job.  And so it is here.  Then I use a strip of 800 and repeat the
process.  Then 1000 grit.  By this time there should be no file marks left, and
just a slightly dull area on the baffle.  To bring back a high shine and match it
to the surface farther back in the baffle, I use a little handmade tool Santy Runyon
showed me.  I use a wood dowel 5/16" diameter (about 8 mm) x 6"-7" long (150 - 175
mm)and grind a flat side near one end about 1" long (25mm).  To this flat area I
glue a piece of 1/16" sheet cork (as I use on sax necks and clarinet tenons) 1"
x 5/16", same size as the flat area, with some contact cement.  On top of this I
glue a piece of chamois.  This is my polishing tool.  You might as well make two
or three while you are going to the trouble.   I use a plastic polish from the auto
parts store, Kit Scratch Out.  Kit makes waxes and polishes and other car care products. 
This polish is made for Plexiglass windshields, face shields on motorcycle helmets,
and other plastics to remove fine scratches.  You may also use Flitz Metal Polish,
or even white toothpaste (Colgate).  Add a little water to the white toothpaste.
 Put a little polish on the chamois surface, and polish the dull area of the baffle. 
In just seconds you will have a nice looking surface.  Use this same polish, along
with a soft cloth, to lightly polish BY HAND the outside of the mouthpiece.  Really
scratched or damaged areas may be lightly sanded with 600, then 800, then 1000 silicon
carbide paper, and then hand polished to a nice finish.   Again, this is not necessary,
but it really gives your work a professional appearance to the customer.  Paul
 


----- Original Message ----- From: chrishillclarinet [mailto:themouthpieceguy@...m]
Sent: 10/4/2005 11:06:14 PM To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com Subject: [MouthpieceWork]
Polishing paper 
Does anyone know where I can fing 3/0 pouncing paper?

Thanks!

Chris Hill







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