Mouthpiece Work / Another finished eMachineShop blank
FROM: kwbradbury (Keith Bradbury)
SUBJECT: Another finished eMachineShop blank
I posted 4 more pics in the Photos - CAD section. I did this one (I call it "Beta" design) with a medium high step baffle, a straight baffle near the tip that looks like a "lake", and I scooped the sidewalls some. I used an XY vise gizmo on my drill press with an end mill to machine down the baffle about 1/8". Saved a lot of hand filing but finding a good way to clamp tand angle the blanks can be difficult. I had plating problems this time around. I tried to leave some of the surface with a "brushed" finish. I left the body sanded with 400 grit lines in it. Did some steel wool and a Flitz polish. I left the shank buffed. Looked cool 2-tone brass before plating. But after plating, the fine detail was lost and this highlighted some of the deeper scratches from vice clamping. I would skip the steel wool and polish next time and may even uuse 320 grit or some light wire brush strokes. Nickle is hard and brittle. When I tried to scratch in my "MOJO" markings one the first one I did (Alpha), the plating came off in flakes. On the Beta one I marked it before plating and the results were much better. The other plating problem I had was that the plating process would not get started for me (no bubbles indicating it is working). You need to touch steel to copper alloys for a minute to get them going. The steel was bubbling some, but the brass was not sustaining it like last time. This turned out to be a temperature problem. I needed to insulate my container by wrapping some rags around it. After another 30 minutes of heat-up I tried again and the bubbling was much more vigorus on the steel and it kept going after I pulled the steel away. I must of had beginners luck on the first one I did or the heaters I got with my kit have already lost some of their efficiency. I'm glad I had a lab thermometer (not included in the kit).
FROM: stevefowler1176 (Steve Fowler)
SUBJECT: Re: Another finished eMachineShop blank
Plating can be a total pain in the ... well you know where. As to your first problem of your hard work not showing up, Electroless Nickel is known for it's ability to "level" out small areas while accenting larger defects. Using a Watts bath Nickel or plating with Silver would have kept more of your handy work visible. Next time you need to bead blast it! You found out correctly that you do all engraving on the base metal. Temperature, temperature, temperature! It is the one thing that will keep EN from working properly. Caswell sells very nice ceramic heaters for a very reasonable price. (like $13.20 for a 300W heater!) It sounds like you need to add at least one more heater to your tank. The other thing is cleanliness! Steel wool leaves a lot of oil behind that can be hard to get rid of. You might want to consider setting up an Electrocleaner tank. You can use a hotplate (or ceramic heaters) a steel container, very easily obtained cleaners, and a battery charger to clean metal like you've never seen! I can also turn you onto an activator that will increase your chance of success greatly. All the best, Keith. Steve =================== Steve Fowler Fowler Music Service -------- Custom Band Instrument Repairs -------- ------ Plating in Silver and Gold ------ 602 Kent Avenue Pasadena, MD 21122 410-647-9537 www.fowlermusic.com <http://www.fowlermusic.com/> _____ From: Keith Bradbury [mailto:kwbradbury@...] Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2005 11:11 AM To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Another finished eMachineShop blank I posted 4 more pics in the Photos - CAD section. I did this one (I call it "Beta" design) with a medium high step baffle, a straight baffle near the tip that looks like a "lake", and I scooped the sidewalls some. I used an XY vise gizmo on my drill press with an end mill to machine down the baffle about 1/8". Saved a lot of hand filing but finding a good way to clamp tand angle the blanks can be difficult. I had plating problems this time around. I tried to leave some of the surface with a "brushed" finish. I left the body sanded with 400 grit lines in it. Did some steel wool and a Flitz polish. I left the shank buffed. Looked cool 2-tone brass before plating. But after plating, the fine detail was lost and this highlighted some of the deeper scratches from vice clamping. I would skip the steel wool and polish next time and may even uuse 320 grit or some light wire brush strokes. Nickle is hard and brittle. When I tried to scratch in my "MOJO" markings one the first one I did (Alpha), the plating came off in flakes. On the Beta one I marked it before plating and the results were much better. The other plating problem I had was that the plating process would not get started for me (no bubbles indicating it is working). You need to touch steel to copper alloys for a minute to get them going. The steel was bubbling some, but the brass was not sustaining it like last time. This turned out to be a temperature