None

>I do have a question. My Fossenkemper is missing the brass ring at the bottom of 
>the mouthpiece. Does anyone here know where I can get one?
>I'm near Dillon music here in New Jersey and their tech said he can make one for 
>me but if I can find one aleady to put on I'd do that first.

Replacement shank rings usually need to be custom made unless you can pull one 
off a similar mouthpiece that has been damamged.  Sometimes you can cut a ring 
off a metal tube that is close to the correct size and then use epoxy to fill in 
the gap.


      

I have an old obrien that has a chip in it. I took the brass ring off of that but it was too small for the fossenkemper. Dillon's brass technicians said they can make one for me.

Thanks,
Steve

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury <kwbradbury@...> wrote:
>
> >I do have a question. My Fossenkemper is missing the brass ring at the bottom of 
> >the mouthpiece. Does anyone here know where I can get one?
> >I'm near Dillon music here in New Jersey and their tech said he can make one for 
> >me but if I can find one aleady to put on I'd do that first.
> 
> Replacement shank rings usually need to be custom made unless you can pull one 
> off a similar mouthpiece that has been damamged.  Sometimes you can cut a ring 
> off a metal tube that is close to the correct size and then use epoxy to fill in 
> the gap.
>

http://www.alkol.avx.pl/guests.htm?saqybjrob706492&fivoh737

I recently acquired an HR piece with a crack in the shank. I would like to put on a shank ring to prevent it from getting worse over time.
 

 I haven't found any info online about this process.
 

 Some questions:
 Where can you get rings?
 How to fit them?
 What glue should you use to attach them permanently?
 What to use if you may want to remove it at some time in the future?
 Should I try to fill the crack with anything before applying the ring?
 

 Any responses would be much appreciated.
 

 Thanks!
 Mike

On Oct 9, 2014, at 9:22 AM, "mike@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

> 
> I recently acquired an HR piece with a crack in the shank. I would like to put on a shank ring to prevent it from getting worse over time.
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't found any info online about this process.
> 
> 
> 
> Some questions:
> 
> Where can you get rings?
> 
> YOU HAVE TO MAKE THEM

> How to fit them?
> 
> MEASURE VERY CAREFULLY

> What glue should you use to attach them permanently?
> 
> I USE GEL TYPE CA GLUE

> What to use if you may want to remove it at some time in the future?
> 
> WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO DO THAT?

> Should I try to fill the crack with anything before applying the ring?
> 
> THE RING SHOULD PRETTY MUCH CLOSE ANY CRACKS…..IT SHOULD FIT TIGHTLY
> 
> Any responses would be much appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> 

And what about material of the pipe? Is any metal strong enough if it is of reasonable thickness? 

 The mouthpiece I'm putting the ring on measures .893" outer diameter at it's widest and .889" at it's narrowest. What inner diameter size pipe should I buy? Or should I have a few sizes in the ballpark on hand to do a little trial and error fitting?
 

 Thanks again.

I pre-emptively banded a pair of tenor S80 mouthpieces, also shortened 
them a tad.
Not having a lathe to taper the inside of a heavier gauge aluminum 
tubing, I used some light gauge beach-chair tubing (I think that's what 
it was, had it in my scrap box), and filled the gap at the base of the 
mouthpiece with epoxy.

I can't see that you could go wrong with aluminum or brass.

Search the group archives on yahoo for post 10417 "Banding shanks", nice 
description by Paul Coates of how he does it.  He uses a lathe, tapers 
the inside of the shank ring to match the mouthpiece, and makes it 
slightly oversize, and coats the mouthpiece shank and the inside of the 
ring with epoxy to assemble.

Barry



On 10/9/2014 11:42 AM, mike@... [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
>
> And what about material of the pipe? Is any metal strong enough if it 
> is of reasonable thickness?
>
>
> The mouthpiece I'm putting the ring on measures .893" outer diameter 
> at it's widest and .889" at it's narrowest. What inner diameter size 
> pipe should I buy? Or should I have a few sizes in the ballpark on 
> hand to do a little trial and error fitting?
>
> Thanks again.
> 

For the best results and appearance, the mouthpiece has to be put on a lathe and the end of the shank turned down enough to fit the ring on so that the outer surface of the ring matches the outer diameter of the mouthpiece shank.  That insures that the surface is perfectly cylindrical - necessary for a good fit.  The ring can be made to match the original mouthpiece contour, if there is enough material to work with.  The attached pictures show a repair done on a Selmer Soloist using stainless steel.
 

     On Thursday, October 9, 2014 11:54 AM, "Barry Levine barrylevine@norwoodlight.com [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
   

      I pre-emptively banded a pair of tenor S80 mouthpieces, also shortened them a tad. 
 Not having a lathe to taper the inside of a heavier gauge aluminum tubing, I used some light gauge beach-chair tubing (I think that's what it was, had it in my scrap box), and filled the gap at the base of the mouthpiece with epoxy. 
 
 I can't see that you could go wrong with aluminum or brass.
 
 Search the group archives on yahoo for post 10417 "Banding shanks", nice description by Paul Coates of how he does it.  He uses a lathe, tapers the inside of the shank ring to match the mouthpiece, and makes it slightly oversize, and coats the mouthpiece shank and the inside of the ring with epoxy to assemble.
 
 Barry
 
 
 
 On 10/9/2014 11:42 AM, mike@... [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
  
    And what about material of the pipe? Is any metal strong enough if it is of reasonable thickness?  
  The mouthpiece I'm putting the ring on measures .893" outer diameter at it's widest and .889" at it's narrowest. What inner diameter size pipe should I buy? Or should I have a few sizes in the ballpark on hand to do a little trial and error fitting? 
  Thanks again.   
 
