I have a Sears bench grinder with a 5-6" buffing wheel mounted on one 
side.  I use it sometimes to buff a mouthpiece, but it is a dangerous 
task.  I think the speed is too fast and it might be better with no 
guards, like pictures I've seen in a Ferree's catalog.  It is always 
on the verge of ripping the mouthpiece out of my hands.

Anyone have some advice on a good buffing set-up?  Speeds, wheels, 
rouge?

I don't risk damaging a mouthpiece on a buffing wheel.  I do the best I 
can by hand with some good compound (Kit Scratchout, a plastic polish 
available in automotive stores) and a soft cloth.  To me the results are 
acceptable, and I don't risk damaging the facing, either with heating 
the mouthpiece or actually touching the rails.

Paul

Keith Bradbury wrote:

>
> I have a Sears bench grinder with a 5-6" buffing wheel mounted on one
> side.  I use it sometimes to buff a mouthpiece, but it is a dangerous
> task.  I think the speed is too fast and it might be better with no
> guards, like pictures I've seen in a Ferree's catalog.  It is always
> on the verge of ripping the mouthpiece out of my hands.
>
> Anyone have some advice on a good buffing set-up?  Speeds, wheels,
> rouge?
>
>
>
>
>
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I've had good experience mounting my Dewalt VSR electric drill in my 
bench vise - using a 4" buffing wheel on a short spindle.  Enough 
torque for mouthpiece work, but not so much speed that it feels out 
of control.  This is fairly crude for large areas.  You need to keep 
the table "normal" the same direction that the wheel is turning so as 
not to round the rails.  I do my finer work using a variable speed 
Dremel and buffing tips - the mouthpiece mounted in "squishy" rubber 
grips in my bench vise.  The final polish really needs to be done by 
hand with a clean soft rag, though maybe this is more psychological 
than practical.

Bench grinders have asynchrone motors in general. 
They are hard to control by a voltage: they stay or they run with 
full speed.
I suspect that many cheap 'several speed fans' rotate  always with 
maximum RPM if the propeller is removed.
DC motors and their AC relatives -motors with copper collectors for 
drills and vacuumcleaners, rotating brush motors, etc. are easy to 
regilate. Lighting Dimmer switch probably would control small DC 
motors.
Personally I would try Dremel contour sander with some homemade tips 
for all kinds of exterior/interior polishing and some chamber corner 
works and wait for a good deal. Bad thing is that grinded material 
stays trapped in the tool but good side is that wet abrasive drops 
will not fly in your face.   
It is heavy but the next smaller item providing a stroke movement is 
a shaver of barber's machine. I do not see anything between available 
if we exclude 'sazall', 'jigsaw' and a hammerdrill. This contour 
sander may be worth to be mounted stadily  and oriented to a worker 
by its back. I would check the slowest RPM available.
Dmitri