Any suggestions on the best glue to use for repairing a broken tip?

I'm thinking some kind of CA or gel-type CA glue.

This is to replace a chip or glue a salvaged piece back on?



		
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It's to glue on a salvaged piece. It came off in two pieces, and 
there does not seem to be any missing material.


--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury 
<kwbradbury@y...> wrote:
> This is to replace a chip or glue a salvaged piece back on?
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> _______________________________
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I'd go with CY gel.  Its the only CY I keep around.



		
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Hey.
What is CY Gel, and where do I get some of this good stuff.
I assume is a crazy glue type substance.
Thanks
--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury 
<kwbradbury@y...> wrote:
> I'd go with CY gel.  Its the only CY I keep around.
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> _______________________________
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Now you made me look up how to spell "cyanoacrylate".  Its just the generic
name for Krazy Glue.  



		
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What you mean is "CA Gel" or cyanacrylate.  Crazy Glue, or Super Glue in 
other words.  I have used these glues for many years, since the early 
1970's, mostly building radio control model aircraft.

There are several varieties of CA glue, each with its own purpose.

 The old Crazy Glue was thin and watery.  CA needs a slighly alkaline pH 
to set up correctly, and a certain amount of water as a catalyst.  
Usually just naturally occuring moisture is enough, but if it just won't 
set up, try a little warm breath on it.  That moisture is usually enough 
to "kick it off".  Also, baking soda will make it set up immediately.

Thin CA is good for wicking into tiny cracks by capillary action, and is 
best suited for tightly fitting parts.

Be careful with thin CA, it can spread over places you don't want it, 
such as your fingers holding the parts together.

There are also medium and thick varieties that can bridge gaps.  There 
is also a very thick gel type of CA.

Also available are "fast" and "slow" CA's, which refers to working time 
before it sets.

There are also some solutions (called "activators" or "accelerators") 
that are sold to accelerate the curing of CA glues, but you can make 
your own with a spritz bottle, some water with a little dissolved baking 
soda (baking SODA, not baking POWDER).

Some of the best CA's are those sold in hobby shops under the names Hot 
Stuff and Zap (in the USA).  These are actually industrial grade CA's 
sold in convenient size containers indended for building radio control 
model aircraft, and other similar projects where large quatities are 
needed, rather than the tiny (for all practical purposes) single use 
tubes sold in most stores. 

Check www.towerhobbies.com, and in the search, enter "CA glue".  Their 
store brands are Tower Hobbies and Great Planes.  Keep going through the 
list, there are several pages of these glues to be foudn with this 
search, including some CA's specially forumlated for use with plastics.

There are other brands than just Hot Stuff and Zap, so ask the hobby 
shop owner for suggestions.  Perhaps some of our members in other 
countries can tell us of the brand names of these products there.  I 
suggest the medium and gel types for our purposes.

Acetone will remove some excess CA, but may damage plastics and 
rubbers.  Fingernail polish remover, which contains acetone, is good for 
getting CA off your fingers.

ALWAYS wear safety glasses or goggles when using CA.  There is a 
tendency for the nozzles to clog, so the uses tries to force it out, 
squeezing the tube.  This can cause it to squirt in the users eye.  The 
moisture in the eye will make it harden instantly.

Paul Coats

scoste@... wrote:

>
> Hey.
> What is CY Gel, and where do I get some of this good stuff.
> I assume is a crazy glue type substance.
> Thanks
> --- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury
> <kwbradbury@y...> wrote:
> > I'd go with CY gel.  Its the only CY I keep around.
> >
> >
> >
> >            
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> > Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
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