FROM: kwbradbury (Keith Bradbury)
SUBJECT: Concave Table Pro/Con
You can check if a table is flat or not by holding a straight edge 
across it and see if light gets under it.  Check it along the width 
and length of the table.  Some pieces are concave but provide a seal 
along the sides and end of the reed.  The butt end of the table will 
look real high is there is concavity at the base of the window.

The idea is that a concave table allows a cane reed to swell into the 
table.  This would be an advantage over a flat table if the swelling 
would otherwise press against the table and lift up the reed in a way 
that causes an air leak.  I suppose this could happen, but I have not 
observed this.  But I virtually do not play on cane anymore.  I think 
cane reeds held against a flat table just swell away from the table 
towards the ligature.  This makes the ligature tighter and indents 
the reed some at the contact points.

I did observe a concave table issue last night on a gig.  I had the 
guy next to me try out a piece I had just finish for another client 
to see if he liked it.  He slapped his reed on it and had a lot 
problems.  Air was leaking under the reed.  The mouthpiece failed the 
vacuum seal test.  I do not use the seal test, but my pieces usually 
pass it.  

It took me a while but I determined that his broken-in cane reed had 
deformed to the large concave table of his piece and would not seal 
against a flat table.  We'll try to repeat the trial with a new reed 
in a few days.  He also was curious if some of his other "bad" pieces 
were judged that way by him from the same phenomenum.  Ya think?  I 
suppose I could have held a straight edge aginst his reed to check 
it, but I did not do that.

So, I'm starting to re-think whether to put concave tables on my 
pieces or not.  I probably will not unless a client reports a similar 
problem when trying to use the same reed on several pieces.  Then I 
will offer concaving his table for him, or tell him to be aware of 
this and not to use the same reeds on both pieces.

With flat tables, you need to be carefull not to make a high spot in 
the middle of them.  This is very easy to do if you change the way 
you hold the piece against the sandpaper while working on the table.  
The concave table has the advantage of of avoiding even a slight high 
spot.  But you need to create the concavity.

Go check your pieces and reeds and let me know what you find out.


FROM: kymarto (Toby)
SUBJECT: Re: Concave Table Pro/Con
Hi Keith and all,

I went and had a look at all my mpcs re: table flatness. Another way to judge this that I like is to lightly moisten the table and hold it flat up underneath a (flat) piece of glass. It's then easy to see where the talbe makes contact and where it doesn't, but bear in mind that the thickness of the moisture layer can fill in slight irregularities.

One perfect way to judge concavity is to give the table a couple of swipes across some 2000 grit sandpaper pressed against a hard, flat surface and see where the shine comes up. By that light almost all my metal pieces had a slight concavity. But judging by the basic unevenness of the tables in question (Beechler alto, Berg Larsen tenor, Brilhart bari) my guess is that this is a bit of "insurance" for the mass makers to ensure that their sloppy finishing doesn't include a high spot in the center, though I don't really know for sure.

On the other hand the hard rubber pieces I have all had reasonably flat tables without any convexity (with the exception of an ancinet Berg Larsen sop, which has a slight concavity). These range from some cheapies like a Rico and a Lakey to my venerable and beloved MC Gregory. Probably much easier to machine the softer material reasonably well

The argument to hollow out a table so that the reed can swell into it doesn't make sense to me. It seems to me that if the fibers are going to swell they will swell equally, not just in the center in such a way as to lift the edges up and create problems. I've never had a problem with any of the pieces whose tables I have flattened.

As I say I think that creating a concavity in the table is just a brute-foce approach to making sure there is no high spot near the center, quicker and easier than finishing the table well.

My 2 cents,

Toby
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Keith Bradbury 
  To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 11:52 PM
  Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Concave Table Pro/Con


  You can check if a table is flat or not by holding a straight edge 
  across it and see if light gets under it.  Check it along the width 
  and length of the table.  Some pieces are concave but provide a seal 
  along the sides and end of the reed.  The butt end of the table will 
  look real high is there is concavity at the base of the window.