  #yiv0978624226 #yiv0978624226 -- #yiv0978624226ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv0978624226 #yiv0978624226ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv0978624226 #yiv0978624226ygrp-mkp #yiv0978624226hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv0978624226 #yiv0978624226ygrp-mkp #yiv0978624226ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv0978624226 #yiv0978624226ygrp-mkp .yiv0978624226ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv0978624226 #yiv0978624226ygrp-mkp .yiv0978624226ad p {margin:0;}#yiv0978624226 #yiv0978624226ygrp-mkp .yiv0978624226ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv0978624226 #yiv0978624226ygrp-sponsor #yiv0978624226ygrp-lc {font-family:Arial;}#yiv0978624226 #yiv0978624226ygrp-sponsor #yiv0978624226ygrp-lc #yiv0978624226hd {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}#yiv0978624226 #yiv0978624226ygrp-sponsor #yiv0978624226ygrp-lc .yiv0978624226ad {margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 0;}#yiv0978624226 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I should say, Brilhart Personaline.
 

     On Thursday, October 9, 2014 2:45 PM, MartinMods <lancelotburt@...> wrote:
   

 For the best results and appearance, the mouthpiece has to be put on a lathe and the end of the shank turned down enough to fit the ring on so that the outer surface of the ring matches the outer diameter of the mouthpiece shank.  That insures that the surface is perfectly cylindrical - necessary for a good fit.  The ring can be made to match the original mouthpiece contour, if there is enough material to work with.  The attached pictures show a repair done on a Selmer Soloist using stainless steel.
 

     On Thursday, October 9, 2014 11:54 AM, "Barry Levine barrylevine@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
   

      I pre-emptively banded a pair of tenor S80 mouthpieces, also shortened them a tad. 
 Not having a lathe to taper the inside of a heavier gauge aluminum tubing, I used some light gauge beach-chair tubing (I think that's what it was, had it in my scrap box), and filled the gap at the base of the mouthpiece with epoxy. 
 
 I can't see that you could go wrong with aluminum or brass.
 
 Search the group archives on yahoo for post 10417 "Banding shanks", nice description by Paul Coates of how he does it.  He uses a lathe, tapers the inside of the shank ring to match the mouthpiece, and makes it slightly oversize, and coats the mouthpiece shank and the inside of the ring with epoxy to assemble.
 
 Barry
 
 
 
 On 10/9/2014 11:42 AM, mike@mikewilkens.com [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
  
    And what about material of the pipe? Is any metal strong enough if it is of reasonable thickness?  
  The mouthpiece I'm putting the ring on measures .893" outer diameter at it's widest and .889" at it's narrowest. What inner diameter size pipe should I buy? Or should I have a few sizes in the ballpark on hand to do a little trial and error fitting? 
  Thanks again.   
 
  #yiv8786859930 -- #yiv8786859930ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv8786859930 #yiv8786859930ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv8786859930 #yiv8786859930ygrp-mkp #yiv8786859930hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv8786859930 #yiv8786859930ygrp-mkp #yiv8786859930ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv8786859930 #yiv8786859930ygrp-mkp .yiv8786859930ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv8786859930 #yiv8786859930ygrp-mkp .yiv8786859930ad p {margin:0;}#yiv8786859930 #yiv8786859930ygrp-mkp .yiv8786859930ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv8786859930 #yiv8786859930ygrp-sponsor #yiv8786859930ygrp-lc {font-family:Arial;}#yiv8786859930 #yiv8786859930ygrp-sponsor #yiv8786859930ygrp-lc #yiv8786859930hd {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}#yiv8786859930 #yiv8786859930ygrp-sponsor #yiv8786859930ygrp-lc .yiv8786859930ad {margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 0;}#yiv8786859930 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---In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com,  wrote :

 For the best results and appearance, the mouthpiece has to be put on a lathe and the end of the shank turned down enough to fit the ring on so that the outer surface of the ring matches the outer diameter of the mouthpiece shank.  That insures that the surface is perfectly cylindrical - necessary for a good fit.  The ring can be made to match the original mouthpiece contour, if there is enough material to work with.  The attached pictures show a repair done on a Selmer Soloist using stainless steel.


I do similarly.  I make the ring from aluminum tubing on a Micromark Mini-Lathe (7x14).  I  use a round nose bit to put a final pass on the ring bringing it to a nice shine, then very fine silicon carbide paper as it rotates, up to 1500 grit.

I use 5 minute epoxy to glue the ring on. 

Before applying the ring, I use electrical tape (because it goes around compound curves) to mask off where the 
glue will ooze at the front of the ring.  I also mask off the outside of the ring.

I put epoxy on the prepared shank and inside the ring.

When I push the ring on the ooze goes on the masked areas and is wiped off.  After it cures, voila!  clean!

Paul
 
 

That is some handsome work Lance.
The taper kinda helps too, because the farther you force the collar in, the tighter the joint.
Of course, you can plot the taper and diameter on both to be almost exact, the difference of the glue is the variable.


________________________________
 From: "MartinMods lancelotburt@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
Sent: Thursday, October 9, 2014 3:45 PM
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings [4 Attachments]
 


  
[Attachment(s) from MartinMods included below]
For the best results and appearance, the mouthpiece has to be put on a lathe and the end of the shank turned down enough to fit the ring on so that the outer surface of the ring matches the outer diameter of the mouthpiece shank.  That insures that the surface is perfectly cylindrical - necessary for a good fit.  The ring can be made to match the original mouthpiece contour, if there is enough material to work with.  The attached pictures show a repair done on a Selmer Soloist using stainless steel.



On Thursday, October 9, 2014 11:54 AM, "Barry Levine barrylevine@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 


  
I pre-emptively banded a pair of tenor S80 mouthpieces, also shortened them a tad. 
Not having a lathe to taper the inside of a heavier gauge aluminum
      tubing, I used some light gauge beach-chair tubing (I think that's
      what it was, had it in my scrap box), and filled the gap at the
      base of the mouthpiece with epoxy. 