problem. I needed to insulate my container by wrapping some rags around it. After another 30 minutes of heat-up I tried again and the bubbling was much more vigorus on the steel and it kept going after I pulled the steel away. I must of had beginners luck on the first one I did or the heaters I got with my kit have already lost some of their efficiency. I'm glad I had a lab thermometer (not included in the kit). Got a Mouthpiece Work question? Send it to MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com Visit the site at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MouthpieceWork to see the Files, Photos and Bookmarks relating to Mouthpiece Work. To see and modify your groups, go to http://groups.yahoo.com/mygroups _____ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MouthpieceWork/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: MouthpieceWork-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com <mailto:MouthpieceWork-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe> * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
FROM: kwbradbury (Keith Bradbury)
SUBJECT: Re: Another finished eMachineShop blank
Thanks for relaying your experiances Steve. I use an Ultra sonic cleaner that seems to work quite well. Caswell sub-ed (2) 75 watt heaters since they ran out of 300W heaters for the kit. I'm going to write them about my experiance since they barely do the job with a 2 pint bath. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - 250MB free storage. Do more. Manage less. http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
FROM: kymarto (Toby)
SUBJECT: Re: Another finished eMachineShop blank
Hi Keith, I'd just like to point out to you that some people have an allergy to nickel, which usually shows up as a contact dermatitis with folks who play nickel-plated flutes. I guess the overall percentage is fairly small, but it is worth thinking about. Silver seems to be better, although there are folks with silver allergies as well. Toby ----- Original Message ----- From: Keith Bradbury To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 1:11 AM Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Another finished eMachineShop blank I posted 4 more pics in the Photos - CAD section. I did this one (I call it "Beta" design) with a medium high step baffle, a straight baffle near the tip that looks like a "lake", and I scooped the sidewalls some. I used an XY vise gizmo on my drill press with an end mill to machine down the baffle about 1/8". Saved a lot of hand filing but finding a good way to clamp tand angle the blanks can be difficult. I had plating problems this time around. I tried to leave some of the surface with a "brushed" finish. I left the body sanded with 400 grit lines in it. Did some steel wool and a Flitz polish. I left the shank buffed. Looked cool 2-tone brass before plating. But after plating, the fine detail was lost and this highlighted some of the deeper scratches from vice clamping. I would skip the steel wool and polish next time and may even uuse 320 grit or some light wire brush strokes. Nickle is hard and brittle. When I tried to scratch in my "MOJO" markings one the first one I did (Alpha), the plating came off in flakes. On the Beta one I marked it before plating and the results were much better. The other plating problem I had was that the plating process would not get started for me (no bubbles indicating it is working). You need to touch steel to copper alloys for a minute to get them going. The steel was bubbling some, but the brass was not sustaining it like last time. This turned out to be a temperature problem. I needed to insulate my container by wrapping some rags around it. After another 30 minutes of heat-up I tried again and the bubbling was much more vigorus on the steel and it kept going after I pulled the steel away. I must of had beginners luck on the first one I did or the heaters I got with my kit have already lost some of their efficiency. I'm glad I had a lab thermometer (not included in the kit). Got a Mouthpiece Work question? Send it to MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com Visit the site at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MouthpieceWork to see the Files, Photos and Bookmarks relating to Mouthpiece Work. To see and modify your groups, go to http://groups.yahoo.com/mygroups ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links a.. To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MouthpieceWork/ b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: MouthpieceWork-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
FROM: kwbradbury (Keith Bradbury)
SUBJECT: Niclke alergies
Good point Toby! I think Nickle alergy is more common than Brass alergy. I've never met a sax player with either, but I have met several flute players with Nickle alergy. Still, all student flutes are made with Nickle plating. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Find what you need with new enhanced search. http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250