Hi Guys, I'm looking at ordering a glass gauge from Babbitt and don't know
what the difference is between these as they described them to me in an
email.

>>The glass gauges (mm set back, mm end grad, & 1/32")<<<

Do I need all three types or one in particular for mpc work?

Also, they describe tip gauges as follows:
>>The short red handle tip gauge for Saxophone<<

Should I get this also?

Thanks for the help.
Ralph

I would recommend getting one of the mm gages.  I have not heard of anyone
using the 1/32" gage.

With the "set back" gage, the zero line of the scale is 1/8" away from the
edge of the glass.  You need to zero the scale by eye to the mouthpiece
tip.  

With the "end grad" gage the zero line is the edge of the glass.  This
allow you to mechanically zero the gage with the tip against some type of
"stop".  Some use the edge of a work table or the edge of a granite slab
they are using.

They used to offer narrow and wide versions of the gage.  They may all be
wide now.

I think the mechanical zeroing is a good idea, but I have never owned one
of the "end grad" gages.  With good technique, either gage works fine.  

I have never seen the Babbitt tip wand.







	
		
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Ralph, First, for the glass gauge you want mm, not 1/32".  Almost 
universally facings are measured with various feelers and the numbers 
given in mm's or half mm's (Eric Brand system).  The increments are 
appropriate for our work.
 
Next, there are two types of gauges, ones that are set back, and ones 
that the zero is the end of the glass.  I just don't know how to 
consistently and quickly line up the tip with the zero line of a set 
back gauge.
 
But for a zero end gauge I simply place the glass on the mouthpiece, 
hold it so that the table is horizontal, and press gently against the 
vertical face of the edge of my workbench, letting them slide until 
mouthpiece tip and glass touch the workbench. 
 
With this method I can quickly align the glass, measure with feelers, 
adjust the facing, remeasure, and have consistent, meaningful results.
 
The tip gauge is a tapered rod, flat on one side, round on the other.  
This is slipped between the aligned glass and mouthpiece tip, with the 
round side touching the tip rail (so that it only touches the tip rail 
at one point), the flat side toward the glass.  It is slid in gently 
until it stops, and the measurement read from the flat side of the tip 
gauge.
 
Paul

Ralph Hopper wrote:

> Hi Guys, I'm looking at ordering a glass gauge from Babbitt and don't know
> what the difference is between these as they described them to me in an
> email.
>
> >>The glass gauges (mm set back, mm end grad, & 1/32")<<<
>
> Do I need all three types or one in particular for mpc work?
>
> Also, they describe tip gauges as follows:
> >>The short red handle tip gauge for Saxophone<<
>
> Should I get this also?
>
> Thanks for the help.
> Ralph
>
>
>
>
>
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Using a set back gage, I feel that I can get a repeatable zero within .2
numbers on the scale by eye.   For .2 = .1 mm = .004", this is about the
width of the lines etched in the gage.

For a .100" tip opening, this amount of error translates into ~ +/- 2.25
degrees when trying to hold an edge zero gage and mouthpiece tip against a
flat edge.   ATAN(.004/.100) = 2.29 degs

With a 90 deg fixture, like Springer uses, it should be possible to do
better than +/- 1 deg for outstanding zero repeatablity.

To deal with my small repeatablity error, I try to take an entire set of
measurements at once and plot them to see the shape of the facing curve. 
But when roughing in a facing, I do spot checks and get along fine.


		
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I have both the wand and a calibrated depth gauge like Keith's. They
both give me the same answers, but the wand requires more skill as you
actually have to read it at the inside of the tip rail...
jeff

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury
<kwbradbury@y...> wrote:
> I would recommend getting one of the mm gages.  I have not heard of
anyone
> using the 1/32" gage.
> 
> With the "set back" gage, the zero line of the scale is 1/8" away
from the
> edge of the glass.  You need to zero the scale by eye to the mouthpiece
> tip.  
> 
> With the "end grad" gage the zero line is the edge of the glass.  This
> allow you to mechanically zero the gage with the tip against some
type of
> "stop".  Some use the edge of a work table or the edge of a granite slab
> they are using.
> 
> They used to offer narrow and wide versions of the gage.  They may
all be
> wide now.
> 
> I think the mechanical zeroing is a good idea, but I have never
owned one
> of the "end grad" gages.  With good technique, either gage works fine.  
> 
> I have never seen the Babbitt tip wand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 	
> 		
> __________________________________ 
> Do you Yahoo!? 
> Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we. 
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail

Hello,

I have a friend that would like to purchase 3 glass gauges.  Is it too 
late to order?  If not, please send them to me at:

Ben Redwine
1642 Cliff Drive
Edgewater, MD 21037

Thanks.

Ben
maker, Gennusa "Excellente" clarinet mouthpiece
www.redwinejazz.com

I'll be getting about 2X more than have been requested.  There should be
plenty to fill everyone's needs for a while.

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Can someone out there please help me find some true glass facing gauges.  I've tried calling babbit, but they never answer.  So if someone knows of anything please let me know.  Thanks


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Rocky Giglio at J. J. Babbit
   
  (574) 293-6514
   
  And ask for the "Zero End" gauges.
   
  Paul

arnold montgomery <ammouthpieces@...> wrote:
              Can someone out there please help me find some true glass facing gauges.  I've tried calling babbit, but they never answer.  So if someone knows of anything please let me know.  Thanks


  
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