I have started doing a little work in pieces, and have some tools, 
abrasives,etc. but would like to know from some experienced people.  
What is the easiest way to make a tip opening larger, if you just 
want to make the piece no more than 5 to 10 thousandths more open?

Thanks. 

To do the job right, you'll need gauges.  A glass gauge, feeler 
gauges, and a gauge for the tip opening.  You need to know where you 
are at and where you are going.  You'll need a target/goal facing 
curve and gauge numbers for it.

It is easier to do minimal table flattening and just cut the tip of 
the piece.  As it opens up, the tip rail will get wider on the inside 
as you cut into the material of the piece.  If the tip does not match 
the curve of the reeds you use, now is the time to fix that if you 
want to.  File the outside of the tip as needed.  Then 
scrape/file/sand the baffle near the inside of the tip rail to get a 
baffle shape and tip rail thickness you like.  

If you want a really thin tip rail (~.020"), the tip of the MP need 
to match the reed curve.  Otherwise a .032" wide rail is usually thin 
enough and will fit other reed brands reasonably well.

On prized vintage pieces that you do not want to mess with the baffle 
shape near the tip, it is best to open them up by cutting the table 
at an angle (if there is enough material to do so).  This is more 
difficult since the table will most likely become convex in the 
process.  It also takes a long time since you will be removing a lot 
more material in the table as compared to just reworking the rails 
and baffle near the tip.  

Sometimes a little more baffle is desirable on vintage pieces.  In 
this case, a tip cut is a better plan since it raises the baffle by 
lowering the rails to it.

FIRST, before any other work...

Measure, making a chart of the mouthpiece facing, mark the column Before.

Make sure the table is flat.  Take a few light strokes on 600 paper (on 
a flat work surfac).

Is the sanded area even and consistent over the whole table?  If not, 
keep working.

I do not work the break, the .0015" feeler area right away.  This is the 
hardest to get correct and you want most of the other work done first.

If the facing length is approximately correct, start with the back of 
the mouthpiece sligthly raised, and make a stroke, raising the back as 
you go.  As you get almost to the tip, watch for the marks on the paper 
to go from two lines to a wide smear, indicating you are on the tip 
rail.  Stop raising the back of the mouthpiece, or you will get a 
flip-up on the tip of the tip rail, and this makes a mouthpiece 
resistant and difficult to play.

Measure again.

Repeat all above

For only increasing the tip opening you will do more sanding from the 
middle toward the tip, but sill will work the area near the break too... 
just not as much.

When you are finally done, and both rails are even all the way down, you 
can get the facing length (.0015" feeler) right.  Check the .010".  For 
alto and tenor mouthpieces, there should be ABOUT 5 mm difference 
between the .0015" and the .010" (10 units on the Eric Brand glass 
gauge).  For bass sax, about 6 to 7 mm.

Next you must make the baffle flow into the new (now wider) tip rail.  
That is another story.

Paul



bluesnote2000 wrote:

