I thought I'd try and buy the two parts that I need without buying 
all the rest that I don't need.  So if there's someone out there who 
would interested in selling..... I'm buying.

Thanks,

Fred

Try not to feel snubbed.  Paul may be the only member of this group who has
these items.

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I'm sure he would greatly appreciate your humor as he stands out there in the Texas heat measuring pressure.

Fred
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Keith Bradbury 
  To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2003 12:02 PM
  Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Wanted to buy..Winslow dial indicator&holder, glass gauge


  Try not to feel snubbed.  Paul may be the only member of this group who has
  these items.

  __________________________________
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  The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
  http://search.yahoo.com

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I'm serious... this time.

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Fred:

Here is a list of minimal tools, and where to get the specialty items:

The J.J. Babbit glass gauge is OK.  No problem with that.

You need some feelers, a dial caliper, a thick sheet of glass (1/2�
thick) as a work surface, 400, 600, 800, and 1000 silicon carbide paper.

400 grit is for taking a lot of material off a table fast.

600 grit is for general table and facing work.

800 grit is for finer facing and tip work.

1000 grit is for putting a light polish on the baffle.

Feelers I use (Winslow kit):

.0015� (called �one and a half thousandths�) for facing length.*
(.04 mm)
.010�  (.25 mm)
.014�  (.35 mm)
.024�  (.60 mm)
.034�
.048� (or .050� as used in the old Eric Brand kit)
.063�  (1.6 mm)
.072�  (1.8 mm)
.094�  (2.4 mm)

*   In a discussion with John Winslow, he suggested I try also a .002�
(or .05mm) feeler  in place of the .0015�.  It gives almost exactly the
same reading, and is less likely to wrinkle or crease.

Ron Coelho showed me a way to measure tip opening with the dial
caliper�  take the glass gauge to a glass shop.  Ask them to drill a
hole in the butt end, about 1/8� from the end, and about 1/8� dia.  It
should be wide enough to stick the probe or depth gauge of the dial
caliper thru.  Or, to not risk damaging the glass gauge, you may ask the
glass shop to cut a similar size and shape piece of tempered glass and
drill a hole in that for this purpose.  You want the type of glass like
they use on store display counters, not windowpane glass.

Then, to measure tip opening, you place the glass on the table backwards
from how you used it to measure with the feelers.  You position the hole
over the tip.  You will have to move the glass around a little to find
the right spot.  Then place the end of the dial caliper against the
glass, with the depth indicator (the middle sliding part out on the end)
going thru the hole.  Move it around to where this touches right at the
very tip of the tip rail.  The caliper end has to be square on the
glass.  Now, take a reading, and simply subtract the thickness of the
glass, which you can measure also with your dial caliper.  Voila!

Some files from Micromark, as well as the dial caliper, same source.
You will also find a nice handheld torch, very small taps and dies, and
other hand tools, which are excellent for woodwind and brass instrument
repair.  www.micromark.com


#80973  Stainless Steel Dial Caliper  $32.95   (this is the one I own)

or

#82556  Digital Caliper  $39.95

#33108  Swiss Pattern Needle Files  $12.95

#81220  Needle File Handle  $10.45

The #33108 is a set of 12 files.  The one I use most is about �� wide,
flat on one side, slightly rounded on the other side, and tapers to a
point.  While shopping in MicroMark, also get a �file card�, which is a
type of wire brush for cleaning your files� grooves.  You may have one
already if you do instrument repair.

After you file the baffle, to establish the tip rail, and smooth it and
shape it as you wish, then wrap the file with 800 paper, and smooth out
the file marks.  Then, use the 1000 grit for a polish.

Also, a tool you can make yourself, there is none like it commercially
available; Santy Runyon showed me this�

Make this polishing tool from 3/8� dowel.  Grind a flat on one side,
about 1� long.  On this flat, glue a piece of 1/16� cork.  On this cork,
glue a piece of chamois.  Contact cement works fine for this purpose.
This is for a final polish of the baffle.

To polish the baffle, put a dab of Kit Scratch Out plastic polishing
compound� available at Auto Zone and other automotive stores.  Used for
plexiglass windshields, motorcycle helmet face shields, etc.  This is
perfect for mpce work.

Wet the chamois on the dowel, and with a dab of polish, polish the
baffle.

If the body of the mpce is a little dull, use a rag, and by hand polish
the outside with the Scratch Out.  Just a nice finish, and only takes a
few minutes for a total job.

For a final polish of the facing and table, turn your 800 or 1000 grit
paper over, paper backing side up.  Draw the table over the paper a few
times, and it will bring it to a nice shine.  And then a final, light
stroke on the facing itself, and the mouthpiece will have a nicely
polished facing and table.