I can't see that you could go wrong with aluminum or brass.

Search the group archives on yahoo for post 10417 "Banding
      shanks", nice description by Paul Coates of how he does it.  He
      uses a lathe, tapers the inside of the shank ring to match the
      mouthpiece, and makes it slightly oversize, and coats the
      mouthpiece shank and the inside of the ring with epoxy to
      assemble.

Barry



On 10/9/2014 11:42 AM, mike@... [MouthpieceWork] wrote:

  
>And what about material of the pipe? Is any metal strong enough if it is of reasonable thickness?
>
>
>The mouthpiece I'm putting the ring on measures .893" outer diameter at it's widest and .889" at it's narrowest. What inner diameter size pipe should I buy? Or should I have a few sizes in the ballpark on hand to do a little trial and error fitting?
>
>
>Thanks again.

I purchased an assortment of ~1 ft long tubing samples.  But I found that nearly all HR, plastic and wood shank cracks can be repaired using a 1" OD x .030" wall brass tube.   I sleeve the entire shank.  So the ID is .940".  It is a loose fit on most jobs.  I use JB Weld or 5 min clear epoxy which fills the gap.  On tight fits, I use a rotary tool and hand file to cut down the shank OD.  I do not own a lathe.

If you want to be able to take the ring off to view the original shank engraving, consider using a small radiator hose clamp and trim off the excess length.  You might want to do this for say a Brilhart Great Neck NY.  

These photos show a shank extension job that is similar to a shank reinforcement.

http://www.mojomouthpiecework.com/Photos/tabid/59/AlbumID/386-234/Default.aspx

PayPal as "Personal, Friend or Family" to: sabradbury79@...
Checks made out to "Keith W. Bradbury"
Mail to:
Mojo Mouthpiece Work LLC
2925 Crane St.
Vineland, NJ 08361

> On Oct 9, 2014, at 11:42 AM, mike@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
> And what about material of the pipe? Is any metal strong enough if it is of reasonable thickness?
> 
> 
> The mouthpiece I'm putting the ring on measures .893" outer diameter at it's widest and .889" at it's narrowest. What inner diameter size pipe should I buy? Or should I have a few sizes in the ballpark on hand to do a little trial and error fitting?
> 
> Thanks again.
> 

If you want down and dirty, turn down the very end and wrap with strong 
black thread, then completely soak the thread with cyanoacrylate 
superglue. The glue reinforces the thread and the thread stops the glue 
from cracking. It is very strong, and you don't have to manufacture and 
fit a ring. For looks you can sand and polish the thread, but obviously 
it won't look as nice as a ring.


On 10/11/2014 6:50 AM, Will Schmit anchornm@... [MouthpieceWork] 
wrote:
> That is some handsome work Lance.
> The taper kinda helps too, because the farther you force the collar 
> in, the tighter the joint.
> Of course, you can plot the taper and diameter on both to be almost 
> exact, the difference of the glue is the variable.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* "MartinMods lancelotburt@... [MouthpieceWork]" 
> <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
> *To:* "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 9, 2014 3:45 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings [4 Attachments]
>
> [Attachment(s) 
> <https://us-mg6.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=8mnaq8tkv1mje#TopText> 
> from MartinMods included below]
> For the best results and appearance, the mouthpiece has to be put on a 
> lathe and the end of the shank turned down enough to fit the ring on 
> so that the outer surface of the ring matches the outer diameter of 
> the mouthpiece shank.  That insures that the surface is perfectly 
> cylindrical - necessary for a good fit.  The ring can be made to match 
> the original mouthpiece contour, if there is enough material to work 
> with.  The attached pictures show a repair done on a Selmer Soloist 
> using stainless steel.
>
>
> On Thursday, October 9, 2014 11:54 AM, "Barry Levine 
> barrylevine@... [MouthpieceWork]" 
> <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
>
> I pre-emptively banded a pair of tenor S80 mouthpieces, also shortened 
> them a tad.
> Not having a lathe to taper the inside of a heavier gauge aluminum 
> tubing, I used some light gauge beach-chair tubing (I think that's 
> what it was, had it in my scrap box), and filled the gap at the base 
> of the mouthpiece with epoxy.
>
> I can't see that you could go wrong with aluminum or brass.
>
> Search the group archives on yahoo for post 10417 "Banding shanks", 
> nice description by Paul Coates of how he does it. He uses a lathe, 
> tapers the inside of the shank ring to match the mouthpiece, and makes 
> it slightly oversize, and coats the mouthpiece shank and the inside of 
> the ring with epoxy to assemble.
>
> Barry
>
>
>
> On 10/9/2014 11:42 AM, mike@... 
> <mailto:mike@...> [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
>> And what about material of the pipe? Is any metal strong enough if it 
>> is of reasonable thickness?
>>
>> The mouthpiece I'm putting the ring on measures .893" outer diameter 
>> at it's widest and .889" at it's narrowest. What inner diameter size 
>> pipe should I buy? Or should I have a few sizes in the ballpark on 
>> hand to do a little trial and error fitting?
>>
>> Thanks again.
>
>
>
>
>
> 

I used to wrap with music wire then coat with epoxy.  But I had one fail on a client so I just do metal sleeves now.   Onlinemetals.com is a good source for 10"-12" lengths.