> I have started doing a little work in pieces, and have some tools,
> abrasives,etc. but would like to know from some experienced people. 
> What is the easiest way to make a tip opening larger, if you just
> want to make the piece no more than 5 to 10 thousandths more open?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Got a Mouthpiece Work question?  Send it to MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
>
> Visit the site at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MouthpieceWork to see 
> the Files, Photos and Bookmarks relating to Mouthpiece Work.
>
> To see and modify your groups, go to http://groups.yahoo.com/mygroups
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>     * To visit your group on the web, go to:
>       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MouthpieceWork/
>        
>     * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>       MouthpieceWork-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>       <mailto:MouthpieceWork-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>        
>     * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
>       Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Bradbury" 
<kwbradbury@y...> wrote:
> To do the job right, you'll need gauges.  A glass gauge, feeler 
> gauges, and a gauge for the tip opening.  You need to know where 
you 
> are at and where you are going.  You'll need a target/goal facing 
> curve and gauge numbers for it.
> 
> It is easier to do minimal table flattening and just cut the tip of 
> the piece.  As it opens up, the tip rail will get wider on the 
inside 
> as you cut into the material of the piece.  If the tip does not 
match 
> the curve of the reeds you use, now is the time to fix that if you 
> want to.  File the outside of the tip as needed.  Then 
> scrape/file/sand the baffle near the inside of the tip rail to get 
a 
> baffle shape and tip rail thickness you like.  
> 
> If you want a really thin tip rail (~.020"), the tip of the MP need 
> to match the reed curve.  Otherwise a .032" wide rail is usually 
thin 
> enough and will fit other reed brands reasonably well.
> 
> On prized vintage pieces that you do not want to mess with the 
baffle 
> shape near the tip, it is best to open them up by cutting the table 
> at an angle (if there is enough material to do so).  This is more 
> difficult since the table will most likely become convex in the 
> process.  It also takes a long time since you will be removing a 
lot 
> more material in the table as compared to just reworking the rails 
> and baffle near the tip.  
> 
> Sometimes a little more baffle is desirable on vintage pieces.  In 
> this case, a tip cut is a better plan since it raises the baffle by 
> lowering the rails to it.

Hi:

THANKS for your help.  All I need to do now is get a liitle better at 
baffles, and make better looking tips.  The opening and facing curve 
thing is starting to flow a little better.  At least the pieces are 
staring to sound like something.

Bob

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Paul Coats <tenorman@t...> 
wrote:
> FIRST, before any other work...
> 
> Measure, making a chart of the mouthpiece facing, mark the column 
Before.
> 
> Make sure the table is flat.  Take a few light strokes on 600 paper 
(on 
> a flat work surfac).
> 
> Is the sanded area even and consistent over the whole table?  If 
not, 
> keep working.
> 
> I do not work the break, the .0015" feeler area right away.  This 
is the 
> hardest to get correct and you want most of the other work done 
first.
> 
> If the facing length is approximately correct, start with the back 
of 
> the mouthpiece sligthly raised, and make a stroke, raising the back 
as 
> you go.  As you get almost to the tip, watch for the marks on the 
paper 
> to go from two lines to a wide smear, indicating you are on the tip 
> rail.  Stop raising the back of the mouthpiece, or you will get a 
> flip-up on the tip of the tip rail, and this makes a mouthpiece 
> resistant and difficult to play.
> 
> Measure again.
> 
> Repeat all above
> 
> For only increasing the tip opening you will do more sanding from 
the 
> middle toward the tip, but sill will work the area near the break 
too... 
> just not as much.
> 
> When you are finally done, and both rails are even all the way 
down, you 
> can get the facing length (.0015" feeler) right.  Check the .010".  
For 
> alto and tenor mouthpieces, there should be ABOUT 5 mm difference 
> between the .0015" and the .010" (10 units on the Eric Brand glass 
> gauge).  For bass sax, about 6 to 7 mm.
> 
> Next you must make the baffle flow into the new (now wider) tip 
rail.  
> That is another story.
> 
> Paul
> 
> 
> 
> bluesnote2000 wrote:
> 
> > I have started doing a little work in pieces, and have some tools,
> > abrasives,etc. but would like to know from some experienced 
people. 
> > What is the easiest way to make a tip opening larger, if you just
> > want to make the piece no more than 5 to 10 thousandths more open?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> >
> >
> > Got a Mouthpiece Work question?  Send it to 
MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Visit the site at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MouthpieceWork to 
see 
> > the Files, Photos and Bookmarks relating to Mouthpiece Work.
> >
> > To see and modify your groups, go to 
http://groups.yahoo.com/mygroups
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
------
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >     * To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MouthpieceWork/
> >        
> >     * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >       MouthpieceWork-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >       <mailto:MouthpieceWork-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?
subject=Unsubscribe>
> >        
> >     * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> >       Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
> >Hey:

Thanks a lot for helping me.

BLuesnote
> >