  The idea is that a concave table allows a cane reed to swell into the 
  table.  This would be an advantage over a flat table if the swelling 
  would otherwise press against the table and lift up the reed in a way 
  that causes an air leak.  I suppose this could happen, but I have not 
  observed this.  But I virtually do not play on cane anymore.  I think 
  cane reeds held against a flat table just swell away from the table 
  towards the ligature.  This makes the ligature tighter and indents 
  the reed some at the contact points.

  I did observe a concave table issue last night on a gig.  I had the 
  guy next to me try out a piece I had just finish for another client 
  to see if he liked it.  He slapped his reed on it and had a lot 
  problems.  Air was leaking under the reed.  The mouthpiece failed the 
  vacuum seal test.  I do not use the seal test, but my pieces usually 
  pass it.  

  It took me a while but I determined that his broken-in cane reed had 
  deformed to the large concave table of his piece and would not seal 
  against a flat table.  We'll try to repeat the trial with a new reed 
  in a few days.  He also was curious if some of his other "bad" pieces 
  were judged that way by him from the same phenomenum.  Ya think?  I 
  suppose I could have held a straight edge aginst his reed to check 
  it, but I did not do that.

  So, I'm starting to re-think whether to put concave tables on my 
  pieces or not.  I probably will not unless a client reports a similar 
  problem when trying to use the same reed on several pieces.  Then I 
  will offer concaving his table for him, or tell him to be aware of 
  this and not to use the same reeds on both pieces.

  With flat tables, you need to be carefull not to make a high spot in 
  the middle of them.  This is very easy to do if you change the way 
  you hold the piece against the sandpaper while working on the table.  
  The concave table has the advantage of of avoiding even a slight high 
  spot.  But you need to create the concavity.

  Go check your pieces and reeds and let me know what you find out.


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FROM: reidalf (Alf Reid [AST VT])
SUBJECT: Re: Concave Table Pro/Con
          Hi Guys
 
          Conncave or not ?
 
          I found that most reeds tend to lift at the sides , where the rails meet the table as soon as they absorb moisture.
          I does not make sense as I too would expect the reed to exert pressure against the ligature and deform
          at the end of the table.   This is experienced on many reeds , when one starts to play the reed feels great ,
          5 minutes later it feels "dead" with lots of resistance , the low notes needs brute force to attack. 
          If  you look at the setup you can see light shining in between MPC and reed , right up to the ligature.
 
          For many people this is the root cause of  the high pitched whistle (squeek) , which bothers them. 
          Since the correct strenght of reed do not make a good seal it feels (plays) like a reed 1 or 2 numbers higher,
          causing them to use lighter reeds .  Ever thought why metal MPC are more prone to squeeking ?   My theory
          is that rubber MPC tables flexes a little whith ligature/ reed pressure , causing a better seal. Rubber
          MPC normally have wide rails where the rails meet the table , this makes them less sensitive to reeds
          lifting their sides.  
 
           I use all the mentioned methods to try and get a flat table .... however I came to the conclusion it is almost impossible
           to get a perfectly flat table right up to all sides , using sandpaper.  Some people might think a table is flat but the
           next guy might disagree totally.  How straight is your straight edge ? how flat is my piece of glass ?
           This is the reason why I first create a slightly concave table, then sand down and stop before all the
           concavity is gone, ESPECIALLY ON METAL MOUTHPIECES.
           
            If  I look at photos of the Guardala laser trimmed MPC , I can believe the tables might be flat, the edges looks
            razor sharp.    
 
            Keep up the flat tables, I will practise more. 

-----Original Message-----
From: Toby [mailto:kymarto@...]
Sent: 08 March 2003 08:20
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Concave Table Pro/Con


 
Hi Keith and all,
 
I went and had a look at all my mpcs re: table flatness. Another way to judge this that I like is to lightly moisten the table and hold it flat up underneath a (flat) piece of glass. It's then easy to see where the talbe makes contact and where it doesn't, but bear in mind that the thickness of the moisture layer can fill in slight irregularities.
 
