I have been tinkering with an old Goldentone mpc and have the lay the
way I want it. Now, the tip rail is very wide and I think I should
file it from the window side towards the tip in order to keep the lay
the same. Is this correct?
I assume that after I do this i will have to build up the baffle and
reshape it after this is all done?
Thanks! 

Patrick wrote:

>  I have been tinkering with an old Goldentone mpc and have the lay the
>
> way I want it. Now, the tip rail is very wide and I think I should
> file it from the window side towards the tip in order to keep the lay
> the same. Is this correct?

Yes.

>
> I assume that after I do this i will have to build up the baffle and
> reshape it after this is all done?
> Thanks!

No, after increasing the tip opening, the tip rail becomes wider, and
the baffle is closer to the plane of the table.  You need to blend that
back to the tip rail as it was before.

Use a narrow file that tapers to a point.

Hold the mouthpiece flat on the workbench, with the table side up.  If
you are right handed, hold it in your left hand, file in the right.

Using the area of the file about 1/4" (6mm or so) back from the point,
start at the centerline of the mouthpiece, and move the file in a small
circular motion.  At the same time work toward the sides.

Position the file so that it is held at an angle to the mouthpiece
slightly less than the angle of the tip rail.  As you work back toward
the throat, gradually make the angle less, so that it blends on back
into the roof of the mouthpiece.  You will probably not have to reshape
more than about 1/4" of baffle.

Once you have it shaped correctly, and the tip rail is like you want it,
the baffle will have file marks.  Wrap the file with some 600 grip
silicon carbide paper, and smooth the baffle.  Repeat with 800 grit.

At this point, the mouthpiece will play alright, but the dull area on
the baffle does not look "finished".

I make a tool, which lasts for quite a while, as Santy Runyon showed
me.  Using a piece of 1/4" wood dowel, about 6" long, grind a flat on
the dowel for about 1".  On this flat, glue a piece of 1/16" cork.  On
the cork, glue a piece of chamois.  This is your baffle polishing tool.

Using a plastic polishing compound (or Flitz metal polish will work),
such as Kit Scratch Out (available in automotive stores, for polishing
plexiglass windshields and motorbike helmet face shields) polish the
dull area.  A few drops of water may help.  Be careful to not touch the
facing.

With a soft cloth, by hand, polish the rest of the mouthpiece, except
for the table and facing.

Now, to put the finishing touch on the facing, turn a piece of silicon
carbide paper grit side down.  The paper backing will have enough
silicon carbide dust to give a nice polish to the table.  Two or three
strokes on the table will give it a nice finish.  One light stroke along
the facing will put a nice finish there, too.

Now, doesn't that look nice?

Paul

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--
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  http://www.saxontheweb.net

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  http://www.saxontheweb.net/Coats/

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and view photos.

In addition to what Paul said:

Evaluate the sharpness of the tip after you opened the piece.  If you think
it is too pointy (your judgement), make the tip rail thinner by filing the
tip curve.  This will change your facing since you are now moving your zero
point.  But this is often needed.  You can then decide if you need to
rework the facing some more.  It pays to consider tip sharpness before you
do you "final" facing work.

On thinning the tip rail on the inside, there are a few ways to blend it
into the baffle.  I do not care for roll-over baffles, but that is one
strategy.  You can make a big one, little one, whatever.  On low baffle
pieces, I prefer a short baffle "shelf" that is about 1/4" from the tip,
then it falls off.  Many great vintage Links have this design.  Some have
roll-overs.  On higher baffle pieces, I like a subtle "lake".  Bergs have a
short, deep lake.  I like one that is about twice as long and more flat
than a depression.  JVW did this to my Quantum bari before I was into
refacing.  I've done a number since then and find it to be the way to go on
high baffle pieces.  Works great on Dukoff Ds, etc.


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