In thinking about how to ask my question, I realized I don't know all 
the terminology associated with a mouthpiece. Is there a diagram 
somewhere that shows the names of the mouth piece parts? I have the 
Erick Brand manual, and it helps, but not completely.

Here goes.

I just got a soprano mouthpiece via eBay. It's labeled "steelite 
ebonite".

I gave it a brief try, and it may be my best playing mouthpiece. 
However, its throat diameter is too large (maybe 1mm), and it wobbles 
on the sax neck. I have several other mouthpieces that fit fine, so I 
know the neck cork is sized okay. I can't push it down to the end of 
the neck cork, because the neck hits the end of the throat.

How would this problem be corrected at the mouthpiece? Also, what 
might the composition of steel ebonite be?

Bill

On the Mouthpiece Work site, there is a Mouthpiece Nomenclature 
document in the Files, Methods section.  Also see:

http://www.mouthpieceheaven.com/content/refacing.htm

There is some variation in the terminology, but not enough to cause 
major confusion.

I think Steel Ebonite is just a very hard, hard rubber.

I have made bores smaller by "painting" a layer of creamy epoxy inside the
mouthpiece and sanding it smooth.

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Keith,

Great tip.

I don't need much. When I first tried the mouthpiece I greased the 
cork. When I tried the mpc, after a few days without greasing the 
cork, it almost fit. I think 1 mm or less will do.

How do you get the bore round while sanding?

Thanks,
Bill

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury 
<kwbradbury@y...> wrote:
> I think Steel Ebonite is just a very hard, hard rubber.
> 
> I have made bores smaller by "painting" a layer of creamy epoxy 
inside the
> mouthpiece and sanding it smooth.
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> http://sbc.yahoo.com

>How do you get the bore round while sanding?

Low tech.  I use my finger to feel the bumps and I sand them down.

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Keith,

Creamy epoxy: Are you refering to a two part epoxy mix?

The inside of the mpc should be coarse sanded first, to rough it up, 
to help the epoxy stick, correct?

Bill


--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Keith Bradbury 
<kwbradbury@y...> wrote:
> I think Steel Ebonite is just a very hard, hard rubber.
> 
> I have made bores smaller by "painting" a layer of creamy epoxy 
inside the
> mouthpiece and sanding it smooth.
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> http://sbc.yahoo.com

By creamy, I mean not a putty.  I've used a 5-min clear epoxy, but I'm
thinking of trying JB Weld next time.  The slower cure time may allow
finger smoothing before it sets.

If the surface looks polished (glossy) I would roughen it some first.

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JB Weld smears very well with a slightly wet finger. I
form baffles all the time with JB Weld and use the
flat side of a wet exacto blade to make it go where I
want without sticking.

One of my favorite non-metal alto mouthpieces is a
Brihart Ebolin that a dog chewed up. JB Weld worked
great for filling in bad spots in the rails and
replacing a huge chunk of the tip.

After all the great tips,I picked up some JB weld, and was ready to 
go to work.

Problem is it's a soprano mpc, and using my finger (too big) is out 
of the question. There's always a new challenge.

Bill


--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Jon Lloyd <jg_lloyd@s...> 
wrote:
> JB Weld smears very well with a slightly wet finger. I
> form baffles all the time with JB Weld and use the
> flat side of a wet exacto blade to make it go where I
> want without sticking.
> 
> One of my favorite non-metal alto mouthpieces is a
> Brihart Ebolin that a dog chewed up. JB Weld worked
> great for filling in bad spots in the rails and
> replacing a huge chunk of the tip.

The nail care section of the local drugstore has lots
of inexpensive items that can be used for mouthpiece
work.

For instance, I bought a pack of 20 cardboard
fingernail files on sale for $1.50. They work great
for filing soft material that tends to clog up
jeweler's files. You can cut the files to fit into
nooks and crannies. Metal fingernail files can be
really cheap too.

Fingernail polishing boards are great for shining up
an area on metal pieces. After refacing, I give the
mouthpiece a couple of easy swipes across the "extra
fine" side to give the rails a polished look. I also
use the boards for polishing off burrs on the end of
key rods when doing overhauls.

Wooden cuticle tools are great for spreading epoxy.

At the hardware store I've bought several sizes of
vinyl and delrin tubing for changing the chamber or
throat diameter. Vinyl tubing is really easy to cut
and shape for experimenting.

There's are some other items that I can't remember at
the moment.

Stencilman

--- In MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com, Jon Lloyd <jg_lloyd@s...> 
wrote:
> The nail care section of the local drugstore has lots
> of inexpensive items that can be used for mouthpiece
> work.

Good idea. I have a metal bladed palette knife with a rounded tip and 
a wooden handle that I'm going to try with my tenor pieces.

Gregg