> On Oct 12, 2014, at 5:59 AM, Toby kymarto123@ybb.ne.jp [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
> If you want down and dirty, turn down the very end and wrap with strong black thread, then completely soak the thread with cyanoacrylate superglue. The glue reinforces the thread and the thread stops the glue from cracking. It is very strong, and you don't have to manufacture and fit a ring. For looks you can sand and polish the thread, but obviously it won't look as nice as a ring.
> 
> 
>> On 10/11/2014 6:50 AM, Will Schmit anchornm@... [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
>>  
>> That is some handsome work Lance.
>> The taper kinda helps too, because the farther you force the collar in, the tighter the joint.
>> Of course, you can plot the taper and diameter on both to be almost exact, the difference of the glue is the variable.
>> 
>> From: "MartinMods lancelotburt@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@...m>
>> To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
>> Sent: Thursday, October 9, 2014 3:45 PM
>> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings [4 Attachments]
>> 
>>  
>> [Attachment(s) from MartinMods included below]
>> For the best results and appearance, the mouthpiece has to be put on a lathe and the end of the shank turned down enough to fit the ring on so that the outer surface of the ring matches the outer diameter of the mouthpiece shank.  That insures that the surface is perfectly cylindrical - necessary for a good fit.  The ring can be made to match the original mouthpiece contour, if there is enough material to work with.  The attached pictures show a repair done on a Selmer Soloist using stainless steel.
>> 
>> 
>> On Thursday, October 9, 2014 11:54 AM, "Barry Levine barrylevine@norwoodlight.com [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> I pre-emptively banded a pair of tenor S80 mouthpieces, also shortened them a tad. 
>> Not having a lathe to taper the inside of a heavier gauge aluminum tubing, I used some light gauge beach-chair tubing (I think that's what it was, had it in my scrap box), and filled the gap at the base of the mouthpiece with epoxy. 
>> 
>> I can't see that you could go wrong with aluminum or brass.
>> 
>> Search the group archives on yahoo for post 10417 "Banding shanks", nice description by Paul Coates of how he does it.  He uses a lathe, tapers the inside of the shank ring to match the mouthpiece, and makes it slightly oversize, and coats the mouthpiece shank and the inside of the ring with epoxy to assemble.
>> 
>> Barry
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 10/9/2014 11:42 AM, mike@... [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
>>>  
>>> And what about material of the pipe? Is any metal strong enough if it is of reasonable thickness?
>>> 
>>> The mouthpiece I'm putting the ring on measures .893" outer diameter at it's widest and .889" at it's narrowest. What inner diameter size pipe should I buy? Or should I have a few sizes in the ballpark on hand to do a little trial and error fitting?
>>> 
>>> Thanks again.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 

Toby, there is a high-tech string that is made from carbon fiber.  It is slightly sticky, because it is impregnated with the right amount of resin to set it up.
The resins are set up in a variety of methods, which include heat, pressure, catalyst, and UV light.
The family of filaments is called "pre-preg" or pre-impregnated.
They can be jet black, and are 10,000 times stronger than hard rubber.  A few winds of it can be coated with black resin, turned smooth, and polished.


________________________________
 From: "Toby kymarto123@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2014 3:59 AM
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings
 


  
If you want down and dirty, turn down the very end and wrap with strong black thread, then completely soak the thread with cyanoacrylate superglue. The glue reinforces the thread and the thread stops the glue from cracking. It is very strong, and you don't have to manufacture and fit a ring. For looks you can sand and polish the thread, but obviously it won't look as nice as a ring.


On 10/11/2014 6:50 AM, Will Schmit anchornm@... [MouthpieceWork] wrote:



  
>That is some handsome work Lance.
>The taper kinda helps too, because the farther you force the collar in, the tighter the joint.
>Of course, you can plot the taper and diameter on both to be almost exact, the difference of the glue is the variable.
>
>
>
>________________________________
> From: "MartinMods lancelotburt@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
>To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
>Sent: Thursday, October 9, 2014 3:45 PM
>Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings [4 Attachments]
> 
>
>
>  
>[Attachment(s) from MartinMods included below] 
>For the best results and appearance, the mouthpiece has to be put on a lathe and the end of the shank turned down enough to fit the ring on so that the outer surface of the ring matches the outer diameter of the mouthpiece shank.  That insures that the surface is perfectly cylindrical - necessary for a good fit.  The ring can be made to match the original mouthpiece contour, if there is enough material to work with.  The attached pictures show a repair done on a Selmer Soloist using stainless steel.
>
>
>
>
>On Thursday, October 9, 2014 11:54 AM, "Barry Levine barrylevine@norwoodlight.com [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
>
>
>  
>I pre-emptively banded a pair of tenor S80 mouthpieces, also shortened them a tad. 
>Not having a lathe
                                                      to taper the
                                                      inside of a
                                                      heavier gauge
                                                      aluminum tubing, I
                                                      used some light
                                                      gauge beach-chair
                                                      tubing (I think
                                                      that's what it
                                                      was, had it in my
                                                      scrap box), and
                                                      filled the gap at
                                                      the base of the
                                                      mouthpiece with
                                                      epoxy. 
>
>I can't see that
                                                      you could go wrong
                                                      with aluminum or
                                                      brass.
>
>Search the group
                                                      archives on yahoo
                                                      for post 10417
                                                      "Banding shanks",
                                                      nice description
                                                      by Paul Coates of
                                                      how he does it. 
                                                      He uses a lathe,
                                                      tapers the inside
                                                      of the shank ring
                                                      to match the
                                                      mouthpiece, and
                                                      makes it slightly
                                                      oversize, and
                                                      coats the
                                                      mouthpiece shank
                                                      and the inside of
                                                      the ring with
                                                      epoxy to assemble.
>
>Barry
>
>
>
>On 10/9/2014 11:42
                                                      AM, mike@mikewilkens.com [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
>
>  
>>And what about material of the pipe? Is any metal strong enough if it is of reasonable thickness?
>>
>>
>>The mouthpiece I'm putting the ring on measures .893" outer diameter at it's widest and .889" at it's narrowest. What inner diameter size pipe should I buy? Or should I have a few sizes in the ballpark on hand to do a little trial and error fitting?
>>
>>
>>Thanks again.
>
>
>
>
>

I have seen this used in clarinet repairs on some web sites.  Do you have a source for materials?