Anyway, I will talk you thru all of this with the tape I will be making
soon.

Paul




Fred Gruenebaum wrote:

> I'm sure he would greatly appreciate your humor as he stands out there
> in the Texas heat measuring pressure. Fred
>
>      ----- Original Message -----
>      From: Keith Bradbury
>      To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
>      Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2003 12:02 PM
>      Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Wanted to buy..Winslow dial
>      indicator&holder, glass gauge
>       Try not to feel snubbed.  Paul may be the only member of
>      this group who has
>      these items.
>
>      __________________________________
>      Do you Yahoo!?
>      The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
>      http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
>      Got a Mouthpiece Work question?  Send it to
>      MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
>
>      Visit the site at
>      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MouthpieceWork to see the
>      Files, Photos and Bookmarks relating to Mouthpiece Work.
>
>      To see and modify your groups, go to
>      http://groups.yahoo.com/mygroups
>
>      Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
>      Service.
>
>
>                    Yahoo! Groups Sponsor


>
> Got a Mouthpiece Work question?  Send it to
> MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
>
> Visit the site at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MouthpieceWork to see
> the Files, Photos and Bookmarks relating to Mouthpiece Work.
>
> To see and modify your groups, go to http://groups.yahoo.com/mygroups
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

--
Link to Paul's articles from Home page of "Sax on the Web":

  http://www.saxontheweb.net

or directly to Paul's articles at:

  http://www.saxontheweb.net/Coats/

Listen to Paul's MP3's at:

                http://briefcase.yahoo.com/tenorman1952

and view photos.

As always, Paul's list is great.  I also use 320 and 220 grit sandpapers. 
320 for table cutting on brass and 220 for table cutting on stainless
steel.  Also, these files will not hold up well on SS.  I have some files
that are like diamond grit coated, but they are like using a 80 grit sand
paper.  They leave a lot of scratches to sand out.  For SS I mostly cover
my files with small pieces of 220 grit.  I'll just replace the files
periodically if they dull from SS work.

I usually stop with 600 grit, but I sometimes use 800 or higher to fine
adjust HR and plastic rails.  I've tried the plastic polishes but I prefer
to just finish off with steel wool.  It leaves a semi-gloss finish I like. 
Makes the piece look customized.  If a client wants a restoration, I'll use
the polishes.

__________________________________
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The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com

I need to amend the list of feelers below.  It should read:

.0015� (called �one and a half thousandths�) for facing length.*
(.04 mm)
.010�  (.25 mm)
.014�  (.35 mm)
.024�  (.60 mm)
.031�   (.80 mm)
.048� (1.2 mm) or .050� as used in the old Eric Brand kit
.063�  (1.6 mm)
.077�  (2.0 mm)
.094�  (2.4 mm)

Paul Coats wrote:

> Fred:
>
> Here is a list of minimal tools, and where to get the specialty items:
>
> The J.J. Babbit glass gauge is OK.  No problem with that.
>
> You need some feelers, a dial caliper, a thick sheet of glass (1/2�
> thick) as a work surface, 400, 600, 800, and 1000 silicon carbide
> paper.
>
> 400 grit is for taking a lot of material off a table fast.
>
> 600 grit is for general table and facing work.
>
> 800 grit is for finer facing and tip work.
>
> 1000 grit is for putting a light polish on the baffle.
>
> Feelers I use (Winslow kit):
>
> .0015� (called �one and a half thousandths�) for facing length.*
> (.04 mm)
> .010�  (.25 mm)
> .014�  (.35 mm)
> .024�  (.60 mm)
> .034�
> .048� (or .050� as used in the old Eric Brand kit)
> .063�  (1.6 mm)
> .072�  (1.8 mm)
> .094�  (2.4 mm)
>
> *   In a discussion with John Winslow, he suggested I try also a .002�
>
> (or .05mm) feeler  in place of the .0015�.  It gives almost exactly
> the
> same reading, and is less likely to wrinkle or crease.
>
> Ron Coelho showed me a way to measure tip opening with the dial
> caliper�  take the glass gauge to a glass shop.  Ask them to drill a
> hole in the butt end, about 1/8� from the end, and about 1/8� dia.  It
> should be wide enough to stick the probe or depth gauge of the dial
> caliper thru.  Or, to not risk damaging the glass gauge, you may ask
> the glass shop to cut a similar size and shape piece of tempered glass
> and drill a hole in that for this purpose.  You want the type of glass
> like they use on store display counters, not windowpane glass.
>
> Then, to measure tip opening, you place the glass on the table
> backwards from how you used it to measure with the feelers.  You
> position the hole over the tip.  You will have to move the glass
> around a little to find the right spot.  Then place the end of the
> dial caliper against the glass, with the depth indicator (the middle
> sliding part out on the end) going thru the hole.  Move it around to
> where this touches right at the very tip of the tip rail.  The caliper
> end has to be square on the glass.  Now, take a reading, and simply
> subtract the thickness of the glass, which you can measure also with
> your dial caliper.  Voila!
>
> Some files from Micromark, as well as the dial caliper, same source.
> You will also find a nice handheld torch, very small taps and dies,
> and other hand tools, which are excellent for woodwind and brass
> instrument repair.  www.micromark.com
>
>
> #80973  Stainless Steel Dial Caliper  $32.95   (this is the one I own)
>
> or
>
> #82556  Digital Caliper  $39.95
>
> #33108  Swiss Pattern Needle Files  $12.95
>
> #81220  Needle File Handle  $10.45
>
> The #33108 is a set of 12 files.  The one I use most is about �� wide,
> flat on one side, slightly rounded on the other side, and tapers to a
> point.  While shopping in MicroMark, also get a �file card�, which is
> a type of wire brush for cleaning your files� grooves.  You may have
> one already if you do instrument repair.
>
> After you file the baffle, to establish the tip rail, and smooth it
> and shape it as you wish, then wrap the file with 800 paper, and
> smooth out the file marks.  Then, use the 1000 grit for a polish.
>
> Also, a tool you can make yourself, there is none like it commercially
> available; Santy Runyon showed me this�
>
> Make this polishing tool from 3/8� dowel.  Grind a flat on one side,
> about 1� long.  On this flat, glue a piece of 1/16� cork.  On this
> cork, glue a piece of chamois.  Contact cement works fine for this
> purpose.  This is for a final polish of the baffle.
>
> To polish the baffle, put a dab of Kit Scratch Out plastic polishing
> compound� available at Auto Zone and other automotive stores.  Used
> for plexiglass windshields, motorcycle helmet face shields, etc.  This
> is perfect for mpce work.
>
> Wet the chamois on the dowel, and with a dab of polish, polish the
> baffle.
>
> If the body of the mpce is a little dull, use a rag, and by hand
> polish the outside with the Scratch Out.  Just a nice finish, and only
> takes a few minutes for a total job.
>
> For a final polish of the facing and table, turn your 800 or 1000 grit
> paper over, paper backing side up.  Draw the table over the paper a
> few times, and it will bring it to a nice shine.  And then a final,
> light stroke on the facing itself, and the mouthpiece will have a
> nicely polished facing and table.
>
> Anyway, I will talk you thru all of this with the tape I will be
> making soon.
>
> Paul
>
>
>
>
> Fred Gruenebaum wrote:
>
>> I'm sure he would greatly appreciate your humor as he stands out
>> there in the Texas heat measuring pressure. Fred
>>
>>      ----- Original Message -----
>>      From:Keith Bradbury
>>      To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
>>      Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2003 12:02 PM
>>      Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Wanted to buy..Winslow dial
>>      indicator&holder, glass gauge
>>       Try not to feel snubbed.  Paul may be the only member of
>>      this group who has
>>      these items.
>>
>>      __________________________________
>>      Do you Yahoo!?
>>      The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
>>      http://search.yahoo.com
>>
>>
>>      Got a Mouthpiece Work question?  Send it to
>>      MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>      Visit the site at
>>      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MouthpieceWork to see the
>>      Files, Photos and Bookmarks relating to Mouthpiece Work.
>>
>>      To see and modify your groups, go to
>>      http://groups.yahoo.com/mygroups
>>
>>      Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
>>      of Service.
>>
>> Got a Mouthpiece Work question?  Send it to
>> MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
>>
>> Visit the site at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MouthpieceWork to
>> see the Files, Photos and Bookmarks relating to Mouthpiece Work.
>>
>> To see and modify your groups, go to
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/mygroups
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
> --
> Link to Paul's articles from Home page of "Sax on the Web":
>
>   http://www.saxontheweb.net
>
> or directly to Paul's articles at:
>
>   http://www.saxontheweb.net/Coats/
>
> Listen to Paul's MP3's at:
>
>                http://briefcase.yahoo.com/tenorman1952
>
> and view photos.
>

--
Link to Paul's articles from Home page of "Sax on the Web":

  http://www.saxontheweb.net

or directly to Paul's articles at:

  http://www.saxontheweb.net/Coats/

Listen to Paul's MP3's at:

                http://briefcase.yahoo.com/tenorman1952

and view photos.