One perfect way to judge concavity is to give the table a couple of swipes across some 2000 grit sandpaper pressed against a hard, flat surface and see where the shine comes up. By that light almost all my metal pieces had a slight concavity. But judging by the basic unevenness of the tables in question (Beechler alto, Berg Larsen tenor, Brilhart bari) my guess is that this is a bit of "insurance" for the mass makers to ensure that their sloppy finishing doesn't include a high spot in the center, though I don't really know for sure.
 
On the other hand the hard rubber pieces I have all had reasonably flat tables without any convexity (with the exception of an ancinet Berg Larsen sop, which has a slight concavity). These range from some cheapies like a Rico and a Lakey to my venerable and beloved MC Gregory. Probably much easier to machine the softer material reasonably well
 
The argument to hollow out a table so that the reed can swell into it doesn't make sense to me. It seems to me that if the fibers are going to swell they will swell equally, not just in the center in such a way as to lift the edges up and create problems. I've never had a problem with any of the pieces whose tables I have flattened.
 
As I say I think that creating a concavity in the table is just a brute-foce approach to making sure there is no high spot near the center, quicker and easier than finishing the table well.
 
My 2 cents,
 
Toby

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Keith  <mailto:kwbradbury@...> Bradbury 
To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 11:52 PM
Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Concave Table Pro/Con

You can check if a table is flat or not by holding a straight edge 
across it and see if light gets under it.  Check it along the width 
and length of the table.  Some pieces are concave but provide a seal 
along the sides and end of the reed.  The butt end of the table will 
look real high is there is concavity at the base of the window.

The idea is that a concave table allows a cane reed to swell into the 
table.  This would be an advantage over a flat table if the swelling 
would otherwise press against the table and lift up the reed in a way 
that causes an air leak.  I suppose this could happen, but I have not 
observed this.  But I virtually do not play on cane anymore.  I think 
cane reeds held against a flat table just swell away from the table 
towards the ligature.  This makes the ligature tighter and indents 
the reed some at the contact points.

I did observe a concave table issue last night on a gig.  I had the 
guy next to me try out a piece I had just finish for another client 
to see if he liked it.  He slapped his reed on it and had a lot 
problems.  Air was leaking under the reed.  The mouthpiece failed the 
vacuum seal test.  I do not use the seal test, but my pieces usually 
pass it.  

It took me a while but I determined that his broken-in cane reed had 
deformed to the large concave table of his piece and would not seal 
against a flat table.  We'll try to repeat the trial with a new reed 
in a few days.  He also was curious if some of his other "bad" pieces 
were judged that way by him from the same phenomenum.  Ya think?  I 
suppose I could have held a straight edge aginst his reed to check 
it, but I did not do that.

So, I'm starting to re-think whether to put concave tables on my 
pieces or not.  I probably will not unless a client reports a similar 
problem when trying to use the same reed on several pieces.  Then I 
will offer concaving his table for him, or tell him to be aware of 
this and not to use the same reeds on both pieces.

With flat tables, you need to be carefull not to make a high spot in 
the middle of them.  This is very easy to do if you change the way 
you hold the piece against the sandpaper while working on the table.  
The concave table has the advantage of of avoiding even a slight high 
spot.  But you need to create the concavity.

Go check your pieces and reeds and let me know what you find out.



Got a Mouthpiece Work question?  Send it to MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com

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______________________________________________

"This information is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed and 
may contain private, confidential, proprietary and/or privileged material and may be subject
to confidentiality agreements.

Any review, retransmission, dissemination, or any other use of or taking of any action in
reliance upon this information, by persons or entities other than the intended recipient,
is prohibited. 

