Hi:

I have a metal Super Tone Master, pre USA 8*.  The tip opening is 
closer to a 7*, the table very flat and it has pretty standard facing 
curbe measurements, but HERE's The PROBLEM.

On most Links you can feel the little hump, usually about 3/4 to an 
inch down from the tip.  On this one, the "hump" is much closer to 
the tip.  A a result, it has more edge than most Floridas, (I can 
tell it is very close to original though), but the LOW NOTES (past 
low Eb), are hard to play and I feel like there is too much 
reistance.  With that said... I feel like I might have several 
options.
1)  Open it up to an actual .115, and see if the baffle changes 
position enough to make the piece more "normal" and balanced.
2.)  Work the material down in the baffle area to make the piece 
darker, and remove some material to balance.
3.)  Make the origination of the facing curve longer.  Problematic 
though, because the 15 guage is reading 50.
4.)  Forget about wotking on it and just use it for hard core jazz 
where the low notes can be subtoned and/or do not have to be as 
finely articulated.

ANY suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

BK

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "bluesnote2000" 
<bluesnote2000@y...> wrote:

> On most Links you can feel the little hump, usually about 3/4 to an 
> inch down from the tip.  On this one, the "hump" is much closer to 
> the tip.  A a result, it has more edge than most Floridas, 

On most Links I've seen, there is a short straight baffle about 1/4" 
to 3/8" long from the tip.  Then it falls off to a straight or 
slightly concave roof.  Some have roll-overs with no straight 
baffles.  The couple of Tenney's I've seen have straight baffles and 
a fall off to a very concave roof (or floor, or lower baffle, or 
chamber, whatever terms you like).  Vintage Links that look original 
seem to come in 3-4 shapes.  So I do not think there was one set of 
blueprints or specs.

> (I can 
> tell it is very close to original though), but the LOW NOTES (past 
> low Eb), are hard to play and I feel like there is too much 
> reistance.  

This is most likely a facing curve issue, not a baffle design 
problem.  It probably is long enough.  The curve is probably not the 
best gentle curved shape it could be.  

> With that said... I feel like I might have several 
> options.
> 1)  Open it up to an actual .115, and see if the baffle changes 
> position enough to make the piece more "normal" and balanced.
> 2.)  Work the material down in the baffle area to make the piece 
> darker, and remove some material to balance.
> 3.)  Make the origination of the facing curve longer.  Problematic 
> though, because the 15 guage is reading 50.

The .0015" feeler often gives a very high reading on mouthpieces.  I 
look at the rest of the readings and extrapolate a curve back to the 
table.  This often indicates that the original facing was probably 
shorter and the .0015" reading became longer due to wear over a long 
time (or sloppy manufacturing on new pieces).  

> 4.)  Forget about wotking on it and just use it for hard core jazz 
> where the low notes can be subtoned and/or do not have to be as 
> finely articulated.
> 
> ANY suggestions would be appreciated.
> 

So I would look at a plot of the facing curve curve to see if there 
is a high spots or flat spots.  If you need help with this, post your 
facing measurements and the set of feelers you are using.  A picture 
of your baffle area next to a ruler might also be good to post in the 
Photos area.

bluesnote2000 wrote:

> Hi:
>
> I have a metal Super Tone Master, pre USA 8*.  The tip opening is
> closer to a 7*, the table very flat and it has pretty standard facing
> curbe measurements, but HERE's The PROBLEM.
>
> On most Links you can feel the little hump, usually about 3/4 to an
> inch down from the tip.  On this one, the "hump" is much closer to
> the tip.  A a result, it has more edge than most Floridas, (I can
> tell it is very close to original though), but the LOW NOTES (past
> low Eb), are hard to play and I feel like there is too much
> reistance.  With that said... I feel like I might have several
> options.
> 1)  Open it up to an actual .115, and see if the baffle changes
> position enough to make the piece more "normal" and balanced.
> 2.)  Work the material down in the baffle area to make the piece
> darker, and remove some material to balance.
> 3.)  Make the origination of the facing curve longer.  Problematic
> though, because the 15 guage is reading 50.

50 (25 mm) reading with the .0015" feeler is more than long enough for 
tenor to give a good low end. 

 

Some of the Florida Links are crooked, that is, the plane of the facing 
is not square with the chamber or body of the mouthpiece, it is twisted 
to one side.  Then they had to file the baffle to try to get it to match 
the tip--and that baffle was crooked.  These poorly made mouthpieces 
should have been discarded as defective before ever leaving the shop, 
but they did.

 

The reading with the .010" feeler is as important as the previous 
reading.  It should be about 5 mm (or 10 increments) closer to the tip 
than the .0015" reading.  If your .0015" reads 50 (25 mm), your .010" 
should read about 40 (20mm).

>
> 4.)  Forget about wotking on it and just use it for hard core jazz
> where the low notes can be subtoned and/or do not have to be as
> finely articulated.
>
> ANY suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> BK

I would have to see it, it may require some baffle work.

Paul

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