> On Oct 12, 2014, at 12:37 PM, Will Schmit anchornm@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
> Toby, there is a high-tech string that is made from carbon fiber.  It is slightly sticky, because it is impregnated with the right amount of resin to set it up.
> The resins are set up in a variety of methods, which include heat, pressure, catalyst, and UV light.
> The family of filaments is called "pre-preg" or pre-impregnated.
> They can be jet black, and are 10,000 times stronger than hard rubber.  A few winds of it can be coated with black resin, turned smooth, and polished.
> 
> From: "Toby kymarto123@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
> To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
> Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2014 3:59 AM
> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings
> 
>  
> If you want down and dirty, turn down the very end and wrap with strong black thread, then completely soak the thread with cyanoacrylate superglue. The glue reinforces the thread and the thread stops the glue from cracking. It is very strong, and you don't have to manufacture and fit a ring. For looks you can sand and polish the thread, but obviously it won't look as nice as a ring.
> 
> 
> On 10/11/2014 6:50 AM, Will Schmit anchornm@... [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
> 
> 
>>  
>> That is some handsome work Lance.
>> The taper kinda helps too, because the farther you force the collar in, the tighter the joint.
>> Of course, you can plot the taper and diameter on both to be almost exact, the difference of the glue is the variable.
>> 
>> From: "MartinMods lancelotburt@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
>> To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
>> Sent: Thursday, October 9, 2014 3:45 PM
>> Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings [4 Attachments]
>> 
>>  
>> [Attachment(s) from MartinMods included below]
>> For the best results and appearance, the mouthpiece has to be put on a lathe and the end of the shank turned down enough to fit the ring on so that the outer surface of the ring matches the outer diameter of the mouthpiece shank.  That insures that the surface is perfectly cylindrical - necessary for a good fit.  The ring can be made to match the original mouthpiece contour, if there is enough material to work with.  The attached pictures show a repair done on a Selmer Soloist using stainless steel.
>> 
>> 
>> On Thursday, October 9, 2014 11:54 AM, "Barry Levine barrylevine@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> I pre-emptively banded a pair of tenor S80 mouthpieces, also shortened them a tad. 
>> Not having a lathe to taper the inside of a heavier gauge aluminum tubing, I used some light gauge beach-chair tubing (I think that's what it was, had it in my scrap box), and filled the gap at the base of the mouthpiece with epoxy. 
>> 
>> I can't see that you could go wrong with aluminum or brass.
>> 
>> Search the group archives on yahoo for post 10417 "Banding shanks", nice description by Paul Coates of how he does it.  He uses a lathe, tapers the inside of the shank ring to match the mouthpiece, and makes it slightly oversize, and coats the mouthpiece shank and the inside of the ring with epoxy to assemble.
>> 
>> Barry
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 10/9/2014 11:42 AM, mike@mikewilkens.com [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
>>>  
>>> And what about material of the pipe? Is any metal strong enough if it is of reasonable thickness?
>>> 
>>> The mouthpiece I'm putting the ring on measures .893" outer diameter at it's widest and .889" at it's narrowest. What inner diameter size pipe should I buy? Or should I have a few sizes in the ballpark on hand to do a little trial and error fitting?
>>> 
>>> Thanks again.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

Carbon fiber string  sounds expensive. Do you really need that kind of strength in this application? I have used strong thread, thin string and nylon fishing string. I usually coat it with a couple of layers of clear  nail polish to finish it off. The best way is to make a lashing like you do on rope so that the end of the filament is pulled back under the wrapping.
  It  looks  fine and quite  elegant , like a nice old  fishing pole or the the handle bars on the traditional cork wrapping on a bicycle.
  My old Selmer S80  bari piece is still fine  12 years after  this repair.    Peter


On Sunday, October 12, 2014 9:37 AM, "Will Schmit anchornm@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 


  
Toby, there is a high-tech string that is made from carbon fiber.  It is slightly sticky, because it is impregnated with the right amount of resin to set it up.
The resins are set up in a variety of methods, which include heat, pressure, catalyst, and UV light.
The family of filaments is called "pre-preg" or pre-impregnated.
They can be jet black, and are 10,000 times stronger than hard rubber.  A few winds of it can be coated with black resin, turned smooth, and polished.


________________________________
 From: "Toby kymarto123@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2014 3:59 AM
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings
 


  
If you want down and dirty, turn down the very end and wrap with strong black thread, then completely soak the thread with cyanoacrylate superglue. The glue reinforces the thread and the thread stops the glue from cracking. It is very strong, and you don't have to manufacture and fit a ring. For looks you can sand and polish the thread, but obviously it won't look as nice as a ring.


On 10/11/2014 6:50 AM, Will Schmit anchornm@... [MouthpieceWork] wrote:



  
>That is some handsome work Lance.
>The taper kinda helps too, because the farther you force the collar in, the tighter the joint.
>Of course, you can plot the taper and diameter on both to be almost exact, the difference of the glue is the variable.
>
>
>
>________________________________
> From: "MartinMods lancelotburt@yahoo.com [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
>To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
>Sent: Thursday, October 9, 2014 3:45 PM
>Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings [4 Attachments]
> 
>
>
>  
>[Attachment(s) from MartinMods included below] 
>For the best results and appearance, the mouthpiece has to be put on a lathe and the end of the shank turned down enough to fit the ring on so that the outer surface of the ring matches the outer diameter of the mouthpiece shank.  That insures that the surface is perfectly cylindrical - necessary for a good fit.  The ring can be made to match the original mouthpiece contour, if there is enough material to work with.  The attached pictures show a repair done on a Selmer Soloist using stainless steel.
>
>
>
>
>On Thursday, October 9, 2014 11:54 AM, "Barry Levine barrylevine@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
>
>
>  
>I pre-emptively banded a pair of tenor S80 mouthpieces, also shortened them a tad. 
>Not having a lathe
                                                      to taper the
                                                      inside of a
                                                      heavier gauge
                                                      aluminum tubing, I
                                                      used some light
                                                      gauge beach-chair
                                                      tubing (I think
                                                      that's what it
                                                      was, had it in my
                                                      scrap box), and
                                                      filled the gap at
                                                      the base of the
                                                      mouthpiece with
                                                      epoxy. 
>
>I can't see that
                                                      you could go wrong
                                                      with aluminum or
                                                      brass.
>
>Search the group
                                                      archives on yahoo
                                                      for post 10417
                                                      "Banding shanks",
                                                      nice description
                                                      by Paul Coates of
                                                      how he does it. 
                                                      He uses a lathe,
                                                      tapers the inside
                                                      of the shank ring
                                                      to match the
                                                      mouthpiece, and
                                                      makes it slightly
                                                      oversize, and
                                                      coats the
                                                      mouthpiece shank
                                                      and the inside of
                                                      the ring with
                                                      epoxy to assemble.
>
>Barry
>
>
>
>On 10/9/2014 11:42
                                                      AM, mike@... [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
>
>  
>>And what about material of the pipe? Is any metal strong enough if it is of reasonable thickness?
>>
>>
>>The mouthpiece I'm putting the ring on measures .893" outer diameter at it's widest and .889" at it's narrowest. What inner diameter size pipe should I buy? Or should I have a few sizes in the ballpark on hand to do a little trial and error fitting?
>>
>>
>>Thanks again.
>
>
>
>
>

Sorry, Keith...Just mentioning it as a point of reference.I bought some sheet pre-preg for a bicycle project for which I was a consultant.As I recall, there were thousands of variables (strength, weight, thickness).I believe the product best for mouthpieces would be called "tape".Typically, a CNC machine "pays-out" the fiber along a known path (designated by the computer), and lays it up in a criss cross manner.There is no reason this couldn't be done by hand.The material had to be kept in a freezer.  At room temperature, it cures in about a week.  Typically, you wind it, then put the bike (or mouthpiece) in an oven.  It only takes 150F to cure it in 24 hours.
      From: "Keith Bradbury kwbradbury@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
 To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
 Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2014 11:10 AM
 Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings
   
    I have seen this used in clarinet repairs on some web sites.  Do you have a source for materials?



On Oct 12, 2014, at 12:37 PM, Will Schmit anchornm@... [MouthpieceWork] <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


    Toby, there is a high-tech string that is made from carbon fiber.  It is slightly sticky, because it is impregnated with the right amount of resin to set it up.The resins are set up in a variety of methods, which include heat, pressure, catalyst, and UV light.The family of filaments is called "pre-preg" or pre-impregnated.They can be jet black, and are 10,000 times stronger than hard rubber.  A few winds of it can be coated with black resin, turned smooth, and polished.
      From: "Toby kymarto123@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
 To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2014 3:59 AM
 Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings
   
     If you want down and dirty, turn down the very end and wrap with strong black thread, then completely soak the thread with cyanoacrylate superglue. The glue reinforces the thread and the thread stops the glue from cracking. It is very strong, and you don't have to manufacture and fit a ring. For looks you can sand and polish the thread, but obviously it won't look as nice as a ring.
 
 
 On 10/11/2014 6:50 AM, Will Schmit anchornm@... [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
  


     That is some handsome work Lance. The taper kinda helps too, because the farther you force the collar in, the tighter the joint. Of course, you can plot the taper and diameter on both to be almost exact, the difference of the glue is the variable. 
       From: "MartinMods lancelotburt@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
 To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
 Sent: Thursday, October 9, 2014 3:45 PM
 Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings [4 Attachments]
   
        [Attachment(s) from MartinMods included below] For the best results and appearance, the mouthpiece has to be put on a lathe and the end of the shank  turned down enough to fit the ring on so that the outer surface of the ring matches the outer diameter of the mouthpiece shank.  That insures that the surface is perfectly cylindrical - necessary for a good fit.  The ring can be made to match the original mouthpiece contour, if there is enough material to  work with.  The attached pictures show a repair done on a Selmer Soloist using stainless steel.
  
 
        On Thursday, October 9, 2014 11:54 AM, "Barry Levine  barrylevine@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
   
 
           I pre-emptively banded a pair of  tenor S80 mouthpieces, also shortened them a  tad. 
 Not having a lathe to taper the  inside of a heavier gauge aluminum tubing, I  used some light gauge beach-chair  tubing (I think that's what it was, had it in my  scrap box), and filled the gap at the base of the mouthpiece with epoxy. 
 
 I can't see that you could go wrong  with aluminum or brass.
 
 Search the group archives on yahoo  for post 10417 "Banding shanks", nice description  by Paul Coates of how he does it.  He uses a lathe, tapers the inside  of the shank ring to match the mouthpiece, and  makes it slightly oversize, and  coats the mouthpiece shank and the inside of  the ring with epoxy to assemble.
 
 Barry
 
 
 
 On 10/9/2014 11:42 AM, mike@mikewilkens.com [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
  
    And what about material of the pipe?  Is any metal strong enough if it is of reasonable thickness?  
  The mouthpiece I'm putting the  ring on measures .893" outer diameter  at it's widest and .889" at  it's narrowest. What inner  diameter size pipe should I  buy? Or should I have a few sizes in the  ballpark on hand to do a  little trial and error fitting? 
  Thanks again.   
 