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FROM: kymarto (Toby)
SUBJECT: Re: Concave Table Pro/Con
Just one quick note--I had two metal mpcs which were very prone to squeaks and chirps. The Beechler was so bad I had given up on ever playing it, thought I liked the brightness for some gigs. I finally figured I had nothing to lose and started to try refacing it. Guess what I found--the rails were totally uneven, not to mention the fact that the table was all over the place. First I flattened the table. Yes pretty nearly flat--you could look at the reflection and it was a flat mirror (except for a tiny bit of rounding at the butt). Still squeaked like mad. Those rails. I spend a nasty amount of time grinding the sucker down so that they were equal. The squeaks disappeared. It is now a very well-behaved piece. I could loosen my embouchure, bite up much higher and pump air in without the awful feeling that I was on the edge--ready to squeal any second.

Emboldened by that I got to work on a Berg Larsen stainless metal piece. Although this one was not as bad as the Beechler I wasn't totally comfortaable with it--I felt that if I really let go it might chirp on me. Same story--I managed to get it really stable by carefully controlling the side and tip rails. 

My theory is that it's just too damn much trouble for most mass makers to adequately finish metal pieces. Hard rubber ones are a lot easier to work with. Judy Beechler wrote me and just about said as much, going on about how they had new machines to do finishing which did a much better job than before.

It makes sense: squeaks are caused by the reed vibrating back and forth across the median axis. Uneven rails are going to get that kind of motion started. If the side and tip rails are even the reed will open and close as a unit, with less tendency to start twisting.

Anyway that's my experience.

Toby
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Alf Reid [AST VT] 
  To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 3:44 PM
  Subject: RE: [MouthpieceWork] Concave Table Pro/Con


            Hi Guys

            Conncave or not ?

            I found that most reeds tend to lift at the sides , where the rails meet the table as soon as they absorb moisture.
            I does not make sense as I too would expect the reed to exert pressure against the ligature and deform
            at the end of the table.   This is experienced on many reeds , when one starts to play the reed feels great ,
            5 minutes later it feels "dead" with lots of resistance , the low notes needs brute force to attack. 
            If  you look at the setup you can see light shining in between MPC and reed , right up to the ligature.

            For many people this is the root cause of  the high pitched whistle (squeek) , which bothers them. 
            Since the correct strenght of reed do not make a good seal it feels (plays) like a reed 1 or 2 numbers higher,
            causing them to use lighter reeds .  Ever thought why metal MPC are more prone to squeeking ?   My theory
            is that rubber MPC tables flexes a little whith ligature/ reed pressure , causing a better seal. Rubber
            MPC normally have wide rails where the rails meet the table , this makes them less sensitive to reeds
            lifting their sides.  

             I use all the mentioned methods to try and get a flat table .... however I came to the conclusion it is almost impossible
             to get a perfectly flat table right up to all sides , using sandpaper.  Some people might think a table is flat but the
             next guy might disagree totally.  How straight is your straight edge ? how flat is my piece of glass ?
             This is the reason why I first create a slightly concave table, then sand down and stop before all the
             concavity is gone, ESPECIALLY ON METAL MOUTHPIECES.
             
              If  I look at photos of the Guardala laser trimmed MPC , I can believe the tables might be flat, the edges looks
              razor sharp.    

              Keep up the flat tables, I will practise more. 
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Toby [mailto:kymarto@...]
    Sent: 08 March 2003 08:20
    To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com
    Subject: Re: [MouthpieceWork] Concave Table Pro/Con



    Hi Keith and all,

    I went and had a look at all my mpcs re: table flatness. Another way to judge this that I like is to lightly moisten the table and hold it flat up underneath a (flat) piece of glass. It's then easy to see where the talbe makes contact and where it doesn't, but bear in mind that the thickness of the moisture layer can fill in slight irregularities.