     
 
           
 
        
 
  

     
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JL Smith has a 12 foot pack of carbon fiber ribbon for $16.  I've done some mouthpieces and barrels with this and it looks great!
Craig

There is no reason that this couldn't be done by separating a few strands from fiberglass packing tape, then dragging them through some mixed-up epoxy resin -- winding them as needed, then finishing with opaque black epoxy resin.
      From: "Peter Deley pfdeley@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
 To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
 Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2014 12:48 PM
 Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings
   
    Carbon fiber string  sounds expensive. Do you really need that kind of strength in this application? I have used strong thread, thin string and nylon fishing string. I usually coat it with a couple of layers of clear  nail polish to finish it off. The best way is to make a lashing like you do on rope so that the end of the filament is pulled back under the wrapping.  It  looks  fine and quite  elegant , like a nice old  fishing pole or the the handle bars on the traditional cork wrapping on a bicycle.  My old Selmer S80  bari piece is still fine  12 years after  this repair.    Peter 

     On Sunday, October 12, 2014 9:37 AM, "Will Schmit anchornm@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
   

     Toby, there is a high-tech string that is made from carbon fiber.  It is slightly sticky, because it is impregnated with the right amount of resin to set it up.The resins are set up in a variety of methods, which include heat, pressure, catalyst, and UV light.The family of filaments is called "pre-preg" or pre-impregnated.They can be jet black, and are 10,000 times stronger than hard rubber.  A few winds of it can be coated with black resin, turned smooth, and polished.
      From: "Toby kymarto123@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
 To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2014 3:59 AM
 Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings
   
     If you want down and dirty, turn down the very end and wrap with strong black thread, then completely soak the thread with cyanoacrylate superglue. The glue reinforces the thread and the thread stops the glue from cracking. It is very strong, and you don't have to manufacture and fit a ring. For looks you can sand and polish the thread, but obviously it won't look as nice as a ring.
 
 
 On 10/11/2014 6:50 AM, Will Schmit anchornm@... [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
  


     That is some handsome work Lance. The taper kinda helps too, because the farther you force the collar in, the tighter the joint. Of course, you can plot the taper and diameter on both to be almost exact, the difference of the glue is the variable. 
       From: "MartinMods lancelotburt@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
 To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
 Sent: Thursday, October 9, 2014 3:45 PM
 Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings [4 Attachments]
   
        [Attachment(s) from MartinMods included below] For the best results and appearance, the mouthpiece has to be put on a lathe and the end of the shank turned down enough to fit the ring on so that the outer surface of the ring matches the outer diameter of the  mouthpiece shank.  That insures that the surface is perfectly cylindrical - necessary for a good fit.  The ring can be made to match the original mouthpiece contour, if there is enough material to work with.  The attached pictures show a repair done on a Selmer Soloist using stainless steel.
  
 
        On Thursday, October 9, 2014 11:54 AM, "Barry Levine barrylevine@norwoodlight.com [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
   
 
           I pre-emptively banded a pair of tenor S80 mouthpieces, also shortened them a  tad. 
 Not having a lathe to taper the inside of a heavier gauge aluminum tubing, I  used some light gauge beach-chair tubing (I think that's what it was, had it in my scrap box), and filled the gap at the base of the mouthpiece with epoxy. 
 
 I can't see that you could go wrong with aluminum or brass.
 
 Search the group archives on yahoo for post 10417 "Banding shanks", nice description  by Paul Coates of how he does it.  He uses a lathe, tapers the inside of the shank ring to match the mouthpiece, and  makes it slightly oversize, and coats the mouthpiece shank and the inside of the ring with epoxy to assemble.
 
 Barry
 
 
 
 On 10/9/2014 11:42 AM, mike@... [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
  
    And what about material of the pipe? Is any metal strong enough if it is of  reasonable thickness?  
  The mouthpiece I'm putting the ring on measures .893" outer diameter  at it's widest and .889" at it's narrowest. What inner  diameter size pipe should I buy? Or should I have a few sizes in the ballpark on  hand to do a little trial and error fitting? 
  Thanks again.   
 
     
 
           
 
        
 
  

     

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Thanks Will,
The original shank taper was cut down to a stepped (2 diameters) cylidrical shape actually.  No glue - a tight fit in a cool room keeps the crack closed at normal temperatures.


     On Sunday, October 12, 2014 12:53 PM, "Will Schmit anchornm@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
   

     There is no reason that this couldn't be done by separating a few strands from fiberglass packing tape, then dragging them through some mixed-up epoxy resin -- winding them as needed, then finishing with opaque black epoxy resin.
      From: "Peter Deley pfdeley@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
 To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
 Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2014 12:48 PM
 Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings
   
    Carbon fiber string  sounds expensive. Do you really need that kind of strength in this application? I have used strong thread, thin string and nylon fishing string. I usually coat it with a couple of layers of clear  nail polish to finish it off. The best way is to make a lashing like you do on rope so that the end of the filament is pulled back under the wrapping.  It  looks  fine and quite  elegant , like a nice old  fishing pole or the the handle bars on the traditional cork wrapping on a bicycle.  My old Selmer S80  bari piece is still fine  12 years after  this repair.    Peter 

     On Sunday, October 12, 2014 9:37 AM, "Will Schmit anchornm@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
   

     Toby, there is a high-tech string that is made from carbon fiber.  It is slightly sticky, because it is impregnated with the right amount of resin to set it up.The resins are set up in a variety of methods, which include heat, pressure, catalyst, and UV light.The family of filaments is called "pre-preg" or pre-impregnated.They can be jet black, and are 10,000 times stronger than hard rubber.  A few winds of it can be coated with black resin, turned smooth, and polished.
      From: "Toby kymarto123@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
 To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2014 3:59 AM
 Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings
   
     If you want down and dirty, turn down the very end and wrap with strong black thread, then completely soak the thread with cyanoacrylate superglue. The glue reinforces the thread and the thread stops the glue from cracking. It is very strong, and you don't have to manufacture and fit a ring. For looks you can sand and polish the thread, but obviously it won't look as nice as a ring.
 
 
 On 10/11/2014 6:50 AM, Will Schmit anchornm@... [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
  


     That is some handsome work Lance. The taper kinda helps too, because the farther you force the collar in, the tighter the joint. Of course, you can plot the taper and diameter on both to be almost exact, the difference of the glue is the variable. 
       From: "MartinMods lancelotburt@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com>
 To: "MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> 
 Sent: Thursday, October 9, 2014 3:45 PM
 Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Shank Rings [4 Attachments]
   
        [Attachment(s) from MartinMods included below] For the best results and appearance, the mouthpiece has to be put on a lathe and the end of the shank turned down enough to fit the ring on so that the outer surface of the ring matches the outer diameter of the  mouthpiece shank.  That insures that the surface is perfectly cylindrical - necessary for a good fit.  The ring can be made to match the original mouthpiece contour, if there is enough material to work with.  The attached pictures show a repair done on a Selmer Soloist using stainless steel.
  
 
        On Thursday, October 9, 2014 11:54 AM, "Barry Levine barrylevine@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
   
 
           I pre-emptively banded a pair of tenor S80 mouthpieces, also shortened them a  tad. 
 Not having a lathe to taper the inside of a heavier gauge aluminum tubing, I  used some light gauge beach-chair tubing (I think that's what it was, had it in my scrap box), and filled the gap at the base of the mouthpiece with epoxy. 
 
 I can't see that you could go wrong with aluminum or brass.
 
 Search the group archives on yahoo for post 10417 "Banding shanks", nice description  by Paul Coates of how he does it.  He uses a lathe, tapers the inside of the shank ring to match the mouthpiece, and  makes it slightly oversize, and coats the mouthpiece shank and the inside of the ring with epoxy to assemble.
 
 Barry
 
 
 
 On 10/9/2014 11:42 AM, mike@mikewilkens.com [MouthpieceWork] wrote:
  
    And what about material of the pipe? Is any metal strong enough if it is of  reasonable thickness?  
  The mouthpiece I'm putting the ring on measures .893" outer diameter  at it's widest and .889" at it's narrowest. What inner  diameter size pipe should I buy? Or should I have a few sizes in the ballpark on  hand to do a little trial and error fitting? 
  Thanks again.   
 
     
 
           
 
        
 
  

     

      

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One thing I do not bother doing is trying to put glue in the crack.  It is a total waste of time.

When the mouthpiece is on the cork the crack is spread, gets full of cork grease.  There is 
no way you can get into that crack to remove the cork grease and clean the surfaces inside 
the crack, so no glue will get a bond to the mouthpiece material.

Banding is the only way you can stop the crack from progressing.  Whether you do it with 
a metal band, or wrapping, not much different, but a metal band is a more attractive repair.

A good thread to use for wrapping shanks is unwaxed dental floss.  It is tremendously 
strong.

Paul C.

A nicely wrapped repair (ala fishing rod) is nice looking too.  

If you fit your metal band tightly at a cool temperature, it will never come off at room temp or warmer, as the hr/plastic is subject to more themal expansion than metal.  You don't need to glue/epoxy anything.
 

     On Monday, October 13, 2014 3:48 AM, "tenorman1952@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
   

     One thing I do not bother doing is trying to put glue in the crack.  It is a total waste of time.

When the mouthpiece is on the cork the crack is spread, gets full of cork grease.  There is 
no way you can get into that crack to remove the cork grease and clean the surfaces inside 
the crack, so no glue will get a bond to the mouthpiece material.

Banding is the only way you can stop the crack from progressing.  Whether you do it with 
a metal band, or wrapping, not much different, but a metal band is a more attractive repair.

A good thread to use for wrapping shanks is unwaxed dental floss.  It is tremendously 
strong.

Paul C.  #yiv6255306410 #yiv6255306410 -- #yiv6255306410ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv6255306410 #yiv6255306410ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv6255306410 #yiv6255306410ygrp-mkp #yiv6255306410hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv6255306410 #yiv6255306410ygrp-mkp #yiv6255306410ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv6255306410 #yiv6255306410ygrp-mkp .yiv6255306410ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv6255306410 #yiv6255306410ygrp-mkp .yiv6255306410ad p {margin:0;}#yiv6255306410 #yiv6255306410ygrp-mkp .yiv6255306410ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv6255306410 #yiv6255306410ygrp-sponsor #yiv6255306410ygrp-lc {font-family:Arial;}#yiv6255306410 #yiv6255306410ygrp-sponsor #yiv6255306410ygrp-lc #yiv6255306410hd {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}#yiv6255306410 #yiv6255306410ygrp-sponsor #yiv6255306410ygrp-lc .yiv6255306410ad {margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 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I'm really surprised that you don't own a lathe. Remarkable flexibility that it gives you on sizing stock, facing off diameters for repairs, not to mention making saxophone parts. I bought one of the early Chinese lathes about 10 years ago...getting it 'tight and right' was a summer project including lapping and fitting (it was really more of a lathe kit, but all the castings proved solid). Has been a real workhorse for me. I have a number of jam blocks for mounting up mouthpieces.  

 jeff (aka shmuelyosef)

Once you use one, it's difficult to imagine being without.
 

     On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 1:19 PM, "sjrosner@... [MouthpieceWork]" <MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
   

     I'm really surprised that you don't own a lathe. Remarkable flexibility that it gives you on sizing stock, facing off diameters for repairs, not to mention making saxophone parts. I bought one of the early Chinese lathes about 10 years ago...getting it 'tight and right' was a summer project including lapping and fitting (it was really more of a lathe kit, but all the castings proved solid). Has been a real workhorse for me. I have a number of jam blocks for mounting up mouthpieces. 
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I bought the Micromark 7x14 lathe (7" diameter, up to 14" length) and have been VERY 
happy with it.  I still have not explored all I can do with it, but I have made very nice 
shank rings.  For example, I have not yet learned to thread with it.

I did buy some asst sizes of Delrin rod to learn on, which is a self lubricating plastic that 
is very strong, and cuts very easily.  

I have brass and aluminum stock that I have used to made shank rings.

Anyway, an excellent addition to my shop.

Paul C.