    One perfect way to judge concavity is to give the table a couple of swipes across some 2000 grit sandpaper pressed against a hard, flat surface and see where the shine comes up. By that light almost all my metal pieces had a slight concavity. But judging by the basic unevenness of the tables in question (Beechler alto, Berg Larsen tenor, Brilhart bari) my guess is that this is a bit of "insurance" for the mass makers to ensure that their sloppy finishing doesn't include a high spot in the center, though I don't really know for sure.

    On the other hand the hard rubber pieces I have all had reasonably flat tables without any convexity (with the exception of an ancinet Berg Larsen sop, which has a slight concavity). These range from some cheapies like a Rico and a Lakey to my venerable and beloved MC Gregory. Probably much easier to machine the softer material reasonably well

    The argument to hollow out a table so that the reed can swell into it doesn't make sense to me. It seems to me that if the fibers are going to swell they will swell equally, not just in the center in such a way as to lift the edges up and create problems. I've never had a problem with any of the pieces whose tables I have flattened.

    As I say I think that creating a concavity in the table is just a brute-foce approach to making sure there is no high spot near the center, quicker and easier than finishing the table well.

    My 2 cents,

    Toby
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: Keith Bradbury 
      To: MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com 
      Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 11:52 PM
      Subject: [MouthpieceWork] Concave Table Pro/Con


      You can check if a table is flat or not by holding a straight edge 
      across it and see if light gets under it.  Check it along the width 
      and length of the table.  Some pieces are concave but provide a seal 
      along the sides and end of the reed.  The butt end of the table will 
      look real high is there is concavity at the base of the window.

      The idea is that a concave table allows a cane reed to swell into the 
      table.  This would be an advantage over a flat table if the swelling 
      would otherwise press against the table and lift up the reed in a way 
      that causes an air leak.  I suppose this could happen, but I have not 
      observed this.  But I virtually do not play on cane anymore.  I think 
      cane reeds held against a flat table just swell away from the table 
      towards the ligature.  This makes the ligature tighter and indents 
      the reed some at the contact points.

      I did observe a concave table issue last night on a gig.  I had the 
      guy next to me try out a piece I had just finish for another client 
      to see if he liked it.  He slapped his reed on it and had a lot 
      problems.  Air was leaking under the reed.  The mouthpiece failed the 
      vacuum seal test.  I do not use the seal test, but my pieces usually 
      pass it.  

      It took me a while but I determined that his broken-in cane reed had 
      deformed to the large concave table of his piece and would not seal 
      against a flat table.  We'll try to repeat the trial with a new reed 
      in a few days.  He also was curious if some of his other "bad" pieces 
      were judged that way by him from the same phenomenum.  Ya think?  I 
      suppose I could have held a straight edge aginst his reed to check 
      it, but I did not do that.

      So, I'm starting to re-think whether to put concave tables on my 
      pieces or not.  I probably will not unless a client reports a similar 
      problem when trying to use the same reed on several pieces.  Then I 
      will offer concaving his table for him, or tell him to be aware of 
      this and not to use the same reeds on both pieces.

      With flat tables, you need to be carefull not to make a high spot in 
      the middle of them.  This is very easy to do if you change the way 
      you hold the piece against the sandpaper while working on the table.  
      The concave table has the advantage of of avoiding even a slight high 
      spot.  But you need to create the concavity.

      Go check your pieces and reeds and let me know what you find out.



      Got a Mouthpiece Work question?  Send it to MouthpieceWork@yahoogroups.com

      Visit the site at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MouthpieceWork to see the Files, Photos and Bookmarks relating to Mouthpiece Work.

      To see and modify your groups, go to http://groups.yahoo.com/mygroups 

      Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. 



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    To see and modify your groups, go to http://groups.yahoo.com/mygroups 

    Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. 

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  Any review, retransmission, dissemination, or any other use of or taking of any action in
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  is prohibited. 

  If you received this in error, please contact the sender and delete the material from all 
  storage media.

  The company is neither liable for proper, complete transmission of the information contained
  in this communication, any delay in its receipt or that the mail is virus